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Luke

Engine temps in the winter

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Hi all, I’ve had a cosworth supercharger fitted for 10 months now and this is the first time heading through winter. 
I have noticed that the cars oil and coolant stay relatively cool during normal driving. Coolant 77c and oil 78c.

I fitted an oil cooler with a thermostatic flow valve that opens at 75c.

I also fitted a mishimoto thermostat to the coolant pump which runs at 70c.

Both of which help the car run really well on track but I just wondered if anyone else has noticed this and if so what they do to get it back up to 90c in winter with normal driving. 

I could blank things off but I’ve never seen another 86 with any grills blocked off.

Any help or advise would be much appreciated,

Thanks.

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Do you really mean coolant or intercooler coolant? Coolant should always run between 88C and 90C on a hot day. Mine never strays from that.

Intercooler coolant in mine runs at +15 to +20C above iAT. It won't freeze in our winters with antifreeze in it.

Sent from my Oppo X3 using Tapatalk

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8 hours ago, Deacon said:

Few things you could do that me and Will did was fit a higher temp thermostat for the oil cooler and also use a blanking plate in front of the oil cooler.

How did you blank it off? I was thinking of using some Perspex and sliding it in front on the oil cooler. What temp are your thermostatic switches in the oil cooler? 

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5 hours ago, MartinT said:

Do you really mean coolant or intercooler coolant? Coolant should always run between 88C and 90C on a hot day. Mine never strays from that.

Intercooler coolant in mine runs at +15 to +20C above iAT. It won't freeze in our winters with antifreeze in it.

Sent from my Oppo X3 using Tapatalk
 

My charge cooler temps are the same as yours 10-20c above IAT but stay stable through the rev range. 
 

My engine coolant is lower because of the mishimoto thermostat that opens at 76c instead of the oem 88c. It’s part of the Cosworth setup to run a lower temp thermostat. 

I guess the Harrop uses the oem one? 

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The oil cooler will have a small flow through always. So it's technically always working ( whether at full opening or partial).

 

Better is to put a blocker in front of the oil cooler like others have said. I have seen cardboard used here also seen JDM number plate holder which blocks part of front grille.

 

It's also impt for the oil to get above 100C on and off as fuel in oil and water in oil only vaporise above that temp. Otherwise you have oil dilution issues which are evident if you send oil for Millers used oil analysis.

 

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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23 hours ago, BRZ-123 said:

The oil cooler will have a small flow through always. So it's technically always working ( whether at full opening or partial).

 

Better is to put a blocker in front of the oil cooler like others have said. I have seen cardboard used here also seen JDM number plate holder which blocks part of front grille.

 

It's also impt for the oil to get above 100C on and off as fuel in oil and water in oil only vaporise above that temp. Otherwise you have oil dilution issues which are evident if you send oil for Millers used oil analysis.

 

Sent from my SM-G781B using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

Yeah it bleeds oil through to maintain consistent pressure. I did think about a JDM plate but that leaves the holes in the bumper exposed. You are right you do need to oil up to temp to burn off water and fuel in the oil. That’s my excuse for driving it hard every now and then. 
I’ve already got the 90c stat in the oil cooler, so I just need to create a way to block off the cooler. 
 

 

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On 10/9/2022 at 12:37 PM, MartinT said:

Intercooler coolant in mine runs at +15 to +20C above iAT. It won't freeze in our winters with antifreeze in it.
 

 

Sorry, strictly speaking, iAT is the air temperature into the engine.  It runs at +15 to +20C above ambient temperature.

My Scangauge lets me monitor it.  Today, iAT was running at 31C or +14C above ambient of 17C.

@Luke is there a performance benefit to running the engine with such a cool thermostat?

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It allows forced induction cars to run a little cooler which in turn allows a little more ignition advance, the same is true for NA but to a lesser extent. It also means more coolant flow at lower temps which in turn should keep the engine cooler when out on track. 

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1 hour ago, Luke said:

It allows forced induction cars to run a little cooler which in turn allows a little more ignition advance

My (possible simplistic) understanding is that it opens earlier but so you can run more advance slightly earlier but after a period of time your coolant is above the opening thresholds of the OEM thermostat and at this point there's no benefit, so in reality its impact is minimal and limited to the timeframe it takes your coolant to move between the performance thermostat and the OEM thermostat, and on a trackday, I expect that timeframe is measured in minutes, so probably a lap or 2, when you're warming the tires up anyway.

Happy to be corrected, I've never run one, so this is all theory on my part.

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30 minutes ago, GravelRash said:

My (possible simplistic) understanding is that it opens earlier but so you can run more advance slightly earlier but after a period of time your coolant is above the opening thresholds of the OEM thermostat and at this point there's no benefit, so in reality its impact is minimal and limited to the timeframe it takes your coolant to move between the performance thermostat and the OEM thermostat, and on a trackday, I expect that timeframe is measured in minutes, so probably a lap or 2, when you're warming the tires up anyway.

Happy to be corrected, I've never run one, so this is all theory on my part.

I had a similar thought as you and had asked Matt@Cosworth and his feedback was as under.

the low temp thermostat in the car, this is worth about 3-4 bhp on its own plus you can then get another 1.5° of spark in there as the heads are colder which results in another 3 bhp

 

Am sure Cosworth did their R&D thoroughly on it and have spent hours on testing the engine on an engine dyno which no one else has done. That is why came up with a LT Thermostat in their package. If it were just a transient gain, they wouldn't recommend it.

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Yes that makes and it which case you’d gain more from it during road driving because you won’t have the coolant temps above 90c unless you have being racing the engine a lot. 

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On 10/9/2022 at 6:04 PM, Luke said:

How did you blank it off? I was thinking of using some Perspex and sliding it in front on the oil cooler. What temp are your thermostatic switches in the oil cooler? 

Perspex sheet with holes in that I cable tie to the grill. I can't remember the exact temp now as it's a few years ago - 92° maybe?

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Thanks Deacon, I’ve used a sheet of Perspex that covers the oil cooler. Managed to cut a slot in the under tray so that it slides in under the bumper hidden from view. Guess you can’t do that if you’re running aero/ splitters or just too damn low. 
The oil gets temperature much sooner now and it sits at 89c stable. 
Also a bonus is the coolant gets warmer sooner as well because it partially blocks air flow to the radiator. 

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On 10/17/2022 at 2:26 PM, MartinT said:

I've ordered a Mishimoto 76°C thermostat for Abbey to fit on my next service.

Someone after more power? Just get the rods changed and put the small pulley on so you can crank up the boost. 

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4 hours ago, Luke said:

Someone after more power? Just get the rods changed and put the small pulley on so you can crank up the boost. 

Just get the rods changed, LOL!

No, just looking for a touch more pickup in the midrange.  It's good already, but a little more especially on a hot day would be nice.

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