Bfranklyn86 52 Report post Posted May 31, 2017 I keep using and abusing this community for advice.......but you've got yourself's to blame for having so much knowledge/experience. I am thinking about how to save a bit of weight on the FRONT end, as I'm soon to install a catback which will upset the weight balance even more than the supercharger already has. (Must be 60:40 on towards the front now) anyone got any experience with..... lightweight flywheel: 5kg Li battery: 10kg front bumper: ?kg An aftermarket manifold...... I'm looking to avoid this for noise reasons. cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rich196 103 Report post Posted May 31, 2017 11 minutes ago, Bfranklyn86 said: I keep using and abusing this community for advice.......but you've got yourself's to blame for having so much knowledge/experience. I am thinking about how to save a bit of weight on the FRONT end, as I'm soon to install a catback which will upset the weight balance even more than the supercharger already has. (Must be 60:40 on towards the front now) anyone got any experience with..... lightweight flywheel: 5kg Li battery: 10kg front bumper: ?kg An aftermarket manifold...... I'm looking to avoid this for noise reasons. cheers A decent Geo and corner weight setup will make a bigger difference. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanJ 374 Report post Posted May 31, 2017 When I corner weighted mine with the SC, HKS exhaust and ~1/2 a tank of fuel it was 1270kg 56:44. 1 Bfranklyn86 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ade 517 Report post Posted May 31, 2017 28 minutes ago, DanJ said: When I corner weighted mine with the SC, HKS exhaust and ~1/2 a tank of fuel it was 1270kg 56:44. Interesting Mine was 1255kg with SC, Cosworth cat back, ~1/2 tank and Coilovers - still stock wheels at the point. I suppose 15kg could be different fuel levels. The coilovers saved a couple kg I think Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanJ 374 Report post Posted May 31, 2017 Fuel level and the spacesaver spare in the boot probably. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bfranklyn86 52 Report post Posted May 31, 2017 I guess the harrop is also a slightly bigger unit than the cosy. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ade 517 Report post Posted May 31, 2017 6 minutes ago, DanJ said: Fuel level and the spacesaver spare in the boot probably. Ah I dont have a spacesaver. Though the audio gear will have added 15kg now. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanJ 374 Report post Posted May 31, 2017 3 minutes ago, Bfranklyn86 said: I guess the harrop is also a slightly bigger unit than the cosy. Yeah, I'd have thought there's a few kgs max difference between them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ade 517 Report post Posted May 31, 2017 1 minute ago, Bfranklyn86 said: I guess the harrop is also a slightly bigger unit than the cosy. The SC is slightly smaller but Harrop design their own SC housing so it is very compact. Looking at the two I would say the Cosworth kit is probably heavier. How much water does the harrop need? its about 5litres in mine. Using Dans numbers 56% of 1270kg is 711kg Mine was 723kg over the front. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanJ 374 Report post Posted May 31, 2017 2.5 litres of coolant in the Harrop so that's ~2.5kg difference there. 1 Ade reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bfranklyn86 52 Report post Posted June 6, 2017 Well it sounds like it the weight distribution isn't too badly affected by the harrop. But there will also be an oil cooler (+5kg) going on the front too at some stage. Anyone considered mounting the battery in the boot for weight distribution, like BMW do? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bfranklyn86 52 Report post Posted September 1, 2017 Just a quick update.......... I had the HKS track spec oil cooler fitted. It did a fantastic job of keeping temps down when I was at bedford last month. Thanks to Scott and @Mark@Abbey M/Sfor sorting that. IIRC around 105c was the highest I saw on track. Because of this, maybe I won't need to ceramic coat any after market manifold I get...... I am considering a manifold more strongly now @DanJ has had issues with his manifold. I'd use the stock catback to keep things quiet. As usual with me, I need some advice from you lot! 1) Can anyone recommend a good YouTube video, or technique for me to learn heel toe. Literally can't do it and really want to learn. 2) How do I know when brake pads are wearing thin? There's a bit of carbon build up in the groves on my front AP racing disks now (there always is with the stoptech rears, but this is new for the front) Cheers! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
HariboPenguin 116 Report post Posted September 1, 2017 58 minutes ago, Bfranklyn86 said: 1) Can anyone recommend a good YouTube video, or technique for me to learn heel toe. Literally can't do it and really want to learn. This is a pretty decent one and it's shown in our car too so might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3Qj1YZAebY He uses a similar technique to what I do and sort of rolls the edge of his foot onto the gas pedal rather than swiveling your heel onto it. Some people may say it's cheating but I've found that this way works a bit better for me on the road and achieves the same result. When I'm on track and have my race boots on though I have to swivel my foot as they are so thin I can't reach the gas pedal just by rolling my foot. The way I learned was mastering just rev-matching first and getting that near perfect and then moved on to heel and toe afterwards. It's one of those things where practice makes perfect, when I was learning it I ended up doing quite a few accidental emergency stops from pressing the brake to hard trying to do it. It's also much easier to do when you are on track as you are using 90+% of your brakes anwyays so if you press on a bit too hard it won't be as noticeable compared to slow speeds on the road where you are only using about 20% of the brakes for example. 1 Cerastes reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ade 517 Report post Posted September 1, 2017 2 hours ago, Bfranklyn86 said: Just a quick update.......... I had the HKS track spec oil cooler fitted. It did a fantastic job of keeping temps down when I was at bedford last month. Thanks to Scott and @Mark@Abbey M/Sfor sorting that. IIRC around 105c was the highest I saw on track. Because of this, maybe I won't need to ceramic coat any after market manifold I get...... I am considering a manifold more strongly now @DanJ has had issues with his manifold. I'd use the stock catback to keep things quiet. As usual with me, I need some advice from you lot! 1) Can anyone recommend a good YouTube video, or technique for me to learn heel toe. Literally can't do it and really want to learn. 2) How do I know when brake pads are wearing thin? There's a bit of carbon build up in the groves on my front AP racing disks now (there always is with the stoptech rears, but this is new for the front) Cheers! 1) Practice! What is it you are struggling with? I ahve a wide foot so often dont use my heel to blip, rather the right side of my foot while braking 2) take a wheel off and have a look. I'd expect your pads to last at least 4 trackdays Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deacon 1357 Report post Posted September 1, 2017 3 hours ago, Bfranklyn86 said: Just a quick update.......... I had the HKS track spec oil cooler fitted. It did a fantastic job of keeping temps down when I was at bedford last month. Thanks to Scott and @Mark@Abbey M/Sfor sorting that. IIRC around 105c was the highest I saw on track. How are you measuring the temp? That seems quite low. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanJ 374 Report post Posted September 2, 2017 @Bfranklyn86 having seen the amount of wadding and heat shielding on the OEM manifold and overpipe I think ceramic coating the parts is a good idea regardless of whether you have an oil cooler or not. There's already a load of extra heat going in to the engine bay from the SC radiator and the SC itself so I'd do everything possible to keep engine bay temps down. I use the right side of my foot for heel and toe in these cars, I have to sit too close to the pedals to get the steering reach I like to be able to rotate my foot round easily. I totally agree on the practice front, I started doing it on the road first until it became second nature to do it on every downshift, but it does take a little time to get used to. 1 Ade reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bfranklyn86 52 Report post Posted September 2, 2017 On 01/09/2017 at 0:48 PM, HariboPenguin said: This is a pretty decent one and it's shown in our car too so might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3Qj1YZAebY He uses a similar technique to what I do and sort of rolls the edge of his foot onto the gas pedal rather than swiveling your heel onto it. Thanks for the video. This is what I've been doing wrong - trying to swivel the heel rather than rolling the foot. Will try that next time. 1 HariboPenguin reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bfranklyn86 52 Report post Posted September 2, 2017 22 hours ago, Ade said: 2) take a wheel off and have a look. I'd expect your pads to last at least 4 trackdays What should I be looking for after I take the wheel off? Or is it just obvious when they've had enough punishment? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bfranklyn86 52 Report post Posted September 2, 2017 2 hours ago, DanJ said: @Bfranklyn86 having seen the amount of wadding and heat shielding on the OEM manifold and overpipe I think ceramic coating the parts is a good idea regardless of whether you have an oil cooler or not. There's already a load of extra heat going in to the engine bay from the SC radiator and the SC itself so I'd do everything possible to keep engine bay temps down. I use the right side of my foot for heel and toe in these cars, I have to sit too close to the pedals to get the steering reach I like to be able to rotate my foot round easily. I totally agree on the practice front, I started doing it on the road first until it became second nature to do it on every downshift, but it does take a little time to get used to. I see what you are saying, but I thought that leaving it un-coated might be a cheeky way of getting the oil to warm up quicker in the winter (it's my daily). I also saw that some had figment issues after ceramic coating too. On balance, I'll probably get it coated. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tareim 343 Report post Posted September 2, 2017 1 hour ago, Bfranklyn86 said: I also saw that some had figment issues after ceramic coating too. On balance, I'll probably get it coated. nah, it was just their imaginations... 2 Bfranklyn86 and Nicebiscuit reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted September 3, 2017 On 01/09/2017 at 11:22 AM, Bfranklyn86 said: J 1) Can anyone recommend a good YouTube video, or technique for me to learn heel toe. Literally can't do it and really want to learn. Cheers! If it's any help, not a video but I wrote this back in 2003: http://www.mr2.net/trackdayqueen/heelandtoe.htm Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bfranklyn86 52 Report post Posted September 4, 2017 On 01/09/2017 at 2:44 PM, Deacon said: How are you measuring the temp? That seems quite low. I was using the torque App for android. The same method was showing me mid to high 120s at warmer track days earlier in the summer (before the oil cooler) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ade 517 Report post Posted September 6, 2017 On 01/09/2017 at 2:44 PM, Deacon said: How are you measuring the temp? That seems quite low. I was using the torque App for android. The same method was showing me mid to high 120s at warmer track days earlier in the summer (before the oil cooler) You must be easy on the car then. I had no problem in a bone stock car getting oil north of 135C in summer months. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bfranklyn86 52 Report post Posted September 6, 2017 4 hours ago, Ade said: You must be easy on the car then. I had no problem in a bone stock car getting oil north of 135C in summer months. Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk I just kept my sessions really short (like 5 laps) and made sure the bonnet was open in between. 1 Ade reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites