MartinT

For my understanding, what is 'real' about Rays but 'fake' about Rotas?

Nice purchase, Kev, and welcome. I don't see many red ones and auto is unusual so you'll have to tell us all about it.

With the super resonator you're not going to get any drone once it beds in. UEL here.

Mine was an ex-demo car from Subaru Plymouth. Virtually new, with only 2k miles on the clock.

Welcome!

For me there was a noticeable quietening of the racket at all revs. It's now nice, I love hearing it, without being embarrassing. Give it a week and it gets quieter as it cokes up a little.

I felt exactly the same as you, the resonated pipe was just too loud and drony on the motorway. The super-resonated, on the other hand, works well and retains a sense of decorum while driving. It's still quite loud, but your head will feel better after a long drive. I bought the SR pipe for £250 and sold the resonated for just over £100, so it wasn't expensive to get the sound I wanted.

I always wondered about the lag. Thought there were sensors in the gearbox. Knowing now that it's calculated makes sense. Sent from my LG-Q6 using Tapatalk

I had problems with Tapatalk but it works now! Sent from my LG-Q6 using Tapatalk

Once you get a good driving position the car fits like a glove and the seats are some of the best I've known. Very comfortable over long drives. I'm only 5' 10" (in old money) so no height problem for me, and I like a position like @TommyC which is more upright than some.

I switched from res to super-res in my TD setup. It's much better now. It can still be loud when seriously pressing on, but holding speed and cruising on the motorway are no problem. I can hear the radio just fine!

Goodyear Vector 4Seasons Gen-II. Very good tyre, now proven in snow and this morning's slush.

Sorry, yes, Tuning Developments set the ECUTeK map 4 for low octane fuel with gentle responses.

Pull the cruise control lever towards you until the tacho goes into mode display. Jig it up and down to set the mode, then towards you again to set it. Make sure cruise control is off before trying it.

Great write-up. Maybe one day... I would like a solution to the cat issue, though, as I don't want such hassle at MOT times. There must be an aftermarket sports cat that will work?

I'm repeating myself, but for gentler inputs in the snow, if you have ECUTeK ROM switch to mode 4 (get-you-home low octane mode). It reduces throttle response and is perfect for the job.

Well, I'm enjoying the fact that I can get up and down my lane this year on my all-seasons tyres. It's really not much fun when you can't get up an icy hill and you're blocking others because it's a single track road!

Thanks. Your quote remains the lowest so I'll probably be going with you shortly.

Hi @ChrisKnottIns I've just been speaking with Jessica at your base who was very helpful. I'm still surprised at the uplift in premiums over the last two years. Adrian Flux have just quoted me fully comp + mods renewal at £524 from last year at £563, which was at least a move in the right direction. You have quoted me at £506 which is better still. However, I used to pay around £400 for a supercharged Honda so I wonder what's changed? I have 18 years' NCB! Has there been a general uplift or is it all postcode lottery?

It isn't gutless, the standard implementation makes it so. The FA20 is rather good for a 2.0 NA when you free it up. Sent from my LG-Q6 using Tapatalk

My partner has an Audi TTS so she has the straight line speed and I have the cornering nimbleness. Although there's less between them in performance than you might think (the TD NA kit makes all the difference). I worried that her being used to 4WD would cause a problem driving my BRZ but there is no issue as she is lighter footed than me. Definitely change the tyres, though, as the Primacies are crap in anything but dry conditions. For your area, think seriously about all-weathers that are safe and predictable.

Welcome! Where did you import it from?

I had a Sprintex supercharger on my previous car, a Honda CR-Z. They get very, very hot and need a large volume of air moving over them. I suffered from overheating (not coils in this case, just poor running) until I replaced the bonnet with a vented Seibon CF one. It solved the problem completely and I had no further overheating even in summer. So the answer to your question is yes, vented bonnets are effective at lowering the temperature in the engine bay.

I'm hoping so. There should be no rubbing which is what started it all.

I had to pull over today after a smell of burning and other drivers tooting at me because of smoke coming out the back. Lifted the bonnet to see the smoke coming from the top hose silver wrap which was touching the TD exhaust. I did what I could, twisting the silver wrap on the hose to present a new section and driving home slowly so as not to heat up the exhaust too much. Let the car cool down and went out an hour ago to see why it happened. Looks like the exhaust and top coolant hose are so close that they rubbed together over the last few months, causing the heat wrap on the exhaust to wear away completely, leaving a bald patch of bare exhaust almost touching the top pipe. Not good! I've loosened the top hose clips and twisted it slightly to try to get a gap between the two pipes. I've also ordered some exhaust heat wrap on eBay for delivery tomorrow. I've just got to get the car to work in the morning and do the repair at lunchtime. Has anyone else had this? Any suggestions on what to do other than the obvious re-wrapping the exhaust close to the top hose?