Stutopia

They should do the repair, as they'd offered, if you accept that. I think you'd struggle to claim the costs of travel (except by their very goodwill) particularly when you chose the dealer knowing how far away it is. A free repair is not being unreasonable.
 
In terms of rejection, you don't even need to accept their repair offer - if you felt sufficiently strongly. The terms are outlined here http://www.shoosmiths.co.uk/client-resources/legal-updates/consumer-rights-act-2015-and-automotive-sector-10282.aspx but you can also read the act online, particularly this section http://www.legislation.gov.uk/ukpga/2015/15/section/9/enacted about 'freedom from minor defects' and 'appearance and finish'. But I really wouldn't go shouting the odds about this though if they're offering a repair, it's a last resort and if they call your bluff, you may have to go through with it.

If you have TEIN suspension like I do and have the EDFC Active Pro adjusting the damper settings for the track is merely a matter of pressing a couple of buttons on the EDFC unit, to set to my track settings. The TEINS have adjustable top mounts so front camber is adjustable, though you don't really go and change your camber just for the track. The rears as with any other coilover setup require adjustable lower control arms or offset bushes (as I have) to adjust the camber. 2 degrees negative camber all round makes a big difference for the track. The bump and rebound adjust together (not indepedently) on the TEINs. But even if you don't have EDFC, it's simply a matter of twisting the knobs on top of the damper unit under the bonnet and in the boot. The work of a moment really. 
Don't forget track days are not competitive. IME a Golf GTI will be easy to beat. I was easily quicker on a sprint than my friends 375bhp remapped Golf R, though the track did not have long straights. In regard to being quicker than your colleagues, will wholly depend upon how good a driver you are. This will be far more of a factor than the car. 

The knowledge is all an illusion, I'm not first hand experienced, but I've come across a few people with similar issues and the CRA is black and white on this. They all go the same way - rejection under the CRAwithin 30 days is your nuclear option. But, if your dealer is being genuinely helpful (not stonewalling until your 30 days are over) personally I'd leave the CC company alone for now (great Plan B though) and get it sorted with the dealer, especially if you're planning to use them for ongoing service & maintenace.  What you don't want is to bully them into a cheapo/crap repair (especially if it needs paint blending for the corroded area) that you're then arguing about indefinitely.
As with anything like this though, do what you think is right, not what some random on the internet says  You can always get free, impartial and genuinely knowledge based advice from Citizens Advice too.

Sorted it, thanks billdingo.
Only minor moment of panic was when I came to test it. Screen switched over to camera as expected but all I got was this! Couldn't figure out how I'd managed to mount the camera so incredibly wrongly...

...yeah, you should always shut the boot before checking your reverse camera
 

Sorted it, thanks billdingo.
Only minor moment of panic was when I came to test it. Screen switched over to camera as expected but all I got was this! Couldn't figure out how I'd managed to mount the camera so incredibly wrongly...

...yeah, you should always shut the boot before checking your reverse camera
 

Sorted it, thanks billdingo.
Only minor moment of panic was when I came to test it. Screen switched over to camera as expected but all I got was this! Couldn't figure out how I'd managed to mount the camera so incredibly wrongly...

...yeah, you should always shut the boot before checking your reverse camera
 

Apologies for the old thread revival but I spotted this wobbling on the motorway just the other day and wanted to sort it. I thought I'd post up a solution of sorts in case anyone else stumbles across it with the same issue.
Under the bonnet there are two rubber stops which the bonet should sit up against when closed. These little guys.

 
If you give one a twist you'll notice they can be removed with ease and that they have a "spiral" cut into them.

 
When I checked the bonnet you could see a noticeable difference in contact spots from the two sides.
 

 
You can twist the stopper back on and keep twisting it up and down until you hit the desired height and hopefully end this wobbly bonnet blight

If you spotted my post in the noobs section you'll know I'm fresh to the Toybaru platform, accordingly I thought I'd go for it a bit here by way of an introduction. Naturally I spent the first few days getting familiar with her from behind the wheel, but I've now gotten familiar from behind the mitt. I've been getting into detailing over the last couple of years, trying a variety of goodies from trade products to boutique, but it's always been on the grey of my Zed, so working on the gorgeous mica paint is a bit of a treat. The dealer value was decent, clean but not protected, but with a few hundred miles this weekend she was pretty filthy and ready for me to get stuck in. That first wash can often be revealing. I hope you don't mind me posting up some pics, sharing a few products I like and maybe asking some questions too.
 
I've broken out my favourite goodies for the maiden wash, ready to do battle. In the bucket is a Microfibre Madness Incredimitt, excellent - get one.
 

 
 
I haven't found a better shampoo than AMMO Paint Cleanser (Bathe+ is a close second favourite) it gives excellent lubrication on the paint and maintains good level of soapiness throughout the wash. The downside is it is expensive as it comes only from Larry in the US, worth it though if you fancy a treat. To keep the same theme going I also broke out the AMMO Brute Wheel Soap and AMMO Plum Wheel Cleaner, these aren't as special as the shampoo but are still excellent products. 
 
First up, I've used a fair few snow foams, some shaving foam thick (Magifoam) and others quite watery (Avalanche, BH), I'm not too fussed about dwell time and thickness, it's more about shifting as much debris as possible before touching the paint. The best cleaning one I've found is Bilt Hamber Autofoam, but I am a bit of a tart, so I am currently dabbling with Car Chem's offering and another one I like i Envy's Bubbly Jubbly (best smelling foam by miles)
 

 
 
Not quite made my mind up on this yet, I think BH probably edges it.
 
Plum liberally spritzed on the wheels, but normally I'd be using Sonax Extreme Wheel Cleaner or Car Chem Revolt for a decon.
 

 
 
As you can see, AMMO Plum is indeed another fallout remover which turns purple, like many other offerings. However, the plum element stops AMMO smelling like the end of the world. It's more of a plum scented murder scene, in a warm country.
 
Most of the purple on there is the result of me trying to bed in the previous owner's new pads and discs. They must have been the last thing they did as they're as clean as they came out the packaging, with copper slip still on one rim from a lingering fingering. I managed to find a bit more bite, but I might have to try some new pads if these don't sharpen up, I got back in the Zed today and nearly went through the windscreen at the first set of lights.
 
Anyway, back on topic. Generally the wheels are in excellent nick, three of four are spotless, with just some light kerbing on the front driver's side. However, they are a PITA to clean compared to my previous RAYS. Intricate and narrow, I can barely get woolies in there. But I persisted and they came up pretty nice.
 

 
 
After foam and rinse there wasn't anything stubborn I could see, so it was on to the more intricate spots.
 

 
 
I did get to find some nasty surprises along the way in the wash, I don't even know how some of these popped up, not the normal random deep scratches. Actual boot lid graffiti here.
 

 
 
Similar on the nearside front wing too. I had a bit of a go at them by hand with some Meg's Ultimate but I only softened them, they need mowing down my machine. There's a few stone chips that I need to touch up too.
 

 
 
After stripping the paint back and towelling off, got on with giving the glass some love. For me, Stoner's Invisible Glass is just brilliant. I picked this up two years ago in Walmart across the pond when our rental Camaro had a weird stain on the windscreen. Been using it (this exact can!) ever since, the flash time is perfect and it is a doddle to use. No streaks or smears. The aerosol does like to overspray onto panels in any kind of breeze, so mist your MF towel away from the car and apply towel to glass. The outline of the wiper's is still on the glass after I finished but this isn't too bad as I need to break out my Gtechniq glass polish prior to adding a hydrophobic coating, not RainX. 
 

 
Leaves a very nice clean finish for not much input
 

 
I don't quite know how I missed this (probably a bit too excited at the test drive) until now but something gritty has got trapped in the weatherstrip on the window/door seal and it's made a serious impression on the window. Not easy to focus on with a phone, but you can see the three distinct vertical lines (between the red ones) where the damage has been done. Sadly, they feel far too deep to polish out. 
 

 
 
Not used to having to clamber in the back to clean the rear glass, usually it's a hop in the boot, so if anyone know a good technique for clearing the bottom third of the inside of the rear window which doesn't involve being a contortionist with Trump size hands, PLEASE LET ME KNOW.
 
As expected on a new sale, the interior is clean apart from some "fluids" under the cup holder, either old tea or a brown, human discharge. Hard to say and tasting proved indeterminate So just gave the plastics a once over with Gtecniq Matte Dash. I can't tell if this does anything on already clean plastics, but it doesn't do any harm.
 

 
 
Having had a quick pass round the inside, it was back out to inspect and finish off. I was certain a clay bar would be needed given it appeared the paint hadn't been protected at all, but it feels fairly glassy, with no major rough areas, just a few tar spots I'll get next time. Finished the job off with a layer of AMMO Skin Defense [sic] which is my go to sealant. I'm just on ploymer, not graduated to the modern hard coatings yet as I have to detail outside and can't chance screwing up a hard coating with contaminants.
 
I'm not really a wax lover, I might break it out for special occasions but despite it's extreme grabiness Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer always leaves a strong and pleasing finish to my eyes. I skipped it this time as the Skin was so freshly applied, but I'll be using i on the next quiz wash as part of the drying stage (a bit of water reduces said grabiness).
 

 

 
Looking pretty decent if I do say so myself
 
 
Tomorrow's job is to get rid of the filth under the bonnet. Looks like it's not been touched from new. It looks like it should come up with just a bit of elbow grease, a brush and some APC. I'm hoping I can keep the carb cleaner safely in the shed.
 

 
 
Did a little mod too, popped on some Bosch Aeros to eliminate a bit of smearing and reduce drag (good for an extra second to 60 they say  
 

 
 
You just don't see enough glamour shot of wiper blades these days...
 

 
Quick question before I go, am I missing a nipple on top of the dash?
 

 
Or are they all like that?
 
 
 
Thanks! I hope this hasn't been too tedious for you, I got a bit carried away

Nice one, they're quite common on my previous so getting them sorted on warranty would be excelllent.

If you spotted my post in the noobs section you'll know I'm fresh to the Toybaru platform, accordingly I thought I'd go for it a bit here by way of an introduction. Naturally I spent the first few days getting familiar with her from behind the wheel, but I've now gotten familiar from behind the mitt. I've been getting into detailing over the last couple of years, trying a variety of goodies from trade products to boutique, but it's always been on the grey of my Zed, so working on the gorgeous mica paint is a bit of a treat. The dealer value was decent, clean but not protected, but with a few hundred miles this weekend she was pretty filthy and ready for me to get stuck in. That first wash can often be revealing. I hope you don't mind me posting up some pics, sharing a few products I like and maybe asking some questions too.
 
I've broken out my favourite goodies for the maiden wash, ready to do battle. In the bucket is a Microfibre Madness Incredimitt, excellent - get one.
 

 
 
I haven't found a better shampoo than AMMO Paint Cleanser (Bathe+ is a close second favourite) it gives excellent lubrication on the paint and maintains good level of soapiness throughout the wash. The downside is it is expensive as it comes only from Larry in the US, worth it though if you fancy a treat. To keep the same theme going I also broke out the AMMO Brute Wheel Soap and AMMO Plum Wheel Cleaner, these aren't as special as the shampoo but are still excellent products. 
 
First up, I've used a fair few snow foams, some shaving foam thick (Magifoam) and others quite watery (Avalanche, BH), I'm not too fussed about dwell time and thickness, it's more about shifting as much debris as possible before touching the paint. The best cleaning one I've found is Bilt Hamber Autofoam, but I am a bit of a tart, so I am currently dabbling with Car Chem's offering and another one I like i Envy's Bubbly Jubbly (best smelling foam by miles)
 

 
 
Not quite made my mind up on this yet, I think BH probably edges it.
 
Plum liberally spritzed on the wheels, but normally I'd be using Sonax Extreme Wheel Cleaner or Car Chem Revolt for a decon.
 

 
 
As you can see, AMMO Plum is indeed another fallout remover which turns purple, like many other offerings. However, the plum element stops AMMO smelling like the end of the world. It's more of a plum scented murder scene, in a warm country.
 
Most of the purple on there is the result of me trying to bed in the previous owner's new pads and discs. They must have been the last thing they did as they're as clean as they came out the packaging, with copper slip still on one rim from a lingering fingering. I managed to find a bit more bite, but I might have to try some new pads if these don't sharpen up, I got back in the Zed today and nearly went through the windscreen at the first set of lights.
 
Anyway, back on topic. Generally the wheels are in excellent nick, three of four are spotless, with just some light kerbing on the front driver's side. However, they are a PITA to clean compared to my previous RAYS. Intricate and narrow, I can barely get woolies in there. But I persisted and they came up pretty nice.
 

 
 
After foam and rinse there wasn't anything stubborn I could see, so it was on to the more intricate spots.
 

 
 
I did get to find some nasty surprises along the way in the wash, I don't even know how some of these popped up, not the normal random deep scratches. Actual boot lid graffiti here.
 

 
 
Similar on the nearside front wing too. I had a bit of a go at them by hand with some Meg's Ultimate but I only softened them, they need mowing down my machine. There's a few stone chips that I need to touch up too.
 

 
 
After stripping the paint back and towelling off, got on with giving the glass some love. For me, Stoner's Invisible Glass is just brilliant. I picked this up two years ago in Walmart across the pond when our rental Camaro had a weird stain on the windscreen. Been using it (this exact can!) ever since, the flash time is perfect and it is a doddle to use. No streaks or smears. The aerosol does like to overspray onto panels in any kind of breeze, so mist your MF towel away from the car and apply towel to glass. The outline of the wiper's is still on the glass after I finished but this isn't too bad as I need to break out my Gtechniq glass polish prior to adding a hydrophobic coating, not RainX. 
 

 
Leaves a very nice clean finish for not much input
 

 
I don't quite know how I missed this (probably a bit too excited at the test drive) until now but something gritty has got trapped in the weatherstrip on the window/door seal and it's made a serious impression on the window. Not easy to focus on with a phone, but you can see the three distinct vertical lines (between the red ones) where the damage has been done. Sadly, they feel far too deep to polish out. 
 

 
 
Not used to having to clamber in the back to clean the rear glass, usually it's a hop in the boot, so if anyone know a good technique for clearing the bottom third of the inside of the rear window which doesn't involve being a contortionist with Trump size hands, PLEASE LET ME KNOW.
 
As expected on a new sale, the interior is clean apart from some "fluids" under the cup holder, either old tea or a brown, human discharge. Hard to say and tasting proved indeterminate So just gave the plastics a once over with Gtecniq Matte Dash. I can't tell if this does anything on already clean plastics, but it doesn't do any harm.
 

 
 
Having had a quick pass round the inside, it was back out to inspect and finish off. I was certain a clay bar would be needed given it appeared the paint hadn't been protected at all, but it feels fairly glassy, with no major rough areas, just a few tar spots I'll get next time. Finished the job off with a layer of AMMO Skin Defense [sic] which is my go to sealant. I'm just on ploymer, not graduated to the modern hard coatings yet as I have to detail outside and can't chance screwing up a hard coating with contaminants.
 
I'm not really a wax lover, I might break it out for special occasions but despite it's extreme grabiness Sonax Brilliant Shine Detailer always leaves a strong and pleasing finish to my eyes. I skipped it this time as the Skin was so freshly applied, but I'll be using i on the next quiz wash as part of the drying stage (a bit of water reduces said grabiness).
 

 

 
Looking pretty decent if I do say so myself
 
 
Tomorrow's job is to get rid of the filth under the bonnet. Looks like it's not been touched from new. It looks like it should come up with just a bit of elbow grease, a brush and some APC. I'm hoping I can keep the carb cleaner safely in the shed.
 

 
 
Did a little mod too, popped on some Bosch Aeros to eliminate a bit of smearing and reduce drag (good for an extra second to 60 they say  
 

 
 
You just don't see enough glamour shot of wiper blades these days...
 

 
Quick question before I go, am I missing a nipple on top of the dash?
 

 
Or are they all like that?
 
 
 
Thanks! I hope this hasn't been too tedious for you, I got a bit carried away

With regards to the scratches on the glass it looks like the guide may have become detached, this has happened to a few of us and have had the guide fixed and glass replaced under warranty.

The light sensor for the headlights is on the passenger side. The "missing" one is for LHD cars.

Hello!
I've been lurking on AutoTrader for months waiting for an in budget, relatively nearby, BRZ to take for a drive and finally one popped up last week. This morning I went and picked it up and have spent most of today enjoying what it feels like to shed 300kg overnight. I can confirm, it feels good to drop a belt loop or two, even if it's a bit unfamiliar at first. The 300kg I'm on about is the drop from my beloved 350Z, which the BRZ replaces (will replace when it sells), which I've looked after for the last 4 years (build thread here if you fancy having a look at that sort of thing. I hope it's ok to post a photo of it mods?

 
But enough of the past, onto the present. My new love is a 2013 SE LUX in, frankly perfect, WR Mica Blue. It has 38k on the clock, a couple of former owners and is totally OEM - so far as I can tell. The colour lured me to the BRZ, over the GT86, and I'm very pleased with the state of the paint, it looks superb in the sunlight and aside from a a couple of small door dings I'll need to sort, it seems spotless. I can already see this is going to be a car you need to look back at after you've parked up and wandered off.



 
I spent much time and money modding the Zed and I'm hoping that aside from a few minor adjustments (headunit, exhaust, brakes) I'll keep the BRZ pretty stock. It's a very nice place to be sat and it feels more nimble than I'm used to, so it's already well on it's way. That said, I do have some questions if you don't mind.
 - The headunit in the BRZ is a bit of a disappointment and I miss the reverse camera from my Zed, is it easy enough to replace the HU and wire in a camera? 
 - The brakes don't have the same bite as the ones I am used to (DBA T2 discs, DS2500 pads, SS lines), can anyone recommend a good fast road, street legal, pad I might upgrade to?
- I've noticed condensation in the passenger side light:

- Is this at all common and/or a cheap & easy fix?
 
Thanks for reading and I look forward to trying to make a contribution to the place. I'm off for a browse and then I suppose I should read the owners manual too
Stu

That saves me asking why I woke up to condensation in the rears yesterday!
Thanks 

Hello!
I've been lurking on AutoTrader for months waiting for an in budget, relatively nearby, BRZ to take for a drive and finally one popped up last week. This morning I went and picked it up and have spent most of today enjoying what it feels like to shed 300kg overnight. I can confirm, it feels good to drop a belt loop or two, even if it's a bit unfamiliar at first. The 300kg I'm on about is the drop from my beloved 350Z, which the BRZ replaces (will replace when it sells), which I've looked after for the last 4 years (build thread here if you fancy having a look at that sort of thing. I hope it's ok to post a photo of it mods?

 
But enough of the past, onto the present. My new love is a 2013 SE LUX in, frankly perfect, WR Mica Blue. It has 38k on the clock, a couple of former owners and is totally OEM - so far as I can tell. The colour lured me to the BRZ, over the GT86, and I'm very pleased with the state of the paint, it looks superb in the sunlight and aside from a a couple of small door dings I'll need to sort, it seems spotless. I can already see this is going to be a car you need to look back at after you've parked up and wandered off.



 
I spent much time and money modding the Zed and I'm hoping that aside from a few minor adjustments (headunit, exhaust, brakes) I'll keep the BRZ pretty stock. It's a very nice place to be sat and it feels more nimble than I'm used to, so it's already well on it's way. That said, I do have some questions if you don't mind.
 - The headunit in the BRZ is a bit of a disappointment and I miss the reverse camera from my Zed, is it easy enough to replace the HU and wire in a camera? 
 - The brakes don't have the same bite as the ones I am used to (DBA T2 discs, DS2500 pads, SS lines), can anyone recommend a good fast road, street legal, pad I might upgrade to?
- I've noticed condensation in the passenger side light:

- Is this at all common and/or a cheap & easy fix?
 
Thanks for reading and I look forward to trying to make a contribution to the place. I'm off for a browse and then I suppose I should read the owners manual too
Stu