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remal

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  1. Like
    remal reacted to JamesP1991 in Blitz Suction Intake Kit & Blitz LM Panel Filter For Sale   
    Blitz Intake pipe has been provisionally sold to Matt (Remal) so only the panel filter is left guys!

    I'm looking for £25 or a sensible offer near so get in quick before someone beats you to it
  2. Like
    remal got a reaction from Keethos in Many thanks to Fensport again   
    Well the mods have started.
     
    Bought from these nice people a fin aerial and now the HKS Super hybrid filter 
     
    cheers again 
  3. Like
    remal reacted to smudge in Why modify a new car - I don't need this explained to me but...   
    Just do the mods in the garage while she's asleep
     
    When she asks why it's much louder than before, just tell her she's getting old and clearly going mental
  4. Like
    remal got a reaction from Marshmallow in Banzai Mag Japfest write up about the club   
    best I could do was take a PIC on my phone . hope you can read it

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
  5. Like
    remal got a reaction from rob275 in New Mini's   
    Old  Mini yeaaa new mini. Not a fan at all. Especially all spin off's. Mini SUV, mini town, Mini coupe, Mini city etc... I may have made a few of those up but you get the idea 
  6. Like
    remal got a reaction from Keethos in A few of my interests   
    As i'm enjoying the forum and people more and more I thought I would share with you lot a few of my other interests and toys by the way of a few vids I posted up time to time
     
    Older TD in my Tiger Supercat
     
     
     
     
    And a Fun day at Anglesey on my Blade 
     

     
     
  7. Like
    remal got a reaction from Keethos in A few of my interests   
    As i'm enjoying the forum and people more and more I thought I would share with you lot a few of my other interests and toys by the way of a few vids I posted up time to time
     
    Older TD in my Tiger Supercat
     
     
     
     
    And a Fun day at Anglesey on my Blade 
     

     
     
  8. Like
    remal reacted to smudge in Best Way to protect wheels   
    Ah yes, back in stock now
     
    Order placed
  9. Like
    remal got a reaction from rob275 in Best Way to protect wheels   
    Bought the C5 and thanks all 
  10. Like
    remal reacted to Foulsmell in Best Way to protect wheels   
    Optiseal is v good and you get a lot more for your money. Just wipe on thin and no need to buff.

    http://www.cleanyourcar.co.uk/sealants/optimum-opti-seal/prod_775.html
  11. Like
    remal reacted to chillismoke in Best Way to protect wheels   
    I use C5 it's good but it still takes with my ocd ages to get them perfect. Autobrite directs "purple rain is good for a deep clean, it would probably dissolve any sealant already applied to the alloy though
  12. Like
    remal reacted to Mark-in-Stoke in Best Way to protect wheels   
    C5 is really very very good, lasted on mine for well over a year with no sign of wearing off.
  13. Like
    remal reacted to chillismoke in Best Way to protect wheels   
    Get some G1 & G2 as well, you will love it
  14. Like
    remal got a reaction from Marshmallow in Banzai Mag Japfest write up about the club   
    best I could do was take a PIC on my phone . hope you can read it

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
  15. Like
    remal got a reaction from Marshmallow in Banzai Mag Japfest write up about the club   
    best I could do was take a PIC on my phone . hope you can read it

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
  16. Like
    remal got a reaction from Marshmallow in Banzai Mag Japfest write up about the club   
    best I could do was take a PIC on my phone . hope you can read it

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
  17. Like
    remal reacted to chunck in ready to ride   
    I've been an owner for 14 months and I'm looking to start being a little more active with a club.
    Joined the Facebook group a few weeks back in search of the best forum and needless to say you guys seem to be the friendliest and most active which I would like to get involved with.

    So a little about myself I am a BMW tech working in Stafford, I brought my gt86 back in April 2014 from Wolverhampton Toyota and have been in love with it since. I'm probably best known for my dry sense of humour and miserable face and hope I'll fit in around here quite well (in which I mean no offence i know you're nothing like that yourselves).

    Now the important stuff. The car, she is a 14 plate pearl white, black leather red stitch interior with a centre arm rest for lazy gear changing days (there isn't many of these). I'm hoping soon to start my long list of modification with a new set of wheels!

    And here is a picture of her (if I can work this website yet)


    Cheers for reading and looking forward to getting involved

    Dan
  18. Like
    remal got a reaction from Marshmallow in Banzai Mag Japfest write up about the club   
    best I could do was take a PIC on my phone . hope you can read it

    Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk
  19. Like
    remal got a reaction from Tareim in Banzai Mag Japfest write up about the club   
    Sorry if posted already I have searched and not seen this posted yet 
     
    Anyone have the latest Banzai mag?
     
    Nice little article about the club and support you lot gave to japfest at Castle combe. A few pics and nice little thanks to everyone on their for making the effort to make it the largest gathering of 86's and BRZ
     
     
    Just thought I would mention 
  20. Like
    remal got a reaction from Gringosteve in Banzai Mag Japfest write up about the club   
    In work at the moment but I will try when I can 
  21. Like
    remal got a reaction from Tareim in Banzai Mag Japfest write up about the club   
    Sorry if posted already I have searched and not seen this posted yet 
     
    Anyone have the latest Banzai mag?
     
    Nice little article about the club and support you lot gave to japfest at Castle combe. A few pics and nice little thanks to everyone on their for making the effort to make it the largest gathering of 86's and BRZ
     
     
    Just thought I would mention 
  22. Like
    remal got a reaction from Keethos in USB slot question   
    I use the USB with a micro UBS with 16gig memory. Fill it up with various playlists etc... And I use the cigarette lighter socket with a twin micro cig socket so I have another 2 which pumps out 2A
     
    this cam in handy for charging up my Nexus 6 and running my Tom tom 6000 when touring europe at the end of May. 
  23. Like
    remal reacted to rob275 in OEM+ Audio Install (Active Suspension)   
    Hi All,
     
    After reading through the supplied guide I decided to follow it but I did do a few things differently, I will also go in to a bit more detail for those that are considering the OEM Audio+ kit (which despite a few issues fits very well) I believe that my issues were perhaps due to me not providing as much info as I should have and the fact they were pushing to get the kit to me before Christmas.
     
    Once I get my studio mic I will record some good quality audio from the car so that you can get a feel to how crisp it sounds. I will add you can achieve a better install for the money with aftermarket components. However if you want something that fits superbly well in to the factory headunit with a loom already made up, this is probably a kit you should consider... That said, it doesn't sound bad and definitely packs a punch.
     
    The Guide
     
    Step 1
     
    First off you want to do the following:
     
    1. Unlock both doors
    2. Open the boot
    3. lift the bonnet up
     
    This is because you are going to disconnect the battery, if you don't do this you are sure to blow a few fuses along the way and you will curse yourself when sods law you don't have any spares in your garage
     
    So disconnect the wires from the negative terminal, tuck them to the right of the battery so they don't pop back up and re-attach themselves.. Something they will want to do after being on the terminal for so long.
     

     
    Step 2
     
    Next you want to head over to either your driver or passenger seat and remove both the headunit surround and the headunit itself..
     
    To do this get a flathead screwdriver and a thin microfibre clock of some kitchen paper will do also (to prevent any unwanted scratches) If you are a rebel, feel free to do without.
     
    The below image shows where to place the flathead screddriver, there will be a small hole on the right side of the surround begin prising it off from here.
     

     
    For reference here is where the clips are situated on the surround
     

     
    Once this is off you will need to remove the four 10mm Hex nuts holding the headunit in place, shown below in the image
     

     
    Disconnect the following cables, you may want to reference this image later when connecting it all back up, though it shouldn't be a major issue!
     

     
    Step 3
     
    Next you will need to remove the drivers side trim pieces at the front (In the majority of aftermarket installs you would be doing this for both sides to prevent alternator whine, this loom will only run up one side)
     
    Place your hand roughly where mine is in the image and pull straight up. I wouldn't be too worried about snapping it, it will take some pulling and is fairly flexible. Work along until it is off.
     

     
    Next you will need to remove the trim piece around the bonnet catch, there is one pop rivet and two green panel clips holding this on, Undo the pop rivet shown in the image. Then get your fingers under the panel next to the door seal and push it out and towards the pedals
     

     
    Note: Check both green clips come off of the chassis, if one is left on, remove it with either a clip removal tool or a flathead screwdriver(using a microfiber again)
     

     
    Step 4
     
    Getting there... now on to the rear, we need to remove the seat and the rear trim piece
     
    First loosen the door seal around the back trim
     

     
    Next up there is a 10mm hex Nut butting in to an L bracket holding the seat in place, remove this
     

     
    With one hand push down on the back of the seat, with your other hand grab the L bracket and pull up, this will unhinge the seat
     

     
    How there is one pop rivet which was hidden by the seat you will see which is shown below, remove this.
     

     
    Drop the rear seats down, you will see two pop rivets, remove these also. That's all the pop rivets fixing the rear trim in place, unfortunately there are a fair few panel clips
     

     
    The way I removed this panel, on the left side of the panel where the door seal was there will be a gap along this edge, begin pulling here.
     

     
    Pull at the lower locations shown here also
     

     
    Are you still struggling? Lets hope not, if you are, here is an image below for reference of where the clips are situated on the panel...
     

     
    Ok we are going a bit too quick, by now around an hour should have passed if it's your first time removing these pieces, if not they tend to come off a little easier and you can do this in around 30 mins when you get good at it
     
    Now go grab yourself a cup of tea and feel please that you got this far hopefully with no broken clips...
     
    Step 5
     
    Now we have all the trim pieces out we can start with the small amount of chassis modification that needs to be done
     
    There will be two speed nuts, attached to the Subwoofer enclosure, get these off as we need to slip these on to some brackets.. 
     
    Note: You will end up with two pop rivets left over after the install, this is where they have come from!
     
    The first bracket can be found where the bottom pop rivet came out of that was holding the rear trim piece in place, there will be two holes on this and a bend on the bracket. Grab a pair of needle nosed pliers and bend it so that it is relatively straight. Don't worry about scratching it, you won't see it and honestly the speed nut will scratch it anyway.... Attach Speed nut to the bracket
     

     

     
    Now in the boot there will be a pop rivet directly inside, next to the rubber seal, pop it off, pull back the carpet around the hole and there will be a bracket. Place the speed nut on here
     

     

     
    It's important to place the correct speed nut on the correct bracket, the one on the allen bolt goes on to the bracket next to the rubber seal...
     
    Step 6
     
    Now we need to route the main loom, infact the only loom, and this is where my guide will differ. OEM + say to put the trim back after routing the cable, we won't be doing this until after we have got the wire through the grommet as it's a tight fit and will just waste your time when you realise you don't have enough loom at the bulkhead right? Correct 
     
    One end of the loom will have 3 multiple pinned connectors.. From memory I believe they were a 6 pin, 10 pin and a 12 pin. This is irrelevant in the grand scheme of things, unless you have a fetish for even numbers on electrical connectors....
     
    We will start with the end with the most connectors rub it behind the seatbelts and in to the boot leaving roughly as much as i have, for those with the normal OEM+ Install you just need to leave enough loom to get behind the enclosure. For those with the Active suspension loom it will split, the Amplifier is mounted on the subwoofer enclosure however the DSP Amplifier will be placed on the left side of the boot (We will get to this later)
     

     
    You will have an earth wire on the subwoofer loom (yellow shrink skin over the crimp terminal). Just beflow the rear quarter window is a gold connector, this is your earth. Undo this 10mm hex nut and place the earth wire on to of the earth wires already there.
     

     
    Now that is done we can run the cable through the cable tunnel, there is a which oblong tube* (Do these even exist  ) It has 3 white clips running along it, unclip this and fold it back, the carpet is stapled to it. 
     

     
    Now I will apologise here, i'm missing a picture for you, I forgot one (doh)... Within this tunnel there are more clips, undo these and tuck the loom in to this and clip it back up.
     
    It will go in from the boot like this
     

     
    And come out in the drivers footwell like this (run it to where I have annotated with red circle)
     

     
    Next up OEM+ say to cable tie the loom to the grey cable shown below, this is located above the pedals. I would honestly leave it loose for now
     

     
    Step 7
     
    This part is probably the trickiest part of the install, they don't go in to enough detail on how to successfully get through the grommet, luckily this one isn't tricky if you know how to do it!
     
    Above the pedals to the right will be this grommet (use a torch) there is a nipple on the other side that when cut will make a convenient hole (presumably there for the JBL OEM install) the hole is unfortunately on the top side of the grommet, i've marked roughly where it is below.
     

     
    Now that you know where is is , head out to the bonnet and adjacent to the Master Brake Cylinder you will see the grommet with a convenient nipple on it, cut the tip with a stanley knife, the guide says to cut it all off, just put a slice half way through. This will be fine.
     

     
    This is now the tricky bit, we need to get the power cables through this grommet, there is a 14 Gauge and a 12 Gauge cable so luckily not all that thick. Get a metal rod (which is not too thick and can bend but not too thin so that it bends when forge is on it. Get some electrical wire around 40cm in length each. Slice the elctrical wire and take one wire out of it. Tape this and the metal rod together with electrical tape. Now push the metal rob through the grommet. It should go through easily, if its not, wiggle it until it slides through freely. I can assure you there is already a hole there for it so no need to force it! If you force it you may slice one of the electrical wires already running through it.
     
    Once it's through pull it through to the other side. Now remove the metal rod and tape the power cables from the loom to the electrical wire. Go back to the bonnet side and pull it through. (I've probably saved you around an hour of crying trying to get it through 
     
    Step 8
     
    Now that is all done, you need to route the loom up above the pedals and in to the headunit bay. I honestly can't get pictures of where to route these, but directly to the right if you look in the hole where the headunit came out of you should be able to see the pedals. It's best to get another pair of hands to grab the loom as you feed it up.
     
    Once that's done, conenct up the OEM+ loom to the OEM loom as shown below
     

     
     
    Next plug the OEM+ Loom in to the Headunit and also the other OEM loom connectors which are sitting around (Should be 3 of these) Once done it should look something like this..
     

     
     
    Well done, now put the headunit back in! and clip the trim back on!
     

     
    Guide to be continued....
  24. Like
    remal reacted to JamesP1991 in What Exhaust   
    Problem solved for you Remal, he does  
     
    http://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/GB/GT86_Greddy_SP_Elite_Axle_Back_Exhaust/GT86-10117202-_.aspx
  25. Like
    remal reacted to smudge in What Exhaust   
    Told ya

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