nickfrog 9 Report post Posted February 6, 2015 - why does the car occasionally beeps when I close the door without having seemingly forgotten something like the indicator ? no a big deal but annoying. - the car seems a little too stiffly sprung at the rear : the slightest (even progressive and smooth) lift with even modest amounts of lock seems to breach rear lat grip. I know it's the entire point of the car, BUT i's a bit tiring when you're after a bit of neutrality. Any (cheap) solutions ? - mpg. The car has replaced a 125i Coupe (N52 3 litre) de-restricted to 260ps. Despite that and 1450kgs, the GT86 can just about match the mpg over a month of exactly the same driving routine... Not a biggy but a little bizarre. - apart from that the engine is still rubbish to use, almost embarrassingly so, but at least it's low and light enough to justify its existence (just) - my basic stereo still reads my texts but that's down to Windows phone I think. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted February 6, 2015 The first one, I don't quite understand. The second one is a matter of technique, the car is actually pretty neutral in it's handling, but does always yearn to be steered by the rear end. You could make it less so by fitting BRZ springs. You could also change your driving style and adapt it to the car. Must admit, I've not experienced this. Pretty much all oversteer I get is the fault of my right foot. MPG YMMV of course, but I get around 37mpg average doing 400 miles a week. Even just local driving I see around 35mpg. To use the engine you need to rev it. Learn to enjoy it. Sounds like you don't like the car? 1 nickfrog reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nickfrog 9 Report post Posted February 6, 2015 No I quite like the car. I am being picky. Coming from massive rear tyres and even push understeer in the BMW does indeed mean that I have to adapt my technique and be a little smoother. I still have no neg camber still so I might (eventually) go for 1.2 front and 1.5 rear maybe when I get round to it. I am confident Bedford GT on 9 March will be a good opportunity to bond with the chassis and engine !! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted February 6, 2015 If you put more negative camber on it will improve turn in, but in a way it will make the rear more lively if you dial out the understeer. I have done this and far prefer it. Nothing worse than understeer IMO. Oversteer I'm happy to deal with. This is a car with a very well balanced chassis and that's the point really. I've got 2 degrees negative camber on the front and 1.75 on the rear. It works very well, but it does make the car a fair bit sharper than stock settings. It's my preference of course. It's key here to adapt your driving style to the car. Any different car will handle differently and what works on one car may well not work on the other. I think you will be blown away by how good the car is as a package after a trackday, wait till then! 2 Polishingpedlar and nickfrog reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nickfrog 9 Report post Posted February 6, 2015 You're right and I might just keep the balance and stick 1.5 deg all round. I don't know at what point too much front camber starts having too much impact on braking distances though ? It is possible that my perception of the handling is only based on winter driving with greasy roads and not really getting enough heat on either axles or possibly varying levels of heat too between axles. The F1s have been an improvement on the Primacy that's for sure but it's possible that I still haven't had a chance to get both axles at the optimum temp at the same time yet !!! Bedford should solve that providing it's dry. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GT86Jay 202 Report post Posted February 6, 2015 First one is to probably to if you opened the door before turning the car off? For some reason the car can't set the steering lock if the door is open when you turn the engine off? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted February 6, 2015 I've not noticed any impact on braking distances in the last 20K miles or so with those settings. 1 nickfrog reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nickfrog 9 Report post Posted February 6, 2015 That's good to hear. Does the added neg camber balances you tyre wear ? Or is the insides get worn first ? Jay, I do sometimes open the door to check the kerb while manoeuvring so that must be it, cheers. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted February 6, 2015 My tyres seem to wear pretty evenly. I didn't put on too much negative camber to affect it. That's why I went for those settings. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
nickfrog 9 Report post Posted February 9, 2015 To use the engine you need to rev it. Learn to enjoy it. On reflection and after 100 miles today, I hate the engine a little bit more everyday. I reckon I rev it all right. It's just gruff and bizarrely mapped. It's like it was mapped by a committee who argued all day and decided to try and please everyone and ended up with the worst of all words in terms of fuelling. It never really takes off like a 200hp VTEC will eventually do. It has decent low range response but mid range is just bizarre. The mid-range dip is just farcical. I am normally a chassis man and don't care much about engine but that's stretching it a bit. It sounds like a broken k-series too. Really challenging to live with. Having said that the chassis is sublime. It was brilliant to out corner a recent 4wd TT out of a dual lane roundabout, even in the traction zone. Although the guy's hands position on the wheel gave the game away... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Special K 442 Report post Posted February 10, 2015 Nick, get it re-mapped first and re-cambered second - Mark at Abbey is your nearest Toyo superstar. Enjoy Bedford, you'll learn a lot about your car and yourself. Spec K Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
keelerad 256 Report post Posted February 10, 2015 Remember if its one of the new ones it doesn't have the original map, they changed it in 2013 I think and reduced the power according to Tuning Developments. Maybe they did that to save on coil packs, as mine now needs C replacing, had A replaced last year Alec Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
LFA 68 Report post Posted February 10, 2015 Thing with this car is that you need to drive it in the zone and a bit of track time is perfect for that. Chassis is very good and I did lol at your comments re the engine; 15% more power and an engine that felt a bit more special would have seen a classic in the making for sure. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Captain Duff 79 Report post Posted February 10, 2015 Remember if its one of the new ones it doesn't have the original map, they changed it in 2013 I think and reduced the power according to Tuning Developments. Maybe they did that to save on coil packs, as mine now needs C replacing, had A replaced last year Alec I'm sure Richard can confirm, but the revised Toyota map introduced in the UK in early 2013 was to correct the rough idle/stall issues of the early cars, and anyone who has had a main dealer service and is not been remapped (Ecutek etc,) should have had it installed even if they have an early pre-2013 car. It should not have affected power, although there may be some link here to the US revised map (that we didn't get) that was around (I think) some risks when changing gear at very high revs that put strain on the piston seals. In fact the unchanged power is surely confirmed by the identical official performance figures from 2012 to 2015 models? The one I'm not at all sure about is the story that Subaru released their own revised map that slightly increased horses (although not enough that you'd probably notice). Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Musketeer 25 Report post Posted February 10, 2015 Hi Nickfrog. Use the engine over 4500rpm. It's a lively beast at those revs. You'll have to use the gears to use it, but it's fun. I usually drop to 3rd gear for a good corner, and even lower if it's a sharp one. The extra revs allow you to balance the car better on the throttle imo. Feels realy good to cancel understeer with throttle induced oversteer. Keep playing, you'll get it eventually. Cheers Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kodename47 446 Report post Posted February 11, 2015 Remember if its one of the new ones it doesn't have the original map, they changed it in 2013 I think and reduced the power according to Tuning Developments. Maybe they did that to save on coil packs, as mine now needs C replacing, had A replaced last year Alec I've seen no changes to anything that should affect performance between earlier and later ECU revisions. Timing and fueling are all the same.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mike 458 Report post Posted February 11, 2015 I'll see if I can dig up my dyno result but comparing mine and Alec's results, there is more fuel at the top end and power drops off quicker on mine. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kodename47 446 Report post Posted February 11, 2015 I'll see if I can dig up my dyno result but comparing mine and Alec's results, there is more fuel at the top end and power drops off quicker on mine.Fuel trims prossibly, I've looked through A00, A01 and A02 ROMs and there is no difference in any of the fuel tables or MAF scaling and both timing tables. Haven't seen any of the older ones however I doubt that these are any different and most are running at least the A00 calibration.There are variations across the different regional ROMs though. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
