Kodename47
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Posts posted by Kodename47
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So it's going to be £30k then as I bet we'll only get the "Premium" version here. All in, I guess not bad and in line with expectations.
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On 9/29/2021 at 2:52 PM, ThatGuyThere said:Yeah it's designed in such a way that it restricts flow. I'd love to know if anyone has remapped using stock header though, and the results...
On 9/28/2021 at 4:34 PM, DuncanM said:Exactly how I feel about mine, if anything the engine is one of my favourite things on the car.
Really? I loved the GT but the engine was pretty much the thing I disliked the most; not particularly characterful in sound and powerband was meh. I had come from a near enough 9k rpm Honda though where the engine was the real heart of that car.
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On 7/10/2021 at 12:49 AM, Sleazyboii said:Thanks for the response.
Yep, I’m still on the oem flasher relay. I’m hoping mine doesn’t have the same initial long flash, judging by the looks of them they’re all the same. It would annoy me also. When you say changed the relay what did you change it to?
I understand to a degree how the flasher relay works and that this one is load sensitive. My confusion is why it hyper flashes randomly and the car can go several indications without doing it then randomly come on.
I meant changed the resistor in the OEM relay, I did this twice as I first put LEDs in the OEM front and rear lights, and then swapped to VLAND rears, which needed to change the resistors to work at all. Means you get the better OEM flash pattern. All the ones on eBay are the same, you might find the Valenti, TapTurn or other more expensive ones don't do this.
https://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=114284
The random activity will be down to the system voltage and resistance. Possibly if the alternator is providing more than 12v and whether the LED resistance changes as they heat up under use. It must be right on a threshold.
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11 hours ago, Luke said:I would say if it worked before you changed the rear lights, that there maybe a fault with circuit board on those lights. I’ve not tried unplugging the rears before but I’ve unplugged the side bumper indicators and it doesn’t affect the flash speed at all. Mine is a 2017 facelift so may have a different flasher unit as it’s designed with led bulbs as standard.
The side indicators are low wattage so have very little impact on hyperflash - I'm not even sure if they are on the detector circuit.
8 hours ago, Sleazyboii said:I’ve purchased an LED flasher unit, which should be with me at some point, I’m hoping that replacing that will be the fix. I’m quite sure the indicator relay is load sensitive and perhaps for some reason when indicating and driving something is causing the load to change and this to hyper flash.
its a given that the rear lights are causing some fault
I think for me just getting a better understanding of the way the lighting system works might be a help.
So you're on the OEM flasher relay? If so, this has a resistor that determines the resistance that causes hyperflash. Some of the aftermarket flasher relays have a longer 1st flash, that really annoyed me, so I changed the relay. By doing this, I learnt a few things. As LEDs draw less current, you will get hyperflash as the comparison of the resistance vs the relay means that it picks up what it thinks is a failed bulb and hyperflashes. I also found that when one of my lights failed, verified as a short in the unit, that side would not function at all as I guess the resistance was so low that it couldn't function. I think that by removing the rear lights, this is also what you're simulating. Even hazards wouldn't work. An aftermarket LED flasher will lose blown bulb detection as it just outputs a signal no matter what but should work without issue
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The pearl white is a multi stage paint. It's done in multiple layers, even body shops find it hard to match. I doubt that there is a single pot of paint that will match, it's probably just the base white.
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On 4/20/2021 at 9:03 PM, BRZ-123 said:I believe the Immobiliser setting works only if the car is switched off. It will not switch on as the start up fueling is set to zero . With a running engine, it should not immobilise as it is very risky if a user error happens.
It depends on how it's setup
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6 hours ago, MartinT said:The compression ratio is 13.5:1
As per, 13.5 and 12.5 have both been mentioned from "official" data. The fact that the stroke is the same so peak power is relatively in the same rev band would suggest that if they did do a 13.5:1 comp ratio they will have held back performance. It will also have an updated version of the D4S so that would help countenance any increase (if any) in CR. This is also not taking into account that static CR is not a great marker when you have AVCS that gives you a more dynamic CR.
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6 hours ago, MartinT said:Higher compression ratio will make boosting problematic.
I doubt it is higher given that there is less bhp per litre than the FA20. Seen a couple of figures banded about, but I reckon there will be little difference to the 12.5:1.
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On 4/5/2021 at 8:43 PM, Joolz said:When I change cars choices will be hard GR Supra, GR86, GR Yaris, 400Z (Hope comes to U.K like 2 litre GR Supra where Toyota changed their mind).
On 4/6/2021 at 9:01 PM, Joolz said:I have a question and think I know the answer but cannot find it. I take it Tetsuya Tada GT86 and GR Supra Chief Engineer had no involvement in this GR86 car? From design photos I did not see him and no mention. Obviously early days and he could either be busy on S58 engine GR Supra or manual GR Supra, or something else entirely but would be nice to see if he had any input in this.
Lots of wishful thinking here. No he's not been involved AFAIK due to the Supra development - remember this has been going on for some time on the GR86.
No chance of the 400Z making it to Europe - they aren't interested as it's not a key market so won't make it Euro compliant. The B48 Supra is as it's the BMW engine that's in everything. Also why you won't see a manual Supra - BMW don't mate a manual to anything other than a B48 and this is true in the Z4. I can't see a manual B58 at any point if the parent company don't and so the same will ring true if the GRMN-ish version arrives, possibly with the S58.
I agree that I think the styling of the new car is very generic - I see the rear has Vauxhall look, but I think it's more wannabe NSX. It should be a better all round car and if the block is similar to the FA20 then you may find many of the SC and TC kits will work with little or no modification.
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If I can convince the wife that I need a new car, I'd be up for this.....
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If you're able to switch maps then it's no change in the map. If they disconnected the battery it would have reset the ECU so lost the fuel trims and pedal/throttle learning. You can reset the latter by turning the ignition on without the engine running and press the pedal a few times and then let it idle for about a min.
Not sure why you'd need to disconnect the battery though. Other than that, maybe a MAF sensor issue or an intake leak from changing the filter?
JBlues reacted to this -
Sold - May the new owner enjoy as many miles as I have!
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The clip is one of the expanding type so if you can get a set of pliers on the opposite site then it'll come out quite easy.
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Just reach up with your hand and pull it. Don't even need to remove any panels if you're happy laying face up in the footwell. You just need a light.
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8 hours ago, gavin_t said:Also I see Chris Harris has caused some online fallout with his comments regarding a social media person and a GR Yaris.
Have you watched (or listened) to that particular podcast with Iain? It's a good 'un.
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1 hour ago, Shippers said:Thanks Lauren, will have a read. I think you also got in there at the right time. When I was picking up my 86 from the garage yesterday (boot latch replaced) they were saying there is now a waiting list a year long!
Have you seen how much some are up for sale for?....
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2 hours ago, Tara said:Are you still selling this?
Yes, it's still available
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Non-insulated manifold running near the sump?
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@Joolz it'll be between the latter 2, coming from the 86 I felt the Supra was a bit sterile - It's quick, no doubt, but it's a much more removed driving experience, you'll hit your head on the door opening until you get used to it (probably not an issue if you're shorter than 5'10) and the feeling of the car (seating position etc) isn't as nice. Perhaps the seating position of the Yaris will also be interesting as a comparison, but at least that is a taller car so maybe you expect it.
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@Jay Bamrah just to close the loop on the top thread, the EcuTek packages are as follows:
- ECU License: Usually around £250, this is to allow the ECU to take an EcuTek ROM. The ECU only needs this the 1st time it's flashed, so there may be 2nd hand cars that have this already.
- Programming Kit (or the BT EVI Kit) with Dongle: The Dongle is the part that allows use of the ProECU software on your PC/Laptop. This is used to flash and log files to the ECU. You do not need this if you're getting tuned by someone else. Needed if you're remote mapping or logging. Can be used to make basic maps for your car and can be used to flash OTS maps if you want. The cable or BT EVI is just the device to connect laptop to the OBD port.
- RaceROM Upgrade: This is basically a Tuner License lite. It's applied to the dongle and is there to give you greater access to maps, including the custom and RaceROM maps, for self tuning. So this allows you to create better maps, but makes zero difference if you are flashng someone else's maps.
https://www.ecutek.com/Products/Retail/ProECU-Programming-Kit/Features/ProECU-BRZ
Jay Bamrah reacted to this -
1 hour ago, Iceman said:coil suspensions lowering the car can affect the waranty? Because is not original parts from toyota jaja
Well you certainly can't claim for faulty springs or dampers....
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What is the advantage of Waze over Google Maps these days? Just mobile cameras?
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1 hour ago, Iceman said:Now it-s possible to make conversion from fuel to LPG - then must be to EV - our models are too nice for rid them off. 1 we can go to live in another country where they accept for long years fuel cars or conversion in uk. In my case I will retire in 4-5 years back home
It's certainly possible to do, there are "crate" electric motors out there already, would just be packaging the batteries that is hard - and therefore making them viable via fast charging or suitable range. I mean there are EV beetles, classic Astons etc.
Thing is, China is being driven towards EV at a fast pace at the moment, and I reckon Europe (EU+ others) will move in tandem towards a target of 2030/2035 - most already have similar targets. I think because of this, all the major manufacturers will have to move as the power of these markets will make it so. Don't forget that at this point, this is for new car sales, not necessarily to get all existing cars off the market. Plus we have the potential for man made fuels, like the ones that Porsche are investing in, that will make ICE cars more environmentally friendly. Plus we've not really seen much in the way of performance Hybrid tech, which is coming down the pipeline now - see that the M40i BMW engines using the tech in the M340i/D and M440i even if only in mild form - The new AMG C series will use similar.
I understand the emotion behind the noise of combustion, it's why I echo that I want to get out of mine into some of the best sounding cars around at the moment while the tech gets there to make the jump to EV/Hybrid.
Will be interesting whether cars values drop completely or the market sees ICE as something that will appreciate.
Known Issues
in GT86/BRZ General Chat
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It's easy enough to replace, they come as one with the glass. Mine "exploded" on the motorway and I got a 2nd hand replacement and did it on my drive. From memory a little bit of a pain but not difficult at all.