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Chess010

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Posts posted by Chess010

  4. Posted · Report reply

    11 hours ago, cts said:

    Thanks @Chess010  Where do you position/store that adaptor lead?  I ordered a trickle charger this afternoon as thought I should have one, especially if lockdown is lasting longer.  My 86 is out of warranty now (14 plate), I'll double check when the battery replacement, but also first see it it recovers back to any form of normal health.

    The adapter lead will only work if it is a ctek 5.0 charger I think. It is available on amazon. I goes from battery outside the bonnet and is permanently attached to battery terminals and is a little plug that I leave sitting on the area just below windscreen outside the bonnet. It is not obtrusive .I can recommend this ctek 5.0 charger available on amazon so search for the attachment which is cheap and also the charger

    cts reacted to this

  5. Posted · Report reply

    7 hours ago, VAD17 said:

    Glad you finally got in emoji846.png

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
     

    Hi am glad you finally got into car. as I said it is a sudden freeing although i never had need to resort to allen key to aid movement although it would probably have helped me.I said before I got a CTEK charger along with this from amazon. well worth it as now can charge car anytime without need to get into car as this lead is always attached and jus need plug in to CTEK 5.0 charge unit.

    if your car is still under warranty I would get in contact with toyota head office- hopefully they can still reply and tell them failed battery and hopefully gain a second one replaced under warranty. but if not get it checked out by local garage and if faulty there is usually a 3 ,4 or even 5 year warranty from the battery manufacturers and contact them to get their response. -worth doing a check on battery even if  seems to be holding charge

    CTEK Indicator eyelet M8: practical LED indicator for immediate indication of battery charge levels

     
    by CTEK
    cts reacted to this

  6. Posted · Report reply

    4 hours ago, cts said:

    Hi all,

    First off, I hope everyone is doing as OK as possible during this odd time we're all going through.  It puts car issues into perspective to a degree, but the one I face today is seeming rather frustrating (and you can guess by the thread I'm adding to!).

    Long story short - I'm locked out of my 86, dead battery and no joy with the physical keys (I have both).  Potentially more worryingly in the past (September 2018) I've had success with one of the physical keys when just my key fob battery died.

    I have tried with some GT85/WD40 and turned the key back and forth for ~20 minutes now - no joy.  Any specific technique/extra detail that those who had success applied here - @Chess010, @Cerastes, @maurice ?  I can turn it both ways which I'm not sure is more worrying that it just being stiff and not moving. 

    The key turns further right/clockwise (which I understand from this thread would be to lock) than the distance it moves left/anticlockwise which I understand would be to unclock) - is that in line with what could be curren expectations suggesting it needs a bit more force to turn further anticlockwise?

    Thanks in advance for any insight!

     

    2 hours ago, Chess010 said:

     

     

    1 hour ago, VAD17 said:

    I had to apply force, particularly counter clockwise (had to limit it though, was afraid of breaking the key).

    Out of 3 times I tried only 1st took a long time, but I wouldn't want to try locking it and unlocking again.

    I assume you tried spraying WD40 on the key as well?

    Sent from my SM-G973F using Tapatalk
     

     

    27 minutes ago, cts said:

    Thanks @VAD17 and @Chess010  so much, the encouragement that it's possible helps!  It sounds like two slightly different approaches, e.g. one of force one of more wiggle clockwise to anticlockwise.  I've being doing a mixture of both, but very concerned when I used force about the potential snap. 

    I have been applying GT85 to the key as well as spraying some directly into the lock holding it open with another plastic nozzle.  I haven't heated the key at all, will go for more GT85 first.

    I don't have any home start cover, I'd almost think if anything a decent locksmith might be of more use for this problem, but I'm not defeated (yet!).  Trying to find some positive view on it, it's not like I urgently need the car right now.

    In other news, I get in from attempting the lock, have some dinner with a bit of the news on and it's almost like the car is trying to taunt me still - 

     

    T

  7. Posted · Report reply

    As a last resort you may find one of your local small garages may come -assuming still working as believe some are  but all main dealers closed and for a price of course . Could try with mole grips or similar to hold key but think you could end up using too much force. Hopefully leaving WD40 overnight in lock will help- go out and add some more! Also as a final try see if after leaving for overnight try the fob again in case there is just enough power left in battery 

  8. Posted · Report reply

    I mean wiggle very very small amount clockwise then anti-clockwise you hardly think it’s worth it but it then came free or at least did for me . Gentle rocking as fast as you can but not forceful put plenty of wd40 down before you start . Your problem seems harder than mine but I’d did come free and when it did it was sudden

    not sure can give any more help am afraid . Warm the key first?  Or gently warm wd40 but take care don’t want to set it alight. Do not want to heat bodywork as may damage paintwork. Call out aa or rac? Assuming they are still working phone tonight and hope they can come by tomorrow that’s my only other suggestion although might find they cannot get open either. Do not use you much force as if break key in lock would make it even harder to get into. Don't know any burglars!!! They would get in no problem

  9. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, cts said:

    Hi all,

    First off, I hope everyone is doing as OK as possible during this odd time we're all going through.  It puts car issues into perspective to a degree, but the one I face today is seeming rather frustrating (and you can guess by the thread I'm adding to!).

    Long story short - I'm locked out of my 86, dead battery and no joy with the physical keys (I have both).  Potentially more worryingly in the past (September 2018) I've had success with one of the physical keys when just my key fob battery died.

    I have tried with some GT85/WD40 and turned the key back and forth for ~20 minutes now - no joy.  Any specific technique/extra detail that those who had success applied here - @Chess010, @Cerastes, @maurice ?  I can turn it both ways which I'm not sure is more worrying that it just being stiff and not moving. 

    The key turns further right/clockwise (which I understand from this thread would be to lock) than the distance it moves left/anticlockwise which I understand would be to unclock) - is that in line with what could be curren expectations suggesting it needs a bit more force to turn further anticlockwise?

    Thanks in advance for any insight!

    I found that you just have to keep persevering lubricate by squirting wd40 into lock by letting it dribble down from the key and then keep on wiggling key fractionally clockwise and anti-clockwise it may take 15 or twenty minutes and you think you are getting nowhere but then it suddenly releases. It’s very odd but do not stop keep on trying as described and am sure it will unlock then  charge car.

    i have a ctek 5.0 trickle charger along with attached cable available as accessory  that Is permanently connect to battery and the end is sat outside bonnet next to glass and then no need to get into car if battery fails  

    let us know how you get on

    MarkFL reacted to this

  13. Posted · Report reply

    On 05/12/2017 at 10:23 AM, nerdstrike said:

    I do wonder about this aspect of the car. You're pretty boned with keyless entry if your battery dies. Perhaps it's a good plan to lubricate and/or warm the lock in winter before going blood and thunder on the puny key. If you remove the battery or it goes dead, you're also in the situation of not being able to lock the car very easily either.

    Batteries die right? Especially as the car gets older. Perhaps it's worth exercising the lock a few times a year to make sure it moves before Twigman's debacle occurs to the rest of us?

     

    1 hour ago, Cerastes said:

    I can't get in mine at all. 

    The battery in car is completely dead. No flashing red light in car. Tried key in door, turning left and right does nothing. Look a right idiot, can't even get in a car. 

    Any ideas? 

    Hi

     Move the key in the lock turning it few mm a bit at a time for around 10 minutes continuously and it will probably then suddenly turn and open at least thats what happenened to me. it seems very strange you think nothing is happening but then it suddenly works . keep on trying but careful so as not to bust so even almost nothing turning keep on trying clockwise and anti

    clockwise back and forth and see what happnes after 10 minutes

     

  14. Posted · Report reply

    My giallo is number 86! So am very happy to have the last one.

    i have since found out that I will need to purchase if want over roof so probably not bother as it was only if I should have got it then I would have for a time when might want them

  20. Posted · Report reply

    I had problem getting in to car when battery died . Fob would not work and so I resorted to using key which as you know is very small . It has  very little movement and after searching on web to other gt86 forums found info that it takes about 10 minutes wiggling to get the door to open using the key so I went back to car and kept moving it as much as I could without much pressure and low and behold after about 10 minutes the lock suddenly opened. Do not understand why this happens but is worth remembering. I was all prepared to leave it to breakdown service ,who ,I then had to get out anyway as car would not start and this despite car battery changed less than year previously from the Panasonic 48amp to the toyota 64amp. The battery checked out ok and am unsure about the car reliability especially in colder conditions 

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Hi Can you advise where in the fusebox should connect to for fitting dashcam. I have been advised connection to ACC point but not sure what that is .Can anyone help what is ACC. also does this mean always on . Ihave Autovox M6 and also bouught the extra hardwire fusebox kit for attaching to fusebox so always on and will switch off automaticaly if battery voltage less that 11.4v .Any comments suggestions welcome

    I have Giallo number 86

  22. Posted · Report reply

    Hi I have just bought AUTO-VOX M6 dash cam kit from amazon.co.uk which consists of front camera and rear camera.. I wish to fit hardwired  it through cigar lighter so that they are both live at all times. Can anyone advise best route to fuse box for front camera and also fit of the rear camera.does the rear camera need to fitted outside car and hole drilled through for connection to rear light cluster? Where is best placement for rear camera for full view?

    Any help would be appreciated

    thanks

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