hashiriya

I had a discussion with someone about needing better braking when going with more power. This is what I said to them at the time and I'm sure they won't mind me reusing it here: 
 
Regarding whether you need better brakes with FI or not, the point I make is always the same. Will having the extra power mean that you will drive faster everywhere? Of course on the circuit you will be going faster before you start braking so better brakes is always a good choice, but on the road if you are doing normal driving around town or on the motorway I would guess that your speed will be about the same, you will just get there sooner with the extra power. This means that under those situations you probably won't need any extra braking.
 
If you are looking to blast on the back roads and through some corners then again you have to think "Am I going to go faster into the corner or just accelerate harder but stick to a certain speed?" if you are planning on reaching higher speeds then of course the extra braking will help but if you don't intend on reaching higher top speeds then maybe it won't be as effective.
 
I guess you know how you drive and how much you use the brakes so you can always base your decision on that.

Great to see that 3 of the top 5 overall so far are all 86's, all in different classes too. I doubt it will stay like that at the end of the year (mainly due to me likely to fall down the list) but it shows how strong these cars really can be.

Thanks for the invite Rob but I can't make it as I'm scheduled to be in Germany that weekend.

From my experience top mount turbos are generally used for a number of reasons.
 
The first is that the manifolds tend to be under less stress. Tubular manifolds under high temperatures can be quite stressed and crack from the weight of the turbo plus the vibrations and forces of the engine moving etc. It's generally easier and stronger to have a manifold which can use the tubes themselves under compression to help support the weight of the turbo.
 
The second is a more efficient routing of the intake piping system and also space to mount the turbo itself. Aftermarket turbos can be quite large and you tend to find that they can sometimes struggle to fit between the engine and the chassis around it.
 
The third is ease of maintenance if you can reach it easier.
 
Regarding the oil sump, most turbos have a pressurised feed to get oil in but rely on gravity to get the oil out. This would mean that you need to have the turbo positioned higher than the oil sump (Although I would struggle to see how any any car you would get the turbo so low) but from a practical point of view, I would guess that anyone choosing to place their turbo close to the oil sump is doing it to minimise the length of the oil return line.
 
There are many considerations when it comes to turbo kit design but most of it is dictated by the space you have available to work with and the ideal routing for your intake and boost piping.

I had a discussion with someone about needing better braking when going with more power. This is what I said to them at the time and I'm sure they won't mind me reusing it here: 
 
Regarding whether you need better brakes with FI or not, the point I make is always the same. Will having the extra power mean that you will drive faster everywhere? Of course on the circuit you will be going faster before you start braking so better brakes is always a good choice, but on the road if you are doing normal driving around town or on the motorway I would guess that your speed will be about the same, you will just get there sooner with the extra power. This means that under those situations you probably won't need any extra braking.
 
If you are looking to blast on the back roads and through some corners then again you have to think "Am I going to go faster into the corner or just accelerate harder but stick to a certain speed?" if you are planning on reaching higher speeds then of course the extra braking will help but if you don't intend on reaching higher top speeds then maybe it won't be as effective.
 
I guess you know how you drive and how much you use the brakes so you can always base your decision on that.

I had a discussion with someone about needing better braking when going with more power. This is what I said to them at the time and I'm sure they won't mind me reusing it here: 
 
Regarding whether you need better brakes with FI or not, the point I make is always the same. Will having the extra power mean that you will drive faster everywhere? Of course on the circuit you will be going faster before you start braking so better brakes is always a good choice, but on the road if you are doing normal driving around town or on the motorway I would guess that your speed will be about the same, you will just get there sooner with the extra power. This means that under those situations you probably won't need any extra braking.
 
If you are looking to blast on the back roads and through some corners then again you have to think "Am I going to go faster into the corner or just accelerate harder but stick to a certain speed?" if you are planning on reaching higher speeds then of course the extra braking will help but if you don't intend on reaching higher top speeds then maybe it won't be as effective.
 
I guess you know how you drive and how much you use the brakes so you can always base your decision on that.

I had a discussion with someone about needing better braking when going with more power. This is what I said to them at the time and I'm sure they won't mind me reusing it here: 
 
Regarding whether you need better brakes with FI or not, the point I make is always the same. Will having the extra power mean that you will drive faster everywhere? Of course on the circuit you will be going faster before you start braking so better brakes is always a good choice, but on the road if you are doing normal driving around town or on the motorway I would guess that your speed will be about the same, you will just get there sooner with the extra power. This means that under those situations you probably won't need any extra braking.
 
If you are looking to blast on the back roads and through some corners then again you have to think "Am I going to go faster into the corner or just accelerate harder but stick to a certain speed?" if you are planning on reaching higher speeds then of course the extra braking will help but if you don't intend on reaching higher top speeds then maybe it won't be as effective.
 
I guess you know how you drive and how much you use the brakes so you can always base your decision on that.

I had a discussion with someone about needing better braking when going with more power. This is what I said to them at the time and I'm sure they won't mind me reusing it here: 
 
Regarding whether you need better brakes with FI or not, the point I make is always the same. Will having the extra power mean that you will drive faster everywhere? Of course on the circuit you will be going faster before you start braking so better brakes is always a good choice, but on the road if you are doing normal driving around town or on the motorway I would guess that your speed will be about the same, you will just get there sooner with the extra power. This means that under those situations you probably won't need any extra braking.
 
If you are looking to blast on the back roads and through some corners then again you have to think "Am I going to go faster into the corner or just accelerate harder but stick to a certain speed?" if you are planning on reaching higher speeds then of course the extra braking will help but if you don't intend on reaching higher top speeds then maybe it won't be as effective.
 
I guess you know how you drive and how much you use the brakes so you can always base your decision on that.

From my experience top mount turbos are generally used for a number of reasons.
 
The first is that the manifolds tend to be under less stress. Tubular manifolds under high temperatures can be quite stressed and crack from the weight of the turbo plus the vibrations and forces of the engine moving etc. It's generally easier and stronger to have a manifold which can use the tubes themselves under compression to help support the weight of the turbo.
 
The second is a more efficient routing of the intake piping system and also space to mount the turbo itself. Aftermarket turbos can be quite large and you tend to find that they can sometimes struggle to fit between the engine and the chassis around it.
 
The third is ease of maintenance if you can reach it easier.
 
Regarding the oil sump, most turbos have a pressurised feed to get oil in but rely on gravity to get the oil out. This would mean that you need to have the turbo positioned higher than the oil sump (Although I would struggle to see how any any car you would get the turbo so low) but from a practical point of view, I would guess that anyone choosing to place their turbo close to the oil sump is doing it to minimise the length of the oil return line.
 
There are many considerations when it comes to turbo kit design but most of it is dictated by the space you have available to work with and the ideal routing for your intake and boost piping.

From my experience top mount turbos are generally used for a number of reasons.
 
The first is that the manifolds tend to be under less stress. Tubular manifolds under high temperatures can be quite stressed and crack from the weight of the turbo plus the vibrations and forces of the engine moving etc. It's generally easier and stronger to have a manifold which can use the tubes themselves under compression to help support the weight of the turbo.
 
The second is a more efficient routing of the intake piping system and also space to mount the turbo itself. Aftermarket turbos can be quite large and you tend to find that they can sometimes struggle to fit between the engine and the chassis around it.
 
The third is ease of maintenance if you can reach it easier.
 
Regarding the oil sump, most turbos have a pressurised feed to get oil in but rely on gravity to get the oil out. This would mean that you need to have the turbo positioned higher than the oil sump (Although I would struggle to see how any any car you would get the turbo so low) but from a practical point of view, I would guess that anyone choosing to place their turbo close to the oil sump is doing it to minimise the length of the oil return line.
 
There are many considerations when it comes to turbo kit design but most of it is dictated by the space you have available to work with and the ideal routing for your intake and boost piping.

From my experience top mount turbos are generally used for a number of reasons.
 
The first is that the manifolds tend to be under less stress. Tubular manifolds under high temperatures can be quite stressed and crack from the weight of the turbo plus the vibrations and forces of the engine moving etc. It's generally easier and stronger to have a manifold which can use the tubes themselves under compression to help support the weight of the turbo.
 
The second is a more efficient routing of the intake piping system and also space to mount the turbo itself. Aftermarket turbos can be quite large and you tend to find that they can sometimes struggle to fit between the engine and the chassis around it.
 
The third is ease of maintenance if you can reach it easier.
 
Regarding the oil sump, most turbos have a pressurised feed to get oil in but rely on gravity to get the oil out. This would mean that you need to have the turbo positioned higher than the oil sump (Although I would struggle to see how any any car you would get the turbo so low) but from a practical point of view, I would guess that anyone choosing to place their turbo close to the oil sump is doing it to minimise the length of the oil return line.
 
There are many considerations when it comes to turbo kit design but most of it is dictated by the space you have available to work with and the ideal routing for your intake and boost piping.

somebody mentioned something about impeller speeds...

The GTS7040 size unit as used in the kits for 86 has a maximum recommended impeller speed of 110,000. Many have gone a little bit faster and been OK (in fact the 86 in stock configuration does go over by a small amount) but for warranty purposes, you don't really want to push these boundaries.
 
The crank pulley diameter is 148mm on these cars and the stock pulley size on the V2 is 90mm. The drive ratio of the supercharger unit is 9.444 and so at 7500 rpm the impeller is actually rotating at  almost 117,000rpm. Certainly couldn't recommend that you try and go any faster than that but I do know of some shops who have pushed the boundaries and gone for an 85mm pulley and are spinning it up at over 123K. So far they haven't broken it but it's only getting limited use on circuit and they accept that any breakage (if it should occur) would't be covered by any warranty etc.

somebody mentioned something about impeller speeds...

The GTS7040 size unit as used in the kits for 86 has a maximum recommended impeller speed of 110,000. Many have gone a little bit faster and been OK (in fact the 86 in stock configuration does go over by a small amount) but for warranty purposes, you don't really want to push these boundaries.
 
The crank pulley diameter is 148mm on these cars and the stock pulley size on the V2 is 90mm. The drive ratio of the supercharger unit is 9.444 and so at 7500 rpm the impeller is actually rotating at  almost 117,000rpm. Certainly couldn't recommend that you try and go any faster than that but I do know of some shops who have pushed the boundaries and gone for an 85mm pulley and are spinning it up at over 123K. So far they haven't broken it but it's only getting limited use on circuit and they accept that any breakage (if it should occur) would't be covered by any warranty etc.

somebody mentioned something about impeller speeds...

The GTS7040 size unit as used in the kits for 86 has a maximum recommended impeller speed of 110,000. Many have gone a little bit faster and been OK (in fact the 86 in stock configuration does go over by a small amount) but for warranty purposes, you don't really want to push these boundaries.
 
The crank pulley diameter is 148mm on these cars and the stock pulley size on the V2 is 90mm. The drive ratio of the supercharger unit is 9.444 and so at 7500 rpm the impeller is actually rotating at  almost 117,000rpm. Certainly couldn't recommend that you try and go any faster than that but I do know of some shops who have pushed the boundaries and gone for an 85mm pulley and are spinning it up at over 123K. So far they haven't broken it but it's only getting limited use on circuit and they accept that any breakage (if it should occur) would't be covered by any warranty etc.

Lauren, If you want Project Mu, then Hendy Performance have recently become the UK distributor. I think the range they have in stock is a bit limited at this time but I'm sure they will expand it as the enquiries come in.

Lauren, If you want Project Mu, then Hendy Performance have recently become the UK distributor. I think the range they have in stock is a bit limited at this time but I'm sure they will expand it as the enquiries come in.

Lauren, If you want Project Mu, then Hendy Performance have recently become the UK distributor. I think the range they have in stock is a bit limited at this time but I'm sure they will expand it as the enquiries come in.

if for any reason it doesn't work out, I'll have mine at Cadwell too Kev so give me a shout if you need.

Great to hear of another local owner. I live a littler further away but work just outside Huntingdon. If you get the craving between now and when you collect, hit me up and take mine for a short drive. Won't be the same as yours (mine has a few modifications) but it will scratch the itch...

This unit was made for Subaru by DEFI which is why it will be so similar in style. So you should be able to set things like warning levels as well as the peak hold function and data log playback as mentioned above.

HKS make a single exit for 86/BRZ also. It's loud though...

Glad you are loving them. I found for road use softening the front dampers by a few clicks (5-7) made it even easier for daily use with very little detriment to handling. Have a play around and i'll be interested to see how you get on.

I agree that the dowel solution is not the best of ways to do things.
 
the stock engine block itself is proving to be quite a bit stronger than anyone expected. A good set of rods and pistons is looking likely to be strong enough for most peoples unless you are after an extreme (and by that i mean 600+hp) amount of power.
 
I keep toying with the idea of building my engine up and releasing the rest of the power from my supercharger... maybe about this time next year...

I agree that the dowel solution is not the best of ways to do things.
 
the stock engine block itself is proving to be quite a bit stronger than anyone expected. A good set of rods and pistons is looking likely to be strong enough for most peoples unless you are after an extreme (and by that i mean 600+hp) amount of power.
 
I keep toying with the idea of building my engine up and releasing the rest of the power from my supercharger... maybe about this time next year...

Great to meet you all again.
 
I wasn't convinced by the track layout at first but as the conditions improved I felt that it was much more palatable. It was far from ideal but due to the event having to be moved in the first place I think they made the most out of what they had available.
 
Really happy with my result. Able to be the fastest street spec 86 on the day (Adrians car was a but a distant dream) and even managed to fend off the street spec Celica GT4s also. It was my years goal to catch up to Lauren and Stand and I finally managed it albeit on a track layout where power does make more of a difference. I'm sure normal order will be restored next year though but I'm really happy with how my driving has developed over just a few events and really look forward to some good competition again!