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Rich196

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Posts posted by Rich196

  3. Posted · Report reply

    On 6/8/2022 at 12:44 PM, MartinT said:

    It works - at least, for now!  I don't expect it to hold but I drove to work this morning after making the repair last night and the iAT showed +15C on the motorway and +20C in town, which is what I used to see.  Checking the radiator visually on arriving, there was no wet patch.

    I know I'll have to order a new one eventually but £980 + fitting is a bit eye-watering right now when I've had other big costs in the same month.

    Have you got any pictures of it? you must be able to have it re-cored or a new one made for less! Thats mad!

  6. Posted · Report reply

    15 minutes ago, Gon said:

    Thanks Rich196. I think your set up looks good and it does give me a good idea. Did you have to get droplinks/LCA for them to fit properly?

    Ok Mac I understand, thanks. I am leaning towards them due to all the positive reviews as well.

    I wish I could fit everything myself but am not that technically competent lol

    I am on coilovers, not sure how low I am running but not that low. No drop links or LCA required. I have seen some talks of people going up to a 255/35/18 on a 9.5 et35, but I think you'll need to be running over 2 degrees of negative camber, that will require top mounts on the front and LCA's on the rear.

  9. Posted · Report reply

    9 hours ago, MartinT said:

    Yes, I get that on my supercharged BRZ.  It doesn't bother me much as my commute is mostly medium-high speed but the pickup after slowing down for a roundabout, dropping to 2nd and then giving it some throttle is a momentary hesitation.

    Interestingly, throttle response at any other revs is lightning fast.

    I think this is exacerbated by the charger bypass valve on a charged setup but I do notice the same!

  10. Posted · Report reply

    @Jay Bamrah In response to your other post I have the reyland 330mm kit on the front, OEM on the back except for Carbotec XP10 pads.

    Regarding the difference between AP and Reyland, as mentioned above it was curved vanes, but now Reyland have curved vanes. After a bit of discussion with @will300 we have come to the conclusion that the AP's last a little longer, but on the flip side I do use a very aggressive pad, so its hard to quantify.

     

  12. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, Church said:

    I'd probably think via guiding by what is usually called reasonable lowering for twins, and what is - excessive. Most commonly people say that lowering within 1 inch is former, and advise to add extra parts to fix geometry and other issues, if you lower even more (eg. said roll center correction kit, diff riser and so on).

    Can you get a diff riser kit in the UK? Dont think I have seen one!

  14. Posted · Report reply

    Pedal straight to the floor I would say means boiled fluid. I always use RBF600 on anything I track its just not worth the risk in my opinion. Its probably one of the bigger stops in the UK so fluid and better pads will tided you over. 

    With the charger my experience was DS2500 didn't cut it and they faded after a lap or two. I then when to a carbotec XP10 and they didn't fade except on the ring GP, but that used to have the biggest brake in F1. I also added brake cooling ducts off a GT3. I think they are about £30.

    50936867547_7dcb6a110f_k.jpg2020-10-12_09-21-03 by Richard Beale, on Flickr

  20. Posted · Report reply

    1 hour ago, MartinT said:

    All booked for 17 March. Going to have to drive gently until then.

    I'll let you know how it feels once done.

    Out of interest, how many miles on the clutch and how many were boosted?

    Mine came out at 35k miles at recal, can it had plently of life in it?

    Are you going for a lightened flywheel too?

     

  21. Posted · Report reply

    11 hours ago, MartinT said:

    My clutch has started slipping - it happens when I'm applying the beans at maximum torque and resistance, so 3500rpm in 6th.

    I've had Abbey Motorsport quote me for a Stage 1 Exedy clutch installation.  Just have to sort out a date.

    Is anyone here using an Exedy clutch?

    No, but let me know how you get on. I have a light weight flywheel waiting to go in, but need to settle on a clutch.

  22. Posted · Report reply

    I have no issue with coolant or oil temps, but I want to get more air out the engine back, but I have yet to see data proof of the benefits. I think the bonnet vents will definitely give the air somewhere to go out the back of the rad.

    I assume your on standalone management and not stock?

  23. Posted · Report reply

    13 hours ago, BOBEL said:

    Yes I probably will revert to original setup just to measure the exact difference, I imagine it is most likely +10psi at the front cover, and that would line up pretty close to your own figures @ 100 Deg C

     

    I’m running the HKS cooler with 5W-40 oil so I imagine we would be quiet similar minus the oil pump difference, although I’m not sure that’s netting me much by the look of it.

    So does that mean my numbers are +10 on on yours as your measuring at the main a the top of the block? Would be really interested to see the difference before and after the mod.

    I would be also interest to know if your monitor IAT, if there it a noticeable difference before and after bonnet vents.

     

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Are you going to take before and after measurements from both oil pressure sensor locations? with and without the new main oil feed to see what actual difference it makes?

    I run an HSK oil cooler, 5w30 oil, and my oil pressure sensor is in place of the OEM pressure switch. Im cosworth charged to. On the road cruising at 70mph in 6th, with an oil temp of 75C I see 85PSI pressure. On a track day with oil at around 100C I see around 65 PSI at 7k RPM. IIRC

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