Upgrading Headunit for sound quality?

[Ignited 24]

I am no expert but have used silent coat and like it. It was a lot cheaper than that link on amazon when I bought it about a year ago though. I have also used flashband too which is cheaper still but silent coat has a stronger top layer which I imagine helps and is slightly less messy to apply. I bought one sheet of dynamat but havent actually used it yet but doesnt jump out as obviously better than silent coat to look at but as I say, I am no expert.

Lots of videos on youtube about sound deadening but, as always, not always easy to know who to believe!

There seems to be a consensus though that you get most benefit from having a little sound deadening on each panel and only slight improvements as you apply more. I applied it to the floor and firewall of my MR2, just tapping the panels looking for noisy ones and putting a small bit of SC in the centre. It certainly made the car a lot quieter.

Unless you are trying to get the best sound possible, I wouldnt worry too much and just have a go.

[infernouk 8]

probably a stupid question but do you just take the door card off, peel off the plastic, and stick this stuff everywhere you can in there? Does the peeled off plastic shield need to be reapplied afterward or just stick the door card back on and its done?

[VAD17 479]

Here is what I've got. And you can see the difference between stock and Focal speakers

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[infernouk 8]

ah ok, i thought the dampening was meant to go all over the entire door and you remove that plastic?

[VAD17 479]

I left it like this, but probably should have done entire door

Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk

[JRot 13]

I silent coated the entire door, and the internal door card and the light switch controllers - my doors now weight a shit load each, I have the focals fitted... Sound deadened the boot spare wheel area, the boot lid, a few places in the dash.... Massive change in sound quality. I'm looking at doing similar to the rear speakers or just deleting them and fitting a new amp and a sub or maybe a seat delete and fit rear speakers and a sub. 

So sound deadening it all best ever decision... But an absolute ball ache. 

Still running the stock head unit;  pioneer install or tablet install. That is the question. 

[Varelco 211]

Inferno, you will want to remove the plastic membrane/water shedder yes. It does not go back on as you will wreck it getting it off, you will either want to replace it or fit an alternative. What I did was apply a self-adhesive foam sheet over the top of the inner door skin where the membrane was (Silent coat absorber 15mm). The foam acts like the membrane as its water resistant, it also adds to the sound deadening and compresses against the plastic door card which will help reduce rattles..

In terms of applying the stuff you will want to apply it to both the inner and outer door skin, the key places are any flat sheet metal areas, anywhere you will feel could vibrate, creases, corners and bends tend to be stiffer and won't necessarily need coverage. Use your knuckle to tap areas to get an idea of where to put it. The other option is complete coverage. It will take less time to completely cover the door but you will use alot more material and as a result add more weight, consider it the ultimate option. I’m no expert, as I’ve only done this to 2 cars but it seems to work well.

[infernouk 8]

1 hour ago, Varelco said:

Inferno, you will want to remove the plastic membrane/water shedder yes. It does not go back on as you will wreck it getting it off, you will either want to replace it or fit an alternative. What I did was apply a self-adhesive foam sheet over the top of the inner door skin where the membrane was (Silent coat absorber 15mm). The foam acts like the membrane as its water resistant, it also adds to the sound deadening and compresses against the plastic door card which will help reduce rattles..

In terms of applying the stuff you will want to apply it to both the inner and outer door skin, the key places are any flat sheet metal areas, anywhere you will feel could vibrate, creases, corners and bends tend to be stiffer and won't necessarily need coverage. Use your knuckle to tap areas to get an idea of where to put it. The other option is complete coverage. It will take less time to completely cover the door but you will use alot more material and as a result add more weight, consider it the ultimate option. I’m no expert, as I’ve only done this to 2 cars but it seems to work well.

so you just used a large sheet of silentcoat to replace the plastic, but also used silent coat all over the metal behind where the plastic was / rest of the door? 

should this much do the job? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silent-Coat-187x265mm-Deadening-Proofing/dp/B00NVF9OIA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1518002400&sr=8-4&keywords=silent+coat&dpID=51D7SAVbY9L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

[Varelco 211]

I used:

4mm silent coat directly behind the speaker on the outer door skin

2mm silent coat everywhere else

1 large sheet of Silent Coat Isolator 10mm (sorry i said absorber in my other post it wasnt that) to replace the plastic membrane. So that went between the door and the plastic door card.

[infernouk 8]

4 minutes ago, Varelco said:

I used:

4mm silent coat directly behind the speaker on the outer door skin

2mm silent coat everywhere else

1 large sheet of Silent Coat Isolator 10mm (sorry i said absorber in my other post it wasnt that) to replace the plastic membrane. So that went between the door and the plastic door card.

ah ok so quite a pricey exercise to do it all properly? seems amazon doesn't list thickness just sizes so ill have to track everything down 

[Varelco 211]

I got mine from https://www.deadening.co.uk/

They sell a door pack for £30 which contains 8 sheets of 2mm x 375mm x 265mm sheets. That would be ample on a pair of GT86 doors.

I spend £140 in materials in total and that was to do the whole car (floor pan, transmission tunnel, doors, quarters, rear seats).  £100 of that was on silent coat products. For what it achieved it was well worth it, I mean I would still have been satisfied if it cost me double that. You can expect to pay silly money if you was to get a firm to do it.

 

[Ledwardio 1]

52 minutes ago, infernouk said:

ah ok so quite a pricey exercise to do it all properly? seems amazon doesn't list thickness just sizes so ill have to track everything down 

Amazon does list the thickness in the description, most of the Silent Coat is 2mm bit the extra thick stuff is 4mm:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silent-Coat-Extra-375x265mm-Deadening/dp/B0045CYOWY/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1518007918&sr=8-12&keywords=silent+coat+sound+deadening

They do list a starter set which might make a decent start on 1 door:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Silent-Coat-Starter-Deadening-Proofing/dp/B0045C8QLY/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1518007918&sr=8-8&keywords=silent+coat+sound+deadening

I'm considering fitting the Focal upgrade so might do this too at the same time, would be interested to see how you get on.

[Varelco 211]

I wouldn't bother with the 'starter kit' the absorber and isolator foam sheet you get aren't big enough to be of any use. 

[infernouk 8]

2 hours ago, Varelco said:

I wouldn't bother with the 'starter kit' the absorber and isolator foam sheet you get aren't big enough to be of any use. 

so this will do both my doors well? 

https://www.deadening.co.uk/products/silent-coat-2mm-mat-door-pack

[br0wny 27]

As I'm now interested in adding a bit of sound deadening I must ask - 

plastic membrane/water shedder  < what is this? 

[Varelco 211]

2 hours ago, br0wny said:

As I'm now interested in adding a bit of sound deadening I must ask - 

plastic membrane/water shedder  < what is this? 

This...

3 hours ago, infernouk said:

so this will do both my doors well? 

https://www.deadening.co.uk/products/silent-coat-2mm-mat-door-pack

I used more than 8 sheets for both doors but I did go all out. If you are trying to stick to a budget that should cover it.

[infernouk 8]

4 minutes ago, Varelco said:

This...

 

I used more than 8 sheets for both doors but I did go all out. If you are trying to stick to a budget that should cover it.

Thanks, any pics of your efforts?

[Varelco 211]

Only of the back of the car unfortunately  I took some of the front but they were on an old phone I'll look through my backups to see If I can find them.

[Nimz 70]

Quite a detailed (potentially OTT) thread on the steps one guy went through over on the American forum - link here. 

[br0wny 27]

cheers for the pic  

[br0wny 27]

34 minutes ago, Varelco said:

Only of the back of the car unfortunately  I took some of the front but they were on an old phone I'll look through my backups to see If I can find them.

thank you for all your help here  i think ill go for the 8 sheet door pack and the isolater10 to replace the membrane when it comes to it 

[infernouk 8]

54 minutes ago, Varelco said:

Only of the back of the car unfortunately  I took some of the front but they were on an old phone I'll look through my backups to see If I can find them.

am i going to need this to replace the plastic sheeting too?

https://www.deadening.co.uk/products/silent-coat-isolator-10-large-sheet

or can i go without and use the other stuff

[Varelco 211]

12 hours ago, infernouk said:

am i going to need this to replace the plastic sheeting too?

https://www.deadening.co.uk/products/silent-coat-isolator-10-large-sheet

or can i go without and use the other stuff

I would use that yeah, feel free to use another material, as long as its water resistant. I used this because its easy to work with and the self adhesive backing means its also easy to apply (no need for spray glue). You will need to cut out slots for the door cables and obviously the speaker. I cant see why anyone would refit a plastic sheet when you can add a material which will help block/absorb sound.

 

12 hours ago, Nimz said:

Quite a detailed (potentially OTT) thread on the steps one guy went through over on the American forum - link here. 

Funnily enough that's the thread I used as guidance. He uses alot of MLV which is heavy, I compromised and didn't use any, my results wont be as good but its a great thread for getting an idea of what can be done.

 

12 hours ago, br0wny said:

thank you for all your help here  i think ill go for the 8 sheet door pack and the isolater10 to replace the membrane when it comes to it 

No problem! I'm definitely not an expert, just sharing my experiences in doing it and what Ive researched. If you feel like going the whole hog I would seal the door panels too. By that I mean stick a plastic or metal sheet material over the big holes in the doors inner skin, this seals the inner and outer skin, in theory putting the speaker in a box like you would at home, this help with bass/ mid-bass.

[infernouk 8]

52 minutes ago, Varelco said:

I would use that yeah, feel free to use another material, as long as its water resistant. I used this because its easy to work with and the self adhesive backing means its also easy to apply (no need for spray glue). You will need to cut out slots for the door cables and obviously the speaker. I cant see why anyone would refit a plastic sheet when you can add a material which will help block/absorb sound.

 

Funnily enough that's the thread I used as guidance. He uses alot of MLV which is heavy, I compromised and didn't use any, my results wont be as good but its a great thread for getting an idea of what can be done.

 

No problem! I'm definitely not an expert, just sharing my experiences in doing it and what Ive researched. If you feel like going the whole hog I would seal the door panels too. By that I mean stick a plastic or metal sheet material over the big holes in the doors inner skin, this seals the inner and outer skin, in theory putting the speaker in a box like you would at home, this help with bass/ mid-bass.

would 1 pack/sheet of the isolator do both doors?

[Varelco 211]

No you will need 2. 

One large sheet is 980x600.