Ade

Standard sump plug gasket is 16x21x2.3.

Using copper washers on a steel sump pan will be fine, but be careful using them to seal aluminium, the copper is normally harder than the aluminium so sometimes won't seal properly.

I'd normally use an aluminium crush washer in that case, but you can anneal the copper washer with a blow torch as a work around as well.

Sump drain is indeed M16. I just use copper crush washers bought for a few quid on ebay. 22mm OD works fine. Im sure a standard M16 flat washer would seal but copper crush washers are cheap enough.
The diff and gearbox used the same flat washers on mine. I reused them but will replace next time I change the diff and gearbox fluid. 

Superb, thanks! I've ordered a variety of copper crush washers from eBay, so that's good. I think I've got a lifetime's supply for a touch less than £22 asking price of the Unobtanium Toyota ones. 

Yes

Ohlins? 
😉

You should be thanking me and @Ade for those brakes. So much better than the stock ones.

They are used as a drift tyre but work very well as a Track-day tyre.
No issues with heat soak either done approx 3 or 4 track-days per tyre set with no degrading in grip level.

No problem had some great results with them, you need to size the tyres accordingly and you gain grip vs nimbleness. Horses for courses I guess.

Always used ATE in my race cars and road, not expensive and is used by many major players.

Fronts:
set the camber bolts at the front to ass much as you can. I like a little toe out (0.05) to turn in feel.
Rears:
go for the same camber as the fronts. Tad of toe in for high speed stability.
 
Job done 

Fronts:
set the camber bolts at the front to ass much as you can. I like a little toe out (0.05) to turn in feel.
Rears:
go for the same camber as the fronts. Tad of toe in for high speed stability.
 
Job done 

Fronts:
set the camber bolts at the front to ass much as you can. I like a little toe out (0.05) to turn in feel.
Rears:
go for the same camber as the fronts. Tad of toe in for high speed stability.
 
Job done 

Thanks for all the info on fluid and stuff.
Just ordered the kit from Brummie land. Should be landing at RRG for Friday or Monday. Reckon I'll try 5.1 then and see how I go which Richard should be able to get for me.

Honestly. Use Dot 5.1. It doesn't absorb moisture as fast and still has a high boiling point. I used RBF 660 and changed it after 7 months due to soggy pedal. I cant be bothered bleeding the brakes all the time. 
Try dot 5.1 and if you boil the fluid, go up to a higher temp fluid but dont waste money on race fluid you probably wont need. Whole point of a BBK like this is to allow the use of softer streetable pads and normal fluid. Race pads and fluid should be reserved for Race calipers/setups which are designed to glow red/smoke/take abuse and still work. 
Having said that I used cheap Valvoline dot 5.1 with race pads (clubracers) making them smoke like a mother trucker and the fluid was fine. I did bleed the calipers after every track day though just to be safe.
 
 
 

Forgot to add - yes I agree the reyland discs offer good value and cirtainly better heatsinking than oem which is also stright/drilled vanes.

Martin Hadland (of reyland motorsport) also sells replacement discs for just about any brake kit ever made.

Price difference when I came to replace my discs was £295 vs £400 (with part box discount) for the pair. So for the sake of £100 I went with the AP option and a soft pad.

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I have the GT3 ducts and don't think they do a lot either. The best thing about them was the Porsche shaped Haribos that came in the box.

No argument from me. Had them also fade in the Alps. Though tbh Alps are tougher than most tracks especially on the descent.
Its why I looked into BBK's with good advice from people like @ade and @will300 . I would have bought some myself but some tasty suspension came up. Ultimately @Lauren I think a BBK is the best choice over disk and pads having seen your usage.

I treat the BBK like fit and forget. Hot OEM brakes with pads like the HC800 or hotter will cause the caliper seals to leak eventually. One of my pistons was leaking when I took them off. Also the dust boots crack and fall apart leaving them open to salt ingress. 

@Lauren @rob275 A whatsapp group is not exactly the same kettle of fish, and there's no hierarchy intended. Adding new members is not my responsibility alone - it's a group effort which requires more 'admins' (i use the term loosely).
A forum is different, anyone can simply come on here and create an account without having to rely on somebody adding them manually. Each platform has their advantages.
So you see in our case that's the best way to do it. 
Hats off to you both for an excellent drivers club and forum community. I'm an occasional poster here and long time lurker who's learned a great deal from this community and gotten a lot of value from your for sale threads. Hopefully I will get to meet you both over time. 
Also... Will in Suffolk, welcome to the group! 

Admin can we ban Tashan forever please. 

 
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I'm trying not to be anecdotal, as to be honest individual reports of "mine is fine after xxx track days", "I drive hard" - aren't very helpful in the grand scheme of figuring out what causes it. A trend is.
From reading reports plus my own experience it seems to be more likely to happen when shifting at/near the red line, when there is a lot of heat in the engine bay (i.e. during a track session). If you're shifting at 7k rpm it's less frequent. Once it's happened once during a trackday it will come back a lot easier.
There's some concensus from the US contingent that coil packs are near enough a consumable if tracking the car on a regular basis, although they tend to have warmer ambient temperatures which can't help. Some advocate wrapping the outer in gold reflective heat tape to help them last longer.
The last time I had one pop up was at the end of a Nordschliefe lap when I decided to give it full beans on the huge Dottinger straight. Hot engine bay, first 7400rpm shift and there you go. Not seen since. Annoyingly I bet it will pop up at Oulton next week, but I can't warranty it as I can't reproduce it on the road.
I may put a poll up or something!
 
Edit -
 

Indeed everyone is different. I enjoy passenger rides but at the same time want to get out on track.
I just fancy trying a really grippy tyre as ive never tried them before and your DG03s were mighty impressive. It did make me chuckle that I was struggling not to sit on your lap on left handers 😂
 
Regarding oil most people are spinning bearings when they combine slicks and aero. Slicks alone seem to be okay as was evident by the tmg race car running 245 pirelli racing slick and not needing any oil mods. Once they added aero in 2016 they were getting oil surge and added a baffle plate. Just a bit of bent metal but seems to work. The Cosworth item for £150 is much more sophisticated with the rubber trap doors and this style is used in many race engines that dont require a dry sump setup.  Having said all that a good baffle plate gives you a bit more headroom but id alway recommend a pressure guage before changing any of the oil system. If I didnt have mine id have blown my engine after fitting the moroso junk.

I read a few of those thread and the only real issue I read was related to the power steering not being able to handle the tyre so might be worth keeping track stints on slicks a little shorter.

http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7890&page=9

 

Current plan: "Mod the shit out of it."