Jump to content
VAD17

Brakes seized?

Recommended Posts

I think it was due to pads and discs rusting. Hope you get it back soon, although I wouldn't be confident that you will get away with not having the discs skimmed that pads really do eat into the disc.
Do you leave the car stood for a long time?
Not really, 4 days
To be honest the rain was really bad and it was after a track day Sunday after last, so some rust and a bit of sticking wouldn't be unexpected (happened before).
I like DS2500 more than previous pads (various colours of ECB), and inspecting disks with a finger touch (not scientific but last time when i had a slight lip on the disks - after about 11-12k miles and 15odd track days - I could feel it, although it only bothered me under heavy braking on track days, hence had to change).
Well, when pads arrive will take it up and down A3 to see how it goes, will start with gentle braking to clear disks and then heavy to bed pads and check if brakes work properly and ready for the next track day end of Feb

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
In hindsight, probably better if you couldn't free it by lighting up the rears which is harder in an auto, then worth getting something beefy to tow you for a bit to free it off if it happens again. A really wet day after you parked up would stick the pads to the disc. Thing is with a manual, you can be a  lot more brutal, which is sometimes what you need. 
DS2500's are not hard on discs, so don't see why you'd need them skimmed. Just a bit of heavy braking will clean them up. I admit, I just change pads and discs together as they seem to last about the same. My DS2500's still have plenty on them after 40K miles. Discs are okay too. Reckon they'll need changing at around 50K miles.
Yes, but you don't use brakes on track , or just a bit...

I am surprised your pads last that long. May be DS2500 would, I didn't get a chance with this set. May be will be more lucky with next set.


Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
49 minutes ago, VAD17 said:

Yes, but you don't use brakes on track emoji854.png, or just a bit...

I am surprised your pads last that long. May be DS2500 would, I didn't get a chance with this set. May be will be more lucky with next set.


Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
 

I think that's the advantage of a BBK. Mind you I would get 35K+ miles out of stock pads/set up. This has been consistent throughout my time with the car. I do use my brakes on track, but far less so on the road, where I don't brake unnecessarily. 👍

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, VAD17 said:

Yes, but you don't use brakes on track emoji854.png, or just a bit...

I am surprised your pads last that long. May be DS2500 would, I didn't get a chance with this set. May be will be more lucky with next set.


Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
 

Also @VAD17 a whole days sprinting is only 8 laps iirc so only about the equivalent of 4 laps of Bedford max. From when I've been there with you you're probably doing best part of a sprint seasons worth of laps in one day.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

With respect to freeing stuck brakes, I rode in a LR Discovery shell with seized wheels. We took the pads out and it still wouldn't budge so we towed it down the road to try to free the hubs with me straddling the transmission brake. Three went fairly quickly and rolled, but we went a good 50 metres before the last wheel found a drain cover and finally gripped hard enough to break loose.

In other words, it can take serious effort to free up a wheel, as you are limited by tyre grip. If the tow-truck dragging it onto the trailer didn't do it, then disassembly seems a necessary step.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok, car is back

Just took it round the area and to the gas station. Disks have cleared and brakes seem to work ok. Parked and hopefully brakes will not seize overnight/

Need to take the car up and down the A3 over the weekend to test brakes properly an bed the new brake pads.

Will probably take it to Carson Performance (luckily they are close to Guildford where I go every week) to check as well.

Question for knowledgeable members - I have ordered Ferodo FRP 3077H but received FRP 3076H. They both fit KSports Calipers (AP size 5070/ CP5575) but FRP 3076H have radial depth 50mm instead of 54mm for FRP 3076H.

How important is this, particularly considering occasional track day use?

Reading Essex blog it seems the upswept part of the risk can cause temperature gradient (assume this means inside part of the disk will be cooler as there would be no pad touching it) and potentially premature cracking of the desk.

 https://www.essexparts.com/news-blog/track-and-racing-brake-pad-owners-guide

As I had to use the pads the only option I have now is the 50% refund (which for Ferodo DS 2500 is ~ 40% of the new disks price). I have purchased 2 sets (to have an extra replacement set just in case), so discount is worth almost new disks.

So my dilemma is:

- keep both sets (don't expect disks to last more than 2 new sets if nothing else happens with the disks); or

- exchange 1 to FRP 3077H and keep the other - and either use it, (but I guess changing to FRP 3077H would not be an option due to even disk wear, so the disk life may be limited to the life of pads or cracking, whichever happens first) or change them to new set as soon as they arrive.

Hmmm?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@VAD17 someone asked a similar question on an M3 forum, one of the guys from Essex replied - screenshot below.

Not entirely sure what I'd do in that situation, based on the below you should be fine to run the smaller pad until the disc's die. Maybe return the brand new set and get some in the correct size, then swap these with the used small set and keep them incase of emergency/or ebay them.

pads.jpg.16ef31e1e7ff8ae5b189e20f68b42fd7.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe try some bilthamber atom mac next time you suspect that they may stick. Detailer use it to prevent disk rusting after cleaning. When you park up, just liberally spray on the disk surface a caliper.

https://www.cleanandshiny.co.uk/products/bilt-hamber-atom-mac

Sent from my COL-L29 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Maybe try some bilthamber atom mac next time you suspect that they may stick. Detailer use it to prevent disk rusting after cleaning. When you park up, just liberally spray on the disk surface a caliper.

https://www.cleanandshiny.co.uk/products/bilt-hamber-atom-mac

Sent from my COL-L29 using Tapatalk


Thanks, worth a try
Assume you use it after cleaning and drying up the wheels?

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Thanks, worth a try
Assume you use it after cleaning and drying up the wheels?

Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

Yes, although I'd spray it on as soon as possible so even straight after you wash before you dry

Sent from my COL-L29 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
That looks like a cool product [mention=2794]sam534[/mention], wish I know about it a week ago before I did a big car cleaning supplies restock. 
It's not been around long, but comes recommended from various detailers.

Sent from my COL-L29 using Tapatalk

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×