Ade 517 Report post Posted June 25, 2015 Dave its going to be amazing when its all done! May I ask, who is making your bells and brackets for the Discs and Calipers? 1 Pitman reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Riceburner 284 Report post Posted June 25, 2015 Looking Good Dave B) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Nicebiscuit 655 Report post Posted June 25, 2015 This is awesome. Whilst I love the works colour scheme, for maximum effect you should paint it beige, put it on steel wheels with only three wheel trims and put a tartan picnic blanket on the parcel shelf... 2 Pitman and chillismoke reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chillismoke 182 Report post Posted June 25, 2015 Is a 3" exhaust really the right choice? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pitman 188 Report post Posted June 25, 2015 Dave its going to be amazing when its all done! May I ask, who is making your bells and brackets for the Discs and Calipers? Thank you :-) I am having the bells and brackets made by Reyland Motorsport in Birmingham: http://www.reyland.co.uk/custom-brake-kits/ 1 Ade reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pitman 188 Report post Posted June 25, 2015 Looking Good Dave B) Thank you, Rich. I am busy compiling a bit shopping list for you - the bearings and oilseals for the gearbox as we discussed the other day, as well as various fasteners for putting the whole thing back together again Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pitman 188 Report post Posted June 25, 2015 Is a 3" exhaust really the right choice? Nor sure what you mean? With a turbo engine, the best exhaust post the turbo is no exhaust. That being the case, within reason, the bigger the better . When the exhaust on my GT86 was changed from 2.5" to 3" and Adrian remapped it I got an extra 15 bhp. The engine is being rebuilt to a full race spec, with JUN cams, Forged low compression CP pistons, forged Crowler rods, ARP head and main bearing studs, Crowler valve springs complete with titanium retainers etc. Custom spec'ed Garrett GTR ball bearing turbo with uprated bearings, heatshield and billet compressor wheel So it will be a high RPM screamer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ade 517 Report post Posted June 25, 2015 You cant go wrong with Reyland mate Do they have all the measurements or have you sent them a hub? I'll be interested how you get on with the Wilwoods as I have very little experience with them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pitman 188 Report post Posted June 25, 2015 You cant go wrong with Reyland mate Do they have all the measurements or have you sent them a hub? I'll be interested how you get on with the Wilwoods as I have very little experience with them. Reyland do have the right reputation and credentials for me They have been supplied with an upright, hub, caliper and wheel rim. That way, I am covered if there is a fitment issue . I got the discs through them, and what I liked about their service, they would not just accept my spec, but wanted to know what calipers and pads I would be using, to ensure that there was sufficient depth for them. In order to minimise the unsprung weight, whilst still going for a decent diameter, I an using an 8" pcd bell. I will also be fitting (proper) ducted cooling for the discs. As far as the Wilwood calipers go, it tool a lot of research and investigation before I decided to go with them. I have never been a great fan of Wilwood calipers, very much lumping hem with the cheap Taiwanese calipers favoured by the Saxo and Corsa crowd . The ones I have gone with seam to be in a totally different league, though, being made from forged billets rather than just being cast. If they don't work out, I will replace them with AP Racing CP5219s Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ade 517 Report post Posted June 25, 2015 Have you ever tried Reyland discs? I wonder how they compare to the AP equivalent? Generally they are £200 or so cheaper for a 330mm disc! If you believe the AP blurb, the sinusoidal cooling fins have a significant effect on cooling performance though.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pitman 188 Report post Posted June 25, 2015 Reyland claim their disc's are direct replacements for AP, I am not sure though if they make them in the size I was after. Once the car is finished and on the road (track?) I may do a back to back trial. I work within easy hearing distance of Donington Park, so will have to do at least one test / track day there when I am setting the car up Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ade 517 Report post Posted June 25, 2015 They are probably be just as good as the AP for general track days (short non competitive sessions) and road. Probably not as good if they are on the ragged edge being used with Race pads up to 1200C though...... but who knows. They could be plain ap discs that Reyland machine themselves. They seem to offer the J hook (thought that was an AP Patent?) on their discs too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pitman 188 Report post Posted July 1, 2015 I spent the whole of last Saturday getting the roll cage properly in place and lining up the 4 parts it comes in (front, rear and the two door bars - what a mission Then Sunday was spent starting to weld it all together, and to the car. My resident welder has gone on strike, so I am having to do the welding myself I guess that only about half of the joints are fully welded as supplied, so I have a LOT more welding to this coming weekend . I have taken a weeks holiday from work the second week in July, so hopefully by the end of my week off, I will have been able to have finished the interior of the car, including the painting of it. Then the fun bit can begin of putting all the nice race / refurbished bits in / on the car 1 Ade reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted July 1, 2015 Looks great Dave. If I can offer a little advice, you need to tack everything together, then unbolt the feet to ensure you're not pulling the shell out of shape. Once you know you're all ok you can tack it some more then fully weld it. If you pile straight in with the welding, you'll probably pull the shell out of shape. BTW. Your torque plate is done apparently?? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pitman 188 Report post Posted July 2, 2015 Looks great Dave. If I can offer a little advice, you need to tack everything together, then unbolt the feet to ensure you're not pulling the shell out of shape. Once you know you're all ok you can tack it some more then fully weld it. If you pile straight in with the welding, you'll probably pull the shell out of shape. BTW. Your torque plate is done apparently?? Thank you, Nige - any and all advice is greatly accepted :-) I did exactly that. Also, I made sure that the doors and tailgate alignment, gaps and closing effort did not change in any way - a good test to ensure that the shell is not twisted in any way. Good news about my torque plate - I emailed Aaron last Monday to ask if there was any progress - I have not got any reply yet :-( 1 Ade reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted July 2, 2015 He's busy making my turrets at the moment. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pitman 188 Report post Posted July 20, 2015 Progress is slowly being made on the build I have finally removed all the excess seam sealer from inside the shell, as well as temporally fitting the steering column, brake and pedal box and gear shift so that I could finalise the seat position, and fit the seat mounts. I started by having the seat virtually on the floor, but it was impossible to see out of the car . With a lot of packing up of the seat a bit at a time, I believe I have now found the best position. The seat can now come out again, and I can weld in the seat mounting rails and brackets. I have also got my custom brake disc bells and caliper mounting brackets back from Reyland Motorsport, so can finalise the front suspension, including my fully adjustable lower 'wishbones' To be continued ......................................... 3 Keethos, Tweedbean and Mark-in-Stoke reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mark-in-Stoke 488 Report post Posted July 20, 2015 Dave, Love the look of the brakes, how's everything else coming on? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LFA 68 Report post Posted July 20, 2015 Nice seats, wtf have you bolted them onto though When is the super capacitor going in.. 1 Sideways? reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted July 20, 2015 Looks great Dave!!May I ask, what joint have you used in the ends of the trailing arm on the front suspension? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pitman 188 Report post Posted July 20, 2015 Dave, Love the look of the brakes, how's everything else coming on? Thank you Mark, it is all progressing slowly - a LOT of work though for a one man show, especially when you have a 130 mile a day return daily commute to the day job :-) Nice seats, wtf have you bolted them onto though When is the super capacitor going in.. The seat is being bolted (via the OMP side mounts) to proper 1" CDS seat mounts, which are fitted through the side sill and transmission tunnel, as per Group 4 rally Escorts: http://www.motorsport-tools.com/weld-in-seat-mount-rail-kit-mounting-sub-frame-cds-rail-tubes-race-rally-car.html The tubes are perfectly straight, it is just my crappy camera that makes them look curved Super Capacitor is on back order Looks great Dave!! May I ask, what joint have you used in the ends of the trailing arm on the front suspension? Thanks, Nige In board or outboard for the joints? Inboard are High strength Aurora (5/8" shanks) - I took you advice after our chat when I collected the exhaust. Outboard is a spherical bearing, fitted in a housing that will be tig welded to the arm, and a reinforcement plate added (the housing is currently just tacked so I can sort the angles out) I am basically copying the RIX Engineering Escort WRC set up: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tareim 343 Report post Posted July 20, 2015 brakes are looking great, as does the rest 1 Pitman reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ade 517 Report post Posted October 7, 2015 Any updates on this very interesting build? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rob275 1817 Report post Posted November 20, 2015 Build dead? Is this going to be at the TSS next year? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pitman 188 Report post Posted November 21, 2015 On 11/20/2015, 9:26:23, rob275 said: Build dead? Is this going to be at the TSS next year? Build not dead - just not had time to get on the interweb much with being uber busy with work It seems that Photobucket is down - when I can, I will upload some more pictures. The interior (roll cage, seat mounts, etc) are all welded up and the interior sprayed. I have also welded up all the extra holes in the dash, and resprayed the engine compartment, as well as the underbody. Suspension is in, and when it warms up a bit, I will finish the brake and fuel lines, so I can put it back onto some wheels. I still hope to have the car ready for the 2016 TSS, a lot depends on how much time I can get to work on the car with work (and how cold the winter is!). 2 Mark-in-Stoke and Keethos reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
