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rob275

Winter tyres

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Funny that they did the test at Nokians proving ground in Finland and guess what came first ? :D

 

It mentions that they also took a set of summer tyres "We also used our test-winning summer tyre in this size as a comparison to see the advantage winter rubber has in slippery conditions." but I can't find any comparison to the summer rubber in the article?

Anyone find it ?
 
Alec

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Well having woken up to see frost outside this morning I switched my wheels at lunchtime while it was dry. Took the opportunity to rotate them, so back left now front right etc.

 

Measured the tread depth and there's 5 mm on the front and about 7 on the rears now (cause of the swap) so this second winter will probably see them off.

 

Not really worried though as getting 2 winters out of a set works out at £150 a winter, they went on at 4750 and came off at about 10k, so 5250 miles (including a day on track at Blyton on Feb14th) seems to have half used them, so you might get 12,000 out of a set with more careful treatment, which if you don't do that many (less than 4000?) winter miles might mean you could get 3 winters out of them.

 

Need to get up the enthusiasm now to give the OEM alloys a good clean before I put them into their Blue Peter box of straw for their winter hibernation along with the tortoise :P  (and no I don't actually have a Freda)

 

Alec

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Isn't it a better idea to have more tread on the front wheels than the rear?  I know the rear drives the car but when it comes to steering and braking, its all about the fronts right?

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Isn't it a better idea to have more tread on the front wheels than the rear? I know the rear drives the car but when it comes to steering and braking, its all about the fronts right?

No, because understeer is safer than oversteer and trying to avoid whatever you're about to hit is better than just jamming the brakes on and hoping to stop in time

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I can understand that understeering is easier to control  but if you're trying to avoid something, surely you'd want the grip at the front to actually manoeuvre around something, rather than being unable to steer out the way due to understeering?

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I'd always prefer steering control to rear traction. You've got half a chance if you've got any understanding of car control. For most commuters, understeer's probably a better bet as you don't want them spinning off all the time. Very often if it all starts to go wrong a bit of understeer will just scrub the speed off and grip will come back to them without any realisation of what's just happened.

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I can understand that understeering is easier to control  but if you're trying to avoid something, surely you'd want the grip at the front to actually manoeuvre around something, rather than being unable to steer out the way due to understeering?

Yes, to a certain extent, but, if you're on the brakes and swing the steering violently to avoid something and the loaded front bites hard, the unloaded rear doesn't and you spin you have no further options other than hoping the impact doesn't hurt too much...!

 

I'd always prefer steering control to rear traction. You've got half a chance if you've got any understanding of car control. For most commuters, understeer's probably a better bet as you don't want them spinning off all the time. Very often if it all starts to go wrong a bit of understeer will just scrub the speed off and grip will come back to them without any realisation of what's just happened.

And this is also correct, if you know what you're doing you have more of a chance to do the right thing - i.e. not making massive panic inputs to steering and brakes... However, the majority of people will do the wrong thing (unintentionally, because they either panic or actually don't know what the right thing to do is...) and end up in trouble, hence why all modern cars are set to understeer by default - you can largely drive around understeer but it requires a lot more skill to drive a car that naturally oversteers without any deliberate provocation... 

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Right cleaned my OEMs at lunchtime and when I went to get my one wash bucket, I found where I had put my centre cap stickers (took the wash bucket to JAE, didn't use it, put stickers in it in the boot, haven't washed the car since :) )

 

So as I was cleaning the wheels, popped the centre caps out and put on my 86 stickers I got from Pascal in Holland, ready to go back in next Spring.

 

Posted Image

 

I think they are actually black and silver so will match the car. I bought some black and red ones as well, in case I wanted a contrasting colour but decided these would look better

 

 

... and before all you BRZers start up yes I do know they have Subaru on the back !

 

Alec

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Yeah, I too was looking at the Nokian stuff, Auto Express rate them while other sites don't really rate them as highly.....plus the ones I've found where the A3 ones, not D3....not 100% sure what the difference is but the A3 are more performance so better in the dry I think......but looks like I won't be needing winter tyres as I can nab my sister's Honda Jazz when it's bad as she's shooting off to Austria for Ski season......I hope anyways.....otherwise I'll borrow one of my cousin's cars  :D

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Just found this vid we took of Ross (forpster) in his RX-8 in the snow in the car-park at work in 2010 (My old T-Sport bottom of screen at the beginning)

 

Ok he was playing to the crowd a bit, but this can happen to you as well without the right tyres,

 

do you want to look like a pillock and have to drive like a granny?

 

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They'll be a bit bigger, see http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=225&aspect=45&diameter=17&wheelwidth=7&offset=42&width2=225&aspect2=50&diameter2=17&wheelwidth2=7&offset2=42#content

 

So at 30mph your speedo will read a bit low (28.97mph), but you already are a bit low and compared to OEM

 

http://www.willtheyfit.com/index.php?width=215&aspect=45&diameter=17&wheelwidth=7&offset=42&width2=225&aspect2=50&diameter2=17&wheelwidth2=7&offset2=42#content

 

so at a real 30 you will see 28.56 on the speedo, but as speedos in this country tend to read high you will probably be about right, best way to check is to use a GPS reading from a TomTom or your phone 

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I'd recommend the Nokian A3's over the D3's - they're the higher performance tyre.

I thought the tread pattern on the D3 looked better suited to slush & snow, I'm about to commit to buying a set of these this week, it was either these or GY Ultragrip 8/Ice+. Not much in it in terms of price. Hmmmm :mellow:

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I thought the tread pattern on the D3 looked better suited to slush & snow, I'm about to commit to buying a set of these this week, it was either these or GY Ultragrip 8/Ice+. Not much in it in terms of price. Hmmmm :mellow:

 

Interesting I've gone for the GY Ultragrip 8. Me and Deacon can do a comparison after I have mine fitted tomorrow.

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I thought the tread pattern on the D3 looked better suited to slush & snow, I'm about to commit to buying a set of these this week, it was either these or GY Ultragrip 8/Ice+. Not much in it in terms of price. Hmmmm :mellow:

If you have a look on tyre reviews (http://www.tyrereviews.co.uk/Tyre/Nokian/) they class the d3 as high performance and the a3 as ultra high performance which is also what the Nokian site seems to suggest. I ran the a3's on my scirocco and they were awesome. When we had lots of snow last year I went to a local pub car park with about a foot of untouched snow purposely to see what they could do. No matter how hard I tried I couldn't get the car stuck! That was front wheel drive I know but if they could deal with a foot of snow and not get stuck I figure they should be good enough to keep me going in the '86 through the winter!

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