iddrew 86 Report post Posted May 7, 2015 Hi All, I have a bunch of HKS parts on order as i am preparing for Forced Induction. I've had a problem for about a year now and i'm not sure if it's a genuine concern or not. Every 2 months or so when i slam the throttle on low RPM (about 1500 - 2000) I hear the dreaded Direct Injector "POP" from the engine bay, i also loose power for a split second. kind of like a mis-fire. Toyota in Malta while they offer great "normal people" customer care, they know absolutely NOTHING about this car and really don't want to help me on this. I have been complaining about rough idle a couple of months after i bought the car. The idle is not super rough, but if you sit still in the seat and don't move you feel little kicks. It hold rpms good though (maybe Malta's shitty fuel). But this pop i'm worried about. Should i go out all guns blazing against toyota and hire lawyers etc to force them to change the Direct Injector seals, or since it's not that frequent shall i just ignore it and go for the SuperCharger Upgrade + a great map from Adrian@Fensport and hope for the best? Thanks guys, really appreciate the feedback Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GT86Jay 202 Report post Posted May 7, 2015 You'll find if you're on the original Toyota Map it maybe a bit rough and noticable. There has been a few map revisions from toyota to fix a couple of things regarding injectors. Rough idle is common sometimes depending on AC and Fuel! I find BP causes rough idle and the clicking sound more than V-Power. I wouldn't worry about it too much. Fit the kit, get a great map from Adrian and keep and eye on it. The EcuTek Logs will show up any knock issues or injector failings. Best bet is to speak to Adrian about it and see what he thinks. Might be worth getting a new NA map for the time being to see if that resolves anything.... You need to buy the licence anyway, and a new base map maywell be better than what you have now. But you'll need some work done on the map around ensuring its Safe on your fuel. Ignition timing etc to prevent knock. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rob275 1817 Report post Posted May 7, 2015 This is a known issue, Toyota need to replace the injector seal under warranty (in the states at least) otherwise you will get issues down the line. I wouldn't like to say it's covered under warranty in the UK as I haven't heard of a case here, but I imagine it would be. I wouldn't go FI until you get that sorted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GT86Jay 202 Report post Posted May 7, 2015 This is a known issue, Toyota need to replace the injector seal under warranty (in the states at least) otherwise you will get issues down the line. I wouldn't like to say it's covered under warranty in the UK as I haven't heard of a case here, but I imagine it would be. I wouldn't go FI until you get that sorted. Andrew is in Malta. Not sure of the laws and warrenty over there? The fact you have to run on terrible fuel and don't have 97RON at least is always going to be an issue! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Guest Report post Posted May 7, 2015 As Jay has already said, the latest map is a marked improvement. I only know this because I have the latest map in my daily driver and an experienced owner immediately noticed how much smoother my idle was, particularly when cold. I am a little concerned about the subject matter here though.. surely, if an injector seal was going it would pop all the time, not just once in a while? I would also assume the noise would get louder very quickly as the seals degredation would be exponential? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iddrew 86 Report post Posted May 7, 2015 Yeah that's the thing that's worrying me. I love to push my car, ALWAYS, so i would imagine i'd always be hearing this popping sound. But in fact it's quite rare! 2 - 3 months i hear it max. Noise didn't get any louder. I will ask toyota to supply me with the latest map before i go FI (not that it's gna make any difference since i'll be getting remapped) but at least before i go FI i can see if it improves idle etc etc. Thanks guys for the info and some re-assurance, i'll keep you posted. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rob275 1817 Report post Posted May 7, 2015 Ahh I misread, I thought you said it started 2 months ago, not it happens every 2 months. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted May 7, 2015 You may want to bear in mind that you should never 'slam the throttle' at such low rpm. Never do this to an engine. Feed it in until you are at least over 3500rpm before going wide open throttle. 3 Palsx, GT86Jay and Ztox reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iddrew 86 Report post Posted May 7, 2015 yeah i know it's a stupid habit of mine! However since our cars are fly by wire shouldn't the ECU open the throttle at a certain ratio to prevent damage etc etc? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GT86Jay 202 Report post Posted May 7, 2015 yeah i know it's a stupid habit of mine! However since our cars are fly by wire shouldn't the ECU open the throttle at a certain ratio to prevent damage etc etc? Ecutek allows you to change the Throttle Maps. So you can decide how harsh or soft the throttle is. It can be done against speed / throttle sensor. So for example. 50% throttle pedal can be 100% throttle body. Or 50% throttle pedal can be 50% throttle body. Then you can say stuff like up to 30mph I want 50% pedal to be 25% throttle body. and over 30mph I want 50% throttle pedal to be 100% throttle pedal. But at the end of the day. if you slam the throttle pedal the throttle body is going to open all the way! I always feather my accelleration in. Rather than slam the throttle in. Makes for smoother driving and feels like it's putting less stress on the car. And doesn't really give any less performance feel on the road. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kodename47 446 Report post Posted May 7, 2015 Jay you're on about the ECUtek accelerator pedal maps and not the actual throttle maps which are quite complex. However you are correct that most of the time 100% accelerator is 100% throttle, it's only down at low RPM that this may not be the case. I can't check without it open. Subaru DBW logic is a PITA, at least 4 tables are in use to calculate pedal % to throttle plate angle. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted May 7, 2015 yeah i know it's a stupid habit of mine! However since our cars are fly by wire shouldn't the ECU open the throttle at a certain ratio to prevent damage etc etc? Seriously, learn to drive properly. Please do it for the sake of your engine. Habits are much cheaper to change than engines. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Quixote 35 Report post Posted May 7, 2015 Jay you're on about the ECUtek accelerator pedal maps and not the actual throttle maps which are quite complex. However you are correct that most of the time 100% accelerator is 100% throttle, it's only down at low RPM that this may not be the case. I can't check without it open. Subaru DBW logic is a PITA, at least 4 tables are in use to calculate pedal % to throttle plate angle. Is the OBD2 Throttle % the pedal % then? (Thinking P3 gauge readout - never really looked at the throttle one - mostly use it for oil and iat) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GT86Jay 202 Report post Posted May 7, 2015 Is the OBD2 Throttle % the pedal % then? (Thinking P3 gauge readout - never really looked at the throttle one - mostly use it for oil and iat) On my OBD adapter / Torque app there's both. 'Accelerator position' and 'Throttle body position'. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Kodename47 446 Report post Posted May 7, 2015 I believe the P3 does the throttle plate angle, may be throttle percentage though. As Jay says there's different parameters for accelerator and throttle. There's even multiple throttle parameters if you really want to get into it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iddrew 86 Report post Posted May 7, 2015 Seriously, learn to drive properly. Please do it for the sake of your engine. Habits are much cheaper to change than engines. It's not a question of driving skills. It's a question of a bad habit i need to cut out. And yeah you're right i need to cut it out before i cause something nasty! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
