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Twigman

Extra gauges - wiring routing

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OK chaps and chapesses - those of you who have extra gauges....how have you routed the wiring?

I am thinking primarily oil pressure & oil temp taken from a sandwich block under the filter.

Where have you guys brought the wiring into the cockpit from the engine bay?

Where are your gauges mounted?

I am thinking of a 2/3 gauge pod mounted on the driver's side of the dash clipping into the air vent in the top of the dash.

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I had this installed by Abbey Motorsport, only took them 30 minutes to install and shows tons of information. Also replaces the vent with a very oem looking finish.

 

http://www.p3cars.com/toyota-scion/

 

Gauge Modes

 
Boost: This mode will show vacuum and boost. Depending on settings in the config menu this may be from VAG ecu data or an external analog sensor. Boost is read in PSI by default and Vacuum is inHg. If you configure the gauge to metric boost will be in BAR. 
 
Coolant: This mode will show your current coolant temp. Unlike the needle on your dash, this will show you exactly the temp that your engine is currently running at, and is configurable between Celsius & Fahrenheit. 
 
Air: Air intake temperature. This is the reading of the temperature of the air entering the engine, and is configurable between Celsius & Fahrenheit. 
 
Oil: Oil temperature. This is the reading of the temperature of the engine Oil, and is configurable between Celsius & Fahrenheit. 
 
Igntn: Actual ignition timing. This mode will show you the ignition timing of your engine in real-time. 
 
Egt: Exhaust Gas Temperature. This is the temp of the exhaust gas as calculated by your ECU. 
 
Throttle: Actual throttle plate position. Use this mode to see how your car changes the actual drive by wire throttle blade in relation to what your foot tells it to do. 
 
rp-Shift: RPM readout. It can be handy to use this mode to see an exact RPM or to record/playback and see your shifts. 
 
Speed: Actual roadspeed direct from VSS. This is the actual roadspeed value of the car, uncorrected. This is the raw value, therefore it may not match your cluster which tends to read high in many cars. 
 
0-60: Zero to sixty Performance Timer. Come to a stop and this mode will read “Rdy…” The gauge is ready for you to accelerate to 60. As you accelerate the gauge will time you and automatically stop when you hit 60, leaving your time on the screen. When you slow to zero again the gauge will change to “Rdy…” 
 
Batt: Battery Voltage. This is the voltage of your cars power system, anything between 13-14.5 volts while running is normal. 
 
AFr: Air/Fuel Ratio. This is the real-time Air to Fuel ratio, Stoich of gasoline is 14.7. 

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Not looking at a P3 vent pod....it doesn't do oil pressure.

Looking at these pods : https://www.facebook.com/pages/Block8head-Custom-vent-pod/1386061001612122

carrying 52mm gauges specifically these: http://rspec.co.uk/performance-gauges/stepper-motor-warn-series-Motormeter-prosport-gauge

and one of these for oil pressure: http://rspec.co.uk/gauge-sensor-adaptors/oil-temp-pressure/new-stealth-black-sandwich-plate-adator-m20-x-1.5mm

Pic of LHD but RHD is available:

post-384-0-69474400-1421760884_thumb.jpg

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I've bought the same. 

 

I'll be routing my kit though the Firewall grommet behind the Passenger footwell. 

 

It's where I ran the Power cable for my amp. I put a neat hose in to make it easier to pass cables in the future. 

 

The gauges i've gone for are daisy chain too so only need to worry about one cable. The module box will be under the bonnet with one data cable coming through to the gauges. 

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I'll be routing my kit though the Firewall grommet behind the Passenger footwell. 

.

That's a long way inside the cabin to get across to the driver's side dash top.

How did you route the wire(s) inside the cabin?

Did it involve much dash dismantling?

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That's a long way inside the cabin to get across to the driver's side dash top.

How did you route the wire(s) inside the cabin?

Did it involve much dash dismantling?

 

Not at all. You can pass cables behind the heating controls and out by the steering column very easily. Opening the glove box and you can see behind the dash easily. Then I jsut cable tied it up behind the footwell and across to the driver side vent. Didn't have to remove any trip or dash. At most I popped the glove box out. 

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As some of you will be aware, I have totally gutted my dash and all that goes behind it. I would like to pass on this little friendly piece of advice to any of you that are contemplating this cable routing behind the dash.

 

There are some very sharp bare metal edges up above the pedals and around the column, you also have the moving parts of the pedals and the lower steering column to consider when you route any cables.

In my opinion, the best route would be down through the end of the dash under the pillar trim, and then out through the drivers side loom grommet. Popping the end of the dash off will ease the routing if I remember right.

 

If you start pulling trim off, remember the knee airbag is just below the column. Don't disconnect any yellow connectors with the battery still connected.

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Very easy to do it on the passenger side

I bought the Blitz pod which replaces the panel in front of the passenger and they're still easy to glance at

20140905_155203_zps066smeb7.jpg

Wiring is a piece of piss then as you just route it through the wiring loom grommet in the bulkhead from the engine bay

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I bought a Spa oil pressure and temp gauge. Made my own mount in the drivers side air vent and bought the necessary adaptors from scooby parts for about £30. Wiring through bulkhead drivers side was fiddly.oil2.jpg

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Talking of gauges I will pass on my experiences of the Pro Sport offerings... they are cheap for a reason.. they are not ballasted and voltage variance changes the readings., fluctuating all over the place.. oil pressure consistently showed lower than actual to a point where it seriously worried me.. unnecessarily..

 

Best vfm I found were Defi... like Smudge I've gone for the Blitz panel over the glovebox - wired up in series, power can be taken off the back of the Touch 'n Go, Jay can tell you which terminal to use.

 

Spec K 

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I too (just like Jay) have just placed an order now for the Block8Head dual 52mm gauge pod.

Since these are custom i have asked him to seat the pods closer to the dash (As they seem a bit too raised from the dash from pics i saw), and also closer to the door (further away from the driver) so i can get the gauges out of the way. Especially when performing close twin-drifts when you're literally 30-60 cm away from your buddy's door you really do need every extra bit of windscreen real estate! Hopefully he can accommodate my request!

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I too (just like Jay) have just placed an order now for the Block8Head dual 52mm gauge pod.

Since these are custom i have asked him to seat the pods closer to the dash (As they seem a bit too raised from the dash from pics i saw), and also closer to the door (further away from the driver) so i can get the gauges out of the way. Especially when performing close twin-drifts when you're literally 30-60 cm away from your buddy's door you really do need every extra bit of windscreen real estate! Hopefully he can accommodate my request!

 

Err... ".. twin drifts..." ?

 

.. and we're meeting up on holiday in a few weeks? .. for a 'chill-out, meet my friends and cruise along the Promenade'...?

 

AARGHH! What have I let myself in for..?

 

(Resigned mode) - oh, okay...

 

Spec K

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Err... ".. twin drifts..." ?

 

I promise i won't scare you too much :P It's actually quite relaxing going 60 - 80MPH sideways nearly touching your friend's car. It might not sound right but it mellows me out :D

 

AARGHH! What have I let myself in for..?

I'll be on my best behaviour :D;)

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