Rich196
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Posts posted by Rich196
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Add into that the risk that if there is a problem when they are delivered and you will have to send them back to the USA. Forget it.
Plus always support a British company, if the margin in minimal! Some might even give you a club discount!
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5 minutes ago, MartinT said:Hah - I don't make exaggerated claims for mine. It's a well-sorted 300bhp car, for road use. That's all 😀
Im only on baby pulley and stock mani, I have no idea what it makes I would go 260-270? Its never been dyno'd
Hence why I would like to have a rolling pull and just see what happens.
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And then ill blow you away with the cosworth.
Id love to have a ride with you martin to see the difference, id also like to have a little pull next to yours and see what they are like against each other.
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2 minutes ago, Jay Bamrah said:How much does it matter? Enough to where I should have to spend another £1000-£1500 on a header overpipe high flow cat ?
If all I want is 230WHP would that not be fine on a stock exhaust?I understand 100% why it would allow people to push 300whp or so but I’m not looking for that I would prefer save money and have 230 and no exhaust so long as having stock exhaust doesn’t put my cars health at risk
It doesn't matter that much, its about optimisation of the setup. The better flow you have from the instake and exhaust the less the engine is punished to make the same power, or can make more.
So often with a forced induction setup if you have a free flowing exhaust you can make a little bit more power with 5psi. Or you could make the same power but with only 4psi.
If you blow through a block straw its hard work, if you blow through a larger diameter not blocked straw its easier, the side effect of less free flowing setup is heat.
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On 1/16/2021 at 8:39 AM, Lauren said:I won't be realistically looking at changing anything too quickly, I've still only had my car for six weeks. I'm still in the novelty phase of being able to go over speed humps without wincing and that does have some appeal as I spend a lot of time driving around residential streets for work.
I also need to try my car out on track, when COVID allows, as I need to understand how it handles stock.
In other news, I've teamed up with Richard and a tuning box company, and will be doing some testing, which is fine tuning of the box yet. It's a mild increase to 300bhp/300lbft which will be interesting to try. Not that the car doesn't feel fast enough stock, but a lot of people will want that slight boost in power.
That moment where you mention not doing anything to quick, an sticking a tuning box on in the same post.
The slope is slippery for you!
Lauren reacted to this -
13 minutes ago, gavin_t said:Well I am living with the DS2500 on the road fine so they should be ample.
Where did you source your pads from?
Im sure it was a company called finishline on ebay where I last got them from. Not bought for a while as I have a set on the shelf still.
gavin_t reacted to this -
9 minutes ago, gavin_t said:Just looked at the blurb on the F4R seem well rated by users and have a high temperature operating window too. How do you find the feel and road manners?
Seem a bargin at circa £100 as well.
They don't have a lot of feel when cold, im not going to lie doesn't take much to get a little bit of heat into them and then they are fine.
I would prefer to have the road manner of the F4R over the track manner of the DS2500 personally.
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2 minutes ago, gavin_t said:Sounds like there is plenty of good choice then. Plus been a superior brake setup you can probably use a slightly less aggressive pad and get away with it. Only reason I was swaying away from the supplied DS2500 was the wooden feel I had experienced in the past with them.
I was the same thats the only reason I didnt give them a try again!
gavin_t reacted to this -
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I have done the above, i wrapped it in electrical tape until it was a tight fit, rattle gone.
Jay Bamrah reacted to this -
worth noting that im sure I have been told the HKS is good for minimal pressure drop.
gavin_t reacted to this -
2 hours ago, choupolo said:What problem did @3782mc have with the J hook grooves?
Thanks for the list of pads, very useful.
Interesting! I might have seen a bit of this when not used HARD for a while but Iv never run my finger over it to feel, I assumed this was down to be running a pretty aggressive pad. Ill keep and eye out, I have only put a small grove in my discs when running my pads to low and the hangers were contacting the disc.
Do we know what pad he was using, and if he tried changing the pad to resolve this, as isnt pad deposits usual due to compound and what kind of temperature window you use them in?
3 minutes ago, Deacon said:It does
Ah nice! Thanks for highlighting this, I shall bare it in mine when I need new ones!
Deacon reacted to this -
1 hour ago, choupolo said:What problem did @3782mc have with the J hook grooves?
Thanks for the list of pads, very useful.
Second that? @will300 can you elaborate?
I have the Reyland kit, with Reyland J hook discs, and I don't believe I have had an issues, but I would be interested to know.
@Deacon does this mean Reyland do their own disc with curved veins now?
While we are on the topic of discs, I went with floating. If I was to do it again I wouldn't, at low town speed they rattle, even with anti rattle shims, but hey race car right?🙄
Braided lines, I choose to fit goodridge ones I had kicking around and not the ones that came with the Reyland kit this was only down to the fact the Reyland lines had no mounting bracket that goes on to the bottom of the shock, no other reason.
Overall I am very happy with the kit, simple to fit, and has resolved the issue of getting through discs and pads at a silly rate doing track days on the OEM callipers.
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interesting, this is where I would go after the GT86 possibly in GT4 guise. As I am charged the grunt wouldn't be as bigger jump. Look forward to hearing some more comparisons.
Looks really nice enjoy!
Luke reacted to this -
59 minutes ago, maurice said:I gave mine a fairly "decent" run in.
The UK seller let on in one of the forums he swaps his out on the road due to the noise, so I don't think it's an isolated problem. Probably differs depending on your local driving habits.
Ah okay, I know the seller, and if he say they can be noisy then they can hes a great guy. I personally never had an issue with it then.
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3 hours ago, maurice said:When I had XP8's in the front calipers they worked well on track but noise on the road was horrific. It's not a nice squeal either, sounds like something is broken.
If you didn't like the minor little squeal you get on OEM pads, well these are about x 10 of that.
I find it depends how you bed them in i think, give them death on the bedding in process and mine were quiet I had no noise issues like you describe.
3 hours ago, Luke said:I’ve read a few articles before stating that changing pads for track is a bad idea without changing the discs as well because the two bed together and changing one will require some bedding in time. Has anyone else heard of this or experienced it before?
Tends to only be an issue if one set of pads are bad for leaving deposits. I have no real experience of doing this though as i am hella lazy
Luke reacted to this -
As you know I didnt like my Ds2500 they went in the bin after 1 track day.
Best pads I used on the stock calliper was a carbotech XP8/10.
The other option would be to swap pads for track day then you get the best of both worlds
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20 minutes ago, Shad said:Cheers guys. I may see you out and about Martin, I'm only just up the road. Good to know the throttle can be cured ok - can the factory ECU be reprogrammed or is it a case of going for something standalone and a full mapping session?
It can be done with the stock ECU most use ECUTEK software
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I like the way it drives so unless thats better I have just lost interest! Dash is awful!
Luke reacted to this -
Looks like just another facelift! be interesting to know if any of the chassis is new
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Sounds to me like the clutch is dragging, which is why you cant grab a gear. I would start by bleeding it.
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All of the press drives seem to be done round devils Dyke but I have not seen one on the road yet
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13 hours ago, Luke said:Sorry to revive an old thread, but I’ve just bought a set of these from: https://www.design911.co.uk/fu/prod128126/Porsche-997-Brake-Duct-Air-Scoop-99734148392-99734148492/
Only £15 for the set and they were delivered within two days.
Hopefully going to fit them in the next week but I wonder if anyone had anymore pictures of them fitted without chopping them up. Just trying to avoid removing material and placing them in the optimal position.
IMAG4092 by Richard Beale, on Flickr
I trimmed them to fit round the bottle of the calliper or ball joint hard to tell in this pic can I have been to sleep many times and forgotten, also removed backing plates.
Did make a descent difference, and for the cost its a no brainer.
2030 electric legislation
in Newbies
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Been there done that. Mine is for tax reasons more than anything.
Long story short is the infrastructure is no where near there to support it yet, and I think it would be a struggle to get it sorted in just ten years.
Any questions fire away.