toyokid 27 Report post Posted October 28, 2014 Another option would be Brembo brakes from an Impreza Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
iddrew 86 Report post Posted May 6, 2015 Hey, i have just ordered D2 8pot brakes with 330mm discs for my 86. They are due to arrive within the next 2 weeks. I will keep you updated on performance, fitment, etc etc. I thing to note regarding D2 for all those that are sceptical (as was i), D2 for many years used to make a "2-piece" caliper, so 2 halves were bolted to form 1 part. Not very good when you have hydraulic pistons pushing pushing outwards on a pad. D2 now completely changed the manufacturing process and are now selling their 8-pot kit as a forged monoblock caliper. My set will actually be the first in Malta with this forged monoblock design. So i'm pretty confident that we're not going to be seeing any of that "caliper flex" issues. Will keep you posted 1 Keethos reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHOSENMAN007 81 Report post Posted May 10, 2015 I've not had a lot of experience with after market brakes but my d2 6 pots stop my car very fast and progressive, so hard in fact I gave myself headaches after repeated hard stops on road runs. On an other level to the stock brakes. I mostly do very fast road as where I am we can give it the beans without hassle. And for that main purpose I did not feel top tier brakes ie ap and alcon would warrant the extra cost. For a mid range brake kit D2 or K sport give the bang for buck. Look else where I guess if you are going to be be counting hundreds of a second on your lap times at the ring. But in general use cant go wrong. One thing I would change though is the pads as the D2 pads supplied with the brake kit give off enormous amounts of brake dust. Having to clean my enkei rpf1s very often. You can see the difference front to rear as the rear brakes are still stock but the wheels are much cleaner. Other than that for the price its a winner. Oh they look the nuts too... 1 KevinA reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Church 209 Report post Posted May 10, 2015 Standard brakes are very good. They just don't have very big heat capacity for long (>10min) track sessions. Perfectly fine for daily driving though or even on track, if you let them cool after 10-11min of racing. If you care much about actual braking performance, imho changing pads to eg. Ferodo DS2500, changing to stainless brake lines, maybe master cylinder brace, and air brake ducts (eg. TF's ones, as unlike AP's don't require removal of fog lights). If you spend time on track often, then you can think of installing Essex AP Racing Sprint BBK kit. Essex Endurance BBK, if car has forced induction and race compound tyres. Essex kits will help with savings on consumables cost, like how much pads and rotors cost and how long last. But yet again, overkill for daily driving. If you care more about looks, then gains per buck, you can consider AP Racing own BBK kits, including for rear wheels. Other vendor BBKs like stoptech/willwood and so on .. they also have bigger heat capacity then stock, but still .. i'd prefer Essex BBKs, where function dominates form. No wonder that many doing actively HPDE/track racing use them. Judging by your ohlins coilovers choice you are able to spend a lot, but are not too much track focused (IIRC those were among best street coilovers, but not too much focused for track (still better then stock of course, just not main focus). So i'd say - stay stock. Or get expensive for all the wheels AP Racing BBKs, which will also bring some bling with it's painted calipers. It will cost a LOT though. My own choice on having that much money would be Essex Sprint and half of price of Cossworth supercharger kit . Aaand .. in most cases with Big Brake Kits double check wheel fitment using vendor lists for fitting wheels or vendor supplied wheel fitment templates, which you can print out and put to your wheels to check fitment. I guesstimate, that you may have already installed aftermarket wheel rims aswell. And please, don't kill wonderful handling of your car just because of wish for bling . If some BBKs require bigger wheels then 17" - to heck with them. One don't need their oversized rotors for actual braking performance increase. Nor even extra heat capacity is needed on these relatively lightweight cars. But one will see performance decrease (at least in relatively underpowered NA engine form) due installing heavier 18-19-20" rims that could hause such oversized BBK monstrosities. You won't get also weight lightening gains of more reasonable sized BBKs. EDIT Eek, seems that i answered to last post .. on 1st page Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHOSENMAN007 81 Report post Posted May 10, 2015 My 18s weight less than the stock 17s mate. The way I see it you add power to go faster you should certainly be looking at stopping faster to. Only logical. I like knowing I can scrub of a lot of speed with a light brush on the brake pedal. The stock brakes are deigned to only handle 197bhp car. If you add 40-60% more power then those brakes wont cope naturally right? As for bling is that not a big part of it all ; ) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted May 10, 2015 Stock wheels are pretty heavy though at 9.2kg 1 CHOSENMAN007 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Church 209 Report post Posted May 10, 2015 CHOSENMAN007: but do you also drive at 9-10/10 of car capabilities? I don't overestimate my skills, i know that i'd be too scared to go even to 8/10. And it's not as if BBKs will stop faster, braking distance is affected only on tire grip. BBKs affect only how much they can heat up before start fading. If you don't overabuse and do not really need that enhanced heat capacity bit and faster cooling, then BBKs will do NOTHING except hole in wallet. That higher acceleration thus more continuously accumulated heatload on brakes to bled speed before slow speed corners .. it might add up heat on track .. but on daily driving? Unless you usually go 2-3x times the speed limit on public roads As for wheels .. yes, good forged one size larger rims can weight as much or slightly less then stock size .. but you forget two bits - in larger diameter rims more rotating weight is put closer to the outer side of wheel, and also you can get even more weight savings by upgrading to lighter rims by staying same diameter. Some claim that lower profile can bring sharper turn in .. but not by as much, you can get even more from stiffer tyre sidewall. To me more interesting by several reasons seems going other way, to 16" with something like TWS T66-F, which of 16x7 size weight just 4.82 kg . Will bring most unsprung rotational weight savings, allow usage of cheaper tyres, add comfort to daily driving, less chance to damage rims on bad roads. Less sharp turn in imho will be compensated by easier/more predictable weight transfer. From what i've seen, those that care about performance over looks, they put very smallest size they can that still clear brakes they use. There is reason why most popular rally size is 15". IIRC even F1 have ridiculously high sidewalls .. but also 15". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
CHOSENMAN007 81 Report post Posted May 10, 2015 Great info. Can't help feel better knowing I got the brakes to match the power. It must be a placebo effect but I like the feel and looks to much : ) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted May 10, 2015 Some great info there, Church. I should point out that F1 wheel size is dictated by regulations over anything else. Also F1 cars use the sidewalls as part of their limited suspension travel, so quite a different application. Large or soft sidewalls make the car vague on turn in and during transition of weight transfer mid corner. I run a lightweight racing 17" wheel an inch wider than standard at 8" but use the standard tyre size of 215, to pull the sidewall a little to remove the flex from it. This makes the car much sharper and when the tyre starts to slide at and beyond the slip angle it makes the car react more quickly without having to wait for the tyre sidewall to flex one way and then the other. It's personal preference of course, but in comparison I competed in the TSS last year and ran 225/45/17, but I didn't like the extra flex in the sidewall as it took away the accuracy of placing the car. I'm sure though it's not for everyone as many may well find my car a bit too sharp for their tastes with less progression to over or understeer (though I've dialled out much of the understeer), but once sliding a little it has a better balance I find. It also depends upon driving style of course. I favour a fast drift as a rule. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rob275 1817 Report post Posted May 10, 2015 TWS T-66F's in 16" is out of the question for me, its a wheel I was considering but as Lauren pointed out to me a few weeks back, it would bang me straight in to the pro class Anyway on to the topic of brakes, I will be putting my Dixcel Discs & Pads to the test at Japfest, I don't feel bigger brakes are needed for this car. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted May 10, 2015 How much were they for a set Rob? I only ask as my second set of OEM discs and pads are nearing renewal. I'm thinking of at least a pad upgrade, but if discs are comparable to OEM in price, I'd consider it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Church 209 Report post Posted May 10, 2015 Pitty that 4/5th of very lightest 17" for our PCD are discontinued and could be bought only hunting different auctions/classifieds on many sites for long time. For example, what would you think about AG Forged SMK Monoblock AG3-SMK26 17x7.5 .. 9.5lbs/4.3kg? OR RAC Monolites RS110. Or Buddy Club P1 Racing QF (NOT SF). Or Racing Hart CP-035R. I guess still made are only something like Volk CE28N 17x7.5 (6.26kg) and TWS T66-F 17x8 (6.32kg). Kosei 4R 17x7 are 6.35kg and very cheap .. but they are cast, not forged. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Church 209 Report post Posted May 10, 2015 Lauren: search for TWS on japanparts.com. Cheapest i could google for. (IIRC $450.28 a piece in 16x7) EDIT Ouch. On second sight it was about brakes, not rims. Hmm, couldn't find how to delete posts :/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted May 10, 2015 Church, I'm not interested really in changing my wheels. I hacw 17x8 Volk Racing TE37. They are the perfect wheels for me and are light enough at 7.4kg per rim. They are also a very strong forged wheel and I love how they look, so I won't be changing anytime soon! Also a 16" rim would mean a higher profile sidewall which I don't want. I've got the setup I really like, so I'm staying with it. Good enough to win my class by a big margin last time out at the TSS. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rob275 1817 Report post Posted May 10, 2015 How much were they for a set Rob? I only ask as my second set of OEM discs and pads are nearing renewal. I'm thinking of at least a pad upgrade, but if discs are comparable to OEM in price, I'd consider it. I paid £850 for fronts and rears discs & pads. No idea what the OEM price is? I went for for the FS Discs and Z Type Pads http://dixcel.co.jp/en/rotor/rotor_fcr.html - These are heat treated with 20% carbon content http://dixcel.co.jp/en/pad/pad_z.html Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rob275 1817 Report post Posted May 10, 2015 Probably worth noting the FP is the same, just not slotted, so you will get more life out of the pads. Life of the pads it's high up on my agenda if i'm honest. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted May 10, 2015 Thanks, Rob. Sounds very expensive so I will give that a miss I think. Thinking stock discs and uprated pads. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Burn! Motorsport 20 Report post Posted May 10, 2015 Rob went for a set up way beyond OEM and cannot be compared in price of performance. We can offer pads to outperform OEM for about £120 front and rear and high quality OEM discs for reasonable prices. If your interested drop me a message and I will price tomorrow. 1 rob275 reacted to this Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lauren 2259 Report post Posted May 10, 2015 Cheers, I'll have a think. What pads would you offer? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
