sam534
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Posts posted by sam534
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I saw a video of someone fitting one of those, I'd be interested to hear exactly how much difference this makes! Certainly easier on the fitting front, and would also warm the oil quicker.I normally back off at around 130C oil temp, but as Lauren says, it does stabilise to some extent around that temperature.
I'm looking to fit a Laminova oil to water cooler this year; hopefully I'll have proper car working space soon.
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Looks like a well designed piece of kit.sam534: btw, what i myself am considering from future mods, is jackson racing kit with main rad that has integrated oil rad. Not sure if it can be used ok on RHD. I know it has some clearance issues with MY2017 revised airbox. Still liking idea of more effective heat dissipation vs stacked rads with oil rad in front of main, more compactness, and that it not just cools oil, it can also heat it up sooner from water (sooner heating up) running near IIRC. Expensive kit though
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Feel I am all clued up on oil and track now! Oh for sure I think if I do 2 track days this spring/summer I'll change the oil after the second and if I have temperature issues then I'll install an oil cooler at the same time.Apart from how hot oil can get, there is also such thing as recommended working temps. If too cold, imho oil might also not work properly. So i guess it's worth to get something with thermostat, which will decide if oil needs cooled more or not. I'd think that 110C might be normal temps, oil doesn't need to be cooler then eg. water boiling temps. But if redlined/used heavy on track,, or sometimes even if idling in standstill traffic on some hot summer day, oil may get too hot, and not just reducing pressure, but also it can degrade much quicker overheated, requiring change more often. Car can be tracked everything stock, but i'd change oil then very often, eg. every few thousand track miles, not doing it just when it's due scheduled regular maintenance.
Some forester style L2O coolers might be sufficient for light track use, but if one tracks often, i guess normal external oil A2O rad might be mod worth to consider, to ensure proper oiling and longetivity of engine.
P.S. Regarding oiling our cars may have some other shortcomings too, eg. if running on high-grip tires and or lot of aero downforce getting oil starving in long high G turns at least without some sump mods to increase oil capacity or some means to better direct where it goes when with side-Gs.
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Thanks deacon, I was curious to your problem, a number of things adding up by the looks of it. Looks like different fittings may work.... Bit of a bad design to be honest!Sadly not. Here's a picture of the problem.
Oil cooler pipes need the stock airbox manipulating to clear:-
There's no room to mount the sandwich plate the other way due to the hard lines.
You may be able to get more 'angled' pieces going into the sandwich plate (I'm not sure on this) or HKS/Greddy etc do a sandwich plate where the fixings go straight up vertically rather than horizontally which would also give the necessary clearance.
I'm swapping to an induction kit which will get rid of the problem (the hks oil cap on mine also makes it slightly worse than the plastic oem cap).
I had a gauge fitted giving me oil temps and pressure. The oil temp is tapped into the sump and pressure is read from the block.
Before fitting the cooler I was seeing temps getting into the mid 120's within three flying laps at Bedford so having to do a cool down lap and give it a 20 min break before going back out again.
Post cooler temps didn't get much above about 115 and my sessions were only curtailed by my knackeredness!
As Knightyrider said the killer is the pressure drop at higher temps.
I'm currently running 0w30 and even just driving home with a temp of about 83 the pressure drops to low teens at idle. If you're tracking a bit I'd definitely get an oil cooler sorted. Seeing the pressure drops (plummet) was enough to convince me!
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Put me down! Determined to make meets this year. Anyone heading from Derby?
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Indeed, I am guessing the other thing to this is the oil pump will have to work a little harder with a greater viscosity of oil, when the temps are lower for daily driving. I'm sure that isn't much of an issue though.Modern decent oil will protect better and last longer at higher temps than older oils. The issue is that with high temps you see the oil pressures drop and that is really more key than a temperature limit. Standard OW20 oils will likely be thinner at higher temps than a thicker oil, so a 5W30 oil would give you better pressures under extended running.
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Can it be mounted the other way round?Depends on the cooler you get, but the one I have, the connectors will end up touching the back of the airbox, [mention=277]Deacon[/mention] will be able to give more detail and/or a picture as he's already had his fitted
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Have you an idea on the fitting then mate? What's the issue exactly?I've had one sat under my table for a year
need to get a high temp thermostat and decide what to do about the airbox getting in the way a little
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Great, all good information, I'll keep an eye on the temps for my first couple if track days, oil cooler is added to the list.This. Going off the Torque app's figures, the oil can cool quickly but heat back up just as quick. Even in November I was struggling to do more than 2 hot laps and having the oil below 125c.
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Just starting up so want to see how it goes before buying more kit. So would you say in the 120's time to take a break?Coolant seems to stay reasonable but oil gets very hot, I have seen 129° during a track session. My advice would be fit an oil cooler if you do a lot of track days, TD do a good kit at sensible money.
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Can someone tell me the recommended cap for oil and coolant temps for our engines, I. E. On track at what level should I ease off and head to cool down (if it gets to that point)?
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I bought this one.
Was from a UK seller so will have it this week.
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Elm+327&client=ms-android-huawei&sa=X&biw=360&bih=560&tbs=vw:l,ss:44&tbm=shop&prmd=svin&srpd=15346082148704749374&prds=num:1,of:1,epd:15346082148704749374,paur:ClkAsKraX7YP6vxx2VtU8iidBeDdYZ-a0MhD6Mt29pZK37P9E1NZozTnuk-fuhDlJ22XxjQ9f170_R0WuqFRDUDIeILjS3DRyLtJvNOTX9aoSQ2zSShLtCsGoRIZAFPVH70pj7gULYQbhHFfSJ16yiPYw9Dw2Q&ved=0ahUKEwjl26u_ru7YAhXjD8AKHRM6ALIQgjYIygM
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Fantastic, any recommendations for OBD2 adapters? And is that the torque app on your joying hu?You can custom add the oil temp for the 86 it just requires some manual config rather than picking off the list.
Do you guys unplug the adapter or leave it in all the time
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How have you got the oil temp? I thought this wasn't possible?I use an OBD for signals to my Android head unit, quite good on track.
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Not knowing how much is left in the gear, and due to not having much cash at the moment, £50. If that's to low, no worries.
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How much left in the gtechniq gear?
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Might be able to get one online I suppose, I'm not sure sorry mate.So is there an online place i can order or does it have to come via a toyota dealer? as id rather bypass them until i need stamps
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Any dealer should be able to strap it... As they all have the records, that's the point of it being online.I'm pleased there is two of us who feel the sameSent from my STF-L09 using Tapatalk
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I asked for a book as well and the guy retro stamped the past 2 year of servicing for me.
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Exactly, seems to be doing well, didn't have time to do a full paint seal before winter set in.Nice. I really like BSD for this time of year, it’s much more like a sealant than a QD, so perfect for topping up protection in double quick time when it’s chilly out.
Mixing it 50:50 with Adams quick detailer gives a great glossy finish from the Adams and also makes applying BSD a doddle.
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Spent 3 weeks in the countryside back at my hometown for Christmas and the car got filthy! So I was taking some pictures and thought I'd share my cleaning process, this might turn into a detailing thread as I have plans to get my DA into work this spring.
First off the state of the car.
Lots of dirt and grime.
First up the wheels, these get sprayed with a AG wheel protection spray can every wash, not the best but I'm using it up, works pretty well but does not last at all.
Jet wash only turns them up pretty clean.
Then with a full shampoo clean using BH auto wash, a noddle mitt and wheel woollies in bucket no. 1.
Onto the paint work! As it was really grimey I though I'd hit it with all the tools. So after a jet wash to get rid of the big stuff first, a citrus pre-wash by valet pro 1:10 ratio, this is fairly weak for this much grime as normally I do a weekly wash.
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Then it was onto BH Autofoam, and first time using this, used a mesto foamer. From what I understand 4% dilution and as long as you get the panel wet with the stuff it's working.
Right so most of the grime is off now, time for the two bucket wash, again BH Autowash and my incredipad.
Unfortunately I hadnt been able to put winter protection on so have been just using sonax bsd and Adams quick detailer 50:50 after every wash. The protection is still working ish after 3 weeks of grime washed away.
And there she is after being dried down, windows cleaned with AG Fast glass, my quick detailer mix, AG tyre shine, AG wheel protector spray.
And when picking up pizza that evening.
Bit of a 3 way shot for instagram
Why we use the 3 bucket method!!
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Stutopia reacted to this -
Will be taking mine there next month for the 5th year service.
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Sparky, I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on this exhaust. Do a little review?
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Keeping it clean
in Cleaning & Detailing
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Spend a good long time on it this weekend.
As it was a barmy 10° I thought I'd slap a new coat of Fusso on, hated by some but I like the length of protection it gives and the water behaviour is incredible.
Also removed the rear plate to find the plate rattling around had caused a fair bit of damage. Quick wiz over with the DA and 3" backing plate got most of it off. Replaced with a square plate for that #jdm look....
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