Mike

I've had the 2nd one, but it went on it's own like yours. Gary suggested it could be something as simple as a stone / debris in shielding behind the brake discs so just as easily fell out as it got in. I've had rubber marbles on the top of the brake pads before on a track day so I can see that a stone or something could easily flick up and get caught somewhere. Roads I was driving at the time had just been "resurfaced" so plenty of loose stones to flick up

What are you aligning with the shims?

How much pad life is left & any ideas on postage costs? Have you still got fitting instructions?

The bbk is the top option off the reyland site right?

Not to mention the front bumper... came across the first gritter yesterday, had to bail off on a diversion to avoid it

Not been round the triangle for a while but I don't remember thinking much over 60 on the A543 was the best of ideas anyway!

Picked up a set of the Focal IS165TOY that I'm intending on fitting at the weekend. While the door cards will be off, figured I'd add some sound deadening as well... For those that have done it, what's the best approach? Material on the inside of the inner skin of the door or somewhere else? Pics would be splendid

Wheelbase are crap at communication, you can get the Dekagrams from performance alloys but they're £200 more Some places don't have all fitments, I found the stuttgart sf1, on their site they do them in 17x8 5x100 but no site seems to say they're available!

Dunno if they're the same ones TD sell but they've been fine for me

Either RRG in Macclesfield as Lauren says or just hire a garage/ramp out. I've used Ufixautos before in Warrington which shouldn't be far

Where abouts in Manchester?

Ha, emailed them and said £860 now, probably a decent amount cheaper to import them yourself

Where was that from? I got told £679 from wheelbase but not sure if it's correct or not

Aren't those rubber bits there to stop the bonnet being too low? If you raise them, all you'll do is make the bonnet sit high all the time rather than at speed?

Found a better manual, and if I'm reading it right, 42nm for the nut that holds the buckle on, 30nm for the other 2, which seems odd if the rear seat belt one is difficult to get off!

Did anyone torque the bolts up to specific values or just go with nice and tight? Part of me thinks they should be as it's a safety thing but I can't find them in the stupidly long repair manual

I don't think so, not heard anyone have any issues with it... I've since had my clutch replaced and it's not started squeaking since but it squeaked for a good 2 or 3 years without issue

It's a pain in the arse to grease apparently. I didn't even bother doing anything with mine, other than making a noise, it's not a problem. Of the ones I've heard, we've all had it appear after track days so thrashing it isn't going to stop it. It'll just need greasing properly/thoroughly but will probably start squeaking again at some point in the future...

Is that the squeak you're talking about?

Coilpack? Read the code with an obd dongle

Rough price on the bbk?

Cool, will have a think. Would have to have a look in person though and compare it to mine. Going off the pics, was it painted separate away from the car? Trying to find somewhere that have experience of painting the pearl white and can match it!

What's the paint match like? Hard to really tell from the pics because of processing + reflections on them! Assuming you had it painted, where did it get done?

Thats because you're at the front, try being near the back and the chase is obvious