chunck 5 Report post Posted July 19, 2017 Hey guys, here i come with yet another questions about wheel fitments currently I am running an 18x9 ET+35 on my rear and I ran a 245/35 on it last time this time around Ive chosen a 255/35 as to get rid of the stretch however this has caused me to be very close to the legal limit on wheel protrusion at stock hight. After a lot of looking over the internet and using the ft86 wheel directory for fitment I think I've found the answer is lowering the car 25mm which I'm happy to do my questions is can someone explain how this moves the car wheel inwards and not outwards I just cannot get my head around it as surely I'm taking angle out of the wish bones not increasing ill up load photos if needed later and any help for me to understand is appreciated And thanks in advance Daniel Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deacon 1357 Report post Posted July 19, 2017 48 minutes ago, chunck said: Hey guys, here i come with yet another questions about wheel fitments currently I am running an 18x9 ET+35 on my rear and I ran a 245/35 on it last time this time around Ive chosen a 255/35 as to get rid of the stretch however this has caused me to be very close to the legal limit on wheel protrusion at stock hight. After a lot of looking over the internet and using the ft86 wheel directory for fitment I think I've found the answer is lowering the car 25mm which I'm happy to do my questions is can someone explain how this moves the car wheel inwards and not outwards I just cannot get my head around it as surely I'm taking angle out of the wish bones not increasing ill up load photos if needed later and any help for me to understand is appreciated And thanks in advance Daniel Lowering will tend to increase the camber which will tuck the top of the wheel in a bit more. You'll probably need some further camber adjustment though - camber bolts or top mounts. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lucas 244 Report post Posted July 19, 2017 59 minutes ago, chunck said: Hey guys, here i come with yet another questions about wheel fitments currently I am running an 18x9 ET+35 on my rear and I ran a 245/35 on it last time this time around Ive chosen a 255/35 as to get rid of the stretch however this has caused me to be very close to the legal limit on wheel protrusion at stock hight. After a lot of looking over the internet and using the ft86 wheel directory for fitment I think I've found the answer is lowering the car 25mm which I'm happy to do my questions is can someone explain how this moves the car wheel inwards and not outwards I just cannot get my head around it as surely I'm taking angle out of the wish bones not increasing ill up load photos if needed later and any help for me to understand is appreciated And thanks in advance Daniel I can hook you up with some camber bolts if you want. I had some myself earlier today. £25.08 from Whiteline Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chunck 5 Report post Posted July 19, 2017 4 hours ago, Lucas@PartBox said: I can hook you up with some camber bolts if you want. I had some myself earlier today. £25.08 from Whiteline Are they just front camber bolts or do I require rear ones as I know our cars aren't adjustable on the rear? also anyone with just lowering springs not coilovers how much stiffer is it compared to the stock even if the spring rates aren't to far different? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted July 19, 2017 4 minutes ago, chunck said: Are they just front camber bolts or do I require rear ones as I know our cars aren't adjustable on the rear? also anyone with just lowering springs not coilovers how much stiffer is it compared to the stock even if the spring rates aren't to far different? You can get offset bushes to adjust the camber on the rear. They are not expensive. They are a pain to set though, because you have to take the bush out rotate it and then put it back together again and take another measurement. The other option is to get adjustable lower arms at the rear to get your camber where you want it. There are many options available but obviously this is more expensive and can cost from £250-540 for the arms. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deacon 1357 Report post Posted July 19, 2017 25 minutes ago, Lauren said: You can get offset bushes to adjust the camber on the rear. They are not expensive. They are a pain to set though, because you have to take the bush out rotate it and then put it back together again and take another measurement. The other option is to get adjustable lower arms at the rear to get your camber where you want it. There are many options available but obviously this is more expensive and can cost from £250-540 for the arms. Or just buy the whiteline rear camber bushes which are adjustable on the car 👍 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kodename47 446 Report post Posted July 19, 2017 33 minutes ago, chunck said: Also anyone with just lowering springs not coilovers how much stiffer is it compared to the stock even if the spring rates aren't to far different? Depends on the spring rates.... But if you don't lower too much most of them are comparable to stock comfort I'd reckon, the feedback on Eibach seems to suggest this. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted July 19, 2017 47 minutes ago, Deacon said: Or just buy the whiteline rear camber bushes which are adjustable on the car 👍 Yes of course, had forgotten about them! It's all because I got those SPL lower arms. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Deacon 1357 Report post Posted July 19, 2017 10 minutes ago, Lauren said: Yes of course, had forgotten about them! It's all because I got those SPL lower arms. Just a cheaper option for the OP. SPL or Velox arms would be my top choice but obviously cost a bit more lol. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chunck 5 Report post Posted July 20, 2017 Right after some thinking time I have come to the conclusion to not waste money on springs and just go for coilovers looking I think for my daily drive use only I'm not gonna spend £1000's and based on reviews over the forums I think Tein flex z to be my best options they will have a camber adjustable front top mount so will just be the rears I have to worry about but even then seems people don't have any issues without camber bolts/bushes and that means I can run it then get some arms for the astecticly pleasing nature in a few months does that sound about right or am I completely wrong and I'll still need camber adjustment on the rear right away? 1 Lauren reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted July 21, 2017 That's right, but the camber will increase a bit if you lower it, so offset bushes will be needed to set the camber on the rear. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Church 209 Report post Posted July 21, 2017 Offset bushings .. or aftermarket LCA since beginning. Given that work pressing out stock and replacing bushings also will cost extra, it may eat cost difference, no? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted July 21, 2017 More of a pain to set up, but once it's set....it's all good until the next time. I know I've had offset bushes for 3.5 years. Only recent put LCA's on. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chunck 5 Report post Posted July 21, 2017 1 minute ago, Lauren said: More of a pain to set up, but once it's set....it's all good until the next time. I know I've had offset bushes for 3.5 years. Only recent put LCA's on. I think I'll go for LCA with coilovers as I've just had to cancel my berk high flow cat I'll wait a few weeks for that to come back into stock then buy it once I'm lower Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Church 209 Report post Posted July 22, 2017 Lauren: just if track use is considered, then from time to time after pyrometer readings or after observing tire wear or if one will want to change grip balance sometimes it takes several iterations to find wished optimum camber, and for those iterations each time to readjust with using bushings might be major PITA. From description of OP it's more about looks & non rubbing, then of course it's one-time alignment set, and eccentric bushings may do aswell. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Johnno92 12 Report post Posted July 23, 2017 Have you considered rolling the arches abit.? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
