Rich

New addition from Anarchy Motive. It's a beast!

Seems the Miltek / Bridge to Gantry team don't think they're the best either

Although, probably just none of them can drive...

On track, I always sequentially shift, especially into corners.
However on the road I'm rarely trying to late brake to anywhere near that extent, and also block shifts are more often upshifts (i.e. accelerate in third then shift up to fifth or sixth to cruise) which just doesn't happen on track. The comparison just doesn't work. You've still not explained why it is poor, so it's just a he said, she said as to who is right. Racing analogies only take you so far as good road driving is about observation and planning (i.e. avoiding billies) rather than piling into corners at 10/10ths and getting every last millisecond.

On track, I always sequentially shift, especially into corners.
However on the road I'm rarely trying to late brake to anywhere near that extent, and also block shifts are more often upshifts (i.e. accelerate in third then shift up to fifth or sixth to cruise) which just doesn't happen on track. The comparison just doesn't work. You've still not explained why it is poor, so it's just a he said, she said as to who is right. Racing analogies only take you so far as good road driving is about observation and planning (i.e. avoiding billies) rather than piling into corners at 10/10ths and getting every last millisecond.

I block shift all the time (on the road at least); I don't see why it's poor technique - it's recommended by advanced driving organisations and police instruction. It shouldn't increase wear over sequential shifting if you're rev matching correctly, if anything it would reduce it as you're engaging fewer synchros.

And she's back!
 

Firstly, thanks to @Twigman for posting this http://www.gt86.org.uk/forums/topic/3364-folding-rear-seats-down/ and inspiring me to make life easier when I'm putting in my golf clubs. Also @Brig for the critical info.
For this mod I had to order a suede effect 3mm thong and a leather thong. The suede effect was for the mod, the leather one was just for wearing whilst doing the mod. I also ordered a couple of fabric Subaru key rings, given the size of these when they arrived, I have no idea who would use them as an actual key ring.

 
I also grabbed my long bendy grabber thing and trim removal tools for popping clips. Please excuse the mess in the boot, I should have hoovered before instead of after.

 
I started by laying the seats flat (hopefully for the last time via the buttons) and removed these two press clips. I don't think it was strictly necessary to undo the left hand one, but it gave a big more room to work. The blue shaded area is approximately where there is a square cut out of the backseat, behind the fabric, I used this later.

 
Most of the effort is focused around this hole in the fabric where the backseat mechanism latches, it's just below the button and impossible to miss. Fold this back a touch to get a view in there.

 
Close up.

 
I lowered a doubled length of cord down into the hole and used by grabber to grab it and pull it back up the other side of the metal rod. You can check which is the right rod by operating the push button in the seat, the rod will move slightly. Once I had the cord around the bar, I looped the other end through and pulled it tight. This material seems to have the right amount of friction to get purchase on the rod. Dropping the cord in and then grabbing it from the other side is a PITA and easily the most infuriating step, it took a few attempts and some coarse language.

 
I did initially just leave the cord coming through the factory fabric hole but I found that up there it interfered with the latch when the seat was locked into position.

 
A better solution is this is the lower hidden hole, which is behind where I marked in blue in image three, I used the grabber to pull the thong through here.

 
I then took a scalpel and made a very small incision in the fabric and threaded the cord through. I tested it a few times, one I confirmed it was good I fitted the Subaru key rings as a finishing touch and to avoid the cord getting pulled back through the hole. Pop the clips back to complete.

 
Do this on both sides. All done.
 

You can't fit legally sized letters on a 12x6, regardless of borders, since the letters themselves are 6.2" high,
The minimum legal plate height is 199 mm (7.8"):
79 mm letter height x2 = 158 mm
11 mm border top and bottom = 22 mm
19 mm spacing between rows of characters = 19 mm.
Total is 158 + 22 + 19 = 199 mm.
I suspect most import plates are printed with bike plate sized letters, which you can probably get away with. The reduces character height to 64 mm and the spacing to 13 mm, meaning the minimum plate size is 163 mm (6.4"). With a bit of bodging of borders you can get it down to 6".

My pic of the day:
 

I'll offer you a set of indicators? You're buying a BMW so it obviously won't come with any.... 😂😂😂

Think he has a tomei if my memory serves correct...

I've got the Tomei UEL and overpipe which I'm perfectly happy with, but I want to begin the upgrade path to a TD Turbo kit.
Admittedly Blyton has put plans back a bit but I'm still aiming for this year.

TE37s with Rota stickers?

TE37s with Rota stickers?

I think it's always an issue if the finance company find out, don't forget till it's paid off its their car not yours. (Assuming PCP or HP). I would guess reversible mods like wheels etc if you keep stock parts would be less likely to lead to problems but I exspect if they wanted they could still end the agreement as it's no doubt in small print. Best option in terms of modding is a personal loan as not linked to car.

TE37s with Rota stickers?

Mine's the Mi20 kit with the 6kg/6kg spring rates

Fitted my GT3 brake ducts, zip ties all the way.

 

Fitted my GT3 brake ducts, zip ties all the way.

 

No

Looks like collection is now going to be around 1st August mark. Few delays here and there and the main GT86 tech is off until 31st and Rich would prefer a perfect mechanical inspection prior to pickup.

The OEM STi Brembo option does not fit the OEM wheel without a spacer, so I would guess that the Godspeed one is the same. It also does less than desirable shift in bias if you're a track minded person.

Godspeed Brakes do a Brembo 4pot kit (330x28) for £999.

I have tried various in the back, surprisingly EBC yellows work well and are quiet.

I'm running these, they are excellent road and light track pads. Good enough for me on track at least!
Need to find a good rear pad now.