Rich196

Any idea how you have the damping set for road use?

also a install manual here: https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=2&sqi=2&ved=0ahUKEwiy6J2UwJrUAhVEAcAKHQ7DAS4QFggyMAE&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ft86club.com%2Fforums%2Fattachment.php%3Fattachmentid%3D123913%26d%3D1446144364&usg=AFQjCNHyaXknTcGWxcOQOYIIe1Vxw6CHtg&sig2=8cHVw5Ot8SSni8FeO3tbMg&cad=rja

I guess basic things to check from a look under the bonnet is: Is the belt that drives the super charger spinning? Does traction fluid reservoir have fluid in it?

A decent Geo and corner weight setup will make a bigger difference.

Funny you should mention this. I did mine last weekend it was awful!! Use this thread to get the door card off: http://www.ft86club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12520 The look at this picture and remove these screws: The you can have the whole switch unit out. You will notice the switches are a loose rattly fit. I removed mine using small blade screw drivers from the housing. Built up some layers or insulation tape to make them a tight fit!

No I haven't i think you need to leave the screen unlocked though.

Easy or as complex as you like. I use the Rookie version. For me this is the way I use it: Set it up, by defining the user: enter name and car. Load the track. This is done by a simple search. Press drive. This will now take you the timing screen. At the top it will tell you the status. You want it to tell you its ready. This means it has a good GPS lock. Once it is ready put it in a phone cradle or door pocket out of sight. I put it in the door pocket. Then I forget about it. Don't want to chase lap times and a gravel trap. During the day or after go to the menu and select analysis or lap list. You can then review you lap times and data from through out the day. You can get really complicated with logging data from a OBD dongle and over laying video but I dont bother.

Oh Ian do I need to take it out and blow the cobwebs off for you?

Hayward and Scott non resonated centre section. Removed from the car, so I could get on quiet track days. Good condition. £100 Located in Hailsham or Henfield.

@KobayashiMaru I echo what @knightryder has said. My 135i E82 coupe was an epic monster. Being lightly breathed on it was 420hp and 500+ llbft. This is in the territory of keeping up with GTR's and F430s. Mine had a lot of work done on the chassis side which made it and epic road car and a fairly good track car! The guy who sold it to me changed to a M135i hatch as soon as they came out as he had kids. We have had them both out on track at the same time. He was on adaptive suspension and his car out the box matched my older car with all the work done. The chassis tech moves on a hell of a lot. The two big problems with the 135i on track is, keeping temps under control when your mapped. Stock seems to be fine. The second is steering from the rear by throttle, the car has a staggered setup, 225 front 255 rear, and an open diff. This just leads to push understeer. I would have the M performace LSD in it if I got one, and maybe a square setup. However my 135i being my weekend car, wasn't special enough for me, my charged 86 puts a bigger smile on my face and feels more special. It is more of a drivers car than the BMW as you really need to drive it to get the best out of it, and its light and responsive. If am honest, I would have a M135i, M235i over the 86 for a daily, but as a second toy the 86 wins.

Very sure!! This was big thing on the E8X 1 series, E9X 3 series and probably most BMW's of that generation so 2006 onwards? You did not even need to damage the car gain access. If you could turn the key lock in the drivers door backwards the windows will drop. This allows you to plug into the OBD port, get into the car without activating the alarm and start the engine without the keys. I always used to wake up and look out the window grateful that my 135I will still outside. BMW issued a security update that stopped the windows dropping if you turned the key backwards in the lock. However put no security on the OBD port so the car could still be started with a laptop.

Agree'd I feel the 86 is hard on the road full stop. I think I might have found the limit of them at Rockingham. I feel like I was on the bump stops at the rear on one corner. Please share how you stopped the parcel shelf rattling like crazy!

Love it! Sponsored by HKS how do you find the coilovers for track use?

I fitted this as a mod in isolation. I fitted the GT3 ducts and remove the disc backing plate. Same pads and discs, and it made a noticeable improvement to me!

In order of ownership 106, 1.2 206, 1.6 Mazda 3, 2.0 sport Audi TT 225. Got into track days chassis limited BMW 135i 420ph beast, wanted to do more track days need a cheaper car to run MX5 NC, did loads of track days, realised it required to much time off work, and I didn't love the mx5 for anything other than a track work horse Charged 86, best of all worlds, light, responsive, love it, acceptable for road use, great on track days

Yeh its all in the prep with a ceramic coating Rob probably can tell you more than me, as I think from memory he is a gtechniq fan boy. I know it wont bond properly without panel wipe. Id go from Fk1000p it pretty utilitarian will last forever, and is easy to work with. Id apply is once a quarter. Pitting in this photo here looks like something causing damage to the polished surface.

@Ade What rob has said, the best thing to use is a fall out remover. I have only ever used Ironx. These tend to go purple and bleed when its working. Best not to let it dry, but you can use as many hits as you like until you stop seeing the purple. Anything left can be removed by clay baring. I use bilt hamber clay as you can use water as lube. Best thing you can do for yourself one properly clean is seal the wheels up. The best sealant is a ceramic coating, while very easy to apply wipe on wipe off. They need a lot of prep work to bond properly and get the best out of them. Prep Along the lines off decontaminate (ironx) Clay bar, polish, pannel wipe then use cermic coating like gtechniq. Or my other go to would be FK1000P a high temp hybrid, that you apply like wax, this is less fussy about prep you could stop after using ironx but ultimate wont protect for as long. If you get the sealant right you should barely have to touch them to clean them if done regularly mine come up well just with the pressure washer alone. Here is an example of the daily. You can see the state of it. One section has only been touched by the pressure washer. I hate to say this, on the polished parts of you wheel it already looks like pitting has started.

put in the lock stops and enjoy it!!

All I can say is £500 for a cooler setup or 5k for an engine, choices.

Is that 4-2-1 too or 4-1? If so why are you on this instead the H&S

does that not have some form of charge tucked in there?

@tegunulgener What are you running now?

aren't you meant to be selling not buying?