Rich

Here's your target, 8:26 lap in an (almost) stock GT86:
 

New graph! This one has a comparison of 0.25s shifts vs 1s shifts. Also it's using dyno numbers from my car. Nothing too surprising, the main thing is that shifts costs you way more than a FFD saves, so if you're introducing a shift, it's going to be worse than otherwise. This tends to favour longer ratios as you have to shift less often.
So for instance 50-80 is much quicker with a 4.1 FD as you can hit 80 in 3rd; with the other options you have to upshift in the 70s.
30-60 is interesting as there's a shift for all FDs (except 5.1) but it shows the advantage of staying in lower gear longer.

It is the most ridiculous thing ever, I felt ashamed to be in such an asbo wagon. Everyone was looking at us 😂
 
Sent from my ONEPLUS A3003 using Tapatalk
 
 

Glad you enjoyed! I'm actually down the yard working on the car all of this week, so hope to post some big updates soon

I might be tempted by a 3.9 in the long run, found in certain Lexus' so even cheaper if you can get them used. Not sure if we can find the LSD version but if so you don't even need to have the cost of pulling the diff apart.

I was interested in this, so I did a few calculations of acceleration over various speed ranges for the different final drives. There are a couple of simplifying assumptons: no wheel slip, all tractive effort is used to accelerate the car, car mass of 1240 kg, shift times are 0.5s.

There's a lot less in it than I expected, across a variety of acceleration scenarios. Something I didn't graph that's interesting is that the fastest setup for a 40-80 pull is 4.1 final drive as you can do it in third. It;s very slightly faster than a 5.1 FD in fourth over those speeds.

I tried Kev's car with the shorter final drive just on the road only for ten minutes. It made me think it wasn't worth it. I like doing Euro trips in my car, so high speed cruising is important, plus I do travel around a bit. I didn't think it offered enough to make me want to change it for the track as I sprint of course. So whilst I may lose out there, I didn't really like the shortened 1st and 2nd gear. The advantage of the shorter final drive seemed to decrease the faster you were going, though I didn't really get beyond the limits of third I admit. 

New graph! This one has a comparison of 0.25s shifts vs 1s shifts. Also it's using dyno numbers from my car. Nothing too surprising, the main thing is that shifts costs you way more than a FFD saves, so if you're introducing a shift, it's going to be worse than otherwise. This tends to favour longer ratios as you have to shift less often.
So for instance 50-80 is much quicker with a 4.1 FD as you can hit 80 in 3rd; with the other options you have to upshift in the 70s.
30-60 is interesting as there's a shift for all FDs (except 5.1) but it shows the advantage of staying in lower gear longer.

I was interested in this, so I did a few calculations of acceleration over various speed ranges for the different final drives. There are a couple of simplifying assumptons: no wheel slip, all tractive effort is used to accelerate the car, car mass of 1240 kg, shift times are 0.5s.

There's a lot less in it than I expected, across a variety of acceleration scenarios. Something I didn't graph that's interesting is that the fastest setup for a 40-80 pull is 4.1 final drive as you can do it in third. It;s very slightly faster than a 5.1 FD in fourth over those speeds.

I was interested in this, so I did a few calculations of acceleration over various speed ranges for the different final drives. There are a couple of simplifying assumptons: no wheel slip, all tractive effort is used to accelerate the car, car mass of 1240 kg, shift times are 0.5s.

There's a lot less in it than I expected, across a variety of acceleration scenarios. Something I didn't graph that's interesting is that the fastest setup for a 40-80 pull is 4.1 final drive as you can do it in third. It;s very slightly faster than a 5.1 FD in fourth over those speeds.

It's seemed like an eternity (probably because it has been!) but I should have the BRZ back in a week. It finally went on the jig earlier this week, it was 5mm out at the front wishbone pickup, not much but enough to warrant sorting it properly.
Got a set of Toms tail lights winging their way over from Japan, the first cosmetic only mod but a worthy one to start with I think 
 

After their trial by fire at Oulton I can report that the Motons were simply awesome.
The weather was very changeable yesterday and much of the day was wet or very wet so I left them exactly as they were when I arrived (2 clicks from fully soft). They really allowed the car to breathe with the circuit while keeping excess roll well in check.
I don't know the correct names (I'm generally terrible with names which isn't great for a teacher!) but their was one section on the track where there were two quite noticeable and large bumps in the track which you were hitting at around triple figures before braking heavily - the dampers soaked these up and kept the car beautifully composed.
On the way home Waze sent me a rather strange route which involved a lot of very bumpy country roads which the dampers just soaked up beautifully. I really was impressed.
However, I'm not suggesting these have given the car a limo like ride - with the design of our dampers that's never going to be possible imho.
I'd also still recommend the Tein Flex A's for purely road use. The Motons soft are now similar to the Flex A's when they're set towards fully stiff but obviously with a world of further adjustments to stiffen them more. Since the modifications on Monday for anyone who tracks a bit and uses the car on the road I'd happily recommend the Motons whereas previously I'd really have only recommended them if the majority of your use was track.

I think the next closure is early March (for the opening of the new link road, hurrah!)

I will leave this here for you Rich ,price for spare space saver with fixings   £287.12 inc vat.
  

At that price they are having a f*cking bubble.

Going for this I think:

I use it to hold a packet of mints. Not much use for anything else.

My phone sort of fits in it, but the volume buttons hit the side of the slot so the volume goes up and down like crazy.

All the best, i'm keeping mine til it dies  Then I might get another one 

Primacies are poor in the wet, even for a 'touring' tyre. I like them in the dry, give the car a nice balance.

Mine's fairly stiff - I have my chair braced against the wall behind and the pedals braced against the wall in front (using various bits of wood).
It might be worth you looking at the nixim mod - you get a progressive spring for brake (and clutch) so even without the rubber buffer it's better than standard.

Got myself a new wheel today, Logitech G29. Also did the Nixim brake and clutch spring mods on it. Really liking it, but my lack of a solid frame is showing as hitting the brake full force makes the pedals / chair slide around. Think I will have to rig up some sort of rough mountings from bits of wood...

Yes mate.
So pricing looks like this:
Cat-Back with 70mm piping and the extra larger center silencer £650 + VAT  Exhaust Tips of your choice: Varies but roughtly ~£75+VAT Helmholtz Resonators: £275+VAT Above priced are fitted. 
Please note this system differs from their standard offerings in that it has 70mm pipe diameter and the extra larger middle box is bigger than their "larger center silencer" on their website. 
If in doubt talk to Ian at H&S about your needs.
 

Yeah but a panel filter doesn't sound like GGGGGRRRRRRRRRRRRRR......

The plastic caps are in the cylinder that holds the spring - if you look in there you'll see white plastic caps, they can be removed which gives a bit more travel before the rubber block.
Picture here: