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JamesP1991

My Silver Project 86

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As you will not have a boost sensor would have to use calculated boost, not sure if it will work though on aftermarket forced induction

Will be replacing battery with AFR values

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www.im-tuned.uk

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Thank you Steve I'd like to not stare at Citroen logos all day!

 

What I will do is have a look and then give you the exact name, where do I buy the extended PID pack and how much is it? 

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I have managed to buy the Toyota additional parameters now. Works out at £7.99.

I have changed the Citroen one. It is called "GT86 Racing"

Future updates will be on my dedicated post. Sorry for thread crapping :)

_____________________________________

www.im-tuned.uk

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Took my first couple of victims over the past week. 

 

A 12 plate Leon Cupra R was up my bum leading on to a dual carriageway near my house, 2nd gear pull from 30 upwards through to 4th and I pulled on him consistently. With my custom map boost is now building from 2800-3000 onwards easily now, it is so much better. 

 

Then the other day, a Revo tuned silver Octavia VRS on an 07 was taken off the lights up to 4th gear. Started off behind him, then as we hit the top of 2nd/start of 3rd I pulled out into the lane next to us and made inroads as we got into 4th.The guy driving and passenger pulled up alongside me at the next roundabout and asked why the thing went like shit off a shovel.. all I did was raise my eyebrows and I said... boost... and rolled the window up and they just laughed! 

 

Can't wait until the engine is forged and I can start pushing it further. 

 

Brakes and tyres are next though and will be done within the next 1-2 months. Saving hard at the moment :)

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Loving it Steve. 

 

Had an issue this morning though. When the overpipe is getting hot and flexing a bit, it appears to be rubbing on the steering column above the front subframe. 

 

The turbo manifold is obviously a bit different to my UEL I had on, and I think the slight positioning change has led to the overpipe sitting slightly differently. Fine when cold, but when hot and after being put through some load, I get quite a loud vibration/knocking coming through into the cabin and It gets worse as I turn the steering wheel. 

 

Checked the bash plate under the car and there is enough clearance underneath the turbo manifold, so it can't be rubbing against that, so it must be the overpipe. Mine is wrapped in titanium heat wrap too which makes it a little bit wider than the stock one, so I am guessing the tight fit has contributed to it. 

 

Doesn't pose any problem to the car, but is hugely annoying so will be getting it sorted ASAP. 

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Perhaps a second pair of manifold gaskets would help?

 

Seen a couple of people at lunchtime today and they said I will have to change the overpipe to give me the room I need. Will probs go back to stock overpipe until I get a custom one made. It's the least effective part of the exhaust system any way. 

 

It appears under the heavier load now it is just flexing the pipe too much. 

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Seen a couple of people at lunchtime today and they said I will have to change the overpipe to give me the room I need. Will probs go back to stock overpipe until I get a custom one made. It's the least effective part of the exhaust system any way. 

 

It appears under the heavier load now it is just flexing the pipe too much. 

 

Getting one custom made won't be easy. The twists and dimensions are very difficult to replicate which is why such a small piece is typically quite expensive from the brand names

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I know, there is a slight wear mark on the steering column on the left hand side of the overpipe so it looks like I will just have to swap to the stock before Japfest 2. 

 

The stock one has a slight indent in it any way to allow for extra clearance. 

 

Might have to upgrade the engine mounts too perhaps to stop flex????????

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I know, there is a slight wear mark on the steering column on the left hand side of the overpipe so it looks like I will just have to swap to the stock before Japfest 2. 

 

The stock one has a slight indent in it any way to allow for extra clearance. 

 

Might have to upgrade the engine mounts too perhaps to stop flex????????

 

Always a good mod anyway. I got the STi ones

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Turbo blanket for the 20G turbo will be on order next month, I am also contemplating upgrading the actuator and MAF pipe before I up the boost to 10 PSI at the start of next year and reach 300whp, but it is not necessary (just gives me more headroom for bigger numbers).  

 

post-1091-0-70555700-1441708886_thumb.jp

 

However guys I need some advice. 

 

Now the power is all sorted, I need some help in regards to brakes and tyres. Seeing as I have near death experiences any time any precipitation falls on the road, I thought tyres and then brakes would be a good idea to do now, however fun it is. 

 

My initial thoughts were advan V105's, 225 section which should fit my 17x8's fairly nicely. However are 225's enough running a turbocharged setup? Any other tyres like Conti Sport 5's that are worth a mention? This will be a road car for the rest of the year with the aim of taking it on the track next year once it reaches a point that I am happy with it chassis/brakes/tyres wise. 

 

In regards to brakes, I was thinking just upgraded pads and new fluid for the time being, as I thought bigger discs would be kind of unnecessary on the road for the time being (can upgrade them later on next year before hitting the track).

 

Does anyone have any feedback on this thought process, and what pads/fluid and possible discs to go for? 

 

I keep changing my mind and running only the stock brakes I have no reference point, so any feedback for those who have done the same I would really appreciate it. 

 

Cheers everyone.

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