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Posts posted by sam534
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Sold!
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Vland tail lights for sale all working order £150 can post for £10.
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Going to give this a bump and knock down to £500
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No drone with my cobra resonated nice and throaty. Will be for sale soon
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Hey, just curious but why are you selling? Selling car or new route like UEL header?
Hello Jay, selling the car as I need to do more mileage and want to start tracking more.
Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkJay Bamrah reacted to this -
Had this on my shelf for a while, doesn't need much introduction, new this would cost 800-900. I'm selling for 500.
TD will remap the car and provide ecutek license for 550 so you get the famous NA package for 1050 rather than 1500. Bargain!
Located on the m1 near Nottingham
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I would see if another red gt86 wants to swap boots with you. Lots of people want a plain boot to add their own spoiler on without having to fix the holes that are left behind by the standard spoiler. Changing boots is a very simple job of a matter of a few bolts on the hinges unplugging and chasing through the wiring for the number plate lights and changing number plates.
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tomlee80 reacted to this -
Glad it helped mate!Just wanted to say thank you to you [mention=2794]sam534[/mention] for making this tutorial. I found it very helpful especially noting down the part numbers and identifying which wire did what in the dashboard tweeters. I’ve recently upgraded the speakers and treated the doors to some rust protection and sound deadening material. The sound quality is vastly improved and the door doesn’t rattle so much from the bass in the better speakers. Job well done.
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Little trip for a walk round one of our local manor houses. Living next to the peak district has its perks.
Sent from my COL-L29 using TapatalkCherryBomb reacted to this -
I've always been stung at customs from the half a dozen things I have bought. If your buying from US expect to get taxes and customs charges every time. If you don't get pinged then your very lucky.Hi all.
I have wanted to modify my GT86 since the day I bought it. My plan was to buy these mods -
Valenti Revo Rear Lights
Vland Front Lights
Invidia N1 Cat Back Exhaust
Tein Flex Z Coilovers or Lowering Springs
New Alloys and Tyres
As well as the above I was going to get a few other bits but the above is the bulk of what I wanted to do.
Now after some research on prices I have found that if you buy direct from the US and include postage you save a ton of money. I am not sure if all these items will be subject to import tax and VAT but in some cases you are still better off buying from the US. Has anyone else here purchased their mods outside of the UK and if you have how did you find the process? Did you get stung by customs or where you one of the lucky ones who’s items slipped through?
I guess I am a little shocked at the price difference. Can’t believe how much we get shafted in the UK. Actually surprised anyone can actually afford to mod their cars!
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I must admit my experience of most aftermarket coilovers especially with solid topmounts is that they are noisy. I get the odd knocking with my tein Flex As at low speeds on minor bumps but I put that down to them being the cheaper end of coilovers.
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Yes pal that would be fine as long as each axle is equal.
Most tend to go for et35 with 8 inch wide wheel which is 11mm further out, you can put a ruler or tape measure and check to see if yiud be happy with the offset. But I like your plan of getting 2 new wheels, likely they will be slightly different colour so budget 250 for a refurb
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Are you looking to replace all of them or just a single one? If your looking to replace all then you can go with whatever specs you like. If you want to replace one it sounds like you've got a challenge, if the colour is the same you could buy at et48 and use a 2mm spacer, maybe.
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Simple worksThat sounds so .. horribly simplistic & basic!
Probably more reliable than the electronic type ... on my old Alfa the wires to the pad sensors fell out after a couple of months! They weren't cheap pads either (they were a good brand as when I use the brakes I want to stop!) I super-glued them back in the holes in the pads to stop them flopping around but doubt they would work. I just had to check them more often visually.
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I use rbf600 as its simple and easy and to have the piece of mind that your fluid won't boil on track is worth the couple of extra quid cost on fluid and to do a yearly change.Project Mu do seem to get good reviews. Have all those above who are running non stock pads also gone in for uprated brake fluid? And braided lines for good measure? Or are a set of decent pads and a well maintained brake system all that's needed unless going all the way with a BBK?
Luke, hope you don't mind me jumping in on your thread. I thought it would be useful to hear what people also think about fluid and hoses as well.....and, because like you, I'm at thst stage of needing to replace pads and thinking an upgrade is in order
I haven't don't lines yet.
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Shippers reacted to this -
BBK will be vastly different to stock brake. Pads won't reach the temperature you get on stock pads as fast due to more metal absorbing the heat.Check disks if you feel judder. I had a slight lip on my, giving judder only when braking at speed over 80 mph (Paddock Hill at Brands was very challenging due to vibration).
My experience with pads so far (Ksports BBK fronts, stock rear)
- ECB Yellowstuff were absolutely fine, good combination for daily and occasional track day. Not too much dust, no noise. Dont last though, particularly after going FI.
- DS2500 front, ECB Yellowstuff rear - ok, but much better with ECB Bluestuff rear. Good life (fronts after 5 track days were just over 1/2 worn, rears lasted over 2 yrs, probably 15+ track days would have lasted couple more). Lots more dust, occasional sqeel but not too bad.
I have tried ECB Bluestuff on front and rear, but fronts crumbled on edges and I got a lip on the disk, hence had to change them.
After putting BBK on rear as well (DS2500 front and rear) brakes still feel weird with ABS engaging way too early (better in track mode, but Bedford was not to try it out tbf). Need another track day to get used to them.
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Hello mate I use ebc yellow stuff on the rear with pfc z front. In no way are these track pads but will survive on track longer than OEM. I have no issue with noise daily driving.
The pfc z pads do get spongy after 15 mins on track I tend to push another lap then come in. But also note I'm a rookie track day driver.
The answer that is obvious is that there isn't a pad that does both well. Best idea is to run two sets of pads.
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If anything it is probably ingrained dirt that would come out with a clay bar and some polish
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Spares incase I bend it on trackIl have to ask my dad what postage costs I have not got the slightest clue il get back to you when I know! One question though if you prefer the 86ones why do you want them?
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I'll give you £100 for them if you can post? Let me know the cost of postage
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Left is gt86 and right is brz
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Just so you know the BRZ headlight are different to the 86 as you say but the 86 have the DRL in them and the indicator on the bumper. The brz are the other way around. Personally I prefer the 86 headlight. I am unsure whether you can mix and match the wiring may be different.
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You can spray carbon fibre yes no problem. Cant comment on supplier
Sent from my COL-L29 using TapatalkJay Bamrah reacted to this -
I quite like the small ducktail bootlid and the 2.4l engine should lend itself to even better power upgrades and boost. It looks good in silver, less good in Subaru blue.
It's no biggie over ours but let's respect the fact that it keeps the concept going where we thought the model might be dead. With the latest government announcement about battery cars we have one more decade to buy this sort of car. Enjoy it while it lasts!
It’s even higher compression at 13.5:1 it will like boost less than our current cars
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Vland tail lights
in For Sale GT86 / BRZ Parts
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Sold
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