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D2 Brakes??

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Simple question really.. are D2 brakes any good? I've seen conflicting views online, just wondering if any of you guys have tried them?

 

 

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Hmm, no better then. Wouldn't be keen on parts made there tbh. 

 

They are good value for money, but IMO it's either the likes of AP or something specific from the JDM or nothing. 

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Hmm, no better then. Wouldn't be keen on parts made there tbh. 

 

They are good value for money, but IMO it's either the likes of AP or something specific from the JDM or nothing. 

 

Summit stuff is made in taiwan?

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I don't think I'd trust my brake setup from Taiwan. But brace stuff isn't going to kill you if it goes wrong. 

 

That why I bought STI second hand kit and had them fully refurbished. At least then you're getting good, quality almost new brake kit from a JDM Impreza. For Budget Taiwan brake money. 

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Have we ever heard of any d2 or K sports failing for it to warrant any concern?

I think the build quality of the summit stuff is great so there stands a chance that these brake kits are also.

For the likes of AP, Tarox brembo I think for some part you are paying for a brand as opposed to what is of cpurse still a quality product with perhaps just more research.

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I raced on K Sport brakes and won the series, but had issues with warping discs. They didn't like big stops from 160 + mph. Otherwise were good for the money. Used AP on the second season and they were superior.

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D2 quality over the years has been a bit suspect. I know that D2 and K-Sport were once pretty much rebranded items but I thought that the 2 had started producing different lines so they are different products. Don't just assume that because they are manufactured together that they are the same, albeit that you'd expect build quality to be similar. If I went off plenty of old reviews, I wouldn't be putting D2s on any car of mine.

Just a case in point, TRD brakes are manufactured by Brembo but they aren't the same spec as the off-the-shelf Brembo offering ;)

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Thanks for all the great replies Lads and Lasses. I really do like this forum for its unbiased opinions from its members and the quality of the threads...

 

I am an old school engineer, having served my time at Rolls Royce Aerospace, so am only too aware of material quality etc. This is my concern with these Taiwanese brakes, but I must say, Asia does seem to be getting better at this manufacturing lark.

 

I work with some fairly new Taiwanese macine tools and they are extremely well built and reliable. We have partnered up with an Indian manufacturer who is making parts every bit as good as our British made parts. We make dental equipment.

 

As for warpage issues, I remember the days when AP had big issues with warping discs, there were moans on the forums nearly every day!! So, are these brakes any good... maybe?? Do they have double seals for road cars? Do they have stainless pistons? What is the quality of the hoses like?

 

I agree with one of the comments here, you are paing for the name in part when buying AP, Alcon or Brembo brakes. Stoptech seems a good happy medium, but they seem to have increased in price also. Im not saying for a minute that I'm going to go out and buy these brakes tomorrow, but i really am considering a gamble for less than half the price of other kits???

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An simple suggestion (and one I often make) but why not just put decent pads, decent fluid and possibly "upgraded" lines on the OEM setup? If you can get well designed discs, like the DBA ones, that are better at dissipating heat then that'd be a added bonus. People always seem to underestimate the OEM system on this car. Unless you're really heavy on your brakes on track or feel the need for the look of bigger brakes then that would be an equally efficient setup.

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It might also be worth pointing out that the stock brakes are absolutely fine. Sure you can get them to smoke if you spend 15 minutes on track and really use them, but if you're only doing ten minute sessions they will be just fine. 

 

On the road not an issue. Yes, I did set some on fire on a GT limited spec GT86 on the Toyo Tires Turnpike, but that was after repeated braking from 100mph down to 50mph corner after corner. 

 

As Steve said, a better bet is to try different pads. It's  lot cheaper too!

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Please dont shoot me down here, but I really love the look of big brakes -_- I guess having spent two and a half grand on Ohlins, I shouldnt penny pinch on Brakes?

 

I have heard the standard brakes are awful, but am now of a different opinion having listened to your views...

 

My overall plan is to build a great handling high power Rocket Bunny. Obviously without the ultra low stance. Being an old man, I just love those screwed on arches!!

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The stock brakes are pretty good I reckon. I'm going on having covered 47000miles, which included doing the Alps twice taking in 11 Alpine passes including the Stelvio twice. Also I've done a number of track days and sprints, without an issue. 

 

How you use the brakes may have an impact though. 

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The standard brakes are only an issue on heavy track stints, I am going to try some aftermarket pads soon and see how they go before going for a bbk unnecessarily. If you're going for looks then the D2's or K-Sports could be viable for you as they are cheap and will perform better than stock.

 

Cosworth AP's could be an option for you, if you didn't want to cheap out?

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Some people do love the BBK look and if that's the case then there's not many options than to do it. Just make sure you don't overbrake the car, you will need decent tyres if you start increasing disc diameter and swept area. This isn't really an issue on kits that use the same size disc and just have bigger 4/6/8 piston calipers, but then you don't get any real "increase" in braking. The advantage is that if the pistons are directional then the feel and fade resistance could be improved.

I have heard the standard brakes are awful, but am now of a different opinion having listened to your views...

The standard pads can give up a little if really pushed, but I have used them on track and not had any issues bar a slightly vibrating brake pedal. This went away after the pads were less abused after more road use. The only real "weak link" is the pads, and it's a damn site cheaper and easier to just replace 2/4 pads than a brake whole system. The calipers are the same as on most recent WRX's, so heavier cars. The pistons are of decent size and twin pot design on the front.

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I managed to glaze my stock pads at Mallory a while back...not really managed to really test my stoptech pads but when on road, usually they stop fine, good initial bite but on the odd occasion it did feel like it didn't want to stop at all and I needed to push a lot harder on the brake pedal. If I had the money, I'd want some nice looking brakes, extra braking is a bonus.

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Hi, we love brakes here! There are so many options and variables when it comes to brakes. We find most of the time it's just the pads letting the whole systems down.

When you exceed the capability of the OEM brake pads it's best to replace for something that better suits your needs and applications.

There is often a misconception that you need to go to a 'race compound' to improve the braking performance. This is not true and race products shouldn't be used on the road - they can be very damaging to the rotors when outside the correct operating temperatures, which causes excess dust, noise and premature failure of the rotors.

Coefficient of friction is the measure of the ratio of the force of the friction between two surfaces and the force pressing them together. This matters because if you have too much then the brakes are very hard to control and if you have too little you won't be able to achieve enough braking performance. It is important to find a pad that has suitable coefficient of friction whist being able to maintain it at various temperatures, allowing it to reach its coefficient of friction as soon as you stamp on the pedal.

Fade resistance is the next characteristic to consider. Brake fade occurs in high temperatures when resin material in the pad vaporises. This creates a film between the pad reducing coefficient friction. In general an OEM pad will have a fade resistance of about 300-350 degrees Celsius. Performance pads obviously have a much higher fade resistance. But this can come with an issue. Many performance pads will only stabilise when they exceed a certain temperature giving poor performance form cold.

Lastly (for now) when choosing pads another common misconception is wear. People tend to believe that when you use a performance pad it will are faster. This is neither true nor false. His is because pad wear rate is different at different temperatures. A performance pad will be more resistant to wear at higher temperatures and an OEM pad will be more resistant at lower temperatures. You need to chose the pad that suits your type of driving best. This chart shows different pads wear rates under different temperatures

Disc rotors and brake fluid are a whole new chapter and I'll post some more in depth stuff in our trader section tomorrow.

Anthony

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