Dan J's BRZ

[DanJ 374]

They seem a friendly bunch, I'm sure if we can demonstrate there's sufficient demand they'd start making and selling them.

[Tareim 343]

I did ask them why they didn't have any gt86 discs on their fb page quite some time ago, can't remember the reason why they didn't now

[DanJ 374]

Probably a new casting required for the blanks so they need enough interest to justify the tooling investment.

In other news, it lives! No water or fuel leaks, start map flashed fine. Time for a test drive and log some data to send back to Mark.

[DanJ 374]

Bugger, MTEC have sent me the wrong front discs, brakes will have to wait until another day 

[Ade 517]

On 4/2/2016 at 10:45 PM, DanJ said:

 

I'd be interested to see the Cosworth instructions, the Harrop ones are vague in places, I've taken lots of pics of key stages to fill in the gaps for others.

The intercooler plumbing may cause a rethink for the oil cooler ducting, time will tell tomorrow!

Hope BCS deliver for you soon.

I'll email it over to you.

I'll say now that they are not like the Edlebrock basically spoon feeding it to you but in my opinion the Cosworth instructions give you as much has you need (if you know what you are doing) without giving you 3476 steps to removing an injector hose.

 

For example here is what it says about removing the inlet manifold:

1st job is to remove inlet hose

And then remove the injector heat shields from both sides to access the manifold bolts

Disconnect the fuel fitting from the 3 pipes on the inner wing / fender and plug with appropriately sized bolt or dowel to prevent fuel leaking whilst working

Disconnect the throttle body, purge valve and pressure sensor wiring

Disconnect the brake booster, and breather pipes - unless the car is automatic, in which case the original brake booster plumbing is to be left as standard

Undo inlet manifold retaining bolts and withdraw the manifold assembly

 

[Ade 517]

On 4/3/2016 at 9:51 AM, DanJ said:

Refurbed calipers and new MTEC discs waiting to go on.

Whats the part number for the rear discs?

I ended up buying the dual drilled DBA discs which are not cheap at ~£260

 

 

[DanJ 374]

1 hour ago, Ade said:

I'll email it over to you.

I'll say now that they are not like the Edlebrock basically spoon feeding it to you but in my opinion the Cosworth instructions give you as much has you need (if you know what you are doing) without giving you 3476 steps to removing an injector hose.

 

For example here is what it says about removing the inlet manifold:

1st job is to remove inlet hose

And then remove the injector heat shields from both sides to access the manifold bolts

Disconnect the fuel fitting from the 3 pipes on the inner wing / fender and plug with appropriately sized bolt or dowel to prevent fuel leaking whilst working

Disconnect the throttle body, purge valve and pressure sensor wiring

Disconnect the brake booster, and breather pipes - unless the car is automatic, in which case the original brake booster plumbing is to be left as standard

Undo inlet manifold retaining bolts and withdraw the manifold assembly

 

Thanks for sending that through, I wish I'd had that as well for reference over the weekend as some steps are very similar. For the most part the Cosworth instructions are better than Harrop's but I was surprised at the lack of tightening torques. I've only got a paper copy of the Harrop instructions but I'll bring them to Snett so you can have a gander.

We had a fair few "what the hell do we do here" moments, but if you're mechanically minded you can work it out after sufficient head scratching! After my Bedford experience we also hose clipped everything we could.

1 hour ago, Ade said:

Whats the part number for the rear discs?

I ended up buying the dual drilled DBA discs which are not cheap at ~£260

http://www.mtecbrakes.com/brake-discs/subaru/impreza-2007/impreza-2-5-turbo-wrx-sti12-07.html

£118 for the discs, £25 for PCD change and £12.50 for the extra anti-corrosion coating, all with 10% then taken off at the checkout, absolute bargain :-)

[Ade 517]

20 minutes ago, DanJ said:

Thanks for sending that through, I wish I'd had that as well for reference over the weekend as some steps are very similar. For the most part the Cosworth instructions are better than Harrop's but I was surprised at the lack of tightening torques. I've only got a paper copy of the Harrop instructions but I'll bring them to Snett so you can have a gander.

We had a fair few "what the hell do we do here" moments, but if you're mechanically minded you can work it out after sufficient head scratching! After my Bedford experience we also hose clipped everything we could.

http://www.mtecbrakes.com/brake-discs/subaru/impreza-2007/impreza-2-5-turbo-wrx-sti12-07.html

£118 for the discs, £25 for PCD change and £12.50 for the extra anti-corrosion coating, all with 10% then taken off at the checkout, absolute bargain :-)

I wish I had know that before I ordered the DBAs!

Yeah did look up tightening torques for some bits but most of the time (e.g. the manifold itself) you cant get the torque wrench in there to do all of them anyway so a degree on mechanical sympathy is required. The only place I ended up using the torque values i'd looked up was the injector rails when I swapped them over. 

I've read a few sc'd people state side had breather hoses pop off. I've used clips on all the breathers except the one the connected to the underside of the intake tube prior to the throttle body. Mainly because its a ball ache to get to it, but its got one on the other end where it goes into the block under the A/C pump. 

 

 

 

[Mark@Abbey M/S 235]

The Cosworth instructions don't help you much on the water pipes we have found which in our opinion are a PITA to fit/align nicely. The Harrop is a nice kit to fitbut it always harder when you only fit your own kit and your not working on these cars all the time

Both kits we have fitted are on 2 poster ramps so fitting the Charge cooler rad is far easier than laying on the floor. I will look forward to the issue you had with mounting hole/s alignment on the CC Radiator thou.

Thanks

 

 

 

 

 

[DanJ 374]

Overall it wasn't too bad at all, the main issue with the instructions is that some of the photos showing you what to do aren't very clear. Agreed that familiarity helps, having done one we could easily do another in about 6-7 hours I reckon.

If anyone else is considering self-fit then I wouldn't advise against it if you're used to working on cars in general, but if you're a relative novice then you'd be wise to pay for Abbey to install it.

 

[DanJ 374]

After the previous false start the brakes are on without any major issues.

[Ade 517]

looks awsome all ready for snetterton. BCS have promised I will get mine this week....

Have you decided anything with regards to the suspension?

[DanJ 374]

Just about ready, touch and go whether I'll get the oil cooler on in time so may be restricted to shorter runs. Hope they turn up! Are you just doing the fronts for now or fronts and rears?

The price to revalve the Ohlins was too much for me and that was before top mounts as well so there'll be a set of Flex A's being fitted before Cadwell.

In a way I'm glad the mods have ended up being phased so I get a chance to experience/appreciate the impact of each change.

[GT86Jay 202]

Awesome build.

I've also got the Brembo STI calipers. I'd be very interested in your opinions of the rear calipers with the front brembos. 

I'll be at snetterton next week to spectate as its local to me. 

[DanJ 374]

Thanks :-)

I've not had chance to properly bed in the pads yet but the brake balance has felt fine the few times I've leaned on them properly so far.

[Ade 517]

Thanks :-)

I've not had chance to properly bed in the pads yet but the brake balance has felt fine the few times I've leaned on them properly so far.

To be honest, and im not exactly sure how it works, I think the torque biasing can play with brake bias to a degree. The full brembo setup isnt that much changed from stock anyway. Few % forward iirc.

Im changing front and back. Rears will be 4pot wilwood superlite calipers and brembo sti disc moving the bias about 8-9% rearward.

Fronts is a AP racing 6pot cp7040 with 350mm disc and moves it forward a tad over stock.

Overall its about 6-7% rearward. I tried an aggressive compound at the back and oem pads in the front. It felt fine too and I suspect the torque biasing sorting out any issues.

I really hope they arrive this week.

[DanJ 374]

Pretty sure there's a valve that limits the pressure to the rear brakes at high rates of decel (to avoid rears locking first as load transfers to the front wheels).

[DanJ 374]

Nice shot from Cadwell Park today, after expecting rain all week we were greeted with glorious sunshine all day. Superb track, loved it and definitely have sorted my previous brake woes with a change of pads to Performance Friction .08s 

[Keethos 842]

It was a great day and thanks again for the ride round, the Harrop is pretty impressive in it's smooth power delivery, makes an ever slight whine along with a some what deep growl from the inside but you can't hear anything from outside, almost sounds like an electric car its that quiet.....but rapid .  Also very impressed with the Pilot Sports, I'm sure we were doing similar speeds around some of the longer bends and the Yoko's would squeal and scrub a bit where as your car remained planted even when on full or almost full throttle.

[DanJ 374]

You're welcome, glad you enjoyed it! A lot of the whine you were hearing is the shorter final drive, its quite noisy, especially at high speeds.

I've been very impressed with the tyres, they're Pilot Super Sports, which are different to the Pilot Sport range, just so you know in case you do get some of those next.

I think I might need some different pads for daily use, they were silent before the track day but now they're properly bedded in the squeal on normal road use is horrendous!

[AJ124 118]

Good looking project Dan, interested if you come up with a solution to extending the steering wheel. It's something I've been meaning to look into as well.

[DanJ 374]

Thanks AJ, its been a fun project so far! The steering extension should be fairly easy to do, I just need to find a second hand stock wheel for sensible money as my cars a daily driver. Will let you know the outcome when I get round to it.

[AJ124 118]

I have a spare wheel, just haven't had time to take mine off the car to see how much spine there is to play with. Or do you have another idea?

[DanJ 374]

I'm thinking of machining out the existing spline and welding in a new extended boss that has the right spline wire eroded in it plus a recess so there's no need to extend the steering column or reduce the thread engagement on the retaining nut.

[Deacon 1357]

 How much extension are you looking to get?

Keys! Racing make a wheel with a 20mm dish which may be an easier route?