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Everything posted by Rich
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What's the sound deadening insulation you used in the rear quarter panels?
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I'd replace. Not having a clutch spring could cause additional wear on the throwout bearing from the pedal weight.
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Mine is lowered 15-20 mm and the rear camber is close to -2°, front is similar but I have adjustable top mounts there. Front camber with lowering alone is tricky as it's MacPherson strut so while you will get a bit of negative camber as you lower it, it can actually go positive if you get it low enough, or if you corner hard on a lowered car. The double wishbone rear (it's not multilink Church) is more predictable and just gains negative camber with lowering and compression.
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I think I got more out of the camber adjustments than the coilovers themselves. Supercharger is a couple of decibels extra noise. It won't be crazy at all with the stock catback. MPG will probably be decreased a little, though how much you can alleviate that through moderating your right foot I'm not sure. Most folk with superchargers will use the extra power, which obviously uses extra fuel. I wouldn't trade it for the Mustang personally, the extra weight will dull things down too much, without even the V8 to make up for it. Something to consider, a supercharged GT86 (280 bhp) is 224 bhp/ton, the 2.3 Mustang is 194, the Giulia a little over 200. The GT86 has the best handling chassis of all three too (lightest and lowest).
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If you try to pursue the other driver directly they are well within their rights (and would be sensible to) direct you to their insurance company. At which point it's back to an insurance claim. Far easier to just go through insurance to start with.
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I assume it's all the robbers.
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Why put himself out of pocket? You don't pay your excess for non-fault damage, so that doesn't matter.
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Old folks get stung for being old, cheapest is middle aged.
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Gave it proper run today. Sounds great, the whistle is gone, just a nice boxer rumble now. Very slight whooshing sounds under full throttle which is normal for a bare stainless system. Prior to the change I had a very uneven idle abs the car felt a little down on power, that seems to be fixed now, it's pulling properly again. Also I reset the CEL and its not come back on so it seems like that is fixed too.
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So it's time to start a build thread, for my ginger 86, which has become known as "Max Weapon" since the plate more or less spells that, and I like it in an 80s action hero kind of way. Previously I'd fitted a K&N drop in air filter, but today he got his first proper mod, a new exhaust manifold and overpipe. I'd like to post pics, but in the excitement of trying to get it done myself before my garage time ran out I forgot to take any. I also forgot to put the undertrays back on, oops. Guess I'll be under the car on axle stands tomorrow for that. I'll try to snap a pic of the manifold while I'm at it. Also planned for today was a Milltek secondary cat back, but that was stumped as I couldn't get the midpipe to join to the stock front pipe correctly. Any hints from anyone who has fitted one? Results so far are fairly minimal noise wise. Since I'm running the majority of the stock pipe it's not gotten much louder. There's a definite change in tone from the UEL manifold though. Looking forward to the proper sound when I get the cat back on. Not noticed a big difference in power either really, but I'm due in for a remap at TD next weekend, so I think that will be when I properly feel it.
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So to fix the broken manifold I opted for a new TD UEL. Definitely looks the part. I also took the opportunity to heatshield the sump and the intake where it passes near the manifold.
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anyone have a Borla UEL manifold for sale?
Rich replied to DanHouse's topic in Wanted GT86 / BRZ Cars and Parts
Why a Borla out of interest? -
Only if you get a 3 point compatible HANS.
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anyone have a Borla UEL manifold for sale?
Rich replied to DanHouse's topic in Wanted GT86 / BRZ Cars and Parts
I have a shonky 1320 manifold that needs a bit of welding if you fancy a bargain... -
I'd be happy in an ASM harness like Lauren has. After all road cars have an integral roll cage these days, granted not as strong as a race spec one, but it's a far cry from the old days when cars would pancake to the door line if you flipped them. There's some interesting stuff here: https://www-nrd.nhtsa.dot.gov/pdf/esv/esv17/Proceed/00006.pdf Interesting conclusion: The roll cage increased the roof strength, as would be measured in FMVSS 216, to about seven times the weight of the vehicle. We believe that a factor of four would be adequate, but it would have to be applied at greater roll and pitch angles, perhaps a roll angle of 45 degrees and a pitch angle of 7.5 degrees. This suggests that at 5 times the vehicles weight, the GT86 roof is adequate to prevent neck injury on a roll over, without a supplemental cage. Depending on how that number was tested.
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Time for an update. Been a quiet year (house buying and selling getting in the way). My 1320 manifold has finally destroyed it's crappy flexi joints. I was considering getting them replaced anyway, but now I'm thinking I'll just ditch the manifold and get a new one that's less temperamental. Anyone want a cheap manifold that needs a bit of welding?
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Their "spec" is for some sort of "typical" output, a pure sine wave current is also given, it's 200A! The specs are here: https://www.rockfordfosgate.com/products/details/t1500-1bdcp/ Average Current Draw (13.8V Music) 100 A Max. Current Draw (13.8V Sinewave) 200 A That sine wave would be over the recommended wiring spec mind you, as well as drawing a lot of current from the alternator.
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Spec is 140A for the amps (100A for the t1500, 40A for the 60), which could exceed the standard alternator output (130A apparently). You should look into an upgrade if you intend to run them loud. Also 100A is pretty close to the maximum the specced cable can carry.
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No idea. I doubt they fudged it, it was done at RRG Toyota not some dodgy back street. A properly working cat should give very low values on closed loop, those readings are certainly not outside the realms of possibility. It might just show 0 if it's under the threshold for detection, which could be fairly high (given it doesn't fail until 0.2%).
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I'm running a TD tune incidentally, though not their manifold.
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Sure, here's one from mine, UEL catless manifold, stock front pipe:
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Sadly for me the difference is a little more than slight. It would probably buy all the parts on my car just from the increase.
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I hired a lift in a DIY garage place, made it a lot easier. It's a bit of a pain doing that sort of thing on axle stands.