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Bfranklyn86

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I keep using and abusing this community for advice.......but you've got yourself's to blame for having so much knowledge/experience.

I am thinking about how to save a bit of weight on the FRONT end, as I'm soon to install a catback which will upset the weight balance even more than the supercharger already has. (Must be 60:40 on towards the front now)

anyone got any experience with.....

lightweight flywheel: 5kg

Li battery: 10kg

front bumper: ?kg

An aftermarket manifold...... I'm looking to avoid this for noise reasons.

cheers 

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11 minutes ago, Bfranklyn86 said:

I keep using and abusing this community for advice.......but you've got yourself's to blame for having so much knowledge/experience.

I am thinking about how to save a bit of weight on the FRONT end, as I'm soon to install a catback which will upset the weight balance even more than the supercharger already has. (Must be 60:40 on towards the front now)

anyone got any experience with.....

lightweight flywheel: 5kg

Li battery: 10kg

front bumper: ?kg

An aftermarket manifold...... I'm looking to avoid this for noise reasons.

cheers 

 

A decent Geo and corner weight setup will make a bigger difference.

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28 minutes ago, DanJ said:

When I corner weighted mine with the SC, HKS exhaust and ~1/2 a tank of fuel it was 1270kg 56:44.

Interesting

Mine was 1255kg with SC, Cosworth cat back, ~1/2 tank and Coilovers - still stock wheels at the point.

20160213_130806_zps7rcxogmk.jpg

I suppose 15kg could be different fuel levels. The coilovers saved a couple kg I think

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3 minutes ago, Bfranklyn86 said:

I guess the harrop is also a slightly bigger unit than the cosy.

Yeah, I'd have  thought there's a few kgs max difference between them.

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1 minute ago, Bfranklyn86 said:

I guess the harrop is also a slightly bigger unit than the cosy.

The SC is slightly smaller but Harrop design their own SC housing so it is very compact. Looking at the two I would say the Cosworth kit is probably heavier. How much water does the harrop need? its about 5litres in mine. 

Using Dans numbers 56% of 1270kg is 711kg

Mine was 723kg over the front. 

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Well it sounds like it the weight distribution isn't too badly affected by the harrop. But there will also be an oil cooler (+5kg) going on the front too at some stage.

Anyone considered mounting the battery in the boot for weight distribution, like BMW do?

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Just a quick update.......... 

I had the HKS track spec oil cooler fitted. It did a fantastic job of keeping temps down when I was at bedford last month.  Thanks to Scott and @Mark@Abbey M/Sfor sorting that.

IIRC around 105c was the highest I saw on track.

Because of this, maybe I won't need to ceramic coat any after market manifold I get...... I am considering a manifold more strongly now @DanJ has had issues with his manifold. I'd use the stock catback to keep things quiet.

As usual with me, I need some advice from you lot! 

1) Can anyone recommend a good YouTube video, or technique for me to learn heel toe. Literally can't do it and really want to learn.

2) How do I know when brake pads are wearing thin? There's a bit of carbon build up in the groves on my front AP racing disks now (there always is with the stoptech rears, but this is new for the front)

Cheers!

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58 minutes ago, Bfranklyn86 said:

1) Can anyone recommend a good YouTube video, or technique for me to learn heel toe. Literally can't do it and really want to learn.

This is a pretty decent one and it's shown in our car too so might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3Qj1YZAebY

He uses a similar technique to what I do and sort of rolls the edge of his foot onto the gas pedal rather than swiveling your heel onto it. Some people may say it's cheating but I've found that this way works a bit better for me on the road and achieves the same result. When I'm on track and have my race boots on though I have to swivel my foot as they are so thin I can't reach the gas pedal just by rolling my foot.

The way I learned was mastering just rev-matching first and getting that near perfect and then moved on to heel and toe afterwards.

It's one of those things where practice makes perfect, when I was learning it I ended up doing quite a few accidental emergency stops from pressing the brake to hard trying to do it. :lol: It's also much easier to do when you are on track as you are using 90+% of your brakes anwyays so if you press on a bit too hard it won't be as noticeable compared to slow speeds on the road where you are only using about 20% of the brakes for example.

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2 hours ago, Bfranklyn86 said:

Just a quick update.......... 

I had the HKS track spec oil cooler fitted. It did a fantastic job of keeping temps down when I was at bedford last month.  Thanks to Scott and @Mark@Abbey M/Sfor sorting that.

IIRC around 105c was the highest I saw on track.

Because of this, maybe I won't need to ceramic coat any after market manifold I get...... I am considering a manifold more strongly now @DanJ has had issues with his manifold. I'd use the stock catback to keep things quiet.

As usual with me, I need some advice from you lot! 

1) Can anyone recommend a good YouTube video, or technique for me to learn heel toe. Literally can't do it and really want to learn.

2) How do I know when brake pads are wearing thin? There's a bit of carbon build up in the groves on my front AP racing disks now (there always is with the stoptech rears, but this is new for the front)

Cheers!

1) Practice! What is it you are struggling with? I ahve a wide foot so often dont use my heel to blip, rather the right side of my foot while braking

2) take a wheel off and have a look. I'd expect your pads to last at least 4 trackdays 

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3 hours ago, Bfranklyn86 said:

Just a quick update.......... 

I had the HKS track spec oil cooler fitted. It did a fantastic job of keeping temps down when I was at bedford last month.  Thanks to Scott and @Mark@Abbey M/Sfor sorting that.

IIRC around 105c was the highest I saw on track.

How are you measuring the temp? That seems quite low.

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@Bfranklyn86 having seen the amount of wadding and heat shielding on the OEM manifold and overpipe I think ceramic coating the parts is a good idea regardless of whether you have an oil cooler or not. There's already a load of extra heat going in to the engine bay from the SC radiator and the SC itself so I'd do everything possible to keep engine bay temps down.

I use the right side of my foot for heel and toe in these cars, I have to sit too close to the pedals to get the steering reach I like to be able to rotate my foot round easily.

I totally agree on the practice front, I started doing it on the road first until it became second nature to do it on every downshift, but it does take a little time to get used to.

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On 01/09/2017 at 0:48 PM, HariboPenguin said:

This is a pretty decent one and it's shown in our car too so might help: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=O3Qj1YZAebY

He uses a similar technique to what I do and sort of rolls the edge of his foot onto the gas pedal rather than swiveling your heel onto it. 

Thanks for the video. This is what I've been doing wrong - trying to swivel the heel rather than rolling the foot. Will try that next time.

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22 hours ago, Ade said:

 

2) take a wheel off and have a look. I'd expect your pads to last at least 4 trackdays 

What should I be looking for after I take the wheel off? Or is it just obvious when they've had enough punishment?

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2 hours ago, DanJ said:

@Bfranklyn86 having seen the amount of wadding and heat shielding on the OEM manifold and overpipe I think ceramic coating the parts is a good idea regardless of whether you have an oil cooler or not. There's already a load of extra heat going in to the engine bay from the SC radiator and the SC itself so I'd do everything possible to keep engine bay temps down.

I use the right side of my foot for heel and toe in these cars, I have to sit too close to the pedals to get the steering reach I like to be able to rotate my foot round easily.

I totally agree on the practice front, I started doing it on the road first until it became second nature to do it on every downshift, but it does take a little time to get used to.

I see what you are saying, but I thought that leaving it un-coated might be a cheeky way of getting the oil to warm up quicker in the winter (it's my daily).

I also saw that some had figment issues after ceramic coating too. 

On balance, I'll probably get it coated.

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On 01/09/2017 at 11:22 AM, Bfranklyn86 said:

J

1) Can anyone recommend a good YouTube video, or technique for me to learn heel toe. Literally can't do it and really want to learn.

 

Cheers!

If it's any help, not a video but I wrote this back in 2003: 

http://www.mr2.net/trackdayqueen/heelandtoe.htm

 

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On 01/09/2017 at 2:44 PM, Deacon said:

How are you measuring the temp? That seems quite low.

I was using the torque App for android. The same method was showing me mid to high 120s at warmer track days earlier in the summer (before the oil cooler)

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On 01/09/2017 at 2:44 PM, Deacon said: How are you measuring the temp? That seems quite low.

I was using the torque App for android. The same method was showing me mid to high 120s at warmer track days earlier in the summer (before the oil cooler)

You must be easy on the car then. I had no problem in a bone stock car getting oil north of 135C in summer months.

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

 

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4 hours ago, Ade said:

You must be easy on the car then. I had no problem in a bone stock car getting oil north of 135C in summer months.

 

Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk

 

 

I just kept my sessions really short (like 5 laps) and made sure the bonnet was open in between. 

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