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sam534

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Posts posted by sam534


  1. I would see if another red gt86 wants to swap boots with you. Lots of people want a plain boot to add their own spoiler on without having to fix the holes that are left behind by the standard spoiler. Changing boots is a very simple job of a matter of a few bolts on the hinges unplugging and chasing through the wiring for the number plate lights and changing number plates.

     

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  2. Just wanted to say thank you to you [mention=2794]sam534[/mention] for making this tutorial. I found it very helpful especially noting down the part numbers and identifying which wire did what in the dashboard tweeters. I’ve recently upgraded the speakers and treated the doors to some rust protection and sound deadening material. The sound quality is vastly improved and the door doesn’t rattle so much from the bass in the better speakers. Job well done.
    Glad it helped mate!

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  3. Yes I use 25mm spacers have done for say 30k miles had to replace my rear wheel bearings at 65k. Have they caused it, I would say no but they will have reduced the life for sure. Most wheel bearing need to be replaced around 100-120k miles but the variables such as road surface amount of high speed cornering/driving make it impossible to compare bearing life on different cars.

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  4. I was put off by wheel spacers, because of added weight, I don’t like looking through the spokes of the wheel and seeing the spacers. I use my car on track and would want one failing due to heat and expansion of different materials. 
    But mostly because I do a lot of work on my car self and you’d have to remove the spacer to get to the brakes. Plus you also need a friend to stand and the brake pedal to torque up the front wheel spacers because you can’t stop the hub from spinning if there’s no wheel attached. 
    Ignoring this hub centric spacers are perfectly safe but will put extra load on the hub bearings in the same way that high offset wheels will do, but we’re talking several thousand miles and not five minutes. 
    Just a note Luke I use a screwdriver through the disc vanes wedged against the calliper to torque the front spacer nuts.

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  5. Hi all.
    I have wanted to modify my GT86 since the day I bought it.  My plan was to buy these mods - 
    Valenti Revo Rear Lights
    Vland Front Lights
    Invidia N1 Cat Back Exhaust
    Tein Flex Z Coilovers or Lowering Springs
    New Alloys and Tyres
    As well as the above I was going to get a few other bits but the above is the bulk of what I wanted to do.  
     
    Now after some research on prices I have found that if you buy direct from the US and include postage you save a ton of money.  I am not sure if all these items will be subject to import tax and VAT but in some cases you are still better off buying from the US.  Has anyone else here purchased their mods outside of the UK and if you have how did you find the process? Did you get stung by customs or where you one of the lucky ones who’s items slipped through?
    I guess I am a little shocked at the price difference.  Can’t believe how much we get shafted in the UK. Actually surprised anyone can actually afford to mod their cars!
    I've always been stung at customs from the half a dozen things I have bought. If your buying from US expect to get taxes and customs charges every time. If you don't get pinged then your very lucky.

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  6. I must admit my experience of most aftermarket coilovers especially with solid topmounts is that they are noisy. I get the odd knocking with my tein Flex As at low speeds on minor bumps but I put that down to them being the cheaper end of coilovers.

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  7. That sounds so .. horribly simplistic & basic!
    Probably more reliable than the electronic type ... on my old Alfa the wires to the pad sensors fell out after a couple of months! They weren't cheap pads either (they were a good brand as when I use the brakes I want to stop!) I super-glued them back in the holes in the pads to stop them flopping around but doubt they would work. I just had to check them more often visually.
    Simple works

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  8. Project Mu do seem to get good reviews. Have all those above who are running non stock pads also gone in for uprated brake fluid? And braided lines for good measure? Or are a set of decent pads and a well maintained brake system all that's needed unless going all the way with a BBK? 
    Luke, hope you don't mind me jumping in on your thread. I thought it would be useful to hear what people also think about fluid and hoses as well.....and, because like you, I'm at thst stage of needing to replace pads and thinking an upgrade is in order
    I use rbf600 as its simple and easy and to have the piece of mind that your fluid won't boil on track is worth the couple of extra quid cost on fluid and to do a yearly change.

    I haven't don't lines yet.

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  9. Check disks if you feel judder. I had a slight lip on my, giving judder only when braking at speed over 80 mph (Paddock Hill at Brands was very challenging due to vibration).

    My experience with pads so far (Ksports BBK fronts, stock rear)
    - ECB Yellowstuff were absolutely fine, good combination for daily and occasional track day. Not too much dust, no noise. Dont last though, particularly after going FI.
    - DS2500 front, ECB Yellowstuff rear - ok, but much better with ECB Bluestuff rear. Good life (fronts after 5 track days were just over 1/2 worn, rears lasted over 2 yrs, probably 15+ track days would have lasted couple more). Lots more dust, occasional sqeel but not too bad.

    I have tried ECB Bluestuff on front and rear, but fronts crumbled on edges and I got a lip on the disk, hence had to change them.

    After putting BBK on rear as well (DS2500 front and rear) brakes still feel weird with ABS engaging way too early (better in track mode, but Bedford was not to try it out tbf). Need another track day to get used to them.

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    BBK will be vastly different to stock brake. Pads won't reach the temperature you get on stock pads as fast due to more metal absorbing the heat.

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  10. Hello mate I use ebc yellow stuff on the rear with pfc z front. In no way are these track pads but will survive on track longer than OEM. I have no issue with noise daily driving.

    The pfc z pads do get spongy after 15 mins on track I tend to push another lap then come in. But also note I'm a rookie track day driver.

    The answer that is obvious is that there isn't a pad that does both well. Best idea is to run two sets of pads.

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  11. Just so you know the BRZ headlight are different to the 86 as you say but the 86 have the DRL in them and the indicator on the bumper. The brz are the other way around. Personally I prefer the 86 headlight. I am unsure whether you can mix and match the wiring may be different.

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  12. I quite like the small ducktail bootlid and the 2.4l engine should lend itself to even better power upgrades and boost. It looks good in silver, less good in Subaru blue.
    It's no biggie over ours but let's respect the fact that it keeps the concept going where we thought the model might be dead. With the latest government announcement about battery cars we have one more decade to buy this sort of car. Enjoy it while it lasts!

    It’s even higher compression at 13.5:1 it will like boost less than our current cars


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  13. Fitting the cossie baffle plate isn't that high really. From what I can remember, a large chunk (almost half?) is down to the sealant being expensive - then a couple hours of labour for removal, putting the plate in and applying the sealant. Car then stays overnight for it to cure but obviously you're not paying for that time. I had other things done at the time but I'm sure it was around a similar price you've been quoted.

    The sealant is about £4 worth. Had my baffle plate fitted by rogue Motorsport on the weekend. I would say that cost for the baffle plate is reasonable. It will take them probably a lot more time than that if they show due care and attention, cleaning up the sump and block could take a while.

     

    However the manifold has to be taken off and put on with the recall. I think RRG actually left my manifold attached with the front pipe and just detached it from the block. I think that's a stupid cost anything more than 100 quid would be ridiculous.

     

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  14. Sam534, Did you have any issues with the iso harness not clipping into the OEM stereo securely? Im having an issue with the smaller of the 2 connectors making a secure connection and staying clipped in??
    I must admit I have had some crackling in the rear right speaker I've yet to diagnose, it may be related to that. But I didn't have an issue when I fitted it.

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