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JohnM

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Posts posted by JohnM

  1. Posted · Report reply

    There are 2 motors attached to the side of the heater system behind the front dash fascia. If you remove the glove box u can see the bottom motor. Its black with a large white cog on the side. If thats the one u should be able to remove and replace without removing the dashboard. If its the top motor then it is a dash out job.

    see the attached post to put the system into test mode:  Climate control error codes - GT86/BRZ General Chat - Toyota GT86 and Subaru BRZ Drivers Club

    willclarke reacted to this

  10. Posted · Report reply

    Everything in the boot is held in by push clips, so very easy to remove. If u havnt got a spare wheel then the foam sections are also held in with pop clips. remove them and they all just lift out. The rear seats are held in with 1x10mm bolt at the front. Undo the bolt , lift the front of the seat base up whilst pushing down on the back section. You should hear a click when the rear brackets unclip from there mounting points. When you do the rear seats just be careful of the fuel pump wiring underneath the passenger side. 

    Yes stick it directly to bare metal. It took around 1 hr to do the boot, 1/4 panels and under the rear seats when I did my sub install so its not a big job. Its not something you wanna do when the weather is naff though. Defiantly add some to the inside of the doors if you like listening to music, as it does make a difference (also helps if you get rid of the oem speakers, but that's a whole different kettle of fish)

    You can use anything really, just don't pay over the odds for a name (dynamat springs to mind). I used a brand called silent coat off ebay. Easy to mold and cut to any shape. Do a search for sound deadening on ebay and you are spoilt for choice.

  11. Posted · Report reply

    I would factor in sound deadening the boot and under the rear seats if you do decide to go with a rear box delete. Im currently running an Invidia N1 and the drone between 2500 and 5000 revs was bearable but very noticable, so adding the soundproofing softens the resonance. I did try the rear delete before getting the N1 but the drone and added resonance above 3000 revs was too much even for me. It sounded awesome from outside the car but way too much for a daily drive.

  12. Posted · Report reply

    19 hours ago, Jay Bamrah said:

    HT AUTOS front splitter.
     

    To be honest I don’t know if coilovers are worth it as good ones are thousands + if I damage my front bumper that’s loads and I will be worried about driving to the point where I can’t just drive u know. 

     

     

    Coilovers are defiantly worth it but you dont need to spend thousands. 

    If you are just using the car as a daily then Tein do an Advance Street Z model which can be obtained for just under the £500 mark. They are an entry level coilover that is an upgrade from the oem suspension with the ability to adjust ride height and some very mild damper settings. I have been running them on mine for just over a year now and I am more than happy with the results. I didnt want to go with the lowering spring option and I also couldnt justify the cost of the higher priced coilovers as I would never use all the adjustment features that they come with based on the amount of miles I do per year. Plus I never plan on tracking the car so the Advance Z'S ticked the boxes for me

    The lip looks the same drop as the maxton lip so if you do lower it, personally you wont be able to drop it more than 20mm otherwise it will catch. Even at a 15mm drop I had issues with steep inclines and some of the more higher of the speed bumps. The HT autos is suppose to be abit more forgiving than the maxton one ,as that one does become brittle over time, which is why when mine eventually broke I swapped it for something that doesnt mount so low under the bumper.

  14. Posted · Report reply

    If its the same as the earlier models try numbering the folders before the name and also go into the folder properties, under details and add the same number in the # section. (So 1: Title Name).

    Do this on your PC and then drop them onto the usb stick. Ive found if you edit them directly onto the usb it doesnt work. 

     

  15. Posted · Report reply

    I would cross the N1 off your list if you only want it slightly louder than stock. I'm running one and its plenty loud even with the rest of the system stock.

    Also if you have the space have a go at fitting it yourself. It only took me just over 1 hr to fit and that was on a driveway.

  16. Posted · Report reply

    On 4/23/2021 at 10:54 PM, Tango said:

    Thanks for the replies JohnM

    Can I ask is the USB option greyed out on your car before you add a usb stick?

    I've left the usb stick in the car but pretty sure its 16GB and I used the standard Windows 10 formatting program. I think that was FAT32 but once again I'll check tomorrow.

    Yes. The usb option only highlights when there is a usb in the slot. Might be worth checking to see if it has become unplugged behind the dash. 

  17. Posted · Report reply

    On 4/24/2021 at 11:45 AM, Church said:

    Are you sure? Though not with 2017's T&G2, with older T&G1 i'm using 128G usb stick now.

    Yep. Tried a 32gb one and it didnt recognise the stick, dropped it down to 16gb and worked no issues. What make of usb are you using please as I would love to be able to use a 128gb one rather than using 2 separate sticks. The radio is a T&G1 in a 2014. Thanks.

  20. Posted · Report reply

    Have to admit that I'm not feeling the love for either model and will quite happily be sticking to my 2014 version. Whilst the 2.4 ltr engine is a nice subtle upgrade the rest of the car as far as looks, styling and interior just dont do it for me. 

    BRZ-123, Leeky and DuncanM reacted to this

  21. Posted · Report reply

    Just now, Whizo said:

    £300 is a bargain, I paid £706 but I know some other places are selling it for approx £800!

    I was saving up for an MXP comp RS exhaust and was lucky enough to pick up the N1 instead. He was only selling as his neighbours were complaining to his parents as it was too loud when it was paired with an UEL header he had already fitted. 

  23. Posted · Report reply

    20 minutes ago, Whizo said:

    Thanks JohnM.  Do you have a link to the Facebook ad, I don’t mind a swap and some cash, depends on the condition of the exhaust and how much he wants for it. Sometimes it’s better to buy new with a warranty instead of trying to save a few quid.

    I dont im afraid. I did try and find it so it might have been sold. It did look in mint condition though. If your not on the facebook forum its worth signing up as thats where I got mine from.

  24. Posted · Report reply

    Exhausts : Invidia 12 Scion GT86/BRZ 60mm N1 Ti-Tip Cat- ... (jm-imports-store.co.uk)

    Invidia Toyota GT86/Subaru BRZ (12+) N1 Cat-Back Exhaust- Titanium Tip (tarmacsportz.co.uk)

    Japanese performance car parts, cheapest Japanese car accessories UK, JDM car parts Invidia N1 Cat-Back Exhaust System (funkypower.com)

    Somebody was selling one over on the facebook group but it was a swap plus cash for the stock exhaust. Not sure if its still on there though.

    You could also try Lucas at www.Part-box.com

  25. Posted · Report reply

    17 hours ago, Whizo said:

    Was aligning the tips difficult? Is there much wiggle room or give? I am guessing this is done by moving around the rubber hangers?

    I have heard that getting the exhaust off and on the rubber mounts is the hardest part, how did you find it?  Thanks.

    It was just a case of small adjustments, re-adjust hangers before the final tighten up. If anything it would have been better to let the exhaust settle itself for a couple of days and then re-adjust if required. In truth it took alot less time than I was expecting, but the weather was alot better than it is now and I did have a 2nd pair of hands just in case.

    You can buy a specific tool to remove the rubber hangers from fleabay, this made the whole job alot easier and no wd40 was required. They all came off first try. 

    The N1 is loud, so if drone is going to be an issue then I would look at a different exhaust. Although I have added sound deadening to the boot area and under the rear seats  which does seem to reduce it, it does take a while to get use to especially coming from the stock system.

    If you are planning on working on the car yourself then it maybe worth investing in a Jack/axle stands setup rather than paying a garage to do the work for you. If this isnt the route you wanna go then I would pay a garage to fit it for you. The beauty with this car is that there are hundreds of how to videos on youtube for pretty much anything you would want to do but I still have a trusted garage that I use should the need arise.

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