Tweedbean 151 Report post Posted July 5, 2015 Hi all I need some tips on camber adjustment on the Teins. Until I get the other suspension components for a proper setup, I want to adjust camber myself. On previous cars I was lucky and didnt need to however since lowering the 86, the rear has negative cambered naturally due to it sitting lower, where as the front still has zero camber. I want to add negative camber to the front for now to get it matching the rear and wondered how much to add, I wasnt sure whether the lines on the top mounts were 1 degree each and roughly what I would need to add in the front.Tein Flex Z Coilovers for the GT86 by James Baker, on FlickrThe car is now up in the air as the wheels are going back on so I thought it was a great opportunity to sort it. I have loosened off the allan key bolts and the camber is easily adjustable, so any tips on how much would be appreciated.Not the best photo to show rear camber currently but will give you an idea:Lowered another 10mm on the front by James Baker, on Flickr Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deacon 1357 Report post Posted July 5, 2015 The marks don't seem to equate to anything I don't believe. I can post a picture of mine when I get home which is -2.5 degrees but whether setting yours the same would give the same setting I have no idea! 1 Tweedbean reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
KevinA 695 Report post Posted July 5, 2015 Very crudely you could put a small level on the hub and take off of upright, mark the bubble and repeat the other side. Not a good way but might help until you get an alignment done. 1 Tweedbean reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tweedbean 151 Report post Posted July 5, 2015 Thanks I will be taking it to a mates garage for a proper alignment, just wanted to see what I could sort while its in the air. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
smudge 1020 Report post Posted July 5, 2015 Get it on a proper alignment machine, you can't judge how much to set it too while it's in the air as it'll change once it's back on the floor and under load again 1 Tweedbean reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DanJ 374 Report post Posted July 5, 2015 No substitute for a proper alignment, but using a digital inclinometer with a flat board held against the face of the wheel can get you close in the meantime. http://www.laserlevelshop.co.uk/rion-digital-inclinometer-0.1%B0~767?gclid=CjwKEAjwq-OsBRDd95aryprR9wQSJACQnU3G5BpvGBxmFiNnvV2lBfrU-fFrbHEJ7pdkMOxabrs_QBoC52Lw_wcB If you can get to a flat floor then you can check your toe settings by "stringing" http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/chassis-suspension/ctrp-1204-determining-wheel-alignment-string-your-car/ 1 Tweedbean reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deacon 1357 Report post Posted July 5, 2015 Don't think these will be that helpful but these are the pictures of mine:- 1 Tweedbean reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted July 5, 2015 Jeff you should have your bolts that hold the pillowball mounts apart, not together. That is not correct. You should have a gap of one hole between the bolts. You can see your mounts are slightly twisted relevant to the top mount. If you look at Tweedbean's pic in the first post you will see what I mean. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deacon 1357 Report post Posted July 5, 2015 Jeff you should have your bolts that hold the pillowball mounts apart, not together. That is not correct. You should have a gap of one hole between the bolts. You can see your mounts are slightly twisted relevant to the top mount. If you look at Tweedbean's pic in the first post you will see what I mean. I understand what your saying in the first part of your post Lauren but not the second? The bolts are as RRG set them - when Blink did the meisters they also had the bolts together? Doesn't seem to say anything in the manual about them being apart from what I can see. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted July 5, 2015 RRG have not set them correctly. They set mine like that, but as soon as Yukiko from Tein saw it when I got to Fensport she got them to move them one hole apart. I'd trust Yukiko in this instance! Up to you, but I don't think Yukiko and Dave at Fensport would be wrong about this. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deacon 1357 Report post Posted July 5, 2015 Ok thanks for clarifying that Lauren but do you know why? Having seem the dampers apart I'm struggling to see what difference that would make? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted July 5, 2015 Well, I would think it would better clamp the strut to the top mount if you space the bolts out. Stands to reason really. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deacon 1357 Report post Posted July 5, 2015 The bolts aren't really load bearing bolts though - they are only hand tightened. I've just had a look in the installation manual and it clearly shows the bolts together (picture below) as in my pictures so I'm a bit confused now? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted July 6, 2015 Fair point, it does show them together. Well, up to you I guess. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
