Rusty crank pulley

[sxocpaul 49]

Anyone else noticed this on theirs?

[Lucas 244]

Yes, it's quite normal, especially if yours is '12 plate like mine.

Maybe you'd be interested in Cusco Lightweight billet aluminium pulleys? 

Set of 3

Crank pulley - 790g vs OE 2.3kg

Alternator pulley - 76g vs OE 300g

Water pump pulley - 245g vs OE 500g

 

[Mr Slow 4]

Do the Cusco replacement crank pulley's incorporate a harmonic balancer?

 

If not I'd avoid like the plague OP, there's a very good reason harmonic balancers are fitted to cars.

[sxocpaul 49]

Thanks for the offer but it's a 13 plate and still in warranty.  

[Gary p 46]

@Mr Slow I've run Perrin lightweight pulleys with no harmonic balancer for around 20000miles + got it turbo'd with no issue at all😁

[Foulsmell 120]

Thanks for the offer but it's a 13 plate and still in warranty.  

 

Could you be bothered??? Doesn't affect how it works.

[Deacon 1357]

2 hours ago, sxocpaul said:

Thanks for the offer but it's a 13 plate and still in warranty.  

I don't think warranty will cover it. I know my cam solenoid outer rust wasn't covered.

[Mr Slow 4]

I think the OP was more concerned with replacing the part whilst the car was still in warranty and potentially voiding said warranty

[nikndel 509]

Just looked at this I would think nothing to worry about

[Mr Slow 4]

 

On 8/3/2017 at 0:56 PM, Gary p said:

@Mr Slow I've run Perrin lightweight pulleys with no harmonic balancer for around 20000miles + got it turbo'd with no issue at all😁

Good for you. However if Toyota/Subaru didn't think a Harmonic balancer were needed they wouldn't fit one. 4 cylinder engines are inherently imbalanced, without a balancer you're going to be shortening engine life.

 

Personally I wouldn't trade a miniscule saving of weight for the potential of reduced reliability.

[Lauren 2259]

5 minutes ago, Mr Slow said:

 

Good for you. However if Toyota/Subaru didn't think a Harmonic balancer were needed they wouldn't fit one. 4 cylinder engines are inherently imbalanced, without a balancer you're going to be shortening engine life.

 

Personally I wouldn't trade a miniscule saving of weight for the potential of reduced reliability.

I agree with you on that one. I seriously doubt a lightweight pulley would make any difference at all apart from not going rusty. 

My crank pulley is pretty rusty, but it doesn't really matter. I just don't worry about stuff like that. 

[Church 209]

IIRC only oem style aftermarket crank pulleys with integrated vibration/harmonic dampening for our cars are:

- ATI Performance Products Super Damper  (7.07" diameter = 10% underdrive compared to stock)

- Fluidampr crank pulley, 5.7958lbs. Even heavier then oem cp. Supposedly smooths out / prolongs life / and by their tests supposedly even add a bit performance.

From differing from the rest there is also TODA Racing undersized crunk pulley. Single piece / without dampening though.

All the rest aftermarket CPs - stock sized single piece from billet oem sized crank pulleys without dampening of varying weight/color/price.

P.S.

Possible that BRZ has lighter by 1lbs OEM CP then GT86/FR-S.

 

There always were LOT of flamewar whenever talk about lightweight crank pulleys/flywheels for supposedly very balanced subaru boxers surfaces again. From what it seems from digging through many of those threads:

1) not worth to go overboard. People had run for long mileage with lightweight crank pulleys OR lightweight flywheels. NOT both, as there already been several cases of shot bearings after 10-20K miles for FA20 / EJ25 engines, as reported by shops.

2) saw mention, that AT owners may prefer LWCP, MT owners - LWFW (what the reasoning? :/ )

I arrived at thought, that there is not much to be gained performance wise from lightweight pulleys (especially price/performance wise). Most of gains may come from dyno error or manipulation too. So unless it's for looks/bling reasons, or unless it's for high-budget track-dedicated build (with lightening everything possible, stripping interior, removing AC, change to also lightweight wheels/axle/battery/race seats/etc/etc), then LW CP or FW worth only if track use is not occasional but one that owner focuses most. It may ease/quicken gear switches due faster rpm fall-off for rev-matching, but does it matter for daily driving? Is it worth to compromise long-term engine durability for that? For me - no, as i naively hope to drive mine for 150-200K & 10 years if i don't total it . So if i'll ever go that route, most probably lightening from clutch side. Or going undersized route, not lighter one. (and ONLY if it won't make me use non-stock belt and won't interfer with other parts, eg. oil cooler and so on)