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VAD17

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Posts posted by VAD17

  2. Posted · Report reply

    Welcome onboard!

    You cant go wrong with TD NA tune (or turbo in you want more).

    I have Gramlight Rays, not as expensive and Lucas at Partbox often has a good deal on them.

    I have Tein Flex As, popular and very good for the price, both on normal roads and track (although a bit wobbly for my liking beyond 10 clicks from hard).

    Ksports are pretty good (I had them for nearly 2.5 yrs now), consider Reyland kit though as well. Reyland also do disks for Ksport, which are cheaper and aparently just as good.

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

    choupolo reacted to this

  3. Posted · Report reply

    I cant count number of times I had the same issue. Even today my 4m old battery died (to be fair have not used the car for over 2 weeks due to cov and prior to that it was a 1.5mile round trip to shop), but at least it opened first time.

    11 counterclockwise/ 3 clockwise is about right, and depending on how lucky/ unlucky you are it can take 15-20 mins to unlock (its like continuous and frustrating rocking).

    This thread has good recommendations tried and tested by many members:

    - WD40 

    - Allen Key (I use padded garden glove as well)

    - applying slightly more force counterclockwise

    Solar battery charger may be a good purchase for the future.

    Good luck!

    Tim reacted to this

  4. Posted · Report reply

    By hand today it felt like with the extra GT85 lubrication in there I could move it ever so slightly more (may have all been in my head), but still couldn't get it.  I added even more GT85 and kept going a little more in my head thinking it would be working through.  Then....
    [mention=2054]gazza82[/mention] - wow, so as I remembered I'd put my allen keys somewhere extra 'safe'/sensible (as was using more on my bike than the car with them!) so I decided to try the same approach you recommended with a strong thin drill bit.  Nervously I gently turned it, no particular pressure, first time it easily just popped open, no drama (aside from me being in shock and don't think I've ever been quite so happy to smell the waft of air freshener from the car).  Thank you so much for suggesting this.  Right tool for the job thing I guess and why "normal" physical keys have a greater surface, all about the turning moment.
    I then popped the bonnet and 'climbed' back into the boot to get to my jump starter pack.  It had enough to set the alarm off a few times before dying, so giving that a charge now and will try again later.  At the very worst now I have access to replace the battery, but hoping it shouldn't come to that, although knowing they don't like to go completely flat.  The car has already have the larger capacity battery fitted by the dealer.
    Thanks all for the input and thoughts here and hope this gives further help/encouragement to anyone else who ends up visiting this thread like I did due to have this issue.
     
    Glad you finally got in

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

    cts reacted to this

  5. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks, given it another 25 minutes, tried to get some more GT85 in it.  No joy.  Need a break from it so may wait until tomorrow now.  I'm pretty patient, but this is testing.....although what a great 'game' to pass the time in lockdown!?  Would you say you were using force or just 'rocking'/turning it from side to side?  Once you get it to open is it then easy to repeat, you've just freed up the mechanism? 
    I had to apply force, particularly counter clockwise (had to limit it though, was afraid of breaking the key).

    Out of 3 times I tried only 1st took a long time, but I wouldn't want to try locking it and unlocking again.

    I assume you tried spraying WD40 on the key as well?

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

  6. Posted · Report reply

    Hi all,
    First off, I hope everyone is doing as OK as possible during this odd time we're all going through.  It puts car issues into perspective to a degree, but the one I face today is seeming rather frustrating (and you can guess by the thread I'm adding to!).
    Long story short - I'm locked out of my 86, dead battery and no joy with the physical keys (I have both).  Potentially more worryingly in the past (September 2018) I've had success with one of the physical keys when just my key fob battery died.
    I have tried with some GT85/WD40 and turned the key back and forth for ~20 minutes now - no joy.  Any specific technique/extra detail that those who had success applied here - [mention=3157]Chess010[/mention], [mention=2394]Cerastes[/mention], [mention=1957]maurice[/mention] ?  I can turn it both ways which I'm not sure is more worrying that it just being stiff and not moving. 
    The key turns further right/clockwise (which I understand from this thread would be to lock) than the distance it moves left/anticlockwise which I understand would be to unclock) - is that in line with what could be curren expectations suggesting it needs a bit more force to turn further anticlockwise?
    Thanks in advance for any insight!
    I had same issue (all 3 times before Toyota replaced the battery) - clockwise it was moving about 1/4 or more of the revolution, while anticlockwise only just a bit. 1st time it took me around 20 mins to unlock (i found padded gloves to make it slightly more bearable).

    I'd say try again, but yeah its very very annoying

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

  7. Posted · Report reply

    AWESOME! Like the new look a lot.

    Want to order longer wheel nuts as well now for my CR57, but think of L32 instead. Need to decide on colour (was also thinking blue, but don't know if they would look ok with grey car - may be black again).

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
     

    Stutopia and Lucas reacted to this

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Event Title: Go Japan! - Brands Hatch, Sunday September 13th
    Event Author: VAD17
    Event Date: 13.09.2020

     

    Go Japan!

    Sunday, September 13th

    Brands Hatch Circuit

    https://gojapan.co.uk/

    Go Japan is an automotive celebration of anything Japanese, taking place at Brands Hatch for the first time. It's sure to be a season highlight!

    The event is 'Japanese only' in terms of cars, and will feature many interactive displays plus Japanese arts and crafts and cultural experiences. It will also feature Comicon characters, live music, industry celebrities and much more.

    Time Attack will headline at this event on-track, with professional, Japanese drift cars also set to thrill. There will also be a showcase of 'Japanese Legends‘ and a presentation of tuning and race cars from the present and past.

    What to expect at Go Japan!?

    Motorsport on track:

    • Time Attack / Racing / Drifting / Special Exhibits
    • Car clubs & displays off track
    • Visitor participatory experiences
    • Car Show
    • Japanese food vendors
    • Performers & Cosplay
    • Live stage
    • Live music, DJ & cultural displays
    • Competitions
    • Harajuku fashion show
    • Hobby & enthusiasts groups
    • Celebrity race drivers / influencers
    • Iconic race cars
    • Trade Zones – Car/Bike/Culture
    • Family fun

    To see what's on go to:

    http://gojapan.co.uk/whats-on/

    We will have club stand. 

    To book space on the club stand go to:

    http://gojapan.co.uk/club-stands/

    and click "Join your club stand" (red button) to register

    Club code: 96006631

    (please make sure you register to for us to get space)

    To book tickets (separate to club stand) go to:

    https://brandshatch.msv.com/BH-20-gojapan

    Also, tickets from cancelled Tunerfest South can be used (this would be combined event)

    Once you booked tickets and club stand please let me know.

    See you there!

    Attending:

    1. @VAD17 (organiser)

    2. @Dankool

    3. @kaisersalsek

    4. @The Minion

    5. @Rich83

    6. @SimonG68

    7. @gavin_t

    8. @maurice

    9. @Rocket Panda

     

    brands_aerial.jpg

     

    Go Japan! - Brands Hatch, Sunday September 13th

    kaisersalsek, Rocket Panda and Subota Boy reacted to this

  12. Posted · Report reply

    Japanese Auto Matsuri is on June 7th

    Tunerfest South on June 14th

    Bromley Pageant of Motoring on June 21st

    I think we probably set for June😁

    I have updated list above with couple more options to choose from

    Considering some interest in Go Japan! I will add it to the calendar and will request club stand booking code

    kaisersalsek reacted to this

  13. Posted · Report reply

    Has anyone considered JDM Combe? It's usually a pretty good club event. 
    If it's already been spoke about - apologies!
    I organised club stand 2yrs in a row (we had 2-3 cars only). Last time joined Weekend Racers stand (very nice and friendly bunch) and had 4 Gt86 there.

    We have club event on Jun 6th already I believe this year, but was thinking about one of the action days later. Let me check the calendar

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

  14. Posted · Report reply

    There are quite a few interesting events in the club calendar already.

    If you would like to put more make your suggestions.

    Hare are few interesting options to consider

    Sunday, July 12th- The London Cartel Show

    Crystal Palace Park, London SE19 2AD

    https://londoncartel.org/index.php/the-show/

    Sunday, September 5th - Forge Action Day

    Castle Combe Circuit, Chippenhah, Wiltshire, SN14 7EY

    https://castlecombecircuit.co.uk/shows/forge-action-day 

    Sunday, September 13th - Go Japan!

    Brands Hatch Circuit, Longfield, Kent DA3 8NG

    http://gojapan.co.uk/

    * will be added to the calendar

    Sunday, October 11th - Autumn Motorsport Day

    Brooklands Museum, Weybridge, Surrey, KT13 0SL

    Let me know if you would be interested and I can organise club stands

  15. Posted · Report reply

    8" is probably the minimum you can get away with. 8.5" was suggested when I was getting my FI kit from TD couple years back (mind you I was planning also to track it occasionally).

    I ended up with 9.5, but tbh think its a bit too wide (I am on 245/40 18).

    Hope this helps

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

  17. Posted · Report reply

    Ok, car is back

    Just took it round the area and to the gas station. Disks have cleared and brakes seem to work ok. Parked and hopefully brakes will not seize overnight/

    Need to take the car up and down the A3 over the weekend to test brakes properly an bed the new brake pads.

    Will probably take it to Carson Performance (luckily they are close to Guildford where I go every week) to check as well.

    Question for knowledgeable members - I have ordered Ferodo FRP 3077H but received FRP 3076H. They both fit KSports Calipers (AP size 5070/ CP5575) but FRP 3076H have radial depth 50mm instead of 54mm for FRP 3076H.

    How important is this, particularly considering occasional track day use?

    Reading Essex blog it seems the upswept part of the risk can cause temperature gradient (assume this means inside part of the disk will be cooler as there would be no pad touching it) and potentially premature cracking of the desk.

     https://www.essexparts.com/news-blog/track-and-racing-brake-pad-owners-guide

    As I had to use the pads the only option I have now is the 50% refund (which for Ferodo DS 2500 is ~ 40% of the new disks price). I have purchased 2 sets (to have an extra replacement set just in case), so discount is worth almost new disks.

    So my dilemma is:

    - keep both sets (don't expect disks to last more than 2 new sets if nothing else happens with the disks); or

    - exchange 1 to FRP 3077H and keep the other - and either use it, (but I guess changing to FRP 3077H would not be an option due to even disk wear, so the disk life may be limited to the life of pads or cracking, whichever happens first) or change them to new set as soon as they arrive.

    Hmmm?

  18. Posted · Report reply

    In hindsight, probably better if you couldn't free it by lighting up the rears which is harder in an auto, then worth getting something beefy to tow you for a bit to free it off if it happens again. A really wet day after you parked up would stick the pads to the disc. Thing is with a manual, you can be a  lot more brutal, which is sometimes what you need. 
    DS2500's are not hard on discs, so don't see why you'd need them skimmed. Just a bit of heavy braking will clean them up. I admit, I just change pads and discs together as they seem to last about the same. My DS2500's still have plenty on them after 40K miles. Discs are okay too. Reckon they'll need changing at around 50K miles.
    Yes, but you don't use brakes on track , or just a bit...

    I am surprised your pads last that long. May be DS2500 would, I didn't get a chance with this set. May be will be more lucky with next set.


    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

  19. Posted · Report reply

    I think it was due to pads and discs rusting. Hope you get it back soon, although I wouldn't be confident that you will get away with not having the discs skimmed that pads really do eat into the disc.
    Do you leave the car stood for a long time?
    Not really, 4 days
    To be honest the rain was really bad and it was after a track day Sunday after last, so some rust and a bit of sticking wouldn't be unexpected (happened before).
    I like DS2500 more than previous pads (various colours of ECB), and inspecting disks with a finger touch (not scientific but last time when i had a slight lip on the disks - after about 11-12k miles and 15odd track days - I could feel it, although it only bothered me under heavy braking on track days, hence had to change).
    Well, when pads arrive will take it up and down A3 to see how it goes, will start with gentle braking to clear disks and then heavy to bed pads and check if brakes work properly and ready for the next track day end of Feb

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Ok, here is the update...

    Recovery guys took the car to a nearby garage (didn't have much choice, has to be within 10 miles) which I selected based on google reviews (hint - don't trust them).

    Garage chaps called me and told that I have 6 pistons "damaged" and very rusty disks, and its better to replace calipers. I told them the disks are fine and ask to send photos of pistons so I can talk to KSports. (Nothing arrived, which got be somewhat suspicious). In their view they can get pistons moving, but there is a risk that they will seize again, and its very difficult to rebuild because its multiple pistons...

    So, I was calling KSports and Reylands to see what my options and messaged @Mike@TD.co.uk….

    After some re-assuring chat with Mike went myself to insect calipers… lo and behold - yes, they are very rusty and dirty but the garage cowboys didn't even challenge me when I told them they are fine (guess they just pushed them back). The pads are split and crumbling (wouldn't be surprised if they have done it) and need replacing, and there is a massive rusty patch where the pads got stuck to the disks, but I am 99.99% sure its just pads sticking to the disks badly (I don't think I even need disks skimmed, expected the rust will clear up after few good hard braking attempt on A3).

    I still need to replace pads, but hopefully that's it. I am not even going to ask garage cowboys to clean disks and calipers as I just don't trust them at all. The disks are now turning although they are in rust and have 2 large pads patches to clear.

    In fact, Mike thinks that if I got the recovery truck to pull the car hard there was a good chance the rust would've let go and the then I could clear up the brakes (happened before when I had to give it a good welly), although I do have 2 tyre marks on the driveway from rear wheels spinning when I tried. 

    So not sorted yet, the car is in the cowboys garage without front wheels and pads need replacing. Pads should be arriving Friday (ordered just now), will go with Ferodo DS2500 again.

    Fingers crossed, hopefully this would only cost me new pads and some worry about leaving the car in somewhat untrustworthy garage...

    And that's why I would rather drive long way to TD or go to Abbey rather than letting some cowboys touching my car, they just have no shame at all (I'll post my review on Google as well, but only after I get my car back)😡

  23. Posted · Report reply

    I hope its just slider pins or may be they need a good clean and greasing.
    Recovery dudes didn't manage to get specialist truck today (to be fair I would rather wait than risk them damaging the front), so this will drag into next week
    Its not like I experienced drag or anything, either on track or regular driving, they just got stuck completely out of the blue
    I hope they got fixed before Bedford track day and would not require caliper replacement.

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk

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