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Adi

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Posts posted by Adi


  1. Around 20 track days per year (2/month).

    Yes, Millers dot 4 300

    I have been told to brake later and harder, and I do tend to stay on the brakes a bit longer than my instructor likes it, so I see your point.

    Still, it feels like my brake pedal has 2 modes of operation.

    1) If I am light on them they don't fade. Ever.

    2) If I am hard on them, like when I do brake later and harder, there is the initial application (I can even stomp on them, they will be firm), and then they compress.

    I don't experience any 'fade' per se in braking power. It's just the pedal "compresses" - soft hydraulic feeling of lowering for about half an inch - after one or 2 seconds if I stand on it. Braking power still there.

     


  2. Was wondering if anyone experienced this. Mostly happens on track, I brake hard at the end of a straight before a hairpin (think hairpin at bedford at the end of the second straight, after the 1km straight - which is a very hard braking zone, from 100+mph to 35-ish, ), The brake pedal is quite firm for the first 1-2 seconds, but then the pedal goes down slowly, almost like the brakepads became wooly and compressed 50% or something loosing pressure somewhere.

    It does not go all the way to the floor, but significant enough to feel it softening.

    It does not seem to affect the braking itself, can still control the slow down, and then trail brake, and it is fine for the next corner.

    I also never felt unsafe, since the actual braking was not affected, but weird feeling to have the pedal go soft in the middle like that when held under pressure for a bit longer.

    Again this only happens when I'm really standing on the brakes, 100% pressure, after at least 1 or 2 seconds, not right away.

    I've got BBK in fornt (Stoptech) and stock calipers in the rear. Stainles lines in front. rubber ones in the rear.

    I had the pads changed not too long ago and brakes bled. Brake fluid is Millers racing fluid dot 4.

    Had this happen both with EBC Yellows and Stoptech Sport pads

    Any ideas ?

     

     

     

     

     


  3. @VAD17 Not just with FI, but even on NA, once your driving improves  same will happen.

    Once I started  instruction, I went through pads much faster. 3-4 track days on DS2500, EBC Yellows, Stoptech Sports. (I've got the Stoptech BBK  and Velox brake ducts but otherwise completely stock power). I will try Pagid RS29 next. They are supposed to last longer and still be very good.

    Or just drive slow :

    .


  4. You don't need rear BBK. Been doing 20 track days and about 15 Car Limits days last year, and the rears still had about 1/3 left.  I did get the StopTech uprated OEM disk replacements  and their Sport pads, but still much cheaper than BBK.

    Fensport race car (a real monster) has the same configuration for the rears. If they didn't bother with BBK in the back at 400+ hp, , 19" wheels, and big semi-slicks ... I have a hard time finding a good reason to do it.


  5. I'm coming up on my 20th day at CarLimits. It is brilliant, you will feel the limits and realize how little you know about driving :), but also have a blast, especially in  an 86/BRZ.  In a 4 people day, you get a lot of driving time and will be knackered by the end of the day. The hardest part is after the day is over and you go home and feel like everyone drives ridiculously slow.

    As Vad said, It is hard on the tyres, the surface is very abrasive, but you can manage. My last set of PS4s lasted 6 track days and 3 car limits days, and I did not go easy on them - to say the least. My Primacies did not do anywhere near as well.

    If you are lucky and get a wet day it is the best training ever for wet surfaces, plus you will be sidways a lot :). But don't worry you will be sideways on a normal day too. And backwards, and all possible angles.

     


  6. My first 86 was a 2014. Current one is a 2016 which I got for 15000, with 30k miles on board.

    I can tell there is a significant difference in handling. The car is more planted, steering is more precise. Much better with stock suspensions than the the previous one.

    Here is an article that I totally agree with in my recent experience: https://www.carsales.com.au/editorial/details/2015-toyota-86-sharper-stiffer-43065/

    And the relevant text:

    The Toyota 86’s chief engineer explained the changes to the car’s damping rates and rear suspension change the way the car interacts with the road, resulting in “even better steering stability and a more communicative handling. 
    “We decided to change the way how suspension parts - including the rear shock absorbers - are attached to the chassis. This increases body rigidity, hence adds to better handling stability and response,” said Tada.

    “Shock absorbers were also retuned. We used a new technology for stabilising damping force, and we improved friction control and responsiveness,” he added.

    The car now gives the driver “that extra bit of control, especially when the car is driven on the limit,” said Tada, who also confirmed a handful of “subtle” cosmetic changes will distinguish the 2015 models from their progenitors.

  7. 1 hour ago, gavin_t said:

    Wondering if to give one more combo of pads and discs a go with some extra cooling or just jump straight in with a fresh setup. 

    It's mainly the feel that I am not keen on for track use. Kind of feels like it won't give the same stopping power every time. Therefore not giving me confidence to be a late on committed on the brakes as I could be.

    Before BBK I did a lot of track days on Stoptech OEM repacement disks https://www.tarmacsportz.co.uk/brakes/brake-discs/stoptech-toyota-gt86-subaru-brz-13-14-front-and-rear-slotted-street-kit.html

    With a good pad they felt almost as good as my BBK. Same stopping power, a bit less modulation. But much cheaper. Disks lasted me about 20 track days. They do heat up, and I had to change pads every 3-4 track days, but it was serious abuse. If you keep it keep it to 15-20 min sessions they will last quite a bit longer.

    Still get the MC brake stopper, it will change the feel a lot, even on OEM.


  8. I agree with what others said. Don't get cheapo BBK. Even expensive ones are not guaranteed to be flawless.

    I have and I am very happy with these (Stoptech BBK):

    http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/stoptech-328x28-big-brake-kit-f.html

    get extra 3% discount using code: ft86club

    Pads and ss lines are included, so you end up about the same price as Reyland for just the calipers and disks.

    Super silent, like stock on the road, though you need to be careful when you brake in the beginning so you don't go through the windshield. :) Very good and consistent on track. Had to half my braking distance compared to stock. I know, pretty ridiculous, it took me a few laps braking later and later, to believe what was going on and to trust it.

    I also got a Master Cylinder Stopper that seems to make a huge difference for me. The firewall was flexing a lot. Now it feels solid, I can modulate the brakes much better, but the biggest difference was in how much easier the heel-and-toe felt after installing the stopper. Highly recommended for any kind of brakes: https://www.fensport.co.uk/parts/subaru/brz/zc6/braking/gt86-beatrush-brake-master-cylinder-brace/

    Never tried the Reyland kit but had issues with the AP Essex Kit in my previous gt86 - overheating and warping which is unusual for AP, and all pad brands were squealing like hell on the road.

    There is also  the Verus/Velox  brake duct kit. http://www.ft86speedfactory.com/velox-performance-brake-cooling-kit-ducts-2013-ft86.html. Takes a long time to install (5-6 hours labor), you need to remove or replace your washer fluid bottle with a smaller one (like in the turbo kits), and  the tyres will rub on the ducts unless you install wheel spacers or steering rack limiters. You also loose your fog lights.

    Had no issues after a good day at Donington in December, in the dry and 14'C weather. I was more worried about engine temperatures. The brakes seem they could take much more than the 25-30 min sessions I was doing.

     


  9. For sale. Lighter items can ship (s+h not included in price). Heavy items collection only,  Barnet, Hertfrodshire. All in good condition.

    OEM fog lights (L+R) - £80

    OEM steering wheel (2012-2016) - £80

    OEM side mirror glass (no external casing) L and R, heated,  £20 each, £35 for both.

    OEM, 30k miles -   Suspension: shocks & springs, front and rear:   £80

    OEM, 30k miles -   Front top mounts L+R : £20

    OEM, 30k miles -   Rear anti-roll bar: £35  and Drop Links (£15)

    OEM, 30k miles -   Rear LCA (lower control arms) : £20

    OEM, 30k miles -   Front brake calipers L+R: £65

    BBK brake pads: this spec: https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/brake-pads-to-suit-ap-racing-cp8350-4-piston-caliper-wilwood-superlite-440668/

       - New: Ferodo DS 3000 (FRP501R) for AP Essex Sprint Kit or Wilwood Superlite: £90

       - New: EBC Yellowstuff (EBCDP4037/2R) for AP Essex Sprint Kit or Wilwood Superlite: £60

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