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sam534

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Posts posted by sam534


  1. Update 02/12/18 - Hel Oil Cooler
    If you read my previous update on the 08/09/18, you'll see that I had a Hel Oil Cooler fitted by Rogue Motorsport with a 92°c thermostat.
    As the temperature has now dropped down into single digits I noticed my oil temps were quite low. 
    I'd already spoken to [mention=238]Keethos[/mention] about the issue before the cooler was fitted, he suggested we 3d print a cover that can be easily attached to the oil cooler to block it off. 
    I also purchased a piece of foam with a sticky backing, which I stuck to the 3d printed cover. This would absorb any vibrations and stop the oil cooler from getting damaged. 
    The cover has been cable tied around the oil cooler to hold it in place.
    A quick test has shown that my oil now gets up to temperature quicker and is at least 10°c higher than before (without the blanking plate).
    47200936_1995586590549237_2914172655076638720_n.jpg.20811c68acee59771b757eec6e843cb5.jpg
    47323934_2112801122115506_2854060116708163584_n.jpg.797a7b29b3f81057d2322dbb5b5e4908.jpg
    47201676_550117595393692_6375423512579932160_n.thumb.jpg.085f11c5dc0426e4cd1759de1f5f8111.jpg
    47315400_317445592189736_6284539646659526656_n.jpg.a2d157d4712b68821e2e1964ed17fa30.jpg
    Looks smart Will

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  2. Right 86ers bit of a story...

     

    Misses bought a car 3 years ago 3,500 grand Nissan micra c+c, her first car, she loves it.

     

    She trusts her dad with all the maintenance he's quite a proud man and cannot be told a thing.

     

    She had an oil leak the other day turns out the filter was leaking, she got it changed, all is good. I asked her when it was last changed, she didn't know, sent me her service history and the last stamp was 9k miles and 2009. Bare in mind it's now done 54k miles. It definetly hasn't been serviced in 3 years, could be 9 worst case!

     

    She got hit in the back the other day and the insurance is giving her two options, 1900 quid and the car is written off.... Or 1600 and they don't write it off and the mechanic will repair it for them at a later date....

     

    I'm saying this is a blessing in disguise, that engine can't have much left in it even if you now service it properly. Write it off take the 1900 and get a new car. What does everyone think?

     

    It'll be fine just service it now or...

     

    Burn it with fire!

     

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  3. [mention=3345]Kaltorak[/mention] If you don't want to go crazy with OE replacement discs, just go with these National Auto Brake Discs that I'm using combined with PFC Z-Rated Brake Pads.. I dare to say that PFC Z-Rated pads are the best fast road pads you can buy.. National Auto discs are cheap & cheerful replacement for stock discs. They are grooved so they improve the initial bite of the pads so it does improve braking a little bit too Noticeable change and for that price, you can't go wrong. We offer a forum discount as well and free UPS shipping.
    Lucas do you do rears?

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  4. Looking for anyone who has had a a throbbing/rubbing noise, coming from front left wheel but only between 30-40 Mph. Did a track day Wednesday so my first thought was wheel bearing but I would've thought it would continue to get louder the faster I went and not disappear after 40 ish Mph.

     

    Maybe it's just a bit of pad on the brakes? Still a bit of pickup on the tyres, so uneven tyre noise? Not sure.

     

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  5. Thanks its been a fun journey. 

    I have the Defi Racer Red oil pressure guage. 
     
    I only have the moroso a week. It casued oil starvation simply by holding revs above 6krpm. Basically its a piece of junk IMO. 
     
    Before and after that I just had the stock sump and made sure it was topped up before a trackday.  I fitted the cosworth item as it was cheap and had been tested on their dev car for two years prior to release.  One day I might run slick tyres....
    Ade, what oil pressures do you back off at at track days something like when it drops to 50psi at 6k?

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  6. Ouch. I hadn't even considered to check EU prices. They were so way cheaper in US shops with cost like $245 per wheel and such. Well, then looks like my suggestion too far out of stated budget.
    Then how about Team Dynamics Pro Race 1.2?
    Decent wheels.

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  7. Not entirely true.  Most head units will put out 15w rms.  Best of the best maybe 20-25w rms.  I've never seen one rated higher but I'll hold my hand up if you can find one.  An inexpensive amp will give you 45-50w rms and allow for 4 channels to be bridged to 2 giving 90-100w rms.  The focals are rated at 60w rms so really could do with a bit more power than what a head unit can supply.  I've tried the focals with and without an amp and they've definitely got a lot more to give with an amp.  The amp I installed was plug and play anyway so no messing about with running extra cables or powering from battery. 
     
    What's the amp you used mate? Seems very simple.

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