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Willson777

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Posts posted by Willson777

  1. Posted · Report reply

    21 hours ago, MartinT said:

    I replaced the stock door speakers with the Focals and the sound went from grim to barely acceptable.  An improvement, certainly, but just about ok for spoken word radio.  I then found a pair of top dash midrange speakers as sold in the US market and replaced the tweeters with those and the sound went from barely acceptable to just about acceptable.  My head unit was swapped to an Eonon Android unit, which helped too.

    Just face it, guys, our cars are not suited to high-quality audio.  The doors don't allow for very good drivers and the air space behind them resonates, the body allows noise through and the engine and exhaust are noisy.  It's not a great acoustic environment.

    I get along fine with a little LBC and a touch of Radio Paradise.  When I want proper music reproduction, I play the big rig at home.

    Ive experienced Martins ‘big rig’, and it is truly amazing sound, could sit in that room every night getting comfortably numb to music! 
     

    5 hours ago, McDude said:

    I've found them to be pretty good - it's not audiophile stuff but as @MartinT has said, it never will be in these cars. What you are describing, @Willson777 doesn't sound right (some pun intended!) they maybe won't knock your socks off but they should sound decent and should certainly be heard! Maybe check the set up in your head unit?

    So today they did seem a bit better, i dont know if this is a break in period, or because i had upped the volume and maybe that had ‘loosened’ them up somehow… 

    Ive looked at the various settings / EQ etc in the headunit and tried various combinations to little avail. As mentioned though they were sounding better now so im gonna keep an ear on it! 

    MartinT reacted to this

  2. Posted · Report reply

    4 hours ago, Neil-h said:

    I’ve gotta be honest I don’t like those spade connectors (left hand side of the connector block with the speaker wire in), they really should be insulatated. You risk damaging the head unit otherwise ‘cus you could short out the outputs (might also explain why they didn’t appear to be working at one point).

    Would this affect the door speakers though? As when the door speakers weren't working, the tweeters were fine.

    Maybe I'll also wrap the connections in some electrical tape

  3. Posted · Report reply

    So after upgrading my head-unit to a Pioneer 160DAB (initially for Apple Carplay etc - not specifically for audio reasons), I thought I would tackle the speakers and saw on the forums that the TOY 165 by FOCAL were considered a decent bang-for-buck, plug and play replacement without too much faffing about.  

    I have had them in for a couple of days now and can say I'm not very impressed. The tweeters are better mind you, but the door speakers really don't have much volume to them for some reason?
    I was beginning to think I may have not wired them properly but it's literally just the one connector (pushed all the way in), and the tweeters I assume are wired as picture below.

    I took a 10 min drive the other day and realised that I'm pretty sure there wasn't any sound even coming out of the door speakers (or it was too low, I couldn't feel any vibration with my hand either) - but then on the way back, they seemed to be playing louder.

    Is there something I've missed with these speakers, as the stock door speakers seem to be better so far, imo. 

    Also I have heard about the 'running in' period for speakers, although there is also consideration that this is a myth if you look online? 

    What are everyone's opinions?

     

    No description available.

     

  4. Posted · Report reply

    17 hours ago, McDude said:

    I had to look up my old post to remind me of how I did it: Pioneer SPH-DA120 Install and Review - ICE/Electrical - Toyota GT86 and Subaru BRZ Drivers Club

    Yes, just those connectors - was a piece of p1ss to install with those.

    Perfect I'll give it a shot - Do you know if I will be able to use apple car play utilising the USB on the center console, or do I need to run the 'apple car play' usb cable by itself into the glovebox? 

  5. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, McDude said:

    The easiest way (though also costs a few quid) is jumper looms, none of the wires match up colour wise! The wiring is common between the GT86 and the BRZ and it's the Toyota architecture.

     

    If I recall you need three looms, an ISO loom, a USB loom (so your USB still works) and an antenna loom.SubaruISOHarness.thumb.JPG.a3930dee4f31cd5c898963bd5c189b0d.JPGSubaruAntennaHarness.thumb.JPG.a269fdba99be10ce3f42b1758c00e7d6.JPGSubaruUSBHarness.thumb.JPG.c81fab5c3327f2e8be7a4d734a55160e.JPG

    Those are the only 3 that I'll need to get it working?

    Seems far too straightforward haha

  6. Posted · Report reply

    HI everyone,

     

    Been a while since I've done any DIY to my car and I've wanted to replace the head unit for a while now. Not necessarily for EQ purposes but primarily for Apple Car Play connectivity.

    So I took the current touch and go out and was greeted with the following photos below. Most tutorials online / youtube seem to be for BRZ etc which often have slightly different radios or wiring around the back. 

    Anyway - if anyone can help me with what's going to be necessary to keep/remove as I am certainly an amateur with this. I have labelled up the photos and I did manage to find a manual from a Yaris which matches the same model number of the touch & go system I have:

    A1/A2 - No idea - Bridges itself to the unit.

    B/C - 28/16 pin connectors, but my 16 pin one literally only utilises one wire? 

    D/X/Q - All seem to be connected only to the unit as well (according to the manual, can't quite tell from my photos)

    Z/Y - 10/6 pin - Any idea?

    R - USB (Assume this connects to the USB output at the bottom of the center console then)

    S - Bluetooth Mic?

     

    So I was looking at the 'Pioneer SPH-DA160DAB Car Stereo' but I haven't done much in terms of research yet and am open to suggestions. 

    Has anyone changed the head-unit and now how much of these wires are actually necessary. The connections on the back of the DA160 seem far fewer.

    Would I be able to keep functionality of the Bluetooth MIC system? I'm also not bothered about rear parking camera connectivity

    Obviously happy to get adapters etc and depending on the system, I don't mind a faceplate / surround too much.

     

    Oh, and if anyone knows what the little connector hanging around at the back labelled '?2' is - it wasn't connected when I took the unit out.

    Thanks 

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Front.jpg

    Leftside.jpg

    Right.jpg

    yaris 2 labelled.jpg

  7. Posted · Report reply

    2 hours ago, Mike@TD.co.uk said:

    Glad you got it sorted, that has split the baffle itself, on the lower left side the silencer looks deformed/bashed/scraped. Have you caught a speed bump or similar with it at all? Looks like it has taken an impact.

     

    Any other niggles or questions, please just ask.

     

    Mike

    Hi Mike, I can't recall any particular event that stands out and the car hasn't been lowered in any way. The noise gradually came on over a couple of weeks then seemed to maintain a consistent maximum level.

    You make a valid point though and considering the state of the roads these days it could have well been  weakened by some sort of pot-hole impact or other. I'll monitor it for now and see how we get on.

    Mike@TD.co.uk reacted to this

  8. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Guys,

    So I've finally pulled my finger out and sorted out the original problem I had in this thread: 

    Quick recap:

    I have the NA pack from TD with the Super-res exhaust. After about 9 months I started hearing this horrible high pitched tapping sound, only when accelerating anywhere above 3200 rpm with a warmed up exhaust. I thought originally that it was striking part of the chassis structure or heat shield...

     

    After going to a couple of local mechanics who weren't particularly helpful, I did a quick forum search here and saw that @MartinT has previously mentioned a similar problem in his blog. Martin was very helpful as he lives not too far from me and he was happy to go for a ride/listen and agreed that it was in fact the same sound that he had previously encountered.

    I took my car down to @Mark@Abbey M/S (Abbey Motorsport) the next day, who were very accommodating. They couldn't see any cracks or problems with the exhaust on a visual inspection initially, and even putting the engine under-load using the brakes on the rolling road, they couldn't replicate the noise I was hearing. I took them out for a drive and managed to get the noise to appear (and now that the exhaust was nice and hot) it was also apparent when revving in idle too. 

    Back on the lift for inspection and they found the crack had now opened up, which went about 3/4 of the way around the super-resonator at the engine end (picture attached). 

    After a quick weld and fairly nominal fee, it was all sorted and I am back to enjoying the car properly again! Now that it is fixed, I can tell that the crack was not only causing the tap but had also changed the exhaust note subtley and it sounds a-lot better now it is fixed, very pleased. 

    To be fair to @Mike@TD.co.uk he was more than happy to have a look at the exhaust when I originally emailed him a good 6 months ago, but due to geography it wasn't going to be practical to get it over to him, and I am yet to speak with Mike directly following the fix. 

    Just thought I would share my story as this is what the forums is for! If it wasn't for the forum then I wouldn't have seen Martins blog post and it could've made the road to repair a lot more tedious and drawn out.

     

    crackedresonator.jpg

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Thanks Sam, I've just tried playing with it a bit and had some limited success.

    I moved the exhaust and rubber guides as far right as I could, took it on a test drive and i got through the whole rev range in a couple of gears without any of the tin-can sound at all, but a couple of minutes later it was back. So I think the integrity of the exhaust is fine, and it is rattling against something when under load.

    It is right up against the heat-shield (touching it), is this normal? The heat shield doesn't seem to be lose. 

    My other thought is that the exhaust passes very close to this part of the chassis (image attached/below), the photo is looking towards front of the car. So if the exhaust is off to the left and then vibrating under acceleration then i may well be hearing it collide with the chassis.

    68784788_2223113094477357_5115745081092997120_n.jpg

  11. Posted · Report reply

    Hi everyone,

    About a year ago I had the NA Tuning Package fitted with Tuning Developments and also took their Super-Resonated catback exhaust. 

    All was very well for the last 10k miles which I have done since then, however over the last 1k, I have been getting a tin-can rattle under acceleration, just past 3000rpm to redline. (I am driving very conservatively since , below 3000rpm, to prevent any further potential damage.)

    The rattle occurs under heavy or light acceleration but not when revving in idle. Also occurs whether hot or cold. With the windows down it sounds like it's coming from the rear-right section of the exhaust but with window up it sounds more forwards towards the engine bay.

    The exhaust also keeps slipping left off-centre which may or may not be related, I can easily re-position on the 4 rubber guide hooks, but then after a couple of drives it has vibrated back to the left of the valance.

    As far as I can see, the rear of the exhaust looks OK, but I can't really get under the car to look properly at the rest of the mid section and nuts/bolts etc there. I guess I could lift one corner using the wheel jack, to try and get a better look, but I don't know how safe this is?

    I did e-mail Mike who is more than happy to take a look at the car for me, however I'm about 4 hours drive away unfortunately. 

    I also have my MOT on Friday and it is due by end of month, so I'm considering taking it to somewhere like kwik-fit or the likes to be looked at properly.

    Any recommendations much appreciated!

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Hi everyone,

    I’m getting squeaking from what I assume is my brakes. 

    Its in sync with wheel rotation and disappears turning left but not right. I’ve read it could be a bent brake wear indicator?

    I had EBC yellowstuff pads and brand new OEM discs fitted about 2 months ago and have only done about 1000 miles (no tracking or anything heavy at all) so they shouldn’t be worn.

     

    any ideas on fixing this? 

    Thanks 

  16. Posted · Report reply

    Sorry to resurrect, I wasn’t receiving notifications about any replies to my thread which is strange.

    It comes down to preference I suppose, to be fair I don’t usually get a cold bum too quickly but the warmth from a heated seat can be very ‘cosy’!

    On 01/10/2018 at 8:39 AM, Lucas@PartBox said:

    I'm gonna have a driver's side heated seat  for sale soon, if you need that? 

    May be a bit strange with just one side but how much you looking for out of curiosity?

  18. Posted · Report reply

    HI everyone. 

    Got my car booked in at Tuning Developments later this month for the NA package plus a few extras. I'm getting yellow stuff pads and also having my discs replaced as both were flagged up at MOT. 

    Question is, do I still need to 'bed' the pads as the pads and discs are being changed at the same time? I've read that the purpose of bedding new pads is to get them seated properly on discs which already have imperfections etc but if they are changed at the same time is this still important?

    Thanks :)

    Angelina reacted to this

  19. Posted · Report reply

    Really nice car, love the photos and looks way better lowered, need to consider that myself. Both sets of wheels look nice, I'd personally err towards the first set as I think they appear a bit more 'rugged' which contrasts nicely with the curves this car has, but love it!

  25. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Lauren, I'm actually from Hook myself and have already been to see Kevin, very nice cars indeed! Although he has Mlltek and ARK exhaust, TD don't supply the Miltek anymore despite it being on the website currently. 

     

    Tom, I would appreciate that as I can't find any videos of the super-res. Looking to hear in person just because videos don't tend to capture the full sound range but certainly better than nothing, thank you!

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