Rich196
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Content Count
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Joined
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Last visited
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Days Won
7
Posts posted by Rich196
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3 hours ago, thetyrant said:SOLD... and 800miles later delivered to new owner, that was one seriously long road trip! but prefer to endure that and know everything gets there in condition its meant to
IanThank you so much Ian, I think your crazy but I do appreciate all your time. Intercooler is in place already, and some other bits stripped.
thetyrant and Ade reacted to this -
Never had a "problem" with flux but they dont give you the most confident of feels. I am with paceward and they are great!
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1 hour ago, Nemo said:Currently rear set belt points. Not comfortable with the angle they sit at as below recommended angle, so looking at options to change the angle they sit at (harness bar etc).
Sent from my E6853 using Tapatalk
Yeh thats really bad, especially without fixed back seats. Go for the schroth Rallye 3 harness. The rears straps mount to the top mounting for the rear seat belt on the "c" pillar. They are what I run on track days.
Rich reacted to this -
where do the harness mount behind the seat?
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Just now, Lucas@PartBox said:No, sorry. We don't do part-ex
Looks like I might have to trying the credit rating tactic!
Lucas reacted to this -
Just now, Lucas@PartBox said:No, but we take credit cards! Think of it this way.. You have a maaaad super-charged 86 AND you're building your credit rating!
Take sprintex chargers as part ex?
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34 minutes ago, MikeB said:I am just having my fluid changed with mot and service next month. I use Castrol SRF as it has the highest wet boiling point of 270 degrees C, dry is 310 degrees C. Recommend change fluid every 18/24 months.
Its expensive but worth it and have not had any brake fade with braided hoses and Ferodo 2500 pads all round.
This is the best but silly money. RBF600 in mine and no issues at all.
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4 minutes ago, Lucas@PartBox said:Have you got enough clearance to say it'd fit 7" wheels with ET42?
I wouldn't want to put money on it, but I could fit my finger between the back of the spoke and the calliper, and between the calliper and inside of rim. For technical reference my finger is 15-18mm diameter. All the pictures of the brake fitment and wheels are on my photobucket, here is a link as I cannot share photobucket images directly onto the forum anymore.
Lucas reacted to this -
1 hour ago, alucardo said:Tempted by these if they clear 4-piston AP Racing CP9200 calipers....
For reference my Rota boost: 17x7.5 et48 fit over Cp9200 Callipers.
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Probably a couple of thousand. The disc are shot so it doesn't matter if you run them down to the backing plates. Wont stop very well if you do then.
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Its just annoying that some cars were made with the cheap stuff. I have been looking to replacing the various parts to put it back to the cheap gas, but the toyota parts list system is awful, and a lot of the dealers dont know that cars between 2014 and 2015 ran the cheap stuff.
It looks to me you to swap it out you need 3 bits of aluminium piping at £60 a pop and maybe a new aircon compressor at around £500. Although my car has a sticker on the aircon pump that lists both gasses.
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5 minutes ago, KevinA said:RRG MACCLESFIELD £100
That for the expensive gas?
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Brakes
in Mechanical
5 hours ago, Rich said:Do you have front and back, or just front? BBK is potentially something I'll do before too long.
Just the front!
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Brakes
in Mechanical
Go for the rayland kit that myself and @will300 has. I will let you know what they are like on track at the end of the month! Its a good price option, but you will need spacers for a sock wheel at a guess!
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So process of elimination.
Your tyres are good.
Your alignment is good.
All these elements are measured static....
The only static thing that hasn't been "checked" is that the brakes aren't dragging. (I doubt that its this though) Does it do with if you brake firmly in either direction?
My personal train of though would be to check in order of simplicity:
Does the traction control have any effect on this when turned completely off? You can try a "pedal dance" to completely turn it off. Google it.
Subframe mounting, firstly are they tight? secondly are the bushes all in order. Is this causing the subframe to move under the car this would cause the symptoms you describe.
If all this is "good" I would be looking at the diff and the drive shafts.
Is the diff working correctly and within tolerance from left to right wheel. Is there any more backlash in one wheel then the other?
Are all the wheel bearings okay?
Good luck!
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http://www.costco.co.uk/view/p/arcan-2000kg-aluminiumsteel-service-jack-model-hj2000eu-900930
This is the one I have. Good bit of kit. Gets under my 86 easily and lifts it nice and high.
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I think it is priced fairly considering snd obviously you will be in so rush to sell.
Enjoy your M car as if you like you 86 they are they only thing that will match it for fun.
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1 hour ago, dom2497 said:About 10 clicks on the rear 6 on the front I think (from soft). There is 30 clicks in total.
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Do you change this for track work?
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1 hour ago, dom2497 said:Really like them, they did well on track as well. I don't find them crashy on the road either, bear in mind everything is poly bushed
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Any idea how you have the damping set for road use?
Getting the quotes in. Recommendations welcomed.
in GT86/BRZ General Chat
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Paceward are good.