spikyone
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Posts posted by spikyone
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1 hour ago, Lauren said:You gain some torque and lose some top end. It depends what you want of course. It won't make bigger peak numbers as we've seen.
Peak numbers don't really count for much in isolation; this is about how those numbers are delivered. Based on the MotoIQ graphs, the top end loss on a stock engine is meaningless. You shouldn't get hung up on a tiny tail of the graph.
The FA20 is so peaky that the BPB gains overall area under the curve; you're only losing from 6800rpm to the redline and when you upshift at redline, you'll drop to around 5500rpm (depending on gear). From 5500rpm-6800rpm you have a significant torque/power gain that more than offsets the loss above 6800rpm.
Subjectively it might feel a tiny bit less enthusiastic as it won't peak at redline any more, but objectively it will make your car faster. It doesn't lose anywhere below 6800rpm so it's also better in everyday driving.
The thing I want to understand is whether it gives the same effect and magnitude on a car that's already been given the TD treatment. If it does, then it could be a great mod for anyone running NA.
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That's a shame. I think the most interesting comparison would actually be TD NA kit only vs. TD NA kit with BPBs. We all know that the TD kit works and many of us have it already, so it would have been good to find out whether the BPBs still give a worthwhile benefit on a tuned car. It doesn't need to make much bigger peak numbers, as long as it shifts the torque curve to the left as MotoIQ suggest.
@Mike@TD.co.uk might be missing a chance to sell us more stuff...
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I have stock wheels available.
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Wow, this thread has been quiet for a while!
One of my near neighbours has got themself a red facelift GT86 - just wondering if it's anyone on here? It's in Taw Hill, there's now three of us within about a 30 second walk!
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I also have a set knocking around, slightly closer to you than Kevin maybe (sorry Kevin)
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8 hours ago, Swinginking said:Yes, that's the one.
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Toyota's eBay shop sells the studs, they're about £6-7 each from memory - and yes, they are individual studs. eBay is their official online parts shop. Nuts shouldn't be hard to come by either.
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Interested to see how those black interior bits look; the silver plastic does look a bit naff but I can't decide whether it needs something that isn't black/grey to lift the interior a bit. I actually fitted the AliExpress HVAC trims to mine yesterday and it's a big improvement, the photo doesn't really do it justice:
Only trouble is it highlights how cheap the T-pattern fascia around the controls looks...
Deacon reacted to this -
6 hours ago, gavin_t said:I had these fitted along with the white line positive shift bush whilst having my NA kit fitted at TD.
I am going to go against the grain and say I don't like them and preferred it before
Admittedly haven't tried it on track again since the mods but all I feel it has done is make the shift stiffer and increased transmission noise around town at low speeds
I'm surprised by that, I find that it takes barely any effort to move between gears, almost like it's helping to guide you in.
Transmission noise is down to the mount. The solution to that is getting yourself an antisocial exhaust, you won't notice the transmission noise.
gavin_t and Andrew Smith reacted to this -
1 minute ago, Varelco said:2 hours ago, BRZ-123 said:I am keen to hear more about this. Does it solve the gear box notchiness when cold or makes moving from 3 to 2 easier when cold? Or is it a feel thing and is not solving a fundamental characteristic/ issue of the gear box as it is near perfect for me when warm. Never been able to fully understand this but will value your thoughts.
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Its just a feel thing. The shift spring is one of the best mods for the 86, it gives the gear change a rifle bolt feel, its lovely and you don't get bored of it.
Exactly this. No significant difference when cold, and I would've agreed with the "near perfect when warm" thing before I had it done. That's why it's such a great mod, it's surprising that it can be so much better, and for not much money.
BRZ-123 reacted to this -
3 hours ago, Montatron said:Sorry mate! I didn't read that right what so ever 😜
Yeah, the guys from tuning development said they were good when I get the manifold done. I'm actually very tempted by the gear box bush insert too. Then I started wondering about the diff and and rear sub frame inserts too.
The simple fact that they're pretty cheap too makes them very tempting. But then you get the "if they're cheap, are they crap" thing 😜
The shift spring and gearbox insert are great modifications that should be as much of a no-brainer as the TD NA kit. Ignore that they're cheap; they are seriously effective.
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Nice colour! Presumably you mean the TD NA kit?
You won't get much extra power from the GT86 without going forced induction. Almost 100bhp/litre from an NA engine (compliant with modern emissions regs!) is already very high. Most new NA cars with higher bhp/litre will cost you £100k+.
The TD NA kit will liberate 15-20bhp, but offers a huge gain in mid-range torque. It makes a big difference to the way the car drives. Their price includes fitting and mapping, and is very good value IMO. Lots of members here have had it done, and like @MartinT I would also recommend it.
Mike@TD.co.uk, Angelina and Tom reacted to this -
22 minutes ago, Nimz said:Vauxhall Mokka courtesy car, it's like they never took into account actual human dimensions when designing it. Everything felt like it was too far away, steering wheel obscured the dials, terrible visibility, just a complete lack of ergonomic design. Hateful thing.
Not a fan of Vauxhall in general but that seemed like a particularly bad one. Using the tagline "don't blend in" to advertise a car that redefined bland was hilarious.
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Hyundai Getz 1.1 for me. Comfortable seats, but otherwise entirely hateful and frankly a bit scary. The steering was so vague that you could go through a corner ten times and never use the same amount of lock, the ride was terrible, the engine was asthmatic, and the interior plastics make a GT86 look like a Rolls Royce. It was ten years out of date on the day it was launched. Unmitigated junk. For balance, I had a 1st-gen i20 as a hire car a few years later. My heart sank when they gave me the keys, but it was night and day better than the Getz, and I thought it was entirely justified that it won a few budget car awards in the motoring press.
On the subject of Merc though, I was given an automatic diesel E-Class (E220?) as a courtesy car when the fuzz hit my parked GT86. The gearbox on that thing was appalling. In the Eco mode, it refused to downshift as you slowed down. So if you were braking towards a roundabout but realised you had just enough space to enter without stopping, you'd then find that it had to shift down several gears before you could accelerate. However much space you thought you needed, you had to double it for fear of being broadside across the road in front of someone, with no power to get out of the way.
The alternative was the sport mode, which tried to redline in every gear, accompanied by all the aural delights you'd get from a Routemaster bus.
It also had Mercedes' stupid foot-operated parking brake. Inexplicable and pointless.
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14 hours ago, Angelina said:Think may that may have been BS as it doesn’t tell you which tyre it is! Basically unless you can see which tyre is low you need to check them all
. Protyre were very helpful and knowledgeable, they done a temporary fix (new valve) and suggested I went to the dealership. Also didn’t charge me for it 
Sent from my iPad using TapatalkWhilst our car doesn't tell you which tyre it is, each wheel has its own control module that is paired to the valve sensor, so it is correct that you would need to put the sensors back in the same place or re-code the system.
As for cold days, that's not something you should ever need to worry about. A drop of 5psi would always trigger the light, but if you set your tyre pressures to 35psi on a day when the air temperature is 30 degrees, it would just trigger the TPMS light when the temperature dips below freezing if the system uses a 10% threshold. If it's 20%, as Toyota suggest on their blog article, it would need to be -30 degrees to trigger.
(A word of warning - ignore Toyota's bad advice to press the reset button after re-inflating your tyres - the TPMS light automatically goes out after ~30 seconds and all you'll do by pressing the button is cause the system to not work properly)
Angelina reacted to this -
Having had no time to look at it over the last couple of weeks, the car was back in with Toyota yesterday for its 3 year service and 1st MOT, and they took a look whilst it was on their ramps.
They said that everything looked good underneath (no mention of the ABS/VSC then). Apparently there's a "non-original exhaust section"
and they think the rubbers needed adjusting. It seems to have done the job, although I've only driven it on the commute so far.
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7 hours ago, Cerastes said:Most of these issues should have been sorted under warranty by previous owners. I must admit I'm not familiar with a lot of those you listed.
However, there is an issue I have encountered and apparently others have reported it. The electric windows scratching the glass.
I'm not impressed with the amount of issues I have had owning my gt86. Some common and some that only I have encountered as far as I know. Compared to my previous car swift sport, I had absolutely no issues with owning it for 4 or 5 years. I regret selling it.
I've had the rust under bonnet.
The scratching of electric windows.
The rubber door sill on drivers side gets pulled away from seal when window closes.
When you put the rear seats flat and then put them back. The latches/buttons almost come lose.
I guess we can all list the battery as an issue? Or maybe it was intended to be a low capacity battery.
Edit: maybe I'm nitpicking, but I expect better build quality for something this price and from Toyota.
I saw a Boxster with heavily scratched windows the other day. I know Toyota benchmarked the Cayman so maybe they thought it was a design feature. Mine mostly stay closed; the car has climate control (I think even the Primo had a basic A/C) so you don't really need them open.
I haven't experienced any of the issues in that first post, but my car is a later MY16 and some (e.g. coil packs) had been fixed by then.
The issues with conrods and oil starvation only apply to heavily modified cars as far as I'm aware; the rods don't like big torque from taking FI too far, and oil starvation comes from running slicks on track.
Fuel pump is just some noise, nothing actually wrong AFAIK.
In short, if you go on the internet looking for common "problems" with any car, you're going to find them, and the people that have experienced them will be vocal telling you about them. People don't, generally, go online telling the world if they've never had a problem with their car.
Assuming you're buying a used car, it's probably not going to be 100% perfect anyway.
Angelina reacted to this -
22 hours ago, Ade said:Have you got a clip of the noise?
The heat shield above the read back box can rattle.
Also you'd be surprised how much the stock back box on stock rubber moves around under cornering and braking so maybe something there.
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Afraid not. I'll see if I can get something over the weekend.
I'm running the TD catback, I think that uses the stock mounts? The tailpipes don't seem to move much but I'll try and get under there over the weekend. When it first happened I wondered whether the tailpipes were rattling off that lower bumper/diffuser panel so I wouldn't be surprised if it's something around there.
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7 minutes ago, nerdstrike said:I've had a devil of a job finding CR1632 batteries. Had to resort to ebay.
No idea if these take the same battery. Best bet is to pry open the shell and look. It'll probably have a notch in the side you can twist something like a 1p/2p coin in to pop it open. Shouldn't be a problem as long as you're gentle with it.
If it is the same battery, I couldn't find them in normal shops either - but Halfords sell them.
(I feel a little dirty recommending Halfords
)
Angelina reacted to this -
16 minutes ago, Andrew Smith said:Your dripping water will be the a/c, I noticed mine had a steady drip around about in line with the front of the passenger foot well. The suggestion of abs is a fair call as it does seem a bit too eager to trigger especially when braking over bumps or when turning in and if you add a down shift in then that would only add to locking up. Having said that you would be seeing the flashing light if it was abs. Does it make this noise when braking really hard in a straight line?
I haven't noticed it happening when braking in a straight line, and it's making the noise when I'm turning enthusiastically on a neutral throttle. I'll take it out later and turn off the VSC/TC, I might even try the pedal dance, but the car feels far more planted than it did on the Primacies so I'd be really surprised if it's ABS/TC/VCS. They lost grip all the time, and I never got any sort of noise with them.
Right now, I'm with @nerdstrike on it coming from the diff, unless there is something loose that isn't noticeable without jacking the car up. The Toyota tech thought it was coming from OSR, whereas from the driver's seat it sounds like NSR, so it's probably somewhere along the middle of the car. I have next to zero knowledge on diffs though so wouldn't have the first clue what would cause that sort of noise.
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Update: I took it to Toyota this morning, one of their techs came out for a ride, I replicated the noise. He asked if the wheels were aftermarket and suggested it was something to do with them affecting the ABS. I strongly disagree; I wasn't doing anything that I would have expected to be triggering the ABS even on Primacies, never mind PS4. There were no warning lights on the dashboard, and at 225/40/R18 the difference in diameter vs. stock is no more than the difference between new and worn tyres.
On my way back from the dealer I also tried taking a couple of tighter corners a bit harder (but not on the limit by any stretch) in 3rd, probably doing around 30-35mph, and was able to trigger the noise without any downshift, so it's definitely nothing to do with the clutch.
Toyota have said they will investigate when it's in for a service in a couple of weeks, but in the meantime I'm going to be looking for someone with a big flat driveway so that I can get properly underneath and have a better look myself. If only I lived nearer to RRG...
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7 hours ago, nerdstrike said:I would say that extended warranties are a bit of a gamble in terms of investment versus pay-off. You're guaranteeing that you're paying out on the offchance that it's cheaper in the long run. I'd rather mitigate my costs by spannering, preventative maintenace and sourcing parts.
You're not even guaranteeing a payout, because unless there is a known recurring issue there is hardly anything that will fail on a 5 year old car that is actually claimable. At that age, most failures will be wear and tear which is not covered. IMHO extended warranties are virtually never worth the money.
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No luck from any of those, but a bit of a play showed the symptoms aren't quite what I thought; it's actually making the noise as I downshift under harder braking. The noise starts as soon as I put the clutch pedal down. I'm getting it going right and left whilst downshifting, didn't get the chance to try doing it in a straight line.
Possibly unrelated, there were also some drips under the car, coming from the centre roughly in line with the "fender garnish". Seems to be water, so it may just be condensation from the A/C system, and I don't usually look underneath every time I park so it might be perfectly normal. Other fluid levels are fine.
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6 minutes ago, nerdstrike said:Maurice's suggestion is a good one. You could also consider looking underneath. Give the exhaust pipes a tentative wiggle, look for dangling bits of plastic and/or loose wheel arch liners.
I'm wondering if part of your exhaust is moving around.
That thought occurred to me too, but the exhaust seemed pretty well fixed in place. Arch liners and brake disc shields are a good shout too, I'll do some more prodding around later.
Got it booked in for Wednesday so if I can't find anything I should have an answer then, at least.
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You can't infer anything from two different cars tested months (maybe years) apart. 9bhp is well within the normal variation between engines for the FA20, mine made more power stock than Ben's did with the BPB. You need to compare the same car with and without the BPB, ideally tested immediately before and after fitting, to see whether it's still beneficial if you already have the TD kit.