Tom B

Keith said most of what I was in the middle of writing, but just a few more points to add.
Firstly, while accidents are rare, they happen, and in some scenarios it can be completely out of your control. Having accepted the fact that you could NOT afford to pay for repairs or replacement, I would perhaps suggest that you don't try and rush into things, just because you want to. There are plenty of ways you can get experience on track without risking your own car. So that would be my main advice, to maybe look for tuition or track days with rental cars, especially if you can find somewhere with an Elise, MX5 or GT86, to help you learn how to drive a RWD car.
Of course, you could just go ahead and take the risk like many others, and that's completely your decision. If you were to gain your experience at an event with the club, I would suggest asking someone with a bit more experience (Lauren, Ade, Kev or someone) to take you for a passenger lap, and maybe even join you in your car for a few laps. This isn't a replacement for tuition, although I would assume certainly Lauren could do a great job at that, but having someone who is on your level and helping you out of the goodness of their heart can be great. I did this at the Nurburgring. Asked a local Porsche driver for a passenger lap, then asked him to join me for my first 2 laps. By 5 laps of experience I ran a sub 10 minute BTG time in traffic.
Main point to take away, is as Keith said. Work within your own boundaries. Don't try and impress people, just do it to have fun and if you manage to improve, great.

From all the trackdays that I've done so far, it's pretty much the same bunch of tutors so shouldn't really matter which track or which tutor, just find a good track with plenty of run off.  The tutors are pretty good, they can tailor it for being a complete novice (so they can tell you what to look out for, driving etiquette, basic techniques to help you on any track etc.) to more experience drivers who want to learn that particular circuit more (i.e. braking points, racing lines etc.).
The briefings in the mornings will also give new comers plenty of info to take in i.e. what the coloured flags mean, which areas are safe to over take etc.  If anything, it's all about the mind set in my opinion, as long as you're out there having a bit of fun and not trying to prove anything and more importantly trying to race anyone else (or even yourself by timing) then you should be good.  Keep your eyes on your mirrors/surroundings and if you see a car quickly approaching, just simply pull to one side, indicate and DO let off the gas so they can get past quickly without any problems (lots of people don't and this prolongs the overtaking process which can be dangerous when you run out of track).  I tend to do this even if they're slowly approaching you, once they're near and its convenient, I tend to let everyone pass, I'd rather not hold people up causing them to try and force an overtake (and course an accident), it only takes a moment and you then don't have to worry about anything else besides you driving again.
If you're passing, make sure you only pass on the straights and it's nice to give them a way or signal to say thanks but only if its convenient.  The issues usually come down to others not following this rule and holding others up, especially those with more power in the straights than you but then slow you right down in the corners.  Rather than getting livid (which to be honest I do), just calm down, ease off and then push on again, it's always more fun to play chase than to be in the way.
The rest is pretty much just down to driving within your own limits, don't push yourself too hard etc. (again that was my mistake recently at Croft, but that was for the TSS and I was gunning for a fast time, that's when most accidents can happen).
Besides helmets, make sure you're wearing long sleeves and full length trousers.  When you park up, try not to use the handbrake, just leave it in gear and turn the car off (pop our bonnet if it's particularly hot).  Make sure the car is empty of any loose bits.  Make sure your tow hook is in.  And that's about it that I can think off.
It's really not that scary of an experience, its a lot of fun but if you need put your mind at easy, I would consider trackday insurance if you can.  Hopefully see you out there again mate!

Different holes. The bootlid will be swappable though.

Any ideas if the new rear spoiler will fit the  "old" model? I like it!

@un1eash My was a 1.6 DIG-T 190bhp but after all the tweaks and mods it put out about 236 with EcuTek. I also had Tein Coilovers + Cusco bars and 4-pot fronts and 2-pot rear Akebono brakes from a 370z, its fair to say I never felt like I didn't have enough stopping power after that. I've recently put the stock brakes on it and sometimes I have doubts over it stopping at all! 
 
@Squadrone Rosso Those are some beautiful shots!
 
Well ladies and gents I have seen my GT today and it is looking good with just around 36k on the clock the interior looked barely worn, no scratches on the front what so ever on that nice black paint, the boot and the rear bumper also both had a little sign of contact with firm surface (I'm suspecting reversing into an object) but I can not really complain on the overall state of the car. The papework has been put into motion and I shall be picking the car up next friday/saturday!
Anyone know of a potential previous member? Numberplate is FE13 XYM.

Couple of pictures:-

 

 
Reverse light to be done eventually.
 

Blackout windscreen, helps keep the adrenaline up.

O no what have we done.  
Been to toyota today and come away with a second gt86 for my better half.
Goreous blue model.  Will post pictures and get claire joined up soon.

Completely forgot as well, Ross has been ever so kind to take me out on a quick spirited drive which made me even more convinced about the purchase, he answered all my question and cleared the doubts. 
Yes the deposit is down and the car should already be waiting for me at the dealer. To say I'm excited is an understatement! 
Lauren thank you also for your reply, I'm definitely looking forward to meeting all you guys and seeing just what can be done to the cars, I've already been reading up topics on this forum trying to learn more about the suspension setups and their pros/cons but you are right polishing my driving skills would be the best first step. We'll see how it goes I guess when I get the cat it'll go through a thorough clean/polish stage so that'll take me probably until the end of the month, next year is when I plan on the bigger stuff to happen 😊

So had my car at RRG Macclesfield the last couple of days having some warranty work done. It's the first time I've had my car in there and can only echo what others have already said, their service is spot on! As well as the few niggles I had they also fitted my MTEC shift springs and Perrin shift bush. The difference is astonishing and I would say they best Mod I'll do to the car, it's so much more 'Slotty' as Rich put it  but seriously, it's so much nicer to drive now!
They noted that my rear tyres are getting towards the end of their life, so now's the time to stop spending hours everyday looking at wheels and choose some to fit along with new tyres! Won't be anything exotic unfortunately, but hopefully improve the look over stock! - Watch this space! 

Ah right, I don't know much about the Accusump, haven't had much time to read up or read the paperwork that came with the car fully. Am I right then in thinking that if it does indeed detect low engine oil pressure (or level?) then it will release oil into it? Or is there more to it than that.
Feel free, would be good to start meeting some fellow owners:)

I likes me ginger lid. 

Harrop SC has now been ordered , thanks @Mark@Abbey M/S. Can't wait to get some reasonable power. 

So after weeks and weeks of deciding what my next big purchase would be and changing my mind multiple times a day!! - I've ended up jumping on the band wagon and bought a set of these beauty's;

Going to attempt to fit them tomorrow, my experience on working on cars is minimal, but I'm pretty handy so looking forward to getting having a go myself!
Picked up some new Whiteline front drop links as I've read they are a pain to get off in one piece, but I'm unsure how to set them to the right length of them once I've set the ride height? 
Will update once they're on!
Cheers to @James@Amber for superb service too, only ordered them yesterday afternoon and they're here this morning!

Congratulations to @KevinA taking a class win at the Toyota Sprint Series this weekend at Croft with our EL Manifold & Mapping  
 
Thanks
 
Mike

Isn't the idea of a guilty pleasure that it's something out of the ordinary, and perhaps even worse than the GT86? I'm sure most GT86 owners would take a 911 GT3 or a Cayman over a GT.
I expected more along the lines of Citroen DS or some obscure old school japanese cars, not a list of every car everyone wants.

So next on my list was to get some coilovers, after being told the Teins weren't available for when I needed, I researched the American forums and found ST Suspension. ST XTA coilover is what I went for, manufactured directly at KW, they have adjustable damping with top mounts, also a nice drop in height was a must!

The coilovers and alignment were carried out at Fensport, a great service and highly recommended. I asked for a fast road/ track setup and the car feels unbelievable, after letting a number of people with performance cars drive my car, they have commented on how great my 86 is and how much enjoyement you can have in it.

The 86 at the ring... it was quite daunting going on to the track, once the barriers had gone up there was no going back! The respect you have to have for the track is unreal, it was highly challenging but after a few laps then having Bennett coach me it became very rewarding. The car performed faultlessly, I completed 9 laps in total over the long weekend, but by the end to say I was hooked is an understatement! I really hope to complete some driver training and UK trackdays before getting back out there next year, 3/4 trips next year is the aim.
Next on the list for me is upgraded brake pads and lines, the oem discs and pads worked well but if I want to push on some better pads should help me out. I also need to have the car raised slightly as my front arch liners took a beating, I believe it was the bottom of Foxhole and the Carousel which took these out! Seeing so many stripped out cars with cages and upgraded seats really got me thinking how far to go with the car, next year the stripping process may begin.

New winter wheels arrived today. They're a set of Do-Luck Double Six wheels which are pretty rare and quite old school. They're also MAT formed so nice and strong although not the lightest - I'd guess about 9kg but haven't weighed them yet. 

Introduction:
Hello everyone, I've decided it's about time I did a proper build thread for my 2nd Subaru BRZ as thing are now starting to get more interesting.
My plan is to build a fast road car with some track focused additions. The car is my daily vehicle so I'm not planning to strip it out and turn it into a track monster. Just something that is easily to live with during the week but gets thrashed at the weekend.
Thanks for looking
Will
Here is my current list of modifications:
Engine and Exhaust:
ACE Header - CS400 Manifold – Ceramic Coated by Performance 1 Coatings in Volcanic Black
Rogue Motorsport 2.5" Front pipe with CAT and Resonator
Rogue Motorsport 2.5" Resonated Catback exhaust
Hel 19 Row Oil Cooler
SPA Design - Oil Temp & Oil Pressure Gauge (Block8Head guage holder)
Cosworth Sump baffle
Cusco Sump plug
Perrin 3” Big MAF Cold Air Intake
Tuning Developements Ecutek remap
HEL Performance braided clutch line
STi Engine Mounts
Previously Installed: 
AVO 2.5 Non-Resonated Cat Back Exhaust (Previous)
Tomei Type 80 Titanium 3” Exhaust (Previous)
Stock 2nd CAT (Previous)
Cosworth Low Temp Thermostat (Removed - Standard item refitted)
Suspension, Chassis & Brakes:
Tein Flex A Coilovers – Approx 35mm drop
Summit Rear Control Arms
Whiteline Anti-Roll bar kit - BSK016 (F: 20mm - R: 16mm)
Whiteline Front Roll Centre / Bump Steer Correction Kit 
Custom AP Racing Big Brake kit by Reyland Motorsport - AP Racing CP9200 Calipers, AP Racing 330x28mm discs
Subaru WRX STi Rear Brembo with DBA Rear Brake Disc - DBA42656-10
PFC 08 Front Brake Pads
Endless MX72 Rear Brake Pads
Hose Technic Braided Brake lines
Cusco strut tower bar with master cylinder brace
Perrin shifter bush
Powerflex rear diff mount Left & Right bushes
Powerflex front and rear subframe inserts
MTEC Shift Springs
MTEC Clutch Spring
3" Shift Extension from Ebay
STi Steering rack bolt upgraded
Cusco Steering rack bush
Cusco Steering rack brace
Cusco Brake pedal support
Wheels and tires:
Current Setup:
Wheels: Rays Gramlights 57CR 17x9 +38 in Gold
Tyres: Michlin Pilot Spot 4 in size: 245/40/17
Spare:
Wheels:949Racing Wheels 17x8 +40 in Black
Tyres: Yokohama Advan AD08RS in size: 225/45/17
Winter Setup: n/a
Previous Setup's:
Wheels: Japan Racing JR29's 17x8 +35 in Bronze
Tyres: Michelin Pilot Sports 4 in size: 225/45/17
Wheels: Rota Grid Drifts 17x9 +42 in White
Tyres: ContiSport Contact5's in size: 245/40/17 
Wheels: Japan Racing JR18 17x8 +35 in Custom Bronze colour
Tyres: Goodyear Winter Tyres in size: 215/45/17
Exterior:
Tinted rear window & rear side windows
Debadged
Rear Spoiler Delete
Voltex Type 1S - 1480mm wing
TRD Fender Fin in D4S Black
Rays Dura-Nuts L42 Blue wheel nuts
Verus Engineering Race Splitter with end plates
Verus Engineering Non-Aggressive Diffuser
Verus Engineering Mustang GT-550 Bonnet Vents
Subaru STi Side Skirts and Rear spats
Valenti Revo Smoked Rear Lights
Valenti bumper / reverse light
Valenti front bumper side marker lights
OEM 17+ Shark Fin in D4S Black
Rogue Motorsports windscreen banner
Previous:
Genuine SARD LSR GT Wing (Previous)
White side stripes (Previous)
Interior:
Alpine INE-W925R Head unit with Navigation
Cobra Nogaro bucket seat with custom Rogue Motorsport Seat mounts (using OEM sliders)
Perrin Cam Solenoid covers
Schroth Rallye 3 ASM Harness
Top Sage Bonnet Struts
Possible Future Modifications:
See: https://www.gt86.org.uk/forums/forums/topic/4097-will300s-subaru-brz-build/?do=findComment&comment=115677
Pictures:
Current:


Previous:











Dyno Plot - Current:
ACE Header / AVO Exhaust / Cosworth Panel Filter / Fensport Remap - Green
ACE Header / AVO Exhaust / Perrin 3" Big MAF Cold Air Intake / TD Dyno Remap - Red

 
Dyno Plot - Previous:
Stock Car / Cosworth Panel Filter - Green
ACE Header / AVO Exhaust / Cosworth Panel Filter / Fensport Remap - Purple

To give them a bit of a try me and Nikki took a spontaneous journey into Wales and put a couple of hundred miles on them today. We drove there with them set soft and back with a stiffer set up I thought would work well on track and wanted to try on the road (c6 r8 front and C4 r5 rear). 
The journey there was good. There is a little bit of low speed bobbling that still needs to be resolved but otherwise it was quite impressive - comfortable but firm I'd say - very well controlled. 
The journey back was much stiffer and bumpier. Not a set up I'd want to use for normal road use but liveable if you had to for some reason (can't have been that bad - Nikki slept for most of the return journey!) I think it'll work fairly well on track though. 
One of the effects of going down on the spring rate a little is that the cup 2's definitely seem to be working better - there is a noticeable improvement in grip. I think the previous set up was a little too stiff for the cup 2's and would work better with a stickier tyre and possibly aero. The other finding is fairly obvious - the car is definitely tracking the road better (it was good before,  as those who attended the suspension meet and had a ride can confirm, but is better now). The bumpy b road performance has definitely improved and I'm fairly sure the track times (at least on the cup 2's and in my cars current configuration) will also have been improved too. 
It's taken a while but I think we are quite close now to a good fast road and very capable track set up. 

They replaced the gear stick assembly to fix the buzzing issue and that apparently helps with the 2nd gear problem too. Think they may have also adjusted something, can't remember exactly what he said.
2nd gear appears to be much better so far + changing gear in general seems much smoother, it was a bit clunky before especially when cold or at high revs.
True test will be when it comes to the winter months.

That's brilliant Jeff, Thanks again! 

The diagram below hopefully shows what I was trying to explain about why there is more than 16 clicks (I'd guess around 30 ish if you did keep turning it) but why tein talk about 16. Basically the first x (14?) clicks don't do anything. The final 16 clicks (to full stiff) are then on a curve, rather than a linear relationship as they are on high end dampers, so the change to the damping rate between say 16 and 12 clicks will be a lot less of a change than between say 6 and 2 clicks which would give a big increase in damping rate.
 
Hope that makes some sense! 

entirely depends on what you are classing as a click as there is 16 full levels of dampening but with the edfc you can extend it to 32 (half adjustments) or 64 (quarter adjustments)

Turn them to full stiff and back off from there. I found around 9 clicks from full stiff was a fairly soft daily use setting,  7 clicks for a little stiffer daily use setting. As you turn the adjustment knob you should feel it sit in an indent - this is a click. 
The dampers have more than 16 clicks of adjustment but don't go past 16 from full stiff as it may damage the valving (although unlikely) and there's no real point as until the final 16 useable clicks it won't do anything to changing the dampers.