3782mc

My FedEx bill was post delivery. And was seemingly a random figure plucked out of their arse 😆👍🏼 

Well, then it just ups the statistic, that these mounts unlike whiteline com-c so far work fine for most and can be considered for those that wish more camber w/o compromising NVH.

Hmm, from looks of those LCAs, they have also adjustment of track .. but doesn't that adjustment not only changes track, but also changes camber? And toe adjusment, doesn't it change both toe & camber? In general, by that painted line over trick over you may check everything that is adjustable in suspension, to see culprit, which had moved, not just camberbolts. Also, what struts you have? Maybe height adjustable? Do adjusting collars stay snug? In general, as many using camberbolts also auto-x or HPDE their cars including going over kerbs, and for most camberbolts stay as they were when tightened, i suspect something else at fault. If for camberbolts themselves - then eg. misused some type of grease which may reduce friction and increase chance of slip.
If it's single clunk over bumps .. hmm, i'd check state of bushings and wheel bearing. Metallic clunk .. especially i'd check state of pillowball bushings, if somewhere are such, and also if some tie/endlink doesn't rub somewhere. For me source of metallic clunk over some bumps was eg. when topmounts where pillowball camberplates :), hence what i wished to fix by reverting to rubber topmounts but retaining extra camber. Seen cases in forums of eg. some aftermarket suspension/coilovers/swaybars combo, where with specific endlink length it rubbed when that corner was bottomed out.

Hmm, interesting. Can you post a link, what are those widetrack LCAs?
As for camberbolts, weird. Imho something is off/wrong. They shouldn't slip, normally torqued, they don't for most, if they do, probably there had been some some heavy hit to suspension, that might aswell also bend something. Hmm, maybe you have applied some antiseize grease or alike? (which should increase torque value to provide same level of friction to not slip .. maybe even past camberbolt shearing torque). Well, regarding camberbolts usage i may add two hints i've seen in forums: 1) when adjusting alignment, at end worth to paint line over bolt head & joint, so that one can see, if it has moved or not, and one can easily turn back to orig position, 2) seen DIY ways to ensure for bolts to never slip (though they were mentioned more in context of bolt within larger, slotted strut hole, less about lobed camberbolts) - to glue it. Saw mentions of eg. blue loctite, paint or even fingernail paint , to apply under washer sides and head of the bolt and under flange of the nut.
Also, can you be more specific on describing that clunking noise? I wonder if it is from topmounts at all. Issues with topmounts noises usually are when their bearing binds, so then when turning wheel lock to lock there might be noises of coil spring "skipping" in spring perch.
But that binding bearing / skipping spring noise is just from turning wheel, not exactly clunking when driving over bumps, as you wrote, so makes me think if topmount is source of that at all?

To me was more actual (in track use context) total camber i could net. As in, if i could or couldn't get front camber to -3 w/o resorting to install camberplates or not.
BTW, you still have option of powerflex bushings. Imho they might be safer possible issues wise. Those eccentric LCA bushings go in rearward joint, that, if i get it right, mostly moves in just one axis, unlike front LCA bushing, where eg. eccentric whiteline bushings for some fail.

Hmm, so far no complaints, "just works" and no issues to report. For about, hmm, IIRC ~ 5K miles and coincidentally also 2 trackdays. I'm now fighting with other suspension parts problems .. as in it seems that unexpectedly hard to buy bilstein B6, with most sellers inquired turning out restocking with those no sooner then in two months

Last bit of the exterior pieces arrived recently - STi rear spats
 

What's the simplest way for me to word this.... If your happy to try these for the £400 investment (F&R) then do it, I highly doubt you'll be disappointed. They are probably the best braking upgrade for a stock caliper I've experienced. 
My only concern and I've spoken with @Deacon about this is, what will the durability be like running a high spec endurance pad on the disc's and calipers over the course of a couple of years. My BBK has been faultless over the 3 years I've had and it's not used any consumables other than when I've wanted to try different pads. 
Ask me about the PFC08's again in a months time, as I should be getting a set for my BBK, to use at Spa. 

Hi Michael
This kit should definitely fit, it has been designed to fit behind the OEM wheels: https://www.amber-performance.co.uk/product.php?xProd=25282&xSec=8430 
Personally however this the best kit available and most popular, but I can't confirm fitment with your wheels. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Subaru-BRZ-Toyota-GT86-330mm-front-brake-kit-with-AP-Racing-4-pot-calipers/254364472322?hash=item3b394dd402:g:7zQAAOSwuGhbwy2Z
It is one of the least aggressive BBK's and does clear most wheels, except the stock ones. Unfortunately those Speedlines have a really high offset so it's hard to say, you could however run a 5mm spacer which will help clear the wheel or if you don't want to run a spacer the rotor hats are custom made so they can make them thicker to have a built in spacer so to speak.
 

SuperPro rear ARB brace bars in brand new condition.
I bought these to replace the rusted Whiteline ones I currently have fitted but unfortunately they do not fit with the Verus rear diffuser I have.
Packet has been opened but the brace bars never fitted.
I'm looking for £50 plus postage.
Any questions please ask.