vanko25

Can't miss this one! Count me and my stocky GT in. 
Regards,
Ivan

Well I suppose it's time that I officially introduced my newest weapon to tackle the Toyota Sprint Series with. As some of you may already know, I recently purchased a Gen 6 Toyota Celica ST202 which some of you will recognise. That's right, I'm the proud new owner of Pete's Celica Zombie Response Vehicle (a fellow TSS member) to do battle against Pete himself, Rich (Riceburner) and many more next year.
 
Even though I had a blast competing against Mike, new comer Alex and also new comer Tomáš this year and finishing 4th in class N1 Street, after my 2nd track accident at the hands of Croft and even with people telling me how well I've handled my crashes, I don't think I could mentally handle a 3rd. Even after gaining more confidence after the final round at Snetterton and even after the recent CAT Driver Training course @ Millbrook Proving Ground which was a awesome as always, I think I've gotten to the point where I want to really compete and I don't think I could with my 86 for the fear of another accident in it.
 
So I finally made the decision to get myself a dedicated sprint car specifically for the TSS since its extremely expensive to insure the 86 to compete in. Since Pete was selling his almost track ready Celica, it was the perfect opportunity to put my mind at ease with a car that I wouldn't have a problem binning which means I can hopefully push the car to its limits without too much worries. Not only that, but since the Celica is in class C Street, I feel I have a good chance to compete for 1st since there's no Lauren, Kevin or any other pro drivers in this class, there should be some very good battles next year.
 
I will still be tracking my 86 as it's easy and cheap to get insurance for, it'll be a shame not to push such an awesome car and it's a shame I couldn't stick with a RWD car but I wanted to keep the spend to a minimum.....though I might add a couple of bits to the Celica 😋
 
BRING ON NEXT YEAR!!!
 
FYI I know I'm probably not the best poster child for the TSS but it is a great event to take part in, it can be a safe place to learn about your Toyota without the worry about anything else, unlike track days, it's just you on track by yourself so no pressure from anyone else. If you're interested, please don't hesitate to ask.
 

 

 

 

 
I've got a TRD LSD to fit at some point and I want to look into getting some new seats for the car since while wearing my crash helmet, I currently hit the roof which means racing slightly slouched or with a crooked neck.  To help keep spend on this car down, I'm actually thinking of sticking the 86 seats into this which means I can get myself some nice fancy seats for the 86 (I said I'd keep the spend down on the Celica....never said anything about the 86 :P).  The only other thing I really want to look at in the mean time is a brakes, after driving her hard at Donington last Monday, the brakes really don't fill me with confidence so might need to see what I can do to up rate them.

Hello all,
Me( Ivan). Some probably met me at the West Mids meeting today

And her (stock jappy looking to be tweaked) 

This is me (Jeff):-



And my 86:-

This is me with my car when I first brought it....
 

 
And this is what it looks like now after KevinA got his hands on it!
 

Me
 

 
Baloo
 

An old pic (2002) but I couldn't resist, standing in one of my previous cars:
 

 
My current wheels:
 
Untitled by Lauren Blighton, on Flickr
 
Untitled by Lauren Blighton, on Flickr
 
 

Me and my baby:
 

 
Keith

Just got a red gt86 week ago. Count me in please!

Hi All,
 
After reading through the supplied guide I decided to follow it but I did do a few things differently, I will also go in to a bit more detail for those that are considering the OEM Audio+ kit (which despite a few issues fits very well) I believe that my issues were perhaps due to me not providing as much info as I should have and the fact they were pushing to get the kit to me before Christmas.
 
Once I get my studio mic I will record some good quality audio from the car so that you can get a feel to how crisp it sounds. I will add you can achieve a better install for the money with aftermarket components. However if you want something that fits superbly well in to the factory headunit with a loom already made up, this is probably a kit you should consider... That said, it doesn't sound bad and definitely packs a punch.
 
The Guide
 
Step 1
 
First off you want to do the following:
 
1. Unlock both doors
2. Open the boot
3. lift the bonnet up
 
This is because you are going to disconnect the battery, if you don't do this you are sure to blow a few fuses along the way and you will curse yourself when sods law you don't have any spares in your garage
 
So disconnect the wires from the negative terminal, tuck them to the right of the battery so they don't pop back up and re-attach themselves.. Something they will want to do after being on the terminal for so long.
 

 
Step 2
 
Next you want to head over to either your driver or passenger seat and remove both the headunit surround and the headunit itself..
 
To do this get a flathead screwdriver and a thin microfibre clock of some kitchen paper will do also (to prevent any unwanted scratches) If you are a rebel, feel free to do without.
 
The below image shows where to place the flathead screddriver, there will be a small hole on the right side of the surround begin prising it off from here.
 

 
For reference here is where the clips are situated on the surround
 

 
Once this is off you will need to remove the four 10mm Hex nuts holding the headunit in place, shown below in the image
 

 
Disconnect the following cables, you may want to reference this image later when connecting it all back up, though it shouldn't be a major issue!
 

 
Step 3
 
Next you will need to remove the drivers side trim pieces at the front (In the majority of aftermarket installs you would be doing this for both sides to prevent alternator whine, this loom will only run up one side)
 
Place your hand roughly where mine is in the image and pull straight up. I wouldn't be too worried about snapping it, it will take some pulling and is fairly flexible. Work along until it is off.
 

 
Next you will need to remove the trim piece around the bonnet catch, there is one pop rivet and two green panel clips holding this on, Undo the pop rivet shown in the image. Then get your fingers under the panel next to the door seal and push it out and towards the pedals
 

 
Note: Check both green clips come off of the chassis, if one is left on, remove it with either a clip removal tool or a flathead screwdriver(using a microfiber again)
 

 
Step 4
 
Getting there... now on to the rear, we need to remove the seat and the rear trim piece
 
First loosen the door seal around the back trim
 

 
Next up there is a 10mm hex Nut butting in to an L bracket holding the seat in place, remove this
 

 
With one hand push down on the back of the seat, with your other hand grab the L bracket and pull up, this will unhinge the seat
 

 
How there is one pop rivet which was hidden by the seat you will see which is shown below, remove this.
 

 
Drop the rear seats down, you will see two pop rivets, remove these also. That's all the pop rivets fixing the rear trim in place, unfortunately there are a fair few panel clips
 

 
The way I removed this panel, on the left side of the panel where the door seal was there will be a gap along this edge, begin pulling here.
 

 
Pull at the lower locations shown here also
 

 
Are you still struggling? Lets hope not, if you are, here is an image below for reference of where the clips are situated on the panel...
 

 
Ok we are going a bit too quick, by now around an hour should have passed if it's your first time removing these pieces, if not they tend to come off a little easier and you can do this in around 30 mins when you get good at it
 
Now go grab yourself a cup of tea and feel please that you got this far hopefully with no broken clips...
 
Step 5
 
Now we have all the trim pieces out we can start with the small amount of chassis modification that needs to be done
 
There will be two speed nuts, attached to the Subwoofer enclosure, get these off as we need to slip these on to some brackets.. 
 
Note: You will end up with two pop rivets left over after the install, this is where they have come from!
 
The first bracket can be found where the bottom pop rivet came out of that was holding the rear trim piece in place, there will be two holes on this and a bend on the bracket. Grab a pair of needle nosed pliers and bend it so that it is relatively straight. Don't worry about scratching it, you won't see it and honestly the speed nut will scratch it anyway.... Attach Speed nut to the bracket
 

 

 
Now in the boot there will be a pop rivet directly inside, next to the rubber seal, pop it off, pull back the carpet around the hole and there will be a bracket. Place the speed nut on here
 

 

 
It's important to place the correct speed nut on the correct bracket, the one on the allen bolt goes on to the bracket next to the rubber seal...
 
Step 6
 
Now we need to route the main loom, infact the only loom, and this is where my guide will differ. OEM + say to put the trim back after routing the cable, we won't be doing this until after we have got the wire through the grommet as it's a tight fit and will just waste your time when you realise you don't have enough loom at the bulkhead right? Correct 
 
One end of the loom will have 3 multiple pinned connectors.. From memory I believe they were a 6 pin, 10 pin and a 12 pin. This is irrelevant in the grand scheme of things, unless you have a fetish for even numbers on electrical connectors....
 
We will start with the end with the most connectors rub it behind the seatbelts and in to the boot leaving roughly as much as i have, for those with the normal OEM+ Install you just need to leave enough loom to get behind the enclosure. For those with the Active suspension loom it will split, the Amplifier is mounted on the subwoofer enclosure however the DSP Amplifier will be placed on the left side of the boot (We will get to this later)
 

 
You will have an earth wire on the subwoofer loom (yellow shrink skin over the crimp terminal). Just beflow the rear quarter window is a gold connector, this is your earth. Undo this 10mm hex nut and place the earth wire on to of the earth wires already there.
 

 
Now that is done we can run the cable through the cable tunnel, there is a which oblong tube* (Do these even exist  ) It has 3 white clips running along it, unclip this and fold it back, the carpet is stapled to it. 
 

 
Now I will apologise here, i'm missing a picture for you, I forgot one (doh)... Within this tunnel there are more clips, undo these and tuck the loom in to this and clip it back up.
 
It will go in from the boot like this
 

 
And come out in the drivers footwell like this (run it to where I have annotated with red circle)
 

 
Next up OEM+ say to cable tie the loom to the grey cable shown below, this is located above the pedals. I would honestly leave it loose for now
 

 
Step 7
 
This part is probably the trickiest part of the install, they don't go in to enough detail on how to successfully get through the grommet, luckily this one isn't tricky if you know how to do it!
 
Above the pedals to the right will be this grommet (use a torch) there is a nipple on the other side that when cut will make a convenient hole (presumably there for the JBL OEM install) the hole is unfortunately on the top side of the grommet, i've marked roughly where it is below.
 

 
Now that you know where is is , head out to the bonnet and adjacent to the Master Brake Cylinder you will see the grommet with a convenient nipple on it, cut the tip with a stanley knife, the guide says to cut it all off, just put a slice half way through. This will be fine.
 

 
This is now the tricky bit, we need to get the power cables through this grommet, there is a 14 Gauge and a 12 Gauge cable so luckily not all that thick. Get a metal rod (which is not too thick and can bend but not too thin so that it bends when forge is on it. Get some electrical wire around 40cm in length each. Slice the elctrical wire and take one wire out of it. Tape this and the metal rod together with electrical tape. Now push the metal rob through the grommet. It should go through easily, if its not, wiggle it until it slides through freely. I can assure you there is already a hole there for it so no need to force it! If you force it you may slice one of the electrical wires already running through it.
 
Once it's through pull it through to the other side. Now remove the metal rod and tape the power cables from the loom to the electrical wire. Go back to the bonnet side and pull it through. (I've probably saved you around an hour of crying trying to get it through 
 
Step 8
 
Now that is all done, you need to route the loom up above the pedals and in to the headunit bay. I honestly can't get pictures of where to route these, but directly to the right if you look in the hole where the headunit came out of you should be able to see the pedals. It's best to get another pair of hands to grab the loom as you feed it up.
 
Once that's done, conenct up the OEM+ loom to the OEM loom as shown below
 

 
 
Next plug the OEM+ Loom in to the Headunit and also the other OEM loom connectors which are sitting around (Should be 3 of these) Once done it should look something like this..
 

 
 
Well done, now put the headunit back in! and clip the trim back on!
 

 
Guide to be continued....

Just got a red gt86 week ago. Count me in please!