spikyone
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Posts posted by spikyone
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My advice would be to get yourself an aftermarket head unit.
The OE one from the earlier cars was a module that plugged in to the head unit and wasn't integrated at all. You could get the head unit from a later car, but it'll still be crap. If you're spending money on something there are plenty of options that will look and work far better, and won't break the bank.
(I'd also say that DAB is a bit rubbish, IME. Too many dead spots in the coverage so it drops out a lot)
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16 hours ago, Lauren said:That's not what I meant.
I meant that you may well have the colours that Will suggested.
OK, I thought you were talking about the GR Yaris red. Much nicer than the plain red that's being offered, IMO.
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6 hours ago, Lauren said:Richard did say colour are 'same as GR Yaris TBC'. So I suspect there are likely more colours to be available. The GR Yaris was only available in Gazoo Racing colours plus the pearl white.
I would expect that if you put a deposit down now, when it comes to placing an actual order you can choose your colour then and it would seem likely there'll be more colours available judging by what we already know from other markets.
The Neptune Blue is a really nice colour. 👍
Not likely that we'd get different colours to those in the US, they got more colours than us for the GT86 (with special editions) so no reason to expect more than are listed on @will300's link.
Doesn't matter to me as I'm not planning to replace my current car.
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Neptune looks good. But I'd prefer them to have used the same red as the GR Yaris rather than the bright red. That colour would've looked great on the GT86.
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I have a Tuning Developments EL manifold that I'm looking to sell - very nice piece of kit. Tomei and HKS are going to be fairly rare so you might be waiting a while for one of those.
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8 hours ago, Leeky said:Stock header here. Made 215 NA and now over 300bhp SC’d. Its not quite the restriction its made out to be.
It's a restriction if staying NA - mapping an NA car without an aftermarket manifold is a lot of money for little benefit. 215 NA without any other mods sounds a bit like a dyno with an optimistic calibration! What did it record before the remap?
@ThatGuyThere the problem is delivery, not peak output, and mapping alone can't fix that. 100bhp/litre for a modern NA engine is very high - in terms of peak output, Toyota/Subaru have pretty much maxed out that engine given emissions regs.
Back on the original topic, I'd definitely say the GT86 is better looking, but in every other way the GR86 sounds like it's better. If I were buying now I'd be inclined to buy the GR and spend money on fixing the cosmetic stuff.
(Actually, who am I kidding, I'd more likely buy the GR and modify the hell out of it... 😂)
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I have 225/40 on an 8.5 rim and it's fine. As a heads-up, other sizes of suitable tyre are much more expensive. I don't think the stretch looks particularly extreme; you will lose a little rim protection, but I've used my car on track and never had any concerns about the stretch causing a problem. Bear in mind that going wider will make the car harder to unsettle on the throttle, so if you like a throttle-adjustable balance you won't want to go too wide anyway. A 225 PS4 has as much grip as I need, and that's running ~290bhp with a supercharger.
I posted costs for different tyre sizes a little while back, along with photos of my tyres.
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That bumper looks a bit too aftermarket in my eyes, but it does fix the biggest issue with the front end styling, which is that the tall and narrow grille on the GR86 makes the whole car look too tall and narrow and makes the nose look a bit dumpy.
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3 hours ago, Jay Bamrah said:Yeah fully agree, I was hoping somebody here would have driven one to compare
Not for a while yet, they only had the US press reviews last week, it'll be a while before UK press reviews, and public drives will be some time after that.
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GT86 is better looking, IMO. Stock Vs stock, the GR86 seems like it might be a better car in pretty much every way. I'm certainly interested to try one and see how it compares to my SC'd GT86, it'd have to be pretty damn good for me to consider switching though.
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Depending on where you're based, I have one too - I'm in Swindon.
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On 8/8/2021 at 3:28 PM, MartinT said:I have no interest in power. Torque is real-world driveability and the only parameter that matters to me.
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What I meant was, nobody goes to their tuner and asks for a certain amount of torque; nor do they say "what a lovely car, how much torque does it make?". People talk in terms of how much power their car makes, so equally it makes sense for tuners to specify a certain power output as being safe.
I'll also say that torque doesn't matter per se; that's what a gearbox is for. The shape of the torque curve is what matters more (see the infamous torque dip). If you're sacrificing a flat torque curve to increase your peak torque, you'll end up with an engine with a drop-off somewhere in the rev range - it will either feel peaky or asthmatic.
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300bhp is based on mapping for the best possible torque curve. There's no way to get over 300bhp without adding more torque, and most people are interested in power output rather than torque output so it makes sense to say 300bhp as a limit.
I think it's probably more a case of how you drive in low gears vs high gears that leads to the perception of higher gears being the issue. In short, if you're using all the torque, and the torque is too high, you'll bend a rod.
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It sort of means rpm; rpm is a non-standard unit, so to do torque x speed = power, you have to use:
Torque in Nm
Speed* in radians per second
Power in Watts
You can do a calculation using other units (e.g. rpm for speed) but you have to use a conversion factor to correct it.
To get more power, you would generally want more torque, yes. However you can also achieve it by changing where the peak torque occurs, depending on the engine characteristics. So if you had peak power at, say, 4000rpm, it might be that your torque drops off at higher rpms. You might be able to increase the torque at 6000rpm so that it's the same torque you previously made at 4000rpm: in that case your peak torque figure hasn't changed, but because it occurs at a higher rpm you'll make a higher power. It will mean that instead of making peak power at 4000rpm, you'd make peak power at 6000rpm. Hopefully that makes sense...
If your car is tuned properly with forced induction, you won't be in a situation where you can add more power by changing the shape of the torque curve though. Peak power for these engines is very high in the rev range and the torque curve should be fairly flat in that region.
Just my opinion here, but a GT86 with nearly 300bhp (as you'd get with forced induction) is pretty quick. To get that power, with appropriate suspension/brake upgrades, is going to cost £8-10k. If you really want more than 300bhp you'd be better off selling the GT86 and buying something else.
(*As a note, "speed" is actually angular velocity, but I thought that was even more confusing!)
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Power is torque x speed (with a multiplier if you're not using Nm and radians/sec), not torque x time.
So, at a given engine rpm, if you increase the torque, you will also increase power at that rpm. When you see dyno graphs, they use rpm as the x-axis (along the bottom), and both torque and power on the y-axis. If you pick a certain rpm - say 4000rpm - the engine will make a certain torque, and as a result of that, a particular power. If you increase the torque at 4000rpm (by tuning), you'll have more power at 4000rpm.
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2 hours ago, BRZ-123 said:Just please ask if you can , if the intake manifold dimensions are the same as our cars, if yes existing SC set ups can be bolted on straight, I would expect.
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I wonder whether they've upgraded the rods compared to the FA20 though? The rods in the FA20 would certainly be strong enough for the FA24's output, and the stroke is 86mm again. That could limit the potential for FI on the new one to be a similar level to the first gen. I'll be at FOS too and will definitely be paying Toyota a visit 😁
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A little dirty - OK, very dirty - and I actually took this a couple of weeks ago. One thing Toyota got right with the GR86 was giving it a lip spoiler instead of the fussy OEM ones that came on the GT86.
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15 hours ago, Jay Bamrah said:If you didn’t track your car would you still have done it? Also that thread had a lot of useful info thanks for that!
Good question. I guess I went to it as a default when I had the SC fitted as it was something I'd been thinking about. If I was only using it for the road I might have done something similar to Martin, and waited to see whether it seemed like it was getting particularly hot.
Martin's thread is great for inspiration. I've tried to upgrade my car without compromise and using good quality parts, and Martin has definitely taken a similar approach.
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14 minutes ago, Jay Bamrah said:That’s a lot of money to change manifolds when u have one already did you not find a better option ?
I suppose it depends what you mean by better. I take my car on track so under-bonnet temperatures were more of a concern, and seeing Martin's comments on his thread I felt that there would be a benefit in swapping. I also had the same issue where the TD manifold was tight against the front of the engine. No issues and when I asked Mike at TD about it he said it was normal, but having it out of the way felt like a benefit. I also thought the Rogue looked nicely engineered. I still need to get around to selling my TD manifold too, which should recoup some of the cost. Since it was done at the same time as the SC and some other work the cost was less noticeable.
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3 hours ago, Jay Bamrah said:Thanks a lot!
What supercharger do you have and aftermarket manifold?
Harrop supercharger and Rogue Motorsport EL manifold. I previously had the Tuning Developments manifold. Martin on here had his Harrop fitted with his existing TD manifold a few months before me and was concerned the engine bay was getting a bit hot, as the TD manifold loops up into the bay, so he switched to the Rogue manifold around the time I booked in to get the SC fitted. I saw his pictures and got serious manifold envy, so I ended up going the same route.
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9 hours ago, Jay Bamrah said:Hey
Just curious but does anyone here have a turbo or supercharged BRZ/86 that passes emissions legitimately or is it a given that you won’t pass legitimately. I guessed with a supercharger you can keep the cats. Lesser so with a turbo due to they need a more free flow exhaust but i don’t know for sure.
Also will stock 7inch wide tyres + MP4 tyres be adequate grip or not really.
Any help is appreciated thanks:)
My car has passed an MOT emissions test with a supercharger and just the secondary cat. So if you were to go turbo, that should also pass emissions. The issue with only one cat is getting the secondary cat hot enough, which a turbo/SC will help with. You shouldn't need a new exhaust unless you're going for very high power, at which point you'd be looking at strengthening the engine's internals - you will most likely need forged rods before you need a higher flowing exhaust.
In terms of enough grip, Michelin PS4 (I guess that's what you mean) are very good. Someone was actually running SC with the stock Primacy tyres, which seems like madness to me and was probably enough to focus the attention when it's cold and wet. I'm on slightly wider PS4, and there is plenty of grip. The big advantages I've found with PS4 are better wet/cold weather performance, and a more progressive feel when they start losing grip; the feel through them is far better than the Primacy tyres that (to me) always felt like there was a very fine line between on the limit and over the limit. I'd be happy to run SC with stock wheels on PS4.
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9 hours ago, Jay Bamrah said:Little photoshoot because I thought the water looked cool on my car—I think these photos really show that my car needs grey/black wheels anyone disagree/agree?
Grey looks good with gunmetal wheels. Not really a fan of black ones though. A polished lip definitely helps, IMO.
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MartinT's BRZ
in Projects & Builds
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Sounds similar to mine Martin, I have the Reyland kit with their own discs, with braided lines and stock calipers/Cossie pads at the back. I think I had the PFCs on the front beforehand, though that's going back a while now. I'm perfectly happy with the AP/Ferodo setup at the front. Great stopping power, feel is pretty good (though I'm no driving god) and they stand up to abuse on track much better.