Ridowh

I use Sainsburys super unleaded 97 now because it's much more convenient for me and cheaper. I average 500 miles per week. The mpg is currently reading 33.2 (Harrop supercharged).

I put some Lucas fuel additive every 2-3 fill-ups to keep the fuel system and injectors clean and that keeps it running sweetly.

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Thanks. I have no idea why I hadn’t spotted there was a group FB page before. 

I've got the GPS unit stuck to the top of the head unit, works mostly fine. It did have a period of misreading the speed but not sure if that was just poor signal as it rarely happens. Apparently the stock GPS unit for the satnav is on top of the head unit so shouldn't be an issue.
The only issue with it stuck on top of the head unit means I need to take the vent out above the head unit, then unstick the GPS unit before removing the head unit. Not something you need to do often though...

No worries you are welcome. I reckon I'll be doing a track day around January as the new car is apparently going to arrive sometime in November if all goes to plan. I have a GR Yaris with circuit pack on pre-order since March!  

Thanks Lauren. I’m really looking forward to meeting up with people. My last meet was Japfest 2018, just after I had got my car from the shipping company after returning to the U.K.  That was what confirmed my plans for fitting S/C and more. It’s taken this long to realise those plans. Now the fun should begin, apart from bloody Covid-19 messing things up. 
If you have any track days planned before next year give me a shout and I’ll see if I can travel up and meet you. 

What new car are you getting by the way?

Thank you Mike. That is very helpful indeed. I was struggling to think where to fit the front driver unit. I saw pictures somewhere where someone had fitted the rear driver unit into a cutout in the polystyrene boot liner. Although they fitted it heatsink side up I would still worry about putting something designed to be a hot heat sink into a material that is an insulator. I like your ideas much better. 

I also saw the GPS very neatly fitted into one of the front dash speaker pods, under the mesh grill. That looks ideal as well as long as there’s no interference with picking up the requisite number of sat links. 
 
I agree with you in that the overall job of fitting them is a pretty simple one. I’m looking forward to doing it. Also, after a mispent youth carrying out jobs on cars and motorcycles with zero planning I have turned into a ‘measure twice, cut once’ person now, especially when it comes to £800+ worth of kit. 
 
If I make a good enough job of it I’ll make sure I take a bunch of photos for anyone else that decides to go the EDFC route in the future. I’d had the shocks and EDFC sitting on a shelf in the garage for a year and was desperate to get it fitted and working (just after I bought it all I came down with serious osteoarthritis problems in both knees which put me out of action for months). 
I can’t wait to have it up and running properly before my next day at Goodwood, which I am planning for late Sept early Oct. I want to have a good amount of time to fully configure and fine tune it first so I spend less time messing with it at the track, and fit more sessions in. 
I’m looking forward to meeting everyone at Japfest next year, and maybe even a track day meet if one happens sooner than that. 

Thanks Luke,
my main concern is not to attach the feed to a circuit not designed to handle the current requirements. The controller won’t draw much, so so the head unit feed will likely be more than enough.The front and rear driver units may well be drawing a bit more though. 
I sent an email to Yukiko to ask her opinion so hopefully she’ll reply in the next day or two. I have to wait for the GPS sensor I only just ordered from Fensport in any case. 

Hi Richard. It needs to be a feed when the ignition is on. RRG Macclesfield fitted mine, so I don't know what they used in that respect. My TEIN setup with EDFC Active Pro has been on my car for 130,000 miles and 6.5 years now! It still works faultlessly and I've never had  an issue with is. I expect the next national meet is going to be Japfest Silverstone next May. I will have my new car by then, but my fiance should be there in the GT.
 

Some new settings I'm trying out. Note this is supposed to be a good all round road setup for general driving with the idea being it's full soft below 20km/h for speed humps and bad surfaces and then it stiffens proportionately. Note that the increases in lateral G are more than G2 stock settings. I haven't messed with longitudinal G, I just use G2 at the moment. 
 
Speed and lateral G have been changed though. Will be interesting to see how it pans out. The idea was for it to be comfortable when not trying that hard and then it stiffens up significantly when you push on and load up the G force. 
 
We'll see. 
 

 
NB: now corrected to show cumulative speed increase to stiffness.

Thanks all for your advice. I don’t know where the time has gone since you posted them. I honestly seem to have blinked and it’s now November. 
In fairness though, I have had serious knee problems that got much worse (to the point of being unable to move without crutches) since July, so my focus hasn’t been on my car at all.
Until now that is.
I had some wonderful injections of something or other into my knees two weeks ago and it had given me back a lot of mobility, not perfect, but sufficient to make a start on my suspension and brakes upgrades and all the other stuff I need before the track day I have booked in December. 
I will be looking to add vents early in the New Year so I am very grateful for the info you have provided. 
 
R

Trackspec look somewhat better in my eyes then verus, and vent a bit better by at least vendor's data, but they don't have rainguards option and cut across strenghtening ribs (though i doubt for it to be any issue, and not letting snow/rain fall on engine imho is overrated too. Going over any puddle of water will splash there few orders more water anyway, no?). Then again rainguards reduce efficiency, and probably as summer/track use considered, worth removing anyway. Still, if one wants "free" temp lowering and some reducing of front lift without adding much drag, vented hood is nice feature to have, and is cheaper then eg. aftermarket CF or FRP hood with vents.
That drag vs downforce would make me aero set that i'd wish - hood vents, rear diffuser and extra underside streamlining panels. Not fan of big ricer wangs, front splitters and canards.

It's just how you add strength to a flexible metal without making it thick and heavy  The bonnet is the same on all models. Some come with less insulation, like this:

If you remove all the insulation, the whole bonnet is like that.
Here are the original set of 4 Verus vents:

You could do them as a pair or all 4. They have also recently done a pair for the outside rear, but I believe they are less efficient (better looking though IMO). I also think TrackSpec make some larger ones if that's what you fancy....

Check Verus hood vent set of four. Made to fit in those "windows". Trackspec motorsports vent set of two but bigger ones goes/cuts across some.
As for impact, they work and they do reduce underbonnet temps and also add a bit front downforce.
What one should take care of: to cut in right places, where there is low pressure zone, not before or after it. Also if rain/snow worries, maybe also optional rain guards (for eg. verus set).

That's better. You need to put some prices up though. If it's any help I sold an airbox and induction piping for £45 but mine had spent less than a week on my car so was absolutely mint. So I would say £30 maybe?
Exhaust £50-80 I would say. 
That head unit, I don't think it will have any value especialy with no Western Europe maps on it. It looks worse than the stock UK head unit. It's not pretty is it?

Tommy and Andrew - thank you so much for all the info. I will need to look into getting the info required when I get time. Then I’ll look into whether or not it’s something I’m able to do. 
Even though electronics (engineering) is a long-standing hobby of mine, there are still limits to what I am comfortable doing with a car, especially given the complexity of electrics in modern cars and motorcycles. I normally shy away from anything too risky, seeing as my 86 is the first car I’ve ever bought outright and, just as when I had motorcycle, I’m hesitant to risk anything that may result in a cascade failure, which would typically occur when I am driving somewhat enthusiastically. 
I’ll see how I get on. 
Very much appreciated. 
 
Richard 

I have a very smart, very compact (smaller than a paperback novel) jump starter battery. It recharges via the 5v USB output in the car, or can be mains charged via an adapter. When I get the inverter I will test it out overnight and see whether it has the low current, continuous drain capacity (vs. the high current, short term power needed for a car start). 
And of course I also have my old, original Toyota battery that was replaced. 
The replacment is an 80Ah (vs. the original’s 45Ah). I am not certain how suitable that would be being used for up to 8 continuous hours. 
According to the manufacturer’s website for my sleep apnoea machine, for a 12v, deep cycle battery, using an inverter, it will draw 0.9 Amps. Given this, I should think that the old battery I have may well manage OK. However I will need to look into the complexities of wiring required to ensure that it is safely connected up to both the car and the inverter.
Perhaps even using just the car’s single existing 80Ah battery will be totally sufficient. Then I can keep the Lipo jump start unit ready in case of higher than expected drain. That would certainly keep costs and complexity low. 

I think i know whats happened i brought my car back from South  Africa last year low spec all being in KPH , For the SVA test it obviously needed to be in MPH .  I bought a UK cluster which wouldnt work because of immobilizer  so just changed the face plate from the clocks so i had a MPH reading ( analog ) it got me through the test and on the road . I am looking at attempting to modify the circuit board to swop the 10 pin plug which is missing on the low spec for the digital speedo to push into . Will let you know how i get along if it works i will have to replace switches to change between KPH and MPH