ThatGuyThere

I had one as my 2nd car, and fitted the obligatory 17" wheels. No lowering so it looked like a rollerskate

I too had nothing to compare it to, so loved the thing! On reflection, it was probably slower than the 1989 1.0 Polo it replaced. Never has a 1.2 engine had less power!

If you've got nothing nice to say...

VSC supposedly is much improved in MY2017 twins. Allowing higher slip angle prior engaging, and intervening in less abrupt manner then in older zenki twins.
In my eyes those old bmws have also another pro vs twins, if drifting is considered - wider max steering angle. When driving on ice tracks i found smaller steering angle (probably due wide boxer engine) during countersteer when drifting limiting sometimes.

Adam, 
so at idle there is a vacuum to the Bypass valve so it will be held open.
Free revving the car @ idle will not make any boost so the bypass valve will again be held open.
The valve works so when when the car is running at high vacuum i.e small throttle openings it bypasses the charged air back into the the intake so the car will cruise without any boost.
As I said we would just bypass the valve to check it is working properly , I am sure Jay on here had trouble with his bypass valve on the HKS install which he swapped out
 
 

Presume we fitted the kit for the previous owner. You can PM me the previous owner if needed.

Its more the new MY17 car seems to have a lot of updates and refinements, also silly reason, but i despise the red interior stitching and they got rid of it on the 2017 model! But i may have to over look that factor!

After messing about taking bolts out, measuring, putting them back, I have a list of sizes to dress up the engine bay. In case anyone else is looking for the info:
 
Bolt A - Wings & Bumper
23x M6 countersunk bolts, 15mm length
23x M6 countersunk washers, 19mm o/d
 
Bolt B - Slam Panel
2x M8 countersunk bolts, 20mm length
2x M8 countersunk washers, 25mm o/d
 
Bolt C - Airbox and Noise Maker
2x M6 countersunk bolts, 35mm length
2x M6 countersunk washers, 19mm o/d
 
Bolt D - Bonnet & ABS Unit
6x M8 flanged hex, 20mm
4x M8 flat washers
 
That will give you most of the OEM bolts around edges of the engine bay, plus the bonnet. I've not changed the ones on the pulley covers, or throttle body as I'm replacing these separately with something aftermarket, so they're not included in this list. Neither are the ones for the strut braces or the suspension, they're in good nick on my BRZ. I may do some more in future, I'll add any further specs as I find out.
 
For reference to off the shelf kits, you can put this lot together for about £85 from pro-bolt. Though this list is not quite as long as some aftermarket kits.
 
Some Of The Bolt Locations





 
This is all for info only, don't replace strong steel fittings with soft ally or cheapo items, stay safe  

lol You are right. Just outside my drive!

A few extra horses will make absolutely no difference to your engine's longevity. Don't worry about it at all.

The exhaust is too loud, it's not unbearable but when just pulling away from lights (and I do that a lot in London ) 1st and 2nd gear it's loud for me, I guess I will just live with it. Ideally I want an exhaust to make a noise at high revs.  Sometimes I just want to be discreet and avoid attention   
Never mind, only live once
Need to think about some security on the car now, trackers, dash cams etc. 
 
 

But you keep empahsising the rules Lauren. If you just turn up and get put in pro class but don't have a fitted fire extinguisher and a race suit then the rules say you can't run.
I'm not going to spend the entry and turn up just to be told I can't run.
It's not a matter of grasping the rules - you don't seem to grasp that some people just want to come and have a go for fun but that your constant 'you can't run because you have the wrong tyres' puts people off.

I'm sorry Lauren but I too don't see any banter at all when you are constantly saying (and not just in this post) that people can't compete if you don't have the right tyres, we discussed this at Blyton and I strongly believe you are putting people off by saying that people can't compete without the right tyres etc. as you are making them think they can't take part at all, this shouldn't be the way to advertise the TSS. It should be a simple come along and see what it's all about first, then if they want to really compete, then give them the tyre spiel like we did with Tim who just rocked up on semi's, but since he enjoyed his first round, went and got some listed tyres to continue the season with.

 

 
Sent from my EDI-AL10 using Tapatalk

 

 
 
 

Obviously I can only speak for myself but it doesn't read like 'banter' to be honest. It makes it sound like the TSS is no fun and is quite off putting imho.

Sorry for jumping on this so late, not been on for a long while but looking forward to seeing what you get dude!
Going to go off topic slightly but for all those wanting to give TSS a try please do, don't take what Lauren said too seriously, just because your tyres might not be on the list, does not mean you can't take part in the TSS, it just means you might not be competing directly against Lauren and the others in N1....but who cares, if you've not got much experience, I still think the TSS is a great place to gain experience and personal development.  Don't worry about what others are doing, just see what you can do and if you can improve.  Get a feel of track driving without the worry of others i.e. on proper trackdays.  Yes they can be more value for money but again as you can get more track time but you could be surrounded by a lot more experienced drivers going a million miles per hour which might put you off from trying so I strongly suggest giving TSS a go.  Then if you get into it and you actually want to start competing then you can consider your tyre choices and other supporting mods to help compete with, but until then, please don't be shy and do join in!

To be fair it's a fairly expensive way to find out you're crap. Speaking from experience.

Now sold

M135i is rear wheel drive, but that's where the similarities end. It's not a sports car - it's a refined 5 seater, with the weight and comfort that brings. As you say, it looks like every other BMW.
I drove several e92 M3's - seemed very generic at lower revs, but people do say they grow on you. I'd have had one over the M135i, but the prices are ridiculous at the moment - however zero depreciation - my friend had one for £25k 3 years ago that BMW are selling today for £27k. I was looking at 2 year old M135i's for £18k, or a 10 year old M3 for the same price!
TTRS felt wonderfully fast, but a bit woollen and again, it's not really a sports car.
The only thing that came close, was a Cayman S - if you get the 987 2nd generation (£23k+) then the engine woes were fixed, and it's a wonderful car to drive, and unlikely to cost too much more to run than a performance BMW. Only reason I didn't get one was because at 6'4 I'm JUST too tall to be comfortable.

The GT86 is rare, it's light, the driving position is ace, every journey is an event. Kids love it, everyone else on the road seems to hate you (I never get let out of junctions and anything remotely sporty drives up my arse until I floor it).
Having said that, I only bought one over the M135i because someone else had spent the £10k on a supercharger and additional mods.

Drive them all. Only way to tell.

Hi,

I discovered the alarm control panel in the glovebox today, and the post on here describing how to turn on anti-hijack doors. This inspired me to find more codes. It turns out the alarm is a Sigma S32, shared with the 2014 impreza. Codes to play with (AT YOUR OWN RISK) are below. I haven't tried all of these (yet!):

PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU KNOW YOUR PIN BEFORE YOU TRY THE ANTI KEY THEFT CODE - YOU NEED THE PIN TO START THE CAR!

(Hope that was clear! my mate's scooby was dead for 2 days until he got hold of the previous owner and his PIN!)


Sources:
http://www.perth-wrx.com/vb/mechanicals/58018-2014-wrx-technical-issues-3.html
http://www.scoobynet.com/security-16/953357-sigma-s32-codes.html
The S32 Installation guide (i bought a copy!)
 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Standard user controls 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Ignition Must be ON, not on Accessory power
 
0 - Last Trigger Isolation --> Allows the alarm to ignore the last sensor that caused the alarm to sound.  Effectively used to disable faulty sensor but still turn the alarm on
1 - Turns off the alarm arming tone for the next time used (if tones are set)
2 - Turns off the ultrasonic sensors for next time used
3 - Turns off the sensor prewarning feature for next time used
4 - Turns off the single and dual trigger sensors  for next time used
5 - Turns off the ultrasonic, single and dual trigger sensors for next time used
6 - combination of 4 and 5
7 - switches safety lock on/off (so car locks as you turn on ignition)
8 - display battery voltage
9 - nothing
* - toggles volume of prewarn beep
 
To make the passenger door unlock at the same time as the driver door:
Ensure ignition is off, driver door left open. Hold the lock and unlock buttons together for about 5 seconds (it will issue a beep)
 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Super secret squirrel programming codes
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
To use : Ignition must be off

Reset to default settings:
*17856*880#

Auto arm with door locking 60 seconds after the last door has been closed, Note make sure keys arn't in the vehicle:

*17856 wait for the beep *004*1# turns it on. everytime a door is opened it will beep twice to inform you that its active
 
Auto arm without door locking 60 seconds after the last door has been closed:

*17856 wait for the beep *003*1# turns it on. everytime a door is opened it will beep twice to inform you that its active
  door unlock/locking beeps:
*17856 wait for the beep *000*1# turns the beep on when locking and unlocking although admittedly not very loud
 
*17856 *002 * 0 or * 1 then #
Turns on safety locking through the programming code (similar to pressing 7 in the user options) but with more options on lock timings and pulse
 
*17856 *005 * 0 or * 1 then #
Auto-Rearm & Relock (if the alarm is turned off but no doors are opened etc)
*17856 *007 * 0 or * 1 then #
Accessory Wire 4 Function
Can be used for boot release upon button hold or can be configured to allow Remote Engine Start/Stop devices (such as turbo timers i guess).  If you need more info please ask

*17856 *008 * 0 or * 1 then #
Accessory Wire 3 (Total Closure) Operation - on Arm
*0 = “Timed”. A passive, timed negative output is provided on Acc. Wire 3, every time the system is armed, to operate Total Closure (Total Closure Time *121 must be adjusted from 0 to select the output period if required). When held on arming, TX button 1 still operates Panic.
*1 = “Hold Down”. A negative output is provided on Acc. Wire 3 only whilst TX button 1 remains held on arming after 3 seconds, up to a maximum of 26seconds
(Total Close Time *121 will not affect the output time) When *1 selected, panic can only be operated from optional 2 button TX
NB: Only S30 & 34 models.
* 0 (“Timed” & Panic)

*17856 *009 * 0 or * 1 then #
Extend Standard CDL Lock Pulse - On/Off (only when TX button 1 held)
Can be used with the above or as an alternative total closure option, where the vehicle already has a total closure circuit that can be operated from the standard CDL lock connections. When switched on, the Std CDL Lock pulse is extended (second pulse in the case of double pulse settings) as long as the TX button remains pressed, up to a maximum of 26seconds.
When *1 selected, panic can only be operated from optional 2 button TX
* 0 (off)

*17856 *010 * 0 or * 1 then #
Arm/Disarm Indicator Flash - On/Off
For both radio key and direct switched systems
* 1 (on)

*17856 *011 * 0 or * 1 then #
Accessory Wire 8 Function -
*0 = Internal Panic Circuit. Configures system to activate Panic Mode whilst an earth input is detected on this wire.
*1 = Closed Loop Protection. Configures system to trigger when the circuit
becomes open when armed.
NB: Only S1, 4, 30, 32 & 34 models
* 0 (Internal Panic)

*17856 *012 * 0 or * 1 then #
Positive Door Switch Input or Internal Panic Circuit
*0 = Internal Panic Circuit. Configures system to activate Panic Mode whilst a
12v input is detected on this wire.
*1 = Positive Door Switch. Configures system to trigger when the circuit becomes
12v when armed.
NB: Only S12, 30, 32 & 34 models
* 1( “+” Switch)

*17856 *013 * 0 or * 1 then #
Key Theft Protection - On/Off
NB: Only S4, 30, 32 & 34 models
* 0 (off)

*17856 *014 * 0 or * 1 then #
Accessory Wire 6 (Headlamp Illumination) Operation -
*0 = Arm Only. Configures the timed output to occur only when the system is “actively” Armed (illumination does not occur when Auto-Arming or Auto-
Rearming).
*1 = Arm & Disarm. Configures the timed output to occur when the system is both “actively” Armed & Disarmed (illumination does not occur when Auto-Arming or Auto-Rearming).
NB: Only S30, 32 & 34 models
* 0 (Arm Only)

*17856 *015 * 0 or * 1 then #
Accessory Wire 1 Function -
*0 = Alarm Armed Output. Negative output provided whilst the security system remains armed.
*1 = Total Closure Output. Negative output on arming, this can be “timed” or on “hold down” adjustable using *008 and *121. Wire 1 then behaves and can be adjusted as Wire 3 would be if fitted.
NB: Only S4 models
*0 (Armed Output)

*17856 *016 * 0 or * 1 then #
Accessory Wire 2 Function -
*0 = Aux Siren/Pager Output. Negative output provided whilst the security system is triggering.
*1 = Total Open/Boot Release Output. Negative output on disarming, this can be “timed” or on “hold down” adjustable using *006 and *122. . Wire 2 then behaves and can be adjusted as Wire 4 would be if fitted.
NB: Only S4 models
 
 
 
 
 
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Other stuff I have if needed
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
 
Sensitivity Adjustment Timings for locks and lock pulses (unlikely you will need this!) Diagnostic codes to hunt for reasons why your alarm is having issues Adding keys to the system Installation and wiring info

If you do you're welcome to a ride in mine which is probably one of the firmest around to see how it compares 👍

I might be able to make it, but it'll be a last-minute decision because I have a lot on at the moment.

Not sure. I'm thinking either the roads local to me are particularly bad, something's not right with the car - be it bushes links or something else I don't understand, or these particular coilovers - but they aren't cheap, and other people sing their praises.

It's a work in progress - just had a weekend in the Lake District, and driving on the smooth roads was great, but on the little back roads here in Yorkshire I'm having to avoid a lot of my usual traffic-light-dodging routes because it's impossible to make smooth progress. It's embarrassingly bad.

link #1 link#2
From some subaru brakers yard 16" Subaru Impreza (2004) space saver (without cut outs, does not foul callipers) or 17", with many round holes. 
If it will fit GT86 calipers pics: #1 , #2
=============
Extras to mount it:
Y51931-0H010 (N/STK CARRIER, S/WHEEL) - £4.71 + VAT
Y64777-0D060 (N/STK CUSHION, SPARE) - 13.71 + VAT

I spent a small fortune modding my 350Z and, as expected, saw none of it back when I came to sell. So this time I'm not modding the BRZ and it's staying OEM, so really there's very little point in this thread as I'm leaving it alone. Definitely. No mods.
 
This is how she looked after collection and a wash - stunning - if I do say so myself.

 
Despite the modification ban, I am allowed to do maintenance and preventative maintenance. Like all addictions, it starts with a gateway item - in this case a simple cabin filter. Original was absolutely minging.

 
Then the (I think original) wipers were looking quite smeary, so in with the Bosch. I did dabble in PIAA last time but I didn't rate their water clearing as much as the Aeros.

 
After seeing all the posts about battery capacity leaving people stranded, I plumped for another preemptive strike - more Bosch.

 
With a complete absence of Bluetooth it made the BRZ impractical as a work/commuter vehicle, so I decided to deal with that problem and fit a Sony headunit. I've since improved the surround finisher trim.

 
Naturally it made good sense to fit a reverse camera at the same time, another preventive job this one. Preventing bodywork repair.

 
Now there is not much point in being able to see out the back and not see what's up front, so I popped in a Mobius dashcam - unbeatable piece of kit at the pricepoint.

 
The screw covers in the registration plates were unsightly and the plates were frankly awful (overlapping text, dealer advert etc) so they were recycled and new ones fitted with double sided.

I also moved the rear one down a touch, as I wasn't happy with the use of negative space in the rear plate recess  and it stopped it touching the reverse camera.
 
Subaru "forgot" to include an armrest to cover the expanse of hard plastic in the centre console, so I sorted out another bit of maintenance there.

Had to strap on the Captain Brave pants before drilling INSIDE the car, but manage to retain my dignity in the most part. You might have also noticed I popped in a lightning adapter for the headunit. I did initially retain the OEM USB/AUX port but I would have had to mount my phone on the dash or have unsightly cables knocking about.
 
Another bit of forgetfulness from Subaru saw me add a Beat Sonic shark fin, as this is stock on a MY2017, it's technically more maintenance.

 
This one was very nearly just a mod, but some of the OEM exhaust had some light surface rust, so yet more maintenance.

Thanks to bildingo for the Ark GRiP - it sounds brilliant at idle and at cruise, with a nice beefiness when you get on the loud peddle. On top of that it looks superb. Slash tips are JDM yo, but I think I prefer rolled. I genuinely won't be playing around with HFCs, de-cats or the rest of the exhaust as I can't be doing with the MOT hassle and CELs I've had to deal with in the past.
 
For reasons unknown Subaru don't have a cargo net offering for the boot, which given the way the car is meant to be driven, is a huge oversight. More maintenance required here. Picked up these self tapping fixings from fleabay.

And recycled the cargo net from my 350z

I have four spare fixings left over (enough for one more 4-point cargo net). If anyone wants them, please get in touch. Yours for free.
 
Last but not least, I allowed myself one genuine mod. A club sticker.

Local seagulls felt this relenting on my zero mods policy should be met with a dirty protest.
 
I had a go at the plastic scuttle under the windscreen, which is already looking tired even with our 4 weeks of sun a year.

 
Got a sample pot of this from a Waxybox a while back, decide to splash out on a full bottle. 

 
Very easy to apply and buff, but I won't know if it's really any good until it's lasted 6 months or so. Definitely looks the part for now.

 
Now the bit of bad news. The dealer promised a service before I collected the car and after a week or so of nagging I got a copy of the invoice for work done (mainly for my service history). Disappointingly, the wrong grade of oil had been used and cheapo filters all round. So I splashed out on some Millers Nanodrive (I even got the right viscosity), a K&N oil filter and a Cosworth panel filter. She's now breathing better.
Worryingly, the best part of 10 litres of the olive oil the previous servicer used came out. I believe the correct capacity with an oil filter is 5.4L?

I had checked the dipstick at collection but it was only showing a splash over full! Needless to say I'm glad the wrong grade was used, as that convinced me to drop it out, so it was only over full for a short while. Slack work though from "professionals", the sump plug and oil filter were only touch tight as well - GRRRRR.
 
That's me for now, only maintenance and preventative maintenance from here on in. With that in mind, I've got a paint correction booked with a local detailer in a couple of weeks. I need to know what glaze the dealer valet used because it did an incredible job of hiding a truck load of swirls and random deep scratches. Soon to be perfect though 
 
 
 
 
 

Lies! I watched their YouTube video and it was to stop the doors wobblig about. in the video it said that when the doors jiggle it ruins the balance of the car as it's a certain amount of weight moving in two directions. And it showed the car doing a manoeuvre with and without and it was about 20% more clean. My Japanese is a little iffy but that was the gist I got. I definitely understood it was all horseshit though 

Ok last bit for March. I have spent way to much in March. 


Hopefully get it fitted soon.