Blameshift 2 Report post Posted January 22, 2018 I've recently been eyeballing some sweet japan racing rims called JR3 (6 spokes) and the dimensions I've been looking at are 18x8 ET(offset) 40. Some suitable tyres I guess would be 225/40r18? What I'm wondering is if I should roll with some other offset and what tyres would you recommend? Will all this look silly on stock suspension setup? What color would you prefer to a satin white GT86? Rim colors are either bronze, gun metal or hyper black. bronze hyper black gunmetal Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MartinT 514 Report post Posted January 22, 2018 I'm also interested in views as I've been looking at the exact same size: 18 x 8 wheels with 225/40 Yokos (Advan Sport V105S). ET40 looks ideal but I haven't been able to measure whether a poke of 61.6mm is ok. Speedo error would be 1.87% which is fine. I'm going with H&R lowering springs to retain a good ride (it'll be my daily driver) while suiting the wheels. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blameshift 2 Report post Posted January 22, 2018 8 minutes ago, MartinT said: I'm also interested in views as I've been looking at the exact same size: 18 x 8 wheels with 225/40 Yokos (Advan Sport V105S). ET40 looks ideal but I haven't been able to measure whether a poke of around 60mm is ok. Speedo error would be 1.87% which is fine. I'm going with H&R lowering springs to retain a good ride (it'll be my daily driver) while suiting the wheels. If you're gonna lower the car you're gonna need new shock absorbers as well? Which is gonna cost you almost as much as some of the cheaper coilovers? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lowe 191 Report post Posted January 22, 2018 18's (hell any aftermarket wheels) look a bit weird if you're on stock suspension. I'm going to put 18x8 with the same size tyres that you suggest but will be lowering 25mm to match. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TTR 509 Report post Posted January 22, 2018 18x8.5 ET30 is pretty flush with the fender. x8 ET40 will still sit inside the arch a fair bit. Depends what look you're going for really. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MartinT 514 Report post Posted January 22, 2018 I lowered my current car by 25mm and kept the stock shocks on good advice. They're Eibach Pro-Kit progressive springs and give an excellent ride while firming up the suspension considerably on corners. I understand that H&R springs are equally as good. I'm not at all sold on cheap coilovers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted January 22, 2018 They are Rays TE37 copies. You will want to lower it as soon as you put the wheels on. Always the way. Are they really forged? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Varelco 211 Report post Posted January 22, 2018 2 hours ago, Blameshift said: If you're gonna lower the car you're gonna need new shock absorbers as well? Which is gonna cost you almost as much as some of the cheaper coilovers? Yeah but cheaper coil overs are cheaper for a reason. Either way most springs will run fine on stock dampers. Mine have and so have many others. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blameshift 2 Report post Posted January 22, 2018 9 minutes ago, Varelco said: Yeah but cheaper coil overs are cheaper for a reason. Either way most springs will run fine on stock dampers. Mine have and so have many others. Can I buy whatever lowering springs I want that lower the car 25mm and just bolt it directly to the car and I'm good to good? No extra costs or anything? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blameshift 2 Report post Posted January 22, 2018 50 minutes ago, Lauren said: They are Rays TE37 copies. You will want to lower it as soon as you put the wheels on. Always the way. Are they really forged? What happens if they aren't forged? Also what are the retail on one of those TE37's? Probably double the price, right? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blameshift 2 Report post Posted January 22, 2018 54 minutes ago, MartinT said: I lowered my current car by 25mm and kept the stock shocks on good advice. They're Eibach Pro-Kit progressive springs and give an excellent ride while firming up the suspension considerably on corners. I understand that H&R springs are equally as good. I'm not at all sold on cheap coilovers. Really? Will the stock shock absorbers handle 25mm lowering? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Paul 442 Report post Posted January 22, 2018 9 minutes ago, Blameshift said: What happens if they aren't forged? Also what are the retail on one of those TE37's? Probably double the price, right? Double and then some. 25mm lowering springs on stock suspension is fine. Coilovers give a better range of options for lowering, dampening etc, but springs are cheaper for a reason. 18x8.5 40 offset will sit inside the arch a fair bit. I have 44 offset on mine (same size wheel). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deacon 1357 Report post Posted January 22, 2018 13 minutes ago, Blameshift said: What happens if they aren't forged? Also what are the retail on one of those TE37's? Probably double the price, right? Nothing will happen if they're not forged (and they definitely are not forged) and the Ray's are more like 4x the cost not double. 14 minutes ago, Blameshift said: Really? Will the stock shock absorbers handle 25mm lowering? Yes. 18 minutes ago, Blameshift said: Can I buy whatever lowering springs I want that lower the car 25mm and just bolt it directly to the car and I'm good to good? No extra costs or anything? You may want / need to buy some camber bolts for the front and either camber arms / bushes for the rear to correct the camber once it's been lowered. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted January 22, 2018 Just now, Blameshift said: What happens if they aren't forged? Also what are the retail on one of those TE37's? Probably double the price, right? TE37s around £2-2.5K. They really are forged. I've looked up stuff on Japan Racing wheels but can't find any description of them actually being forged, so who knows? Some info here: http://s3mag.com/blog/real-vs-fake-wheel-guide/ Rays themselves: https://www.rayswheels.co.jp/concept/technology.php?tech=2&lang=en Analysis of Rays: Once a wheel is produced – RAYS tests their wheels to higher specific standards than what is required. This is all verified with the government as well. What a lot of people don’t know is that supplying to OEM requires the highest standards in the world. It’s at least double of what is required by standards put out by governments like JWL, or TUV. This means the amount of time and testing required drives up costs, but ensures a solid product. There are not many manufacturers that are able to satisfy these conditions and RAYS is one of them. If a fake wheel maker claims to make OEM wheels, or has the testing to back it up… get a copy of a verified report. From there, RAYS utilizes the most advanced method of manufacturing wheels – Mold Forging – to produce wheels. The tooling to set up a new design is expensive, but it makes sure that they are forging and improving the original qualities of the raw material into a structure. In fact, RAYS uses their own specially-developed aluminum, which has a higher tensile strength than typical 6061 aluminum. By adding all of this together, you can see that there are significant costs that go into producing a wheel. It’s something that requires a lot of investment and know-how to contribute positive parts to the market. That’s why these wheels cost more – but you get what you pay for Seems like everyone has replied whilst I've been trying to find some decent information on Japan Racing wheels but all to no avail! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blameshift 2 Report post Posted January 22, 2018 6 minutes ago, Deacon said: Nothing will happen if they're not forged (and they definitely are not forged) and the Ray's are more like 4x the cost not double. Yes. You may want / need to buy some camber bolts for the front and either camber arms / bushes for the rear to correct the camber once it's been lowered. What price are we looking at for those camber bolts? Small money, aye? How is this all to install as well? I have contacts but the harder the job is the more money it's gonna cost. Also, what is the upsides of forged rims? What are the reason I should get those instead of normal cast ones? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blameshift 2 Report post Posted January 22, 2018 1 minute ago, Lauren said: TE37s around £2-2.5K. They really are forged. I've looked up stuff on Japan Racing wheels but can't find any description of them actually being forged, so who knows? Some info here: http://s3mag.com/blog/real-vs-fake-wheel-guide/ Rays themselves: https://www.rayswheels.co.jp/concept/technology.php?tech=2&lang=en Analysis of Rays: Once a wheel is produced – RAYS tests their wheels to higher specific standards than what is required. This is all verified with the government as well. What a lot of people don’t know is that supplying to OEM requires the highest standards in the world. It’s at least double of what is required by standards put out by governments like JWL, or TUV. This means the amount of time and testing required drives up costs, but ensures a solid product. There are not many manufacturers that are able to satisfy these conditions and RAYS is one of them. If a fake wheel maker claims to make OEM wheels, or has the testing to back it up… get a copy of a verified report. From there, RAYS utilizes the most advanced method of manufacturing wheels – Mold Forging – to produce wheels. The tooling to set up a new design is expensive, but it makes sure that they are forging and improving the original qualities of the raw material into a structure. In fact, RAYS uses their own specially-developed aluminum, which has a higher tensile strength than typical 6061 aluminum. By adding all of this together, you can see that there are significant costs that go into producing a wheel. It’s something that requires a lot of investment and know-how to contribute positive parts to the market. That’s why these wheels cost more – but you get what you pay for Seems like everyone has replied whilst I've been trying to find some decent information on Japan Racing wheels but all to no avail! Ive been trying to find anything about them as well but I've found nothing. Everyone mostly tell me that "they're fine" but now that you mentioned forged rims I am more keen on those... the price tag is juicy though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Varelco 211 Report post Posted January 22, 2018 Dont worry about forged wheels 90% of aftermarket wheels aren't forged. JR wheels are budget wheels but they meet 'JWL' standard which is stamped somewhere on the wheel. That's Japanese Light Alloy Wheel Standard. So have some credibility. Camber bolts are cheap as chips. As long as you pick a set of springs which don't drop too low and have respectable spring rates you will have no issues. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted January 22, 2018 36 minutes ago, Blameshift said: What price are we looking at for those camber bolts? Small money, aye? How is this all to install as well? I have contacts but the harder the job is the more money it's gonna cost. Also, what is the upsides of forged rims? What are the reason I should get those instead of normal cast ones? They are a lot lighter and a whole lot stronger. Well, I'm sure the JR wheels will do the job. Plenty of people use them. The lightness of a genuine forged wheel has performance advantages of course and it is the real deal. So it depends if authenticity is important to you, or price is the factor. I got mine secondhand and got them refurbed for not much more than the cost of your wheels new. Choices etc. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deacon 1357 Report post Posted January 22, 2018 41 minutes ago, Blameshift said: What price are we looking at for those camber bolts? Small money, aye? How is this all to install as well? I have contacts but the harder the job is the more money it's gonna cost. Also, what is the upsides of forged rims? What are the reason I should get those instead of normal cast ones? Camber bolts are about £25. Suspension is doable yourself with relatively basic tools. Forged wheels are generally lighter and stronger. However, unless you're tracking the car a lot (and as you're looking at lowering springs I'm presuming not) you won't really notice any great benefit. I'd just find some wheels you like and not worry about their construction method to be honest. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kodename47 446 Report post Posted January 22, 2018 Just to add, change spring and/or camber bolts and you'll need a wheel alignment done. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
MartinT 514 Report post Posted January 22, 2018 Yep, done it before - springs, camber bolts and alignment are a job worth getting done professionally. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
will300 812 Report post Posted January 23, 2018 @Blameshift you'll want these ones: http://jr-wheels.com/towar.2775.japan.racing.jr3.18x8.et35.5x100120.matt.black.html this is the best size for fitment without being overly aggressive. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Blameshift 2 Report post Posted January 23, 2018 41 minutes ago, will300 said: @Blameshift you'll want these ones: http://jr-wheels.com/towar.2775.japan.racing.jr3.18x8.et35.5x100120.matt.black.html this is the best size for fitment without being overly aggressive. I heard from some people that the 35 offset could potentially damage your car/hit your fender w/e. That's why I thought more of ET 40 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nimz 70 Report post Posted January 23, 2018 3 minutes ago, Blameshift said: I heard from some people that the 35 offset could potentially damage your car/hit your fender w/e. That's why I thought more of ET 40 They are wrong Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Church 209 Report post Posted January 23, 2018 Stock rather deep offset is as it is mostly to be able to claim that you can fit snow chains around wheels (IIRC requirement for car to be sold in some countries. I doubt someone may ever use such feature in this car (as by when normal winter tires are not sufficient car would be unusable anyway due low ground clearance), but dura lex, sed lex). There is lot space to go till rubbing to fender. But there are also some illeffects if one goes too overboard with sticking wheels out. For example due scrub radius change steering will get heavier and wheels more tending to follow road grooves, and there will be more load/wear on wheel bearings, as wheel will press on them "with longer lever arm". But something like x8 ET35 vs stock x7 ET48 wheels should be imho safe enough, and shouldn't rub on fender or suspension arms. IIRC to get stock wheels "flush", one needed 20-25mm spacers, so x8" ET35 (12.7mm+13mm out) sounds close to that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
