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Posts posted by br0wny
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looks good but...
no decon stages? and why wash with gyeon bathe+ then use a wax with carnauba in? would have been better to use gyeon cancoat after the bathe+ and skip out the glaze -
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ahhh bugger the image links didnt work BRING BACK PHOTOBUCKET
what do people use these days? -
Had my 86 18 months now and for some reason havent created a build thread so whilst bored at work thought id give it a whirl...
I got my 86 in august 17 with 14k miles on and was completely standard a la...
absolutely loved the car but who likes a standard car? not me so things began to change...
first off was a TD none res catback whilst it was in for full service which was closely followed by some new wheels to be gone with them horrendous stock items... what were toyota thinking when they designed them
to many peoples dismay i went for rota titans as well, i like the look and couldnt be bothered waiting for tc105n or paying the price haha! i got them wrapped in ad08r tyres 😃
now i had the things going with the looks it was deffo time for some coilovers so i went for some BC BR again supplied by TD... actually really surprised when in full comfort they ride comfier than stock but i have them set 12 clicks from soft at the front and 14 clicks from soft at the rear and no surprises the car looks better lowered... a full alignment followed a few weeks after fitting
i had a trackday at angelsey booked so decided to upgrade the brake pads to some PFC Z rated pads after reading good reviews on here about them however i think i broke them when bedding in so not sure i got the full effect on track but they alas they worked well enough thanks to a cold day with lots of rain in the afternoon but we shall move on quickly from that brake pad situation i still had a great time and anglesey is an amazing track
next up was to do something with the stock speakers as lets face it theyre shocking... even moreso when my previous bmw had the harmon kardon upgrade... i decided on the plug and play focals along with some sound deadening for the doors, rear quarters, under the rear seats and bits under on the boot floor - alas some decent (enough) sounding music whilst driving my fave ever car!
the most recent thing is that the car has had some new brakes thanks to my mate giving me his wrx 4 pots and the car has had the TD NA package which i can only describe as wizardry as to how much of a different it makes to the car 😍 much more driveable, much more fun, much more (a bit too much tbh) noise
and that brings it pretty much up to datesome of you may have seen ive had a few hiccups recently with sensor codes and odd symptoms but the car seems to be running perfect again and i would imagine the majority of symptoms were caused by placebo of seeing something wrong hahah! at least thats what solution i came up with after speaking to TD
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quick update -
Done over 100 miles over past few days and car seems back to normal fingers crossed it stays that way now 😻 -
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1 hour ago, Lauren said:I think you are going to have to wait for an EML before you can take it in again. The down pipe which comes up from the collector to the manifold is nowhere near the cam sensors. Plus it's wrapped. Can't see that being an issue.
this seems to be consensus going forward
The wife was going to use the car for work but she hates driving it and I would like to keep my clutch intact 😂 shes never once had issues with clutches but the 86 is a bastard at the best of times hahaon a plus side the car is covered by toyota warranty worldwide so if it did happen whilst abroad i could get recovered to a local toyota garage and they could contact my local dealership for info spozedly 🤗
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1 hour ago, nerdstrike said:This one sounds like exhaust restriction, or maybe a stuck brake. Did you TD exhaust change subsequently include a decat?
A pending code is waiting for a repeat to log it as a permanent error. Otherwise it can self-clear, and leave you with no justification for further investigation.
Your road trip will be utterly miserable if the car is acting up, but it's also intermittent so you're going to struggle to prove it's fixed. I think @vanko25 makes a good point. The long tube headers come up in front of the pulleys, so not very far from the sensors. You could temporarily lag them with a heat shield without huge difficulty.
P000A means intake, i.e. the upper cams, and I think it would be one on the side without the oil filter, but maybe someone else can confirm? I mean near the dipstick in this picture:
You could try re-seating the connectors for the sensor, and perhaps having a spare sensor in the car in case it gives up entirely and you need to get it fixed, but that's a desperate measure. Much more likely an engine out job to get into the heads.
Do you have a healthy battery? Voltage issues can cause all kinds of gremlins.
Is the oil the Toyota recommended stuff, or something else?
At this stage you're weighing up cost of various approaches versus the cost of hiring a car for the road-trip, and waiting for a more precise diagnostic. It's £££ all the way
thanks for taking the time to reply, the NA package includes a catless manifold but its also wrapped in titanium heat wrap so should be ok and nobody else has encountered this problem which when the EML was on was before the changed were made.
I think the sensor for the intake is at the rear but may be wrong i could always try reseating the OCV sensor as thats easy to get to.
the battery is spot on no issues there and the oil TD use is proper toyota 0w20
Im going to book it in to have exhaust checked for any leaks/blocked 2nd cat as there is some kind of exhaust rattle under heavy load...just to note, the issue is covered under warranty so as yet has cost me £0
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3 hours ago, Ade said:It sounds like your cam is getting stuck or there is a problem with the sensor.
Have you got an oil pressure gauge? The cams are controlled by oil pressure and an actuator that can fail.
I was hoping as a repeat visit they would at least change the OCV this time but nope as no hard stored code :( the OCV is something you can do on the drive so contemplating buying one to change it for the sake of £70 for the OCV
Toyota quoted about £250 for new OCV, cam sensor and labour... but said they wouldnt want me paying for something that would be covered under warranty if they had a code to work from :( -
The symptoms also point to a possibly clogged/damaged cat maybe? But again Toyota don't seem to want to inspect anything until a code shows
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Hi all,
Back in January my car threw EML and slip light and when taken into Toyota Wakefield, came back with the 'P000A camshaft position sensor slow to respond' code.
They cleared the code and let the tech use the car for the week to see if it returned - it didn't - and was put down to a hiccup. I had a long discussion with various techs and managers regarding the potential dangers of further damage and they assured me not to worry - Ok on my way I go
The car ran absolutely fine until last wednesday where driving from Harrogate to Leeds it felt very subdued to a point it didn't actually accelerate on the motorway, had little to no throttle response, nearly stalled when idling and smelt very VERY hot when stationary. Also seemed much louder on WOT and didn't seem to get anywhere and there was vibration through the car when accelerating.
It was late so I put the car away to deal with another day.
On saturday I decided to take it for a spin and the symptoms were still there so I connected to my Carista obd2 dongle and got the same 'P000A camshaft position sensor slow to respond' but this time showing as pending rather than a stored code and had no EML. I put the car away.The Car has been in, and is still in, Toyota again however they claim they can't find the 'P000A camshaft position sensor slow to respond' code anywhere. I assume it hasn't faulted and the car has cleared the code itself??? They could however see the ABS codes from the car being on a rolling road 😇
Toyota Wakefield won't take my word or proof I got the code despite it being a 2nd occurrence as enough to start changing sensors/OCV etc as a safety buffer.
Midway through the whole ordeal the car had a FULL 4yr service and the TD NA package done by mike and the gang and the car was driving perfectly afterwards all until this strange scenario last wednesday night. Toyota Wakefield haven't said anything about mods causing issue/warranty void etc which is nice...
Just wondering where to go from here as I am due to set off on a 3 week/4000 mile road trip around europe in the car in 3 weeks time. Does anybody have any ideas or info that could help me get sorted?Cheers
Dan
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the boots on my stock brakes melted
ive just changed to wrx 4 pot calipers on the front with braided lines and pmu ns400 pads also fitted slotted discs
whilst actual braking "force" is a bit less, the caliper and pads/discs should handle heat better -
im quite worried now that my car going to become too loud next week 😟
this may not be good for my upcoming 4000 mile roadtrip in april 😳 -
im in for NA package next tuesday and going for their UEL, i also have their catback (bought none res but had a res put in a few week back)
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On 12/22/2018 at 12:30 PM, Lmc said:Treated the car to a couple of xmas pressies.
Got a beatsonic sharkfin aerial from Fensport which i must say was fantastic service, & finally got around to buying the focal is165toy speakers.
just fitted them both & at last i can listen to music without the crackling noise.
the focals get better and better the more theyre used too
also, how you finding the ebc discs and pads? -
12 minutes ago, Norman said:Last Friday, I had the opportunity to drive a 560bhp EVO 6 TM so would have been rude to refuse. The thing was just bonkers. Not a lot until about 4750 rpm then it just went nuts. Straight line power, whilst addictive, isn't everything. I wasn't disappointed driving my '86 home, however I WOULD like a little more in a straight line, but definitely not at the expense of drivability. I would love to have a drive of a forced induction '86 to sample the power delivery for myself.
very nice! the evo 6 will still be very raw too unlike the bmw which was very numb and quite boring. I have my 86 in for the TD N/A package in february which will hopefully just add that bit of extra fizz it needs but more importantly remove the torque dip, otherwise I don't really feel the need for Fi personally. 30mph in the 86 feels like 80mph in the bmw etc etc
Angelina reacted to this -
I came from a 4 second flat to 60, 420bhp/450lbft tuned bmw m135i and I much prefer the gt86. Need I say more?
Norman and Angelina reacted to this -
deffo one of the best builds on here!
scoobyworx and scoobyworld do brake caliper refurbs inc all new pistons/seals/bleeders etc etc for anyone thinking about it after seeing this post -
Im glad I've seen this thread as I couldn't get my head around the car seeming to not use any oil so happy days now
Dipstick is absolutely shite though and my m135i before didn't even have one -
I have new tpms on my new wheels, but havent had them coded to the car (annoying as i paid for new tpms haha)
I was just going to fit my stock wheels come MOT time...
HOWEVER!!!!
When parked in my garage the car used to pick up the tpms signals from my old wheels (stored at the back) but this stopped happening about a month ago and the light is now always on, and then flashes after about 10 mins of driving when it realises they're not there.
This could be down to a few reasons, either be because the oem wheels have lost pressure over the past 10 months maybe? or because the tpms no longer have any power? not sure how they are powered?
Any thoughts? MOT is due in January... -
when you say booked in by 31st january would that be booked in and paid but possibly booked for february/march? not wanting to get my service done until as close as possible to start of our road trip (4500 miles across europe) in april thats all and rather do it all in one trip across to yourselves? would it be possible to stretch to fitting a ksport front bbk at the same time too or would that be too much work in one day? 4yr service inludes brake fluid change too is all im thinking there
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had similar issues across all my cars, even ones ive had from brand new. i always thought it was just from using microfibres to clean the inside until i noticed its all on the outside for sure
pain the bottom thats for sure when its sunny! -
had mine in the back. seats down, front and rear wheels off and fits a treat
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sorry to resurrect the sound deadening Will, but, what about stuffing the white fluffy stuff in the front door cavities like you did on the rear quarters as well as the tiles and absorber foam? just wandering what your thoughts are as i've ordered the focals so just deciding where to go with the deadening as im probably only gonna do the front doors tbh (possibly rear quarters also)
Finally got around to first wax
in Cleaning & Detailing
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sorry for the late reply, not been on in a while
clay should get most off tbf, but always worth giving areas that get heavily soiled a bit of a spray with iron out/similar
glaze does help hide stuff but thats all it does which isnt ideal
bathe+ is shampoo+si02 so yeh essentially wash and wax but with si02 protection rather than wax so he's essentially protected the car then stripped the protection to put on a different type of product...