Luke
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Content Count
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Days Won
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Posts posted by Luke
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When I last saw @VAD17 in Bedford back in December the official fix for the cone filter neck breaking was to just use a shorter cone filter.
@VAD17 makes subtle turbo sounds very OEM and power does feel progressive from the passenger seat. @MartinT Harrop setup looks incredibly OEM under the bonnet and makes it easy to tinker under the bonnet.
As for what is better, I still can’t decide.Jay Bamrah reacted to this -
I think it might be best to make a short video replicating the sound as you drive. You seems to of covered all the suggestions that I would of come up with. Unless what you’ve replaced is inherently faulty. Could it not be coincidence that something behind the dash has decided to creak after you installed the suspension.
I’ve gone back to stock suspension once and it did remove some low speed rumbles from the suspension. Perhaps it’s worth changing the fronts back to stock to see if the sound disappears? -
1 hour ago, maurice said:They do, same as OEM.
Top marks for trying to justify a BBK to yourself by that issue though. 😁
Well I thought it was worth a shot. 😂
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A little off topic but I’m curious, do these brakes tend to seize on when the cars been parked for a while after rain or a pressure wash?
The OEM sliding calipers are always doing this on mine especially if the car doesn’t move for a day or two. -
That’s a shame, I’ve had that happen with a few online retailers so don’t use them anymore.
Recently had a great experience with Car audio direct, who sent out two separate orders in a very short time.
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If it was my ginger I’d go with red calipers and black disc hats. However you said you were also going to change wheels so I’d just check that the colour combo looks good for you.
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You can take these cars straight out on track with no changes. Just check your car is good mechanical condition and go have fun it’s the best way to enjoy the car before you catch the modifying bug.
Once lockdown eases get to as many meets and shows you can to see other cars and speak to some experienced owners who’ve been there before. We’re all more than happy to talk about what works and what doesn’t work. -
Theres a few for sale on the Gt86 parts for sale Facebook page. https://m.facebook.com/#!/groups/1581880765452137/?tsid=0.562560657660215&source=result
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If it was me I’d put it back to stock and see if it solves the steering angle sensor issue first. At least that way you know it’s not permanently damaged and can go from there.
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18 hours ago, Shippers said:Project Mu do seem to get good reviews. Have all those above who are running non stock pads also gone in for uprated brake fluid? And braided lines for good measure? Or are a set of decent pads and a well maintained brake system all that's needed unless going all the way with a BBK?
Luke, hope you don't mind me jumping in on your thread. I thought it would be useful to hear what people also think about fluid and hoses as well.....and, because like you, I'm at thst stage of needing to replace pads and thinking an upgrade is in order 😀
Not at all. I’m using SS brake lines, ate200 fluid and a master cylinder brace. It’s a marginal gain on pedal feel, I’d say that a fluid swap feels best of those. I do bleed off some fluid before and after each track day to remove any risk of boiled fluid near the hot caliper. That does improve the pedal feel.
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I’ve read a few articles before stating that changing pads for track is a bad idea without changing the discs as well because the two bed together and changing one will require some bedding in time. Has anyone else heard of this or experienced it before?
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Thanks for you opinions guys, from what I read it seems that yellow stuff or ds2500 are the safe bet for a good all rounder.
I’d agree that Bedford has a lot of heavy braking zones so you’d definitely notice a weakness in the brakes there.
I try to keep my stints fairly short otherwise I lose concentration and start dicking around. -
I’ve read numerous brake pad threads before on the forum but they were all posted quite a while ago and time and experience moves on.
I’m looking for some good suggestions from your experiences on what brake pad options work well for daily driving and occasional track day duties.
Had a very bad experience last weekend with a set of EBC green stuff providing some horrible brake judder after two hot laps of Bedford Autodrome.
Previously the OEM pads worked better but faded within a few laps and also drove me mad with all the squealing on the public road.
From what I’ve researched it seems like a fast road pad is made of a softer material giving a better initial bite but after any significant heat they fall apart.
I have a set of PFC Z’s ready to go on the front but I’m just wondering what to partner them up with? Or would you suggest I fit something else all round?
There are a lot of options out there and I don’t believe the marketing spill anymore, I need real world experiences from you owners who’ve been there and tried it already.
Thanks in advance.
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53 minutes ago, Shippers said:Yes, I'm in a similar position of needing new pads all round soon. I was going to go down the Ferrodo DS2500 route but open to good suggestions 😀
Yes I’m thinking DS2500 are the better rear option however I’m hoping someone has a cheaper silver bullet option.
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How have you found the feedback from the new brake pads so far? I need a new set of pads all round and I’m considering the same setup as yours. Already have the PFC z front waiting to go on but I wonder what the cosworth on the rear are like? Do they squeal at all?
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Ah reminds me of when I got mine. (Same spec but orange). Welcome to the club. For me I really like the interior updates on the My17.
Joolz reacted to this -
Yes that’s what I read. London area should be fine. I might try some for Bedford track day on Saturday.
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I found the best way to solve this was to get back there and do the car wow tap test. Then I folded and stuffed wedges of upholstery foam. You can use a cut up t shirt for testing purposes. They’re are loads of access holes to stuff foam into so I don’t think it’s necessary to remove but easy enough if you want to. My rattle noise was coming from the play in the clips that hold it down, so bolstering it with foam worked really well.
Shad reacted to this -
I see that Esso have started selling Synergy 99 Ron fuel. They claim zero Ethanol is used to boost octane. Not being sure that Shell v power or Tesco momentum 99 has Ethanol in it but it’s another option that might be convenient.
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Looking very aggressive from that angle. After watching Henry Catchpoles review of it in Wales. Can imagine this car would look great with some rally inspired modifications.
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I’m surprised you’re not backing it off the transporter yourself and heading for the nearest rally stage.
Lauren reacted to this -
My led interior light bulb does dim as it goes on and off in the car. Granted not as much as the filament bulb but it doesn’t bother me.
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That looks great.
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After reading this I finally bought one for mine. It’s amazing how fresh and updated the inside of the car feels when you get rid of the standard yellow/white light for the bright white. I can find all my stuff now when getting in and out of the car.
Tweedbean reacted to this
Alternative to Focals, Vibe Optisound
in ICE/Electrical
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Just wanted to say thank you to you @sam534 for making this tutorial. I found it very helpful especially noting down the part numbers and identifying which wire did what in the dashboard tweeters. I’ve recently upgraded the speakers and treated the doors to some rust protection and sound deadening material. The sound quality is vastly improved and the door doesn’t rattle so much from the bass in the better speakers. Job well done.